>Message: 6
>Date: Mon, 11 May 2015 17:41:16 +0000
>From: tony duell <ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk>
>Subject: RE: VCF Ban, Vector Graphic cards, Wright card punch, MDS
>Keyboard
<snip>
>My biggest worry is that my will will not be found and/or my next of kin will not
>get contacted. He isn't a relative of mine, just a very close friend. He is the
>beneficiary of my will and the exector, but if this is not realised he might not
>get what he should. I am wondering if there is some way of ensuring he gets told
>if anything should happen to me (not that I am planning anything like that, but...)
>
>-tony
Probably the best thing you can do is let the next of kin know that you have a will and either give them a copy or tell them what your wishes are. Then put a copy of the will where it can easily be found (such as in your desk drawer). My wife and I are redoing our will and are letting our sons and my brothers know what we are planning. They all will know where to look for the official copy of the will.
Bob
Folks,
I started working on an AT&T 3B2 emulator using the SIMH platform late
last year. As these things often do, it got side-tracked by life. We
moved to Washington state in January, and I've been consumed with
other matters since then.
I'd like to finally get back to the 3B2 emulator. Having physical
access to a real 3B2 would make this process much, much easier,
especially one I could put custom homebrew ROMs into.
If you have any 3B2s you'd be willing to let me borrow or buy, please
drop me a line. I'm located about an hour from Seattle, WA in Kitsap
County.
Or, if you're interested in a trade, I have some PDP-11 Qbus gear I'd
be willing to part with, too.
-Seth
Hello,
I've managed to image some of the SC-40 drives (currently just for
personal backup use due to any legal issues/possible customer data).
I've found in the documentation references to a file named COUGH.DRP which
seems to be the CompuServe equivalent of the TOPS-10 Monitor Calls Guide.
Does anyone have a copy of the CompuServe COUGH DROPS file scurried away
somewhere? It would be very useful in discerning the patches to TOPS-10
and some SC-40 extensions.
--
Cory Smelosky
http://gewt.net Personal stuff
http://gimme-sympathy.org Projects
Holm Tiffe wrote:
> Yes guys, it's true.
> I've successfully "repaired" the drive with an careful hit from a
> rubber-hammer!
I am pretty blown away! Hard to believe that a disk can be fixed with that
kind of treatment!
But I shouldn't be. Remember that scene in one of the early Stars Wars movies
where they go to make the jump to hyperspace (or something like that), and
nothing happens, and Hans gets up and whacks the bulkhead in a very
particular spot, and then it works?
I first saw that movie with a couple of people from the MIT computer lab, and
we were all convulsed with laughter at that scene. One of our mainframes had
a sticky power relay, and when you hit the 'power off' on the front console,
nothing would happen. So you'd walk around to the back of the machine, open a
door, and give a particular box a good whack in a particular way with your
fist, and it would power off.
Some things just never change!
Noel
Hi have a boxed CDC 721 Plato terminal, making room so need to
sell/trade it. Its VERY heavy and would prefer someone pick it up.
Please contact me off list - curtv2015 at gmail.com
Thanks,
Curt
Some time back I acquired a Zilog Z8-02 MPD. This is the bond-out
version of the Z8 microcontroller. The normal Z8 contained 2K of
internal masked ROM and was packaged in a 40-pin DIP. The Z8-02 had no
masked ROM (or possibly the masked ROM was disabled), and the address
and data buses for the internal ROM, along with a few clock and
control signals, were brought out to the extra 24 pins of a 64-contact
ceramic leadless quad-in-line package (QUIP). Typically for emulation
it would be used with a 2716 EPROM, or 2KB of RAM with address and
data multiplexers for a fancy emulator.
The ceramic leadless QUIP package was used for bondouts from Intel and
Zilog, and later, for the Intel iAPX 432 components. Later it was
replaced with the square JEDEC ceramic leadless package. Note that the
ceramic leadless QUIP is unrelated to the more common leaded QUIP
packages used by NEC, Rockwell, and Motorola.
Unlike many modern leadless packages (DFN, QFN, BGA), the ceramic
leadless QUIP is intended for use only in a socket, which was made by
3M. Today the sockets are even harder to find than the chips that
require them.
