At 06:59 PM 2/5/06 +0000, Tony wrote:
big
DC-600 type tapes used in the HP 9144, etc. They did use a different
tape in some earlier products but they were VERY different and immediately
recognizable. I have a couple of those drives but I've never seen a tape
for them. It was driven like an audio cassette tape via the hubs.
If that's the tape I'm thinking of, it's used in the 9830, and I think
also the 982. There was an external tape drive for these machines that I
forget the number of (HP9865???)
No, the drives and tapes used on the 9830, 9865, and the other 98x0
machines is an earlier tape and it's different. They're more like audio
tapes and have an all plastic shell and the tape is driven via the hubs.
The tapes that I was talking about are similar to the HP-85 tapes but much
larger (DC-600 size) and use an aluminium base plate and are used in the HP
I nkonw tham... But you said (in a bit you quoted above)
'It was driven like an audio cassette tape via the hubs.'
That applies to the 9820, not to the DC600s...
9142, 9144 and 7942 and similar drives. FWIW some of
these larger tapes are
marked 16 track and others are 32 track but they both look alike.
The tapes for the 9144 and 9145 are pre-formatted by the factory, it's a
special HP format. IIRC the 9145 (32 track) can read but not write the
9144 (16 track) tapes. I only have 9144s.
The 9142 uses plain DC600 tapes. They are not factory-formatted, and
AFAIK the format is one of the QIC standards (QIC24?).
The tapes are mechanically compatible with audio compact cassettes, but the
tape is almost certainly different. These drives detect the clear leader
by an optical sensor that reflects off the inside of the cassette shell
where you'd expect the capstan/pinch roller to be, you need to use a
light-coloured cassette. I've got a few Verbatim digital cassettes that
work fine in my 9830.
That's good to know. I have a 9830 and a 9865 but I've never tried to
use the tape drives in them.
There's not a lot to go wrong with them. There are rubber O-ring tyres on
the back of the drive spindles that could fail, but they should be easy
to replace (I can tell you how to take the drive apart). The EOT sensor
bulb coul fail too, but apart from that there's not a lot to go wrong. No
rubber rollers, for example.
Oh what the heck... Here are the dismantling instructions...
-------------
Undo the 4 screws holding the mounting bracket to the drive. Ease the
bracket (and PCB) away, unplug the 4 'plugs' (actually PCBs with pins)
from the rear PCB. These plugs are marked
'Motor', 'Solenoid' (also
carries the cassette-in and write-protect
swtich signals), 'Photo' (EOT
sensor) and 'Head' (to Head PCB).
Undo the 3 screws holding the PCB to the bracket, evenly. The spacers and
screws normally stay with the bracket. Remove the PCB.
Undo the long through-bolt holding the front panel in place. Remove the
nut, shakeproof washer, flat washer and spacer. Pull out the bolt (with
spacer, flat washer and shakeproof washer at the head end). Remove the
front panel and slide out the window (it often falls out!). Undo the nut
and bolt holding the earth wire to the front panel, and remove the panel
completely.
Undo the 4 screws holding the motor rear support bracket to the side
frames. Remove the central screw and the bracket. Slide out the motor
assembly from the pivot post.
Disconnect the 4 wires at the back of the head (push-on terminals),
noting their positions. Undo the 2 screws holding the head PCB to the
head plate assembly, Remove the PCB and the spacers.
Undo the 3 screws holding the left side plate to the head plate assmebly.
Remove the plate (unhook the cassette holding spring from inside the side
frame of the head plate). Remove the 2 spacers from the pivot posts.
Turn the drive over, free the right side plate (and complete head plate
assembly) from the posts on the right hand side. Remove the spacers.
To repair the optical EOT sensor, remove the 2 remaining screws on the
PCB (one was removeed when the head PCB was removed). Free the P-clip.
Remove the tape guide from the front of the sensor, and carefully remove
the PCB. It contains an LDR and light bulb.
Back on the main chassis, remove the screw holding the motor pivot post
in place. Remove the post.
Remove the leaf spring from the back of each cassette spindle pulley (one
screw each). Remove the circlip from the front of the cassette spindle,
slide off the plastic washer, then remove the spindle. Remove the second
plastic washer from the face of the pulley. Remove the O-ring from the pulley
Undo the 2 screws holding the brake plate in place. Free the spring, then
lift off the brake plate and the 2 plastic spacers. Note that both of
these must be fitted the right way up.
---------------
-tony