On 5/26/07, Zane H. Healy <healyzh at aracnet.com> wrote:
> Well, for anything other than a KZQSA, I'd disagree, but for the
> KZQSA I'm not sure the KZQSA has much value left in it. Maybe you
> should just look at getting a VAXstation 3100/20 or a similar system,
Ahh, I've got a couple of those. I just want to see this (slightly)
older iron work.
> http://h71000.www7.hp.com/wizard/wiz_9254.html
Thanks for the link - good thing I didn't buy that card in a fit of
boredom last night :)
Part of the spam that hit my inbox is a link to this Sun Micro online
game:
http://howmachineswork.com/sun/templeofthesun/?source=outsert
There are cash prizes and some downloads related to Solaris and Sun
Studio here also.
Have fun--games are not my cup o' tea.
Cheers,
Chuck
Well, thanks to the advice of a knowledgeable Lowe's
employee and a sheet of 3/4" plywood, I was able to
move my Vax 11/750, by myself, from the garage into
the basement. Initially, when I first unloaded the Vax
>from the van, I removed the power supplies to make the
machine lighter. I labeled the wires with masking
tape, so as to get everything back correctly. I have
cleaned and reassembled the power supply section save
for one connector. It's a 20 pin ribbon cable that
plugs into the top of the power controller, coming
>from the 2.5v PSU. This connector is not keyed, and I
don't know which direction it should go -
unfortunately the way the cable is folded it could
really go either way. So, those of you that own a Vax
11/750 - which side should be pin 1?
Also, on each power supply, there is a three position
toggle switch - Lo, Norm and Hi. What is this for?
Similarly, I currently have the battery backup unit
removed. It's obviously going to be totally shot - the
sticker indicates the batteries were last changed in
1984. This isn't needed for the machine to work,
correct? I'm not talking about the Time Of Year
battery, I'm talking about the box mounted on the
front left side, it has a couple lead acid battery
packs in it - not enough to run the computer, I would
think - did this just keep the memory alive?
What's the pinout of the console port? Anything
special, or should a null modem cable be all I need to
connect a terminal?
Thanks!
-Ian
I can't find a datasheet for the Texas Instruments SN74ACT8832AGB 32bit Bit-Slice Processor
anywhere on-line and virtually no information about it. I'd appreciate it if anyone with
information about it or access to a datasheet on it would let me know.
Best regards,
Bill B.
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I am pleased to report a complete success with my 8/A,VTserver via
11/23+,RL02,OS-8 conglomeration. I think it's the *only* time that
any project (with that many places for possible screwups) has
worked for me on the first try :)
As I had reported earlier, I managed to get *something* written
onto an RL02 pack using VTserver to talk to my 11/23+.
But when I put the pack in the 8/A's RL02, for some reason it
wouldn't go Ready initially. After powering down the system and
drive, removing the pack, reinserting, etc. then it did light the
Ready light. No weird noises either. That was a relief.
I had to do a little rewiring of the console port cable since I'd
previously set it up for RS232 and I wanted to use an "authentic"
ASR33 for the console with 20 ma current loop. I entered a short
test program to read the keyboard and echo to the printer. That
worked. So far so good, the 8/A is still alive after sitting for a
year or more.
Then I had to dig out the manual for the 8/A to figure out how to
boot it from an RL02... OK, the boot ROM takes care of the
addressing, just push the "BOOT" key. Not too hard :)
SO I did that - the RL02 gently clucked and the Ready light
flickered, and I heard one character print on the TTY across the
room. I rushed over and peered at the canary-yellow paper while
holding my breath (doing so helps 30 year old hardware and
software work better) and lo and behold... a single "."
Yee ha! I think it's up!
I hopefully typed "DIR" and hit the return - and there came the
directory of my disk image, just like on SIMH except with all the
noise and oily scent of a Teletype.
:) :) :)
-Charles
Hey, all:
Does someone have, or know of, an online PDF of DEC's "PDP-12 Tape Control
Test" (parts 1 and 2) MAINDEC manuals?
I've got a PDP-12 which I've gradually been breathing the life back into,
and so far it's gone very well... but then I got to the LINCtape control
and drives, which are acting like they're _trying_ to do useful things but
aren't, and frankly I need to learn more to figure out what the heck is
going on in there. MAINDEC listings are usually pretty helpful for that.
:)
Thanks!
-O.-
Hello,
I just built one of these devices. It appears to work, but I cannot write any information to the virtual disk on an apple //e. I'm guessing thats because I need the version 2.4 of the firmware. Any idea where I can get this, or what could be wrong?
Thanks,
Brian Ties
I was just able to pick up 2 Commodore 64 units. One has monitor (1701) and
disk drive (1541) and works fine. The other Commodore (computer portion
only) has the Power light come on, but that's about it. It does not even
cause the monitor screen to be active. My question is, is there possibly a
simple solution as to why the C64 is not working? I have not opened it up
yet, and I'm not a real "techie", but I could do some simple internal checks
if I knew what to look for. Thanks for any help anyone may be able to give
me.
Bill Machacek
I've actually fixed one of the CIT-220+ keyboards. It's *not* a job for the
faint of heart. It requires desoldering all 130-odd keys (this REQUIRES
a GOOD
$250 desoldering iron, lacking this I paid someone $60 to do it for me),
prying
each key apart with two sewing-pins, pulling the contact out and
scouring out
the crap in between the little contact pads using a pin, and bending the
sensor-push plate/spring back into an L shape so the key gets good
sensitivity.
The keyboard I had required this because someone at my university had
spilled
something (milk perhaps?) into it and it wicked up into about half the
keys and
got between the metal sensor plates. (The metal sensor plates are the C.Itoh
cheap alternative to any DECENT type of keyboard key mechanism such as
one the
IBM model M clicky keyboard used. I also strongly suspect the real DEC
vt-220
and vt-330 used better technology but I've never seen a real DEC one. :( )
I'm on the lookout for a C.Itoh CIT-220+ manual or a real DEC vt-330
(plus KB)
since I have the manual for a vt-330 and it looks far superior to the
CIT-220+.
I've also dumped all the ROMs from the CIT-220+ if anyone wants/needs a
copy.
(IIRC it uses an 8085 plus two GFX chips plus RAM plus EEPROM plus a bunch
of logic chips in the main unit, and an 8032 or 8048 in the keyboard.)
I could also scan the VT-330 manual if needed, though it will take a while.
Jonathan Gevaryahu
jzg22 at drexel.edu