I designed a simple QUIP adapter for use with solderless breadboards,
and wired up a Z8-02 MPD along with a 28C16 EEPROM for the program
memory, a 62256 static RAM, address latch, and decoder. I programmed a
copy of the Z8671 Basic/Debug interpreter into the EEPROM. To my
amazement, it worked the first time.
Photos:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/22368471 at N04/sets/72157652653732622
The last "photo" is a screen shot of Kermit talking to it. I've
entered an inefficient program to search for primes, and the screen
shot shows it being LISTed, RUN, and then stopped after a few primes
have been found.
Not shown, I printed the value of some of the interpreter's globals,
to verify that the static RAM was recognized properly. (The
interpreter can actually provide minimal functionality with no
external memory!)
While Zilog only claimed it to be a subset of Dartmouth BASIC, the
interpreter does not include the FOR statement, so IMNSHO it barely
even qualifies to be considered a "tiny BASIC".
The competing National Semiconductor INS8073 had 2.5K of ROM, and
Intel 8052AH-BASIC had 8K, so they supported more features of BASIC.
Perfect timing! My new old HP 1000 is coming in a few days and it's missing
some of the cards you have. I'll take your HP 1000 cards if we can agree on
price. I will contact you off-line.
Marc
>From: HP Friedrichs <hpfparts at yahoo.com>
>Subject: HP-1000 and PDP computer parts available
>I have a sizable collection of HP-1000 circuit cards, as well as a couple
>of PDP cards.
>They take up a lot of space in my workshop, so I'd like to find a home for
>them.
>Please see my web site here for a complete list of parts:
>The H.P. Friedrichs (AC7ZL) Homepage
>Thanks and 73,PeteAC7ZL
> View on www.hpfriedrichs.com
FREE Commodore Amiga 1084S Monitor. You just pay shipping. Needs some
soldering on the video connector and the power switch. Otherwise it
works fine
Located in Farwell Michigan.
You can pick it up or pay shipping
Steve
I really couldn't think how best to word the subject. I pulled the CRT out
of the HP 1331 X-Y display that I got the other day, then took all the old
tape off, cleaned it up, and reassembled with new tape. It's no longer
arcing around the CRT face, which is good.
However, there's a flexible plastic strip running between the CRT face and
the chassis which carries three lines (it's a storage tube rather than a
conventional CRT) and I'm still getting periodic arcing across these lines
which of course upsets the display's operation. As far as I can tell,
there's no 'sandwich' (and hence glue) involved - it's just a single
plastic strip with conductive traces drawn onto it.
Does anyone have experience of these kinds of strips in an HV environment,
and what (if anything) can be done for them when they start to fail?
Possibilities seem to be:
1) Try some more cleaning,
2) Reworking with conductive paint (I wondered if one or more of the traces
have gone high resistance in certain spots and this is encouraging the HV
to arc between them 'upstream' of such areas),
3) Plastic itself has broken down in some way, requiring replacement; has
anyone managed to make a replacement strip from scratch?
Although I've not tried the actual X/Y/Z inputs yet, basic
write/store/erase functionality and beam movement via the front X/Y
controls seems to be working so long as the arcing isn't occurring, and
it'd be a fun little gadget to get working.
cheers
Jules
> From: Jules Richardson
> ... "splice tape" is rated for close to 22kV.
> Of course that's *through the tape* though, so although it would
> insulate the conductors from the outside world, it's not clear how
> effective it would be at insulating the two conductors that are only a
> couple of mm apart; the tape doesn't really play a part in that
> scenario, only the glue.
Maybe I'm misunderstanding something, but why not apply a layer of tape
immediately on top of the conductors - since a thickness of .X of a mm
(through) will insulate 22KV, Y mm (across - where Y is the distance between
the conductors) definitely ought to do it.
Although there is the glue that holds it down - I wasn't sure if that was the
glue you were referring to, or if you meant some other glue - that might not
be as insulating (or maybe it is, just don't know).
But, anyway, if the glue might be an issue, you'd have to apply the tape
non-glue side down (and stick something like regular electrical tape to it,
glue-glue, to nullify its glue on the now-up-facing side - unless you want to
use that to join the two layers of the original together). As to how to get it
to adhere: if you can figure out what the insulating glue was that they used
originally, or some modern facsimile thereof, you could use that.
Noel
