Build Your Own Vintage Computer Replica!
Briel Computers Replica 1 SE Workshop
at the Vintage Computer Festival
November 4, 2006, 10:00pm
The VCF is proud to present yet another Build-It-Yourself experience
at VCF 9.0 this November 4. The Build-It-Yourself workshops are a
great introduction for those interested in learning the art of
computers, programming and electronics, giving them first-hand
experience building and programming their own hardware under the
direction of leading engineers.
In this workshop participants will build the Briel Computers replica 1
SE. The replica 1 is a functional clone of the famous Apple 1, the
computer designed by Steve Wozniak (Woz) and upon which Apple Computer
was founded. It was featured in Wired Magazine's Cult of Mac section
and in the book "Apple 1 Replica Creation" by Tom Owad. The replica 1
SE contains many of the original components of the Apple 1 including
the 6502 CPU and the 6821 PIA.
This workshop will cover the complete assembly of this fun to build
8-bit computer. Some soldering experience is expected but a special,
nearly assembled version will be available upon prior request for
participants with no soldering experience. This workshop is limited
to ten participants, so personal assistance from the instructor will
be available throughout the session.
BONUS: Get your board signed by Woz himself, who will be participating
in the Apple 30th year anniversary celebration at the VCF on Saturday,
This workshop will be conducted by Vince Briel, a computer engineer
>from Ohio. Vince is the designer of the Replica 1 and has over 20
years of hardware design experience. Vince manages large computer
networks and spends most of his spare time designing new hardware
Pre-Requisites and Tools
The completed replica 1 kit requires only a power supply, PS/2 type
keyboard and a monitor or television with composite video inputs. A
monitor will be available in the workshop lab for testing built kits
once they've been assembled. Participants should bring a soldering
iron and solder, wire cutters, and needle-nose pliers.
Participants with previous soldering experience will find this kit
relatively simply to complete. For those with little or no soldering
experience, a mostly assembled version is available at no extra charge
upon request when registering.
The entire workshop will run for approximately two hours.
The fee for this workshop is $149.00 (a savings of $10 off the normal
kit price), which includes the replica 1 SE kit. To reserve a spot,
go to the weblink provided below and follow the payment instructions
(via PayPal). Fees should be paid in advance of the course, although
walk-in participants on the day of the workshop will be welcomed.
Inquiries regarding this workshop should be directed by e-mail to
<workshop at vintage.org>.
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
[ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ]
[ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org ]
just curious if anyone here knows much about slotted imac g3's hardware
probably doesn't pass the apocryphal "10 year rule" but it just might.
(that's a joke. no flames about the existance or non-existance of the any
rule, real or imagined)
Anyway, I've found a few "slotted" g3 imacs with dead power supplies. There
are some web sites which talk about case conversions but they all refer to
the older, earlier imacs. One talks about the slotted g3's but its in french
and doesnt' speak to my issue (it's a nice site, however - merci!)
I pulled the logic board out of the case and I want to power it. It
looks like the PAV (the big power supply for the crt) provides 24VAC to
the main board and there is a switcher glued on to the logic board which
makes the +5,3.3, etc.. It's just that the wires which seem to feed the
24VAC seen very small. They do lead (across the entire pcb) to the
switcher connector and those seem to lead to a transformer, so I think
I'm on the right track.
So, I'm looking for confirmation - is the logic board on a slotted imac
g3 powered by 24VAC to a local switcher and are those 4 wimpy little
wires supplying the ac? the French site labels them "24VAC phase 1" and
"24VAC phase 2".
No sense replacing the switcher if it works.
I thought I'd find a clear box for the motherboard and my kids would
oh, and if anyone has a "marathon irack dv" box they don't want contact
me via email.
by any chance does anyone use this method, and would
be willing to small *even* number of sheets? The one
place I know of that sells it has a $50 minimum order
(Halted). Or maybe someone knows of a place with fewer restrictions.
Do You Yahoo!?
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In a message dated 10/3/2006 11:48:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
spectre at floodgap.com writes:
> > In another group, some have suggested electrolysis methods. I've not tried
> > it but they talk about hanging the piece in a stainless tub and applying
> > current to it. I don't recall what they suggested for elecrolyte but I
> > suspect it isn't critical. Most anything that doesn't plate out of
> > solution should work.
> The old tool collectors typically use a solution of washing soda (sodium
> carbonate) or lye (sodium hydroxide). I've done it myself--just use a
> battery charger and a steel bucket, immerse the cruddy item in the hot
> solution and turn on the current. For those old rust-encrusted items, it
> works really well right down to the otherwise unreachable crevices.
