test-drb June 2012

test-drb@ccmp.vtda.org

193 participants
237 discussions

by rampaginggreenhulk＠yahoo.com

black and red leads are labeled, white is not. Speed control? From large Sun servers OOPS! Sorry. But can someone inform regardless, and what kind of signal/circuit is required to control the speed, if thats the case. Cant successfully look it up now, its this stupid phone.

12 years, 1 month

Lots of vintage electronic and computer stuff

by peter＠vanpeborgh.eu

In September next, I will be emptying a small warehouse of vintage computer and electronic items, including oscilloscopes and lots of valves/tubes. I am trying to ascertain what interest there would be in buying some of these items from me. peter || | | | | | | | | Peter Van Peborgh 62 St Mary's Rise Writhlington Radstock Somerset BA3 3PD UK 01761 439 234 || | | | | | | | |

12 years, 1 month

emulated linux/bsd motorola 68k system?

by ray＠arachelian.com

Anyone know of a working emulator for a Motorola 68K system that works well enough to install either linux/bsd in? Would like to be able to compile and test stuff with GCC to 68K assembly while on the go from an intel macbook pro. Something that could run under MESS would be nice, as an example, but would like a unixy tool-chain.

12 years, 1 month

S-100 8088 CPU board ready for order

by LYNCHAJ＠yahoo.com

Hi! The S-100 8088 CPU board has completed its trace optimization and final checks. It is ready to go for PCB manufacturing order. At the moment there are 10 PCBs for builders on the waiting list. There has to be about 20 PCBs to make an order feasible so if you are interested please let me know. More information at the links below: http://s100computers.com/My%20System%20Pages/8088%20Board/8088%20CPU%20Board .htm http://n8vem-sbc.pbworks.com/w/browse/#view=ViewFolder <http://n8vem-sbc.pbworks.com/w/browse/#view=ViewFolder&param=S-100%208088%2 0CPU%20board> &param=S-100%208088%20CPU%20board As usual these PCBs will be $20 each plus $3 shipping in the US and $6 elsewhere. Thanks and have a nice day! Andrew Lynch

12 years, 1 month

HP 7970B interface trouble

by hp-fix＠xs4all.nl

Today I had finally the time to look after my HP 7970B tape drive. After cleaning and adjusting the mechanics and electronics and some tests, I was planning to hook it up to my HP 2113B processor and found out.... I'm having a HP 7970E interface set, the HP 13183A, and I need the HP 13181A/B interfaces. So if there is someone who wants to trade a set HP 13183A boards with manual for a set of HP 13181A/B boards I would be very very happy.. -Rik

12 years, 1 month

IBM 5150 (fwd)

by sellam＠vintagetech.com

An IBM 5150 needs to go to a good home. See below for details. Reply-to: autumn.quiles at gmail.com -- Sellam Ismail VintageTech ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintagetech.com Whatsoever a man soweth, that shall he also reap...The truth is always simple. ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2012 14:33:43 -0400 From: Autumn Q <autumn.quiles at gmail.com> To: donate at vintage.org Subject: IBM 5150 Hello, My Dad kept our first computer, a complete IBM 5150, for many years. He was proud to have seen it in the Smithsonian! :) Dad recently died and, in going through his things, we decided would like for the 5150 to have a good home. Do you know anyone who would be interested? Thanks so much, Autumn Quiles

12 years, 1 month

My 'New'/ Never-Used: (Complete) Commodore 64 Computer.--(With all peripheral: hardware/ options/ components/ software, etc..). (fwd)

by sellam＠vintagetech.com

A guy in Brentwood, Tennessee is selling his NIB Commodore 64 system. See details below. Complete contact information is included (see phone number at end of text). Reply-to: Lawrence.Gallagher at va.gov -- Sellam Ismail VintageTech ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintagetech.com Whatsoever a man soweth, that shall he also reap...The truth is always simple. ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2012 10:15:48 -0400 From: "Gallagher, Lawrence E." <Lawrence.Gallagher at va.gov> To: vcf at vintage.org Cc: "Gallagher, Lawrence E." <Lawrence.Gallagher at va.gov> Subject: My 'New'/ Never-Used: (Complete) Commodore 64 Computer.--(With all peripheral: hardware/ options/ components/ software, etc..). Vintage Computer Collectors: (Please help me; if possible.). I am selling my 'new'/ never-used: Commodore 64 Computer! -(With all/ various: peripheral devices/ supplies.). I am the original purchaser of the device.-It has never been used! (I need to sell it due to various health problems and concerns.). Please call me; as soon as possible.-I want it all to go to someone who will appreciate it! "Thank You!"- Larry Gallagher 101 Birchwood Court Brentwood, TN 37027-7806. Home: (615) 833-7585.---('Anytime!'). Lawrence.gallagher at va.gov

12 years, 1 month

dc fans

by rampaginggreenhulk＠yahoo.com

So in laymans terms you vary the speed by narrowing or widening the pulses delivered on the positive lead (duty cycle). A steady 12vdc and you get max air flow/speed? The tach lead is registered by something on the mobo, and otherwise has nothing to do with the rotation of the blades? ------------------------------ On Tue, Jun 26, 2012 8:42 PM PDT Dave McGuire wrote: >On 06/26/2012 11:27 PM, Chris Tofu wrote: >> black and red leads are labeled, white is not. Speed control? From >> large Sun servers OOPS! Sorry. But can someone inform regardless, and >> what kind of signal/circuit is required to control the speed, if >> thats the case. Cant successfully look it up now, its this stupid >> phone. > > Put them BACK in the large Sun servers if they're anything remotely >recent. > > It's almost definitely a tachometer lead. They're typically >controlled via PWM, with a closed-loop servo for speed control and >OS-accessible speed monitoring. > > -Dave > >-- >Dave McGuire, AK4HZ >New Kensington, PA

