Do you still have the chip or chips below, if so
I'd be interested in buying them...
Eurtly Parker
Eurtly(a)Southslope.net
I have a SN94281 in a Radio Shack package.
[demime 1.01a removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Notebook.jpg]
Hi,
A charity I do some work for has an IBM PS/1 they would wamt to sell.
80386/16. 40 Mb HD, color monitor, dutch handbook. Location Arnhem, The
Netherlands.
Wim
Er, in case it isn't obvious, reply to me at
xyakoxwenk(a)yahoox.com (after removing those x's)
about the Univac...
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com
>From: ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk
>
>> Hans' presentation on storing vintage computer data as XML made me
>> realise that the most important thing is to get everything preserved,
>> and then work out what to do with it. I could store everything I've
>> ever written on an 8-bit computer in a corner of my existing hard drive
>> and not even notice it was there. I've got to dig out all those KCS
>> cassettes, ASR33 printouts and even a few bits of paper tape and get
>> them transferred.
>
>I can assure you those paper tapes will still be readable long after your
>hard disk had headcrashed!. Why do people insist on transfering reliable
>storage media onto modern, unreliable stuff? It's the same with
>photographs and cine films -- people transfer them to CDs and DVDs. The
>originals have a much longer life...
>
>-tony
>
Hi Tony
I'm more interested in getting the information spread to multiple
locations, regardless of the media. Even paper tape burns up in
a fire. The only real hope is a lot of copies spread around the
world. This is why I've made my efforts for the Poly88 and I'm
doing similar for the H89.
Multiple media and multiple locations is the only hope.
Dwight
Hi Bob
My brother passed away recently and while going through his belongings, I
discovered a 2116b with 2160a power supply. There is a box with it containing
more cards and the manual. I couldn't say whether it is working or not, but
knowing my brother, it would still work. I'm not sure what to do with it yet,
but if you are interested, let me know.
Thanks.
Bernie Stock
DSV Microtech
560A 11t6h Ave.
Campbell River, BC
V9W 4G4
Tel: 250 286 3173
Fax: 250 286 3178
Hello Folks.
I'm seeking out the following manuals for a client:
- Apollo DN560 (any manuals, in particular hardware reference)
- SUN2 hardware reference manuals
- Synapse N+1 (database machine from the early 1980s) any manuals
- Motorola VERSAmodule 32-bit Monoboard Microcomputer User's Manual M68KVM04/D1
- Any supplemental information on the above regarding the 68010
- DEC MINC-11 or MINC-23 or MiniMinc hardware reference
- IBM System/360 Model 195 Field Engineering Manual: Theory of Operation
- IBM System/360 Model 195 Field Engineering Manual: Storage Control
- Unit and Buffer Storage IBM Form No. SY22-6850
- Field Engineering Maintenace Diagram Manual (FEMDM)
System/360 Model 195, Volume 3 Form No. SY22-6853-1
As always, there is a monetary reward for the capture of these manuals.
If you've got any of these and are willing to loan them for a period of
time, please contact me directly at <sellam(a)vintage.org>.
Thanks!
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
* Old computing resources for business and academia at www.VintageTech.com *
I have two sheet feed scanners here that anyone can have, just cover
shipping.
Spectra 1200 Color Scanner
SP Color 6000
Here's the catch (there's always a catch). I don't have the interface
cards for them. One of the two I have a manual and software, and the
software for both is available on the web (PlusTek's web site?).
They use, from what I can tell, a custom interface card. I tried to find
out if it was a generic SCSI card, but I wasn't able to turn up any info
that indicated that. They do pull their power from the interface card, so
I tend to think it is not SCSI.
I also don't have the cable that goes between the card and the scanner,
but both ends are DB 25 so it should be fairly easy to get a cable
(assuming there isn't some funky pinout for it).
I also don't know for sure that either scanner works. They were given to
me a few years ago, at the time the previous owner told me they were
parallel scanners, so I didn't think of checking for an interface card
until it was too late. As a result, I have no way of testing them, so I
can't say if they work or not.
If anyone wants either or both, just cover shipping or pick them up
(Ridgewood, NJ 07450). They are going in the dumpster no later than
Wednesday, so let me know by then.
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
>From: "Marianne L. Faber" <mlfaber(a)earthlink.net>
>To: jfoust(a)threedee.com
>Subject: Lanier Word Processing System Needs New Home
>Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 22:10:54 -0500
>
>Hello John Foust--
>
>I was delighted to find your "Computer Rescue" site, and I hope you can help me find a home for a friend's Lanier Word Processing System. This is a complete system, including most manuals, that dates from the late 80's. The owner is fastidious about care. He retired the system up sometime around 1989, and it was in full working order at the time. Currently, it is resting safely in about 12 labeled boxes on storage shelves in southern Minnesota.
>
>Do you know of a collector who would be interested in it? The alternative is May 27th's annual "free computer recycling day" at our county recycling center. I would hate to see that happen, but the eternal quest for shelf space is pressing the issue.
>
>Thanks for your help.
>
>Marianne L. Faber
><mailto:mlfaber@earthlink.net>mlfaber(a)earthlink.net
> I've used alcohol on that stuff and it seems to remove some but not all
>of it. I've never found anything that would remove it completely.
I've used Simple Green. Put a good coating of it on (a small pool of it
to cover the marker), then let it sit... and sit... and sit some more...
then look at it, walk away and let it sit some more. Give it a good 30
minutes.
Then firmly start rubbing it off. I've found that takes off most all of
it. Repeat as needed (usually after the 2nd or 3rd application, the
marker is either gone completely, or faded to the point of not very
noticable... however, on some materials it has almost no effect other
than to waste your time and stink up your work bench)
Try on the case in a non noticable area first, as I've also found letting
Simple Green sit for that long can discolor some paint and plastics.
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
