test-drb February 2011

test-drb@ccmp.vtda.org

155 participants
210 discussions

FREE in Minneapolis: RL02 drive for repair or parts

by bub7734＠yahoo.com

I've an RL02 drive that I need to dispose of. It mostly works, but has occasional read errors--possibly dirty heads or adjustments are needed. It is missing the two cable connectors on the back (I needed those), and the rack rails (never had those). The drive is free to anyone for pick-up in Minneapolis. And while on the RL02 subject, I'm looking for two cabinet kits for RL02 controllers. e.g. CK-RLV12 type bulkhead connectors. Does anyone have these for sale or trade? Cheers, -scott

13 years, 2 months

Tandem clx cyclone -r Seattle area

by g-wright＠att.net

Any interest in this before it gets scrapped. Missing the drives and Drive holders. rest looks Good. Full Model number T-16 7168 Name CLX cyclone-R vintage 1991 or so - Jerry

13 years, 2 months

OT: american vs european 220 (Tony Duell)

by jonas＠otter.se

> > It's in the second version of the book that I have. The book also > includes the 5-10, 5-20, 3-3, several preamplifers and tape > recording/playback amplifiers. It doesn't include an FM tuner design. The > older book ('High Quality Sound Reproduction') includes the 5-10, 5-20, > their preamps and an FM tuner. The latter was removed from the later book > because apparently few home constructors could align it properly. > > -tony > That's the one I have. Published 1959. Seven-watt DC/AC Amplifier, pages 59-66, UF86, 2xUCL82, UY85. I had no idea there was another version with an FM tuner in. I wonder how I could get hold of one? Jonas

13 years, 2 months

CP/M based Digitech network analyzer available

by allanh-cctalk2＠kallisti.com

Jason T wrote: > While I am by no means Mr. CP/M, I have never seen a CP/M machine with > a 3.5" floppy before. > > Who can name any others? BNW System 1. Okay, there was only one of those so it's not surprising you haven't seen one. It was dual processor, Z80 and 68000; it ran CP/M 3 on the Z80 and both CP/M and UCSD p-system on the 68K. It used the high RPM Sony 3.5" drives (600RPM?); those used the same data rate as a standard 8" floppy, so the controller could run both 8" and 3.5" without having to switch any clocking. allan -- Allan N. Hessenflow allanh at kallisti.com

13 years, 2 months

trs 80 model I "i/o bus interface adapter"

by billdeg＠degnanco.com

Does anyone have a TRS 80 Model 1 with Expansion Interface and external hard drive? According to a 3rd party hard drive manufacturer (VRDATA Hard Disk III) there is a small device called the trs 80 model I "i/o bus interface adapter" that goes between the EI and the hard drive. Any clues about this? Bill

13 years, 2 months

HP 7240A plotter paper substitute?

by derschjo＠mail.msu.edu

I seem to have a plotter-based theme going here today... Snagged an HP 7240A (this is the RS-232 version of the 7245A) plotter today, it's in working condition. A really cool design -- a combination plotter/printer using a thermal print head. My understanding is that the special tractor-feed thermal paper for this thing is basically impossible to find. Anyone out there found a reasonable substitute? Mine came with maybe 1/4 of a roll left in it, and I guess after that's gone I'll probably never get to use it again :). Thanks, Josh

13 years, 2 months

OT: american vs european 220 (Tony Duell)

by jonas＠otter.se

> >That might explain the 'optional' conactor and multi-phase wiring on our >wanhing machine wiring diagram. Did I metion it's a Swedish machine... > If it's a Cylinda, it might actually be made in Sweden. If it's an Electrolux, it could be made just about anywhere. Electrolux own 50 brands or thereabouts, and I believe they make appliances in several countries in Eastern Europe as well as in Italy (Zanussi is Electrolux since ages, as well as the AEG appliances division). On the subject of power sockets in bathrooms, in Sweden sockets may be fitted in bathrooms provided they are either earthed and protected by a Ground Fault Interrupter (there is probably a requirement that the GFI be located outside the bathroom), or have an isolating step-down transfomer internally, 220/110 and about 20 VA or so. Houses built after 1994 may not have non-earthed sockets anywhere. My bathroom has a small laundry section which I am intending to use as a darkroom. My flat is from 1963 so there is no socket in there, I have bought a portable GFI and intend to run an earthed extension lead from the kitchen via the GFI into the bathroom whenever I want to use it as a darkroom. Probably illegal but it should protect me (I hope...). Jonas

