Yellowing may be irreversible. I've been thinking of removing all
electronics from a case, and soaking it in dilute bleach solution
overnight.
I did find a great method for removing permanent marker from textured
plastic. Cameo copper cleaner powder works great and doesn't harm the
texture.
For other stains, I use a Scotch Brite pad of the type that says it's
safe on fiberglass.
I'd sure like to find a good method for cleaning keyboards.
Kai
> ----------
> From: Greg Mast[SMTP:gmast@polymail.cpunix.calpoly.edu]
> Reply To: classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu
> Sent: Monday, June 09, 1997 12:10 AM
> To: Discussion re-collecting of classic computers
> Subject: Cleaning Plastic
>
> I apologize if this is a repeat question but I can't seem to find the
> previous post.
>
> What were the solutions to removing yellowing from the plastic cases?
> I
> bought a printer that looks terrible. Not sure what caused it so any
> suggestions helpful at this point.
>
> thanks,
>
> Greg
>
Does anyone know how to read/write TRS-80 Model I format diskettes with
a PC?
I have a CompatiCard II and a Copy II Option Board. I assume the Option
Board is able to copy TRS-80 diskettes (I hope, just got it this weekend
and haven't tried yet) but I need to actually write files. Sydex 22Disk
appears to support only CP/M formats.
Any ideas?
thanks
Kai
Hi,
The Apple /// I picked up last weekend has one annoying flaw, and that is
a *very* loud power supply, that seems to get louder the longer the
machine is powered up.
I think this thing becomes even louder than our 1950s-era Westinghouse
refrigerator. (OK, perhaps an exaggeration, but the sound seems to
carry farther.)
There is nothing obviously functionally wrong with the computer - it boots
up fine, there's no wavering or glitching in the display, nothing to say
that something might be wrong.
Except the buzzing.
It makes me nervous.
Is this noise normal, or is it a sign that something is about to go
kablooie? And if something's wrong, is there any way of knowing which
part is about to go?
It looks like the power supply should be easy to repair, but I don't know
what I'm doing with these things. I know it's been stated here that power
supplies should be checked before powering anything up, but I don't really
know how to do that, and sometimes I'm just too impatient to see my new
toys running.
Doug Spence
ds_spenc(a)alcor.concordia.ca
At 18:08 09/06/97 -0400, you wrote:
>
>On Mon, 2 Jun 1997, George Lin wrote:
>
>> At 11:24 PM 6/1/97 -0700, you wrote:
>> ><...>
>> >> accessories including a CP/M cartridge for C64
>> >
>> >A CP/M _carthridge_? Awesome.
>>
>> I just tried it yesterday. Pretty cool. The Z80 is in the cartridge. The
>> package comes with a CP/M 2.2 diskette for 1541 and a condensed CP/M manual
>> by Commodore (copyright 1983). There is a K-Mart price tag on the original
>> box that reads $54. Not bad.
>
>This reminds me... I also have a Z80 cartridge for the C64. But it's not
>the one from Commodore. It's from a company called DATA 20 Corporation.
>
>I haven't been able to get it to work. It has what looks like a connector
>for a power supply on the back, but I didn't get the PS with it. It also
>came without any disks, though it did have a cassette in the box with it,
>which says "Use side A for Commodore 64/Use side B for VIC 20".
>
>It's a Z-80 Video Pak, that combines the Z80 processor AND an 80-column
>display adapter into one (big fat) cartridge.
>
>To quote from the box:
>
> The Z-80 Video Pak brings the convenience of an 80 column screen and
> the power of a CP/M compatible operating system to the Commodore 64.
>
> Designed to be used with a monitor, the Z-80 Video Pak lets the
> Commodore 64 owner switch to a 40 or 80 column screen in black and
> white, or back to the standard color screen. All switching is done
> through software and no cables need to be moved.
>
> The Z-80 Video Pak has its own Z-80 microprocessor and operating
> system which allows the 64 to run CP/M software formatted for the
> Commodore 1541 disk drive. A Terminal mode which brings communication
> with central data bases is included at no extra cost. The Z-80 Video
> Pak also supports the advanced screen handling features of all Video
> Pak models such as erase to the end of line, erase to end of screen,
> and dump screen to printer.
