test-drb May 2007

test-drb@ccmp.vtda.org

235 participants
483 discussions

by silent700＠gmail.com

On 5/26/07, Zane H. Healy <healyzh at aracnet.com> wrote: > Well, for anything other than a KZQSA, I'd disagree, but for the > KZQSA I'm not sure the KZQSA has much value left in it. Maybe you > should just look at getting a VAXstation 3100/20 or a similar system, Ahh, I've got a couple of those. I just want to see this (slightly) older iron work. > http://h71000.www7.hp.com/wizard/wiz_9254.html Thanks for the link - good thing I didn't buy that card in a fit of boredom last night :)

18 years

OT: Sun online game

by cclist＠sydex.com

Part of the spam that hit my inbox is a link to this Sun Micro online game: http://howmachineswork.com/sun/templeofthesun/?source=outsert There are cash prizes and some downloads related to Solaris and Sun Studio here also. Have fun--games are not my cup o' tea. Cheers, Chuck

18 years

VCP200 chip available

by nanobot＠verizon.net

Hello, I think it is too late since this message looks old, But do you still have the VCP200 chip ? I thought I would ask. Thanks Scott

18 years

Vax 11/750 power supply questions

by ian_primus＠yahoo.com

Well, thanks to the advice of a knowledgeable Lowe's employee and a sheet of 3/4" plywood, I was able to move my Vax 11/750, by myself, from the garage into the basement. Initially, when I first unloaded the Vax >from the van, I removed the power supplies to make the machine lighter. I labeled the wires with masking tape, so as to get everything back correctly. I have cleaned and reassembled the power supply section save for one connector. It's a 20 pin ribbon cable that plugs into the top of the power controller, coming >from the 2.5v PSU. This connector is not keyed, and I don't know which direction it should go - unfortunately the way the cable is folded it could really go either way. So, those of you that own a Vax 11/750 - which side should be pin 1? Also, on each power supply, there is a three position toggle switch - Lo, Norm and Hi. What is this for? Similarly, I currently have the battery backup unit removed. It's obviously going to be totally shot - the sticker indicates the batteries were last changed in 1984. This isn't needed for the machine to work, correct? I'm not talking about the Time Of Year battery, I'm talking about the box mounted on the front left side, it has a couple lead acid battery packs in it - not enough to run the computer, I would think - did this just keep the memory alive? What's the pinout of the console port? Anything special, or should a null modem cable be all I need to connect a terminal? Thanks! -Ian

18 years

Looking for datasheet

by wbblair3＠yahoo.com

I can't find a datasheet for the Texas Instruments SN74ACT8832AGB 32bit Bit-Slice Processor anywhere on-line and virtually no information about it. I'd appreciate it if anyone with information about it or access to a datasheet on it would let me know. Best regards, Bill B. ____________________________________________________________________________________Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV. http://tv.yahoo.com/

18 years

Complete success, OS/8 is up and running :)

by charlesmorris＠hughes.net

I am pleased to report a complete success with my 8/A,VTserver via 11/23+,RL02,OS-8 conglomeration. I think it's the *only* time that any project (with that many places for possible screwups) has worked for me on the first try :) As I had reported earlier, I managed to get *something* written onto an RL02 pack using VTserver to talk to my 11/23+. But when I put the pack in the 8/A's RL02, for some reason it wouldn't go Ready initially. After powering down the system and drive, removing the pack, reinserting, etc. then it did light the Ready light. No weird noises either. That was a relief. I had to do a little rewiring of the console port cable since I'd previously set it up for RS232 and I wanted to use an "authentic" ASR33 for the console with 20 ma current loop. I entered a short test program to read the keyboard and echo to the printer. That worked. So far so good, the 8/A is still alive after sitting for a year or more. Then I had to dig out the manual for the 8/A to figure out how to boot it from an RL02... OK, the boot ROM takes care of the addressing, just push the "BOOT" key. Not too hard :) SO I did that - the RL02 gently clucked and the Ready light flickered, and I heard one character print on the TTY across the room. I rushed over and peered at the canary-yellow paper while holding my breath (doing so helps 30 year old hardware and software work better) and lo and behold... a single "." Yee ha! I think it's up! I hopefully typed "DIR" and hit the return - and there came the directory of my disk image, just like on SIMH except with all the noise and oily scent of a Teletype. :) :) :) -Charles

18 years

PDP-12 MAINDEC Listing?

by ohh＠drizzle.com

Hey, all: Does someone have, or know of, an online PDF of DEC's "PDP-12 Tape Control Test" (parts 1 and 2) MAINDEC manuals? I've got a PDP-12 which I've gradually been breathing the life back into, and so far it's gone very well... but then I got to the LINCtape control and drives, which are acting like they're _trying_ to do useful things but aren't, and frankly I need to learn more to figure out what the heck is going on in there. MAINDEC listings are usually pretty helpful for that. :) Thanks! -O.-

18 years

SVD Update

by btt＠hughes.net

Hello, I just built one of these devices. It appears to work, but I cannot write any information to the virtual disk on an apple //e. I'm guessing thats because I need the version 2.4 of the firmware. Any idea where I can get this, or what could be wrong? Thanks, Brian Ties

18 years

Commodore 64 question

by bmachacek＠pcisys.net

I was just able to pick up 2 Commodore 64 units. One has monitor (1701) and disk drive (1541) and works fine. The other Commodore (computer portion only) has the Power light come on, but that's about it. It does not even cause the monitor screen to be active. My question is, is there possibly a simple solution as to why the C64 is not working? I have not opened it up yet, and I'm not a real "techie", but I could do some simple internal checks if I knew what to look for. Thanks for any help anyone may be able to give me. Bill Machacek

18 years

C.Itoh Keyboard repair (was CiTOH terminals (was Re: Well, now I've gone and done it..., Dragged home more big(ish) iron...))

by jzg22＠drexel.edu

I've actually fixed one of the CIT-220+ keyboards. It's *not* a job for the faint of heart. It requires desoldering all 130-odd keys (this REQUIRES a GOOD $250 desoldering iron, lacking this I paid someone $60 to do it for me), prying each key apart with two sewing-pins, pulling the contact out and scouring out the crap in between the little contact pads using a pin, and bending the sensor-push plate/spring back into an L shape so the key gets good sensitivity. The keyboard I had required this because someone at my university had spilled something (milk perhaps?) into it and it wicked up into about half the keys and got between the metal sensor plates. (The metal sensor plates are the C.Itoh cheap alternative to any DECENT type of keyboard key mechanism such as one the IBM model M clicky keyboard used. I also strongly suspect the real DEC vt-220 and vt-330 used better technology but I've never seen a real DEC one. :( ) I'm on the lookout for a C.Itoh CIT-220+ manual or a real DEC vt-330 (plus KB) since I have the manual for a vt-330 and it looks far superior to the CIT-220+. I've also dumped all the ROMs from the CIT-220+ if anyone wants/needs a copy. (IIRC it uses an 8085 plus two GFX chips plus RAM plus EEPROM plus a bunch of logic chips in the main unit, and an 8032 or 8048 in the keyboard.) I could also scan the VT-330 manual if needed, though it will take a while. Jonathan Gevaryahu jzg22 at drexel.edu

18 years

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test-drb May 2007