12 years, 1 month

Film Recorders (Agfa PCR II)

by Arno_1983＠gmx.de

ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk (Tony Duell) wrote: > When wa this made. There weren't many 16 pi nprogrammable parts other > htan bbipolar PROMs (which doesn't sound likely here) in the 'classic > era'. Of course tere are such parts now. (...) The installation sticker on top of the case mentions it was set up in 1993. If Wikipedia is to be believed (I know there are mixed opinions about that here, no combustion demonstrations required...), the first standalone PICs (just as an example what could have been used in this place) came about soon after General Instrument's microelectronic division was sold out to Microchip in 1989. > Have you treid looking for a service manual for the camera on the web? > Some Niko ncamera man aulas are there. THe 'electronic' one I looked at > (F3) didn't include full schematcs, but it did have a wiring diagram and > soem theory of operation. It's a possible source of information. The additional board was, according to its silkscreen print, made not by Nikon but by Agfa. It says "AGFA MATRIX DIV 22-23-14180 REV.A" on it. I would not expect to find information about the modification an a Nikon manual, but one might of course look there for the signals one would have to tap when refitting a standard body. > There was a motordrive for the Nikon F, but it is very dififcult to find. > And it requires a diffenrt base casting under the shutter to pring out > various cotnrol levers to the motordrive (to indicate, for example, when > the shutter has copmpleted its open/close operation). That part is ever > harder to find. WP knowledge says the base has to be replaced (which is a matter of just a few screws), then the body/motor combination requires a trip to the specialist for some kind of mechanical adjustment. jim s <jws at jwsss.com> wrote: > The motorized F body is the F-36. (...) Does look like the F approach > would be in the 200 dollar range minimum maybe 400 if you really don't > want to hunt for a long time (assuming you have the body). Oh, that's not the direction I was heading :) I was merely tipping my hat to DrARDs opto-electro-mechanical skills in suggesting he'd surely find a way to convert his camera if he wanted to. On the one hand, I was looking for an AGFA camera module, as they were sold, for the reason of originality - in case somebody has one sitting on the shelf and gathering dust. OTOH if I have to manufacture a replacement, I'll be looking for the simplest solution possible. I don't get why they used a very sophisticated SLR body with exposure control and shutter times down to 1/2000s anyway in an application where none of that is of any use (there is no continuously visible image - which renders the viewfinder useless and would also wreak havoc on automatic exposure control - and image recording times in minutes require the "bulb" setting only). One would think there must be special camera bodys which accomplish advancing the film, opening a shutter as long as a signal is active, and not much else... > [Probably macro or enlarger lens configuration] Thanks for that hint, too. I will be back when I can measure the object distance to the mounting interface, but I don't think it is shorter than the image plane distance, so a close-up lens would be what's asked for rather than an inverted standard or enlarger one. Arno -- Empfehlen Sie GMX DSL Ihren Freunden und Bekannten und wir belohnen Sie mit bis zu 50,- Euro! https://freundschaftswerbung.gmx.de

12 years, 1 month

BEGINNER getting started (Was: Diagnosing and Reparing Commo

by cctech＠beyondthepale.ie

> >And that is soemthing else to be careful about. A friend of mine was >nearely killed by a cheap mete. He measured the voltage of a maisn >socket, it showed 240V or so, so the meter was working/ He flipped the >breaker for what he thought was the right circuit, then measured the >voltage again. 0 or so. So he thought he had isoalted the circuit and >started to remove the socket. Alas the meter had taken that momemnt to >fail (range swithc trouble I think) and he's flipped the wrong breaker. >Result : He got the mains across him. Second result, he bought a good meter. > I can't agree with this. He was not nearly killed by a cheap meter. He was nearly killed because he did not appreciate what could go wrong. While it is less likely to fail, a good meter can still fail. Also, if (for example) the building was wired badly and the breaker opened the neutral, he could still have been in trouble, even with a good meter that was working properly. I prefer to use a neon tester for this sort of job. It doesn't need a functional neutral or ground in order to operate and there is less to go wrong than a meter. However, it can still go wrong and should be tested on a live point before and after using it to identify that a circuit has been powered off and lighting conditions must be such that the glow can be seen. Having verified that the power is off by whatever method (and made sure someone else could not inadvertently switch it back on), continue to take care. Do not dive in and grab a conductor in each hand. It is often possible to treat the circuit as if it is still live - use insulated tools, don't touch any bare conductors and don't let any bare conductors touch each other or anything else conductive. If it is necessary to touch a conductor, I would suggest first brushing it with the back of a finger after ensuring there are no paths to ground through the the other hand in particular or any other body parts in general. Think about using a different method if you are on a high ladder. Don't believe that using a good meter or a good anything else is all you need to keep safe. Whatever you use, think about what could go wrong. (If you decide to use a neon tester, make sure it is a mains rated neon tester and not an very similar looking instrument containing a low voltage filament bulb intended for automotive testing!) Regards, Peter Coghlan.

12 years, 1 month

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test-drb June 2012