Stupid question -- what would be the anode and cathode in that case? I'm
sure this is an obvious thing but I don't have a lot of experience with this.
--------------------------------- personal: http://www.armory.com/~spectre/
I've used this electrolysis method myself and works great. I've got an
article about it on my website. You don't want to use a metal container. A plastic
trash can or storage tub works great. I use a scrap of stainless steel for the
anode. The bigger the anode, the faster the reaction is. It's totally safe on
the part you are derusting. It removes all paint too. I use crystal drain
cleaner to make the solution. Use scrap wire to connect the battery charger to the
anode/part because they will corrode quickly. Make sure to have good
circulation too. Hydrogen gas is produced. When you take the part ouf, it will have a
black residue on it. Be sure to scrub it ALL off otherwise if you paint the
part, it may rust again. Better yet, use a pressure washer if possible. There
should not be any black residue in the pores of the metal object.
>Subject: Re: VCF Build-It-Yourself Workshops
> From: David Betz <dbetz at xlisper.com>
> Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 21:25:55 -0400
> To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts" <cctalk at classiccmp.org>
>> On 10/2/2006 at 2:43 PM David Betz wrote:
>>> I would *love* to assemble an FPGA kit that allowed me to experiment
>>> with various classic architectures (and maybe some modern ones!).
>>> Sign me up if you decide to have one!
>> Golly, folks have been doing this for quite awhile. The XESS kits
>> seem to
>> be very popular. There was/is even a fellow who was offering a
>> pin-compatible Z80 replacement implemented in FPGA.
>Yes, I know people have been doing it for a while. I was thinking
>that you were suggesting a built-it-yourself session where
>participants would learn how to do it themselves. I'm a software guy
>and could easily write a software emulator but have less experience
>with doing hardware design. I'd love some pointers on how to
>implement a CPU in an FPGA.
FPGA and hardware are not exactly the same thing. FPGA you implement
logic using software tools to compile and test not unlike writing software.
Where working with random logic (gates and flops) you have to deal with
all of the physical characteristics such as fanout, propagation delays,
signal distortion and power distribution.
There re a number of sites on the net for FPGA experimentors. Start with
PISC is pitiful Instruction Set Computer, instructional.
This page and links (web ring) from it are loaded with both random logic
implementations and FPGA designs for homebrewed CPUs both unique and classic.
> >Odd, for many years I used Naval Jelly to clean rust off cans in my beer
> >can collection. I never once saw it take any paint off, and I used it on
> >pretty fragile old cans. It worked wonderfully without messing up the
> I'm sure it did. But Naval Jelly is a very old product and not very safe.
> There are better, safer, preparations.
Safe is totally in the hands of the user. Cyanide is used in gold plating and is
quite safe assuming stupidity is not part of the equation (i.e. let's see what
it tastes like.) Navel Jelly does a great job of disolving the rust, and that is
what it was intended for. Before using though, I wire brush off the heavy rust
deposits and use navel jelly sparingly as the next to final step ... the final
step is cleaning :).
Yup, the one someone pointed out on ebay is exactly the one that I got
recently (except mine has dual floppies and a hard drive).
Note that the auction on ebay does not include the monitor (and the Wang
monitor is proprietary). So if anyone here does win that auction, I know
where a monitor and cable can be obtained pretty cheap, but only for a short
while. The local surplus guy tends to pitch things that don't sell after a
>Subject: Re: VCF Build-It-Yourself Workshops
> From: "Chuck Guzis" <cclist at sydex.com>
> Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 15:31:28 -0700
> To: cctalk at classiccmp.org
>On 10/2/2006 at 2:43 PM David Betz wrote:
>>I would *love* to assemble an FPGA kit that allowed me to experiment
>>with various classic architectures (and maybe some modern ones!).
>>Sign me up if you decide to have one!
>Golly, folks have been doing this for quite awhile. The XESS kits seem to
>be very popular. There was/is even a fellow who was offering a
>pin-compatible Z80 replacement implemented in FPGA.
>Here's one of the lists I've found:
>What's not really clear to me is what the practical difference is between
>implementing a classic CPU in FPGA and writing an emulator for on to run on
That depends on many things. An emulator for a PC might be a microprogrammed
archetecture for a PDP-5 which is a sequential logic machine. With real logic
you have to deal with mudane and annoying things like two registers accessing
a single bus. From my point of view doing a classic in FLGA is convenient
as your not tied ot a PC but it's still more of a software exercise than real
>As someone on the list has mentioned, it's really the old peripherals that
>are the interesting bit.
That because you have to interact with the physical world. Often that requires
much more than a bit of logic to fly.