This might be a good one for the KB/FAQ (can't remember how to get in, though- no links on the home page)
What should be done to keep older drives, especially sealed Winchester-types, happy? I've been spinning up mine every once and a while, but is there anything else?
-Scott Quinn
I went down and wound up walking out with the IRIS. It has keyboard, buttons, monitor, cables and appears complete (including Winchester), but is not a 3120, and under intensive interrogation we obtained a signed confession to this and many other unsolved crimes.
It's a 2000 of some sort, but in a 3120 case and with a 3000 series keyboard. I'm not sure what the provenance is (some gunk on in, pretty clean and no beasties lurking), or whether the drive is set up fora Turbo 2k/3k system or a 2k (or nothing). ST-506 full-ht. drive but haven't gotten that far inside it yet.
It's loaded with bitplanes (8x BP3 boards), but 2 of them do not have the blue interconnect cable attached. Is this correct (are there any members skilled in IRIS lore?)
Hi, gang,
Got a couple of 3M telecom test sets (965TD's) that need some cosmetic help. No, they're not off-topic. First, they both use an embedded DOS-based computer, and second they're both over ten years old.
Anyway... The outer housing is made of (I think) high-density polyethylene, the same stuff that the outer jacket of telephone cables is made from, molded in bright glossy yellow. At least it was bright and glossy when new. As one might imagine would happen with field craft instruments, these have been dinged and marred pretty badly.
My question is: What's the best way to restore them? I've tried simple plastic cleaner/polish, and it helped a bit, but the scarring is still there. What I'd like to do, ideally, is take enough of the outer layer off to smooth things down, and then polish it up so that they look new.
With that in mind: Anyone know a good way to recondition HDPE?
Thanks much.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Bruce Lane, Owner & Head Hardware Heavy,
Blue Feather Technologies -- http://www.bluefeathertech.com
kyrrin (at) bluefeathertech do/t c=o=m
"If Salvador Dali had owned a computer, would it have been equipped with surreal ports?"
At 11:47 AM 9/23/05 -0700, you wrote:
>
>>>>>OK, what is "stuph"? This is the second message that I've seen from
you using that term.
>>>>
>>>>Say it out loud. :)
>>>
>>>I know what it sounds like. I was trying to be tackful but I guess I'll
just go ahead and say what I was thinking. It makes the original poster
look lazy/immature/ignorant or possible all three. It's not just his
repeated use of the (non)word "stuph" but also his grammer, lack of
punctuation and capitalization as well as other distorted spellings.
>
>Irony abounds.
>
>The word you meant is "tactful." Unless, of course, you meant lots of
horse harnesses.
Like Zane said, my spelling is lousy but I at least make an attempt.
Joe
>
>Subject: Re: Quest for DEC LPS-40 Documentation
> From: "John C. Ellingboe" <john at guntersville.net>
> Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 19:43:04 -0500
> To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts <cctalk at classiccmp.org>
>
>I'm not all that interested in the postscript books except it
>would be nice to have a full set of applicable docs. The
>service repair guide is the main one that I need to locate. The
>host installation and management guides are probably superseded
>by the newer software provided with the layered products for VMS
>7.x so they aren't quite as important. The client installation
>and management guides could contain information that is hardware
>specific and would be useful.
I have the red green and blue AW postscript books. They were
bought under DEC cost center when I began that project. Still
refer to them.
There were a few of the DOCs on system as help files and readable
docs in bookreader format. I'm sure some made it to CD. Also
the LPS20 used the same host system software package with the
difference for the load image for the printer. The LPS40, 20
and later 32 used a MOP loaded system image for the printer
which was uVAX based.
>Since I have never had the privilege to install and set up one
>of these printers I would rather have plenty of information. I
>also don't try to maintain a strict museum quality collection
>but I do like to obtain the applicable documents to go with the
>equipment that I have.
Likely I still remember all of it. I've trained the FS trainers
and at one time could rip a LPS40 down the bones and reassemble
it. Still have part of the IGRP and HeNe laser from the print
engine. My MVII is really an ex MV from an LPS40.