>
>
>If anyone out there knows this thing's power requirements (AAAGH! Another
>wall-wart!) and where to get CP/M disks in 1541 format, please tell. :)
>
>
>Doug Spence
>ds_spenc(a)alcor.concordia.ca
>
>Hi you lot in the USA. I have a Boxed CPM cart and Disk Commodore
Original, Anybody want it??
Emulator BBS
01284 760851
Keeping 8-Bit ALIVE
I responded to a Usenet post regarding some UCSD P-Code stuff. It turned
out the guy had a garage of other stuff that he was trying to get rid of.
Here's what I got in two carloads:
o 1 Kaypro II, 1 Kaypro 2X (dead--for parts), 1 Kaypro 4
o 1 boxed Commodore 64, 1 Commodore 128, plus a bunch of Commodore
accessories including a CP/M cartridge for C64
o 1 Osborne Executive
o 1 Compaq suitcase
o 1 Atari 520ST (dead--for parts), 1 Atari 1040ST, 1 boxed Atari Falcon030,
plus 2 Atari RGB monitors and other Atari accessories
o 1 boxed Timex Sinclair 1000
o 1 TRS-80 Model 1 with expansion interface and disk drive
o 1 Vector 4
o 2 Apple IIc's, one of them is a rare prototype
o 20 Xerox paper cartons full of original software on disks/tapes for the
above systems, manuals, out-of-print computer books, and old computer
magazines
The price? Free.
George
P.S. My back still hurts.
-- ______________________________ ______________________________
/ /\ / /\
/ George Lin _/ /\ / Opinions expressed in this _/ /\
/ Antique Computer Collector / \/ / message do not necessarily / \/
/ http://museum.home.ml.org /\ / reflect my employer's. /\
/_____________________________/ / /_____________________________/ /
\_____________________________\/ \_____________________________\/
\ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \
Apple IIe, IIc, Mac 512K, Atari 800, 800XL, 1040ST, Falcon030, VCS, 5200,
ColecoVision VGS, Commodore 64, 64C, 128, plus/4, Compaq, Eagle II,
KayPro II, 4, Nintendo NES, Osborne Executive, TI 99/4A, Timex Sinclair
1000, 1500, TriGem SLT-100, TRS-80 Model I, III, 100, Color Computer 2,
Vector 4.
>On Mon, 9 Jun 1997, Kai Kaltenbach wrote:
>
>> I recommend "3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover", which is inexpensive
>> and comes in a red and white quart-size can that will last you until
>> roughly the year 2020. Some hardware stores carry it, but it's most
>> reliably found at an auto paint supply store (check your local yellow
>> pages).
>>
>> In response to an earlier question, Cameo copper cleaner can be found in
>> most any grocery store or general goods store.
>
>Ok, there have been so many cleansers thrown around in the last 12 hours
>that I think its time to compile a list of these with their respective
>uses and throw it in the FAQ.
>
>Sam
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Computer Historian, Programmer, Musician, Philosopher, Athlete, Writer, Jackass
Well you can add CRC 226 and 556,
They don't harm platics (actually they give it a nice gloss if you like
that sorta thing)
Works really well on these "permanant" paper labels.
Cheers
+----------- Keith Whitehead -----------+
| Physics and Chemistry Depts |
| Massey University |
| Palmerston North |
| New Zealand |
| |
| Ph +64 6 350-5074 Fax +64 6 354-0207 |
+------------------------------------------+
Wish I had one.
----------
> From: Sam Ismail <dastar(a)crl.com>
> To: Discussion re-collecting of classic computers
<classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu>
> Subject: Re: Radofin Aquarius
> Date: Monday, June 09, 1997 3:41 PM
>
> On Mon, 9 Jun 1997, Jeff Hellige wrote:
>
> > Of course, Sam and others have taken to talking about the Mattel
Aquarius
> > lately, but I've never seen a mention of the Radofin version, which
other than
> > the lack of 'Mattel' logos and the change to the model number and label
on the
> > bottom of the machine, is identical. Were many of them sold? Does
anyone
> > else out there have one? About all I've been able to learn is that
since
> > Radofin was the actual manufacturer of both versions, they continued to
> > produce it for an unknown length of time after Mattel dropped it from
their
> > line. There's not even a mention of it on any of the Aquarius
references on
> > the web.
>
> I'd never even heard of it until you mentioned it to me previous. I
> would think that it's kinda rare.
>
> Sam
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
> Computer Historian, Programmer, Musician, Philosopher, Athlete, Writer,
Jackass
I have a /// for parts!
