Hi,
Okay, found a treasure trove of files buried deep on Apple's website:
http://download.info.apple.com/Apple_Support_Area/Apple_Software_Updates/En…
Found Diskcopy 4.2 from 1991... I installed it, it took 3 passes to
read in the Corvus User Disk, but finally I got a good copy and then put
in a fresh diskette, make the copy and it promptly mounting on the Mac
desktop and I was able to open it and all of the files were right there,
so that worked like a charm.
So to review:
Powermac 5260/100
Mac OS 7.5.3
Diskcopy 4.2
This all worked well in finally reading the older 84-85 Mac MFS diskettes...
So I just updated the Macintosh Archive section with the added Mac User
Client for Corvus Omninet networks (this will not work with Appletalk or
Ethernet, you need a special Corvus Interface Adapter that plugs into
the Localtalk Port and then to Corvus Omninet cabling...)
http://www.corvusmuseum.com/software/mac/
Curt
This is an 8-pen 8.5"x11" autofeed plotter with Serial and HP-IB
interfaces. It's in good shape, and seems to be almost working, but
something's gone awry with the autofeed mechanism -- it's not picking up
paper from the tray. Some of the pens still have wet ink in them :).
A friend of mine was tossing this out and I couldn't let that happen,
but since I already *have* a working 7550A I probably don't need
another. Anyone interested?
This is in Seattle, drop me a line...
- Josh
> So I'm *almost* sure that you can run one without the OCP. Mind you, it
> might have been an RA71 or RA72 rather than an RA70.
>
> Right now I cannot put my finger on a suitable manual ...
>
> There are, I'm sure, some jumpers or switches that set the unit number.
There is a DIP switch on the back next to the Fault and Ready LEDs
that is labeled Unit Number Select. Next to the DIP switch is a
pushbutton labeled Unit Number Accept. I have all of the DIP switches
off, I suspect for Unit Number 0. I tried pushing the Unit Number
Select push button both after the drive was powered up and while it
was being powered up. It does not spinup.
> Antonio
> arcarlini at iee.org
--
Michael Thompson
You folks are the best people I know for scaring up obsolete hardware. <smile>
My employer needs a power supply for an Acer Altos G510 server.
He has contacted all his sources and come up empty. He says, "I really need one."
Specifically, we need:
STANDARD POWER SUPPLY 450W DELTA/ DPS-450DBM). Acer Part Numbers PY.45005.002
Any leads would be really appreciated. Google gets exactly four hits. <sigh>
Please reply p-mail.
Thanks,
Jim Arnott
Support Services
Eastern Oregon Net, Inc.
La Grande, OR
>> For the vector purists (e.g. me) making SVG or Postscript or PDF or some
>> True vector format, would be a desirable goal. But with endpoint resolution
>> Only 1024x768 probably overkill. I still hate seeing what I know are
>> True vector lines, get rasterized.
> Actually, IIRC, the 4631 is raster, not a vector device, It scans an
> electro beam across the storage target in the (vecotr display) CRT and
> reads out what's stored. And IIRC it does it a scan line at a time and
> prints the image using a strange, flat, 1-axis CRT onto photosensitive
> paper with the other axis being achieved by the paper movement.
I was using a 4631 as late as 1990 to do "real work". (OK, it was academic, but real.)
Somebody in office supplies knew somebody in procurement who could get me as much of
The silver paper as I wanted.
Anyway, even though the 4631 was a raster device in scanning, it still managed
To avoid the jaggies that most pixellated devices suffer from. I note that the
Decent PDF and SVG viewers manage to smooth over much of the jagginess.
Tim.
>> Anyone have a manual for this drive or know how to get it work without
>> connecting an OCP?
>
> How complex is the OCP? Is it possible to fake it?
>
> -tony
It is actually fairly simple. It has a bunch of LEDs and START/STOP
and WRITE PROTECT switches. It also has a connection to the processor
for the RUN LED and the HALT switch. I tried just the OCP without
connecting the cable to the processor and the drive will not spin up.
There must be just a little logic on the board. I suspect that just
adding a START jumper to the OCP connector on the drive will get it to
spin up. I just need to figure out which pins.
> Browsing the link you attached reminds me of one problem I came across
> some time ago...
> The drive seems to complain about the missing speed signal.
> How is the speed signal generated?
> Is there still an opto coupler under the drive assembly detecting the
> sector impulses from a crown like mechanic coupled with the spindle?
>
> It is perhaps worth to check the LED / photo transistor for dust.
> When done verify that a proper signal is generated and transmitted to
> the disk controller assembly.
>
> Hope it will help, please keep us updated about your progress.
>
> Bernhard Wulf
I will pull the HDA and look at the encoder next weekend.
>> I pulled two RA70 disks from a pair of VAX-3500s that I have. By some
>> miracle both drives spin up and go ready when the Operator Control
>> Panel is connected. I was thinking that one of these drives would work
>> nicely with the UDA50 disk controller in the 11/44 until I can get the
>> RA81s sorted out.