13 years, 2 months

OT: american vs european 220 (Tony Duell)

by jonas＠otter.se

> No, it;s an Asko, from the time before they were taken over. > That would be Finnish then IIRC. Cylinda is Asko Cylinda since a number of years. We used to pass the Cylinda factory every time we went to see my ex-parents-in-law. It's in a little village called Jung, in the South-west of Sweden. Cylinda used to be known for being particularly high quality since the washer drums were made of stainless steel where everyone else used mild steel. Asko Cylinda was bought by Gorenje of Slovenia last year. > > On the subject of power sockets in bathrooms, in Sweden sockets may be > > fitted in bathrooms provided they are either earthed and protected by a > > Ground Fault Interrupter (there is probably a requirement that the GFI > > be located outside the bathroom), or have an isolating step-down > > transfomer internally, 220/110 and about 20 VA or so. Houses built after > > The latter sounds like hte 'shaver sockets' we get in the UK. As I > mentioned, I bought a few in a pound shop and extractd the transformers > form them -- 110-0-110V at 20VA will power some small valve projects and > I've yet to find any other new HT transformers for a pound each :-) > They are meant for shavers and usually marked as such. The advantage of having earthed sockets nowadays is of course that you can run hair dryers in the bathroom (or even use the bathroom as a darkroom, which is presumably not what those who wrote the rules had in mind). > > 1994 may not have non-earthed sockets anywhere. > > I have no idea what the regualtions ontaht are over here. Virtually every > new installation (since about 1948) uses the 'ring main' with 3 pin > (earthed) sockets and plugs with intenral cartridge fuses. > > I think the only non-earthed sockets you would find now are isolated > shaver sockets. > I have always thought that the UK system was much more sensible. Not only are all plugs and sockets earthed, fused and switched, but they are also polarised so it is impossible to switch live and neutral (provided the electrician who installed them knew what he was doing). The Swedish plugs sockets are the same as the German ones, which are symmetrical and neither switched nor fused. > > > > My bathroom has a small laundry section which I am intending to use as a > > darkroom. My flat is from 1963 so there is no socket in there, I have > > bought a portable GFI and intend to run an earthed extension lead from > > the kitchen via the GFI into the bathroom whenever I want to use it as a > > darkroom. Probably illegal but it should protect me (I hope...). > > I would have to check the rgualtions, but in a darkroom you are working > in poor light with electricla stuff and water. No way would I want to do > without n RCD. > Precisely why i bought the RCD/GFI. I know for a fact I am going to die but I don't intend to bring it about by electrocution in the bathroom. And of course the RCD goes on the end of the lead outside the bathroom. I would want one even in a dedicated darkroom. Jonas

13 years, 2 months

OT: american vs european 220

by CCTECH＠beyondthepale.ie

> >> On electronic (i.e. personal computer) gear, I wonder if the role of >> the ever-present ground wire isn't more for RF noise than actual >> safety protection. > >Possibly. Althoguh a lot of computer equipment is metal-cased and >certainly wouldn't meet the requirements for double insulation. One >consern would be the mains filter. With no ground wire the casing would >flaot at half mains voltage due to a capacitive voltage divider formed >from the capacitors from the power-carrying wires to the case. Yes, the >source impedance would be quite high, but enough to give you a tingle. >Worse than that, if you connect the machine ta an earthed device and if >the logic ground wire is defective you are most likely to end up zapping >driver and receiver ICs. This was, I am told, a problem with some Acorn >Econet installations... > It's happened to me :-( I have a Vaxstation 3100 which was equipped with an SPX graphics adapter which was plugged into a very nice VR297 monitor (Sony Trinitron). I plugged out the monitor cable from the back of the Vaxstation for some reason. When I plugged it back in I felt a zap. On investigating, the earth pin in the IEC plug going into the monitor didn't seem to be making proper contact for some reason. The monitor didn't mind a bit but one of the primary colour outputs from the SPX adapter went away (red I think). I traced the connections on the graphics card and found the RGB outputs came directly out of a large, probably expensive, difficult to replace and rare looking BT459 RAMDAC :-( That was the only serious problem I ever had with them but I never liked IEC plugs and sockets much. Even when they are correctly mated, they often seem loose. I suppose on the plus side, they are more likely to pull free than cause damage when I trip over a mains lead... Regards, Peter Coghlan.

13 years, 2 months

VT330 Flyback Transformer Repair - advice please

by mark＠wickensonline.co.uk

Hi guys, I've received a replacement flyback transformer for the VT330. I'd like some advice about what other components it would be worth replacing at the same time. The transformer suffered from arcing but there doesn't appear to be any physical damage to any other components. I've got a replacement output transistor on the list, could anyone advise as to what else would be worth replacing - I'd like to get the terminal back to working condition with the best chance of a few years more use? My gut feeling is to also look at diodes and high voltage capacitors on the output side of the transformer, as well as the two large electrolytics on the input side of the power supply. I'm presuming that resistors don't normally need replacing. I have to weigh up the benefit of replacing components with the possibility that I don't get an exact replacement and balls something up. There are several high voltage (1000V+) capacitors are polypropylene. Do these typically stay stable over time? I have a circuit diagram and could put together an exact schematic if that is useful in helping. Thanks for the advice, Mark.

13 years, 2 months

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test-drb February 2011