----------
> From: Doug Spence <ds_spenc(a)alcor.concordia.ca>
> To: Discussion re-collecting of classic computers
<classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu>
> Subject: Re: Buzzing PS?
> Date: Monday, June 09, 1997 4:21 PM
>
>
> On Fri, 30 May 1997, A.R. Duell wrote:
>
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > The Apple /// I picked up last weekend has one annoying flaw, and
that is
> ^^^
> > > a *very* loud power supply, that seems to get louder the longer the
> > > machine is powered up.
>
> <snip>
>
> > > Is this noise normal, or is it a sign that something is about to go
> > > kablooie? And if something's wrong, is there any way of knowing
which
> > > part is about to go?
> >
> > No it's not normal. The Apple uses a switching type supply, and there
> > shouldn't be any 60Hz waveforms anywhere after the mains
> > rectifier/smoothing cap. If it's buzzing there is a problem
>
> OK, here's a question from an electronics-know-nothing (which hopefully
> isn't in the FAQ, else I'll look like a complete idiot :) ): How do I
> tell the difference between a switching supply and a linear supply? Just
> from looking at it.
>
> I get the idea that linear supplies have honking big transformers in
them,
> and switching supplies don't.
>
> > It _may_ be nothing more than the mains filter coil (if it has one), or
it
> > may be a dried up smoothing capacitor (the 2 big ones rated at about
300V)
> > that needs replacing. You could try those first.
>
> I don't remember there being any very large capcitors. (Nothing like in
> my PET 2001, anyway... hooo boy! ;) ). I'll take another look inside to
> see if I can spot the ones you're talking about.
>
> <snip>
>
> > Apple PSUs are easy to check. The 6 way cable unplugs from the main
board,
> > and the wiring is given in the Apple ][ reference manual. Just connect
a
> > voltmeter between the +5V output and the ground wire (red and black?)
and
> > power up. I don't think you need a dummy load. If you don't get 5V when
> > you power up, you need to sort out that PSU.
>
> Well, the ][ and /// use different connectors, but I noticed that the
> ///'s supply has info on the PCB.
>
> The supply works, BTW. As I mentioned, the system powers up and runs as
> if nothing were wrong. The noise the power supply makes just makes me
> nervous.
>
> > --
> > -tony
> > ard12(a)eng.cam.ac.uk
> > The gates in my computer are AND,OR and NOT, not Bill
>
> Doug Spence
> ds_spenc(a)alcor.concordia.ca
> Bill mentions sticking a keyboard in a dishwasher. Bill, I assume you've
> done this, and it's OK? I would think that with the heat of drying and
> all it would kill the components.
Over the years I've done this to de-crud boards, keyboards and equipment
dropped in salt water.
Water generally will not harm electronics save for stuff made of paper liek
speakers. The real problem is insuring it is completely dry after cleaning.
A warm, under 180F oven works for this. Removing keycaps and the like first
is a good thing. Also some keyboards by their contruction will trap water
if it gets in and baking it out is the only way short of sometimes
destructive disassembly. FYI, water gets coffee out the best if there ie a
small amout of soap to break surface tension. Try to use soaps that are not
chemically active and corrosion forming. Woolite is good in the sink for
this and most dishwasher soaps are ok.
Logic boards like DEC modules, motherboards and the like clean well in the
dishwasher.
I've done boards in the sink with a soft bristle brush and woolite and dried
them by blotting with several paper towels and oven dry. The sometimes look
better than new. Remember (not a joke!) Rinse well when doing this.
FYI: resist the temptation to vacuum as the moving air can cause static
charges that can do subtle and long term damage to ICs, even ttl.
Dishwasing is actually safer.
Allison
> > > DEC KBD01 - a true whatsit - 8085 based, in one of the LSI-11/2 deskto
> > > boxes, RS-232 (maybe) and another D connector on back. Any clues? I
> > > no clue. (I purchased this as well)
> >
> > IF the box is a BDV11VA (or that size 13x12x4.5) it's a remote diagnosti
> > port. Plugs in to the console port and does a modem link for remote use.
>
> For VAXen with that Remote Diagnostic Module?
For late PDP-11s/vax11s and it plugged into the console port and subbed for
same. By doing that all boot console functions were available even if the
system was otherwise down. Not all PDPs supported this. An old item.
Allison