>>
>> These drives are supposed to work with the Operator Control Panel.
>> There is a button on the back of the drive that says Unit Number
>> Accept. I pushed the button both before and after power up, but the
>> RA70 does not spin up.
>>
>> Anyone have a manual for this drive or know how to get it work without
>> connecting an OCP?
>
> I have used RA7x drives with a KDA50 (M7164 / M7165) without an OCP
> attached to the drives. ?It has been a while now. ?I don't remember
> there being anything tricky about getting it to work. ?I was probably
> using either an RA72 or RA73. ?I'll have to look and see if I have an
> RA70 to try.
>
> I don't remember if I ever found any RA7x drive manuals other than
> this one on the net, which doesn't have all that much useful
> information:
> RA7x/SA7x Pocket Reference Guide, Order Number EK-RSA7X-PG-002
>
> -Glen
I have Googled for the User's Manual, but have not found anything yet.
Thanks for all of the suggestions!
UPS delivered the RL02 controller today. We have LOTS of RL01 and RL02
drives to try. We have XXDP on an RL01 that might make diagnosing the
RA81s a little easier.
--
Michael Thompson
>
>Yes, exactly. The domestic mains is nomianlly 230V now. We get a single
>phase wire and a neurtal, the latter being close to ground. Everything is
>designed to run off that 230V supply. There is no 'centre tap'. So our
>cookers, say, have 230V elements and a timer that runs off 230V mains.
>
>Actually, the European mains is 3 phase. The final transformer secondary
>is start (wye?) connected with the star point being th eneautral. Houses
>get a single phase supply consisting of that neurral wire and one of the
>phase wires -- to balance the load, neighbouring hosues in a road get
>different phases [1]. Of coruse industral places get the full 2 phase
>mains to run larger motors, etc. It's very difficult to convince the
>electricity companies to run 3 phase mains into a normal house, though,
>which is a problem for people who ant to run large disk drives ;-)
>
>[1] In the cases of blocks of flats, student halls of residence, etc,
>it's not unheard-of for each floor to be wired to wired to a different
>phase. This has led to studend running extension leads to the rooms above
>and below theres so as to get a 3 phase supply...
>
That's sad. In Sweden houses (almost?) always have 3-phase mains
(230/400V), and flats get single phase. A very large proportion of
Swedish houses have electric heating, run off 3-phase. A house will have
at least 16A, sometimes 25A meter fuses; Sweden is quite cold in winter.
Running 3 phase into a normal house is standard. The water heater will be
3 phase, usually the kitchen stove as well, and washing machines and
tumble dryers can be connected either single phase or 2, sometimes 3
phase. The lighting and power points will be distributed evenly between
the three phases (obviously).
Although my flat does seem to have 3 phase. I shall have to check, I only
moved in 3 months ago...
Jonas
>> Weren't there also some European countries (or parts thereof) that
>> used various DC voltages for lighting and small appliances? (Belgium
>> or Italy?).
>
>We had DC mains in England into the 1950s in some areas. A lot of radios
Gothenburg, Sweden had 127 VDC in some parts of the town in the late
60s/early 70s, even though almost all of Sweden had 220/380 3-phase
since ages.
>and TVs weew 'AC/DC',not just to save the cost of the mains transformer.
>I rememebr working on TVs (long after the 1950s, of coruse) with
>different voltage selector settings for AC and DC mains (possibly due to
>fact that the smoothing capacitor would charge to the peak and not the
>RMS votlage of AC mains). One of the Mullard books of audio amplfiier
>cirucits (including things like the 5-10 and 5-20) includes a circuit
>for an amplifier (4 valves, something like UF86, 2 * UCL82, UY85) for
>AC/DC mains. Of coruse it was hot-chassis which is a right pain...
>
Hmm, I shall have to have a look at my Mullard book. I seem to remember
that one.
Jonas
Can anyone recommend a good step-down voltage converter? I'd like to
be able to plug 110 power tools into 220 european style outlets. Some
of the power tools are 1.5hp induction motors, while others have the
typical universal motors. I'll need a high-wattage unit. At least
2000watts I think, whatever is the maximum for a 20amp 110 outlet.
Amazon has one for something like $85. But I'd happily pay twice that
or more for one built like a tank with high quality components. Can
anyone suggest one?
brian
Nick writes:
> Anyone have any interest in purchasing this minicomputer (believe it is
> a Texas Instrument from 1972 used in manufacturing). It is missing the
> core memory box however. I have a friend who is thinking of selling it,
> I had no interest as it was missing the core memory, but maybe someone
> here will want it?
> http://lh4.ggpht.com/_lkddKjPsPFU/TUswHtRykbI/AAAAAAAAB6k/1ne8IFziAUU/s640/…
Wow... where does this machine fall relative to say the TI-960A or 960B?
I'm guessing that each of those little cards is one or maybe two bits of ALU/register slice.
The TI-960's I've seen (maybe they were "A"'s and "B"'s and not the earlier pre-A) were working at a slightly higher level of integration with moderately bigger PCB's.
Tim.