I spent from 1983 to 1990 as part of that project along with LN01S
LA75, LN03 and a few other printing bits.
Allison
>
>Subject: Re: State of the art -radio
> From: woodelf <bfranchuk at jetnet.ab.ca>
> Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 00:25:05 -0600
> To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts <cctalk at classiccmp.org>
>
>Well add another Crystal -- Filter that is -- :)
>I agree that DSP is great for brick wall filters but you might want
>to check up on Crystal Sets on the internet because I read a
>few people saying that the design of the radios in the past
>are based on incorrect theory.
Still wouldn't help. there are limits, Good, Fast, Cheap, Pick any two.
>> Non-linearity it's bad design for some things but useful where
>> efficientcy counts. Look at Class E trannsmitters and switchmode
>> power supplies for efficientcy.
>
>That is only because you need a sine wave out of the transmiter
>something that is easy to restore with a tuned circuit. You had better
>not look at what I consider a state of the art HI-Fi amp to be, the
>one I built from plans I found on the web. A whole 1.25? watts RMS
>per channel. I consider it state of the art because 1) It has a
>regulated power supply ( Zener diode - 800 volt 6.5 amp FET pass
>tranistor ) 2) Single ended ultra-linear ( 50%) operation.
>A 6SL7 driver and 6V6GT for the power amp.
State of the art in 1969. Pushpull Triode connected 813s, negative
feedback to cathode, Zener bias regulation, stiff 1200V ps. Oh
flat from 15hz to 20khz -3db to 25khz at a mere 300w. THD was
down in the sub 0.05% range. Only weighed in at 80 pounds.
In 1974 I worked on a 1KW solidstate that was 40 pounds and could
easily beat the specs and overall sound of those 813s and stand
shorts or overloads better!
>> What you should check out is Softrock, uses the soundard and CPU
>> to do the back end stuff and it's frontend is a 29$ kit.
>>
>> www.amqrp.org/kits/softrock40/index.html (it's sold out but the
>> details are there).
>>
>
>But is it open source? I don't like CLOSED equipment or ideas.
Did you look, you would not have asked then.
>
>Some day I might want to break the glass and look inside.
>Still if you have the PC it a good use for it, since it
>too new to be a classic computer. :)
Maybe, today. Then again I was working with 16bit DSP
back in '81.
Allison
Picked up the main unit (with a 68030 upgrade, 4 meg ram, external SCSI
drive) at a local self-store sale.
If anyone has a keyboard for these that they're willing to part with let me
know.
I am willing to pay for it (just not a lot ;-)
Shipping would be to New Jersey, USA.
Kelly
Does anyone on the list know of online documentation or have the
paper versions for the following docs. So far all I have found
online was a list of docs on bitsavers and other locations but
they didn't show a location for these.
Printserver 40 Service Repair Guide EK-LPS40-SV
VAX/VMS Installation Guide:
Printserver 40 Client AA-HL83A-TE
VAX/VMS Installation Guide:
Printserver 40 Supporting Host AA-HL90A-TE
VAX/VMS Management/Users Guide:
Printserver 40 Client AA-FP19A-TE
VAX/VMS Management Guide:
Printserver 40 Supporting Host AA-FP24A-TE
Also the following related documentation would be nice to have
but not all that necessary.
Postscript Language Tutorial
and Cookbook AA-HL86A-TE
Postscript Language Reference Manual AA-HL87A-TE
Printservet 40 Programmer's
Supplement AA-HL84A-TE
Postscript Transilators Reference
Manual AA-HL85A-TE
Thanks in advance
John
I just got around to checking out a pretty clean HP-85 I picked up at
auction last month. So far it powers up and runs a simple basic program
I typed in.
I haven't checked out the cassette, although it doesn't look too bad
either. The only real issue so far is a sticking keyboard.
Before I crack the case and check it out, are there any pointers on
fixing the sticky keys, any caveats.
Cheers
Tom
> Paypal just blasted me warning that "my" paypal account is closed!
> What? Closing a pretend account? I don't open paypal with them, for
> that reason of this idiocity. I still have this silly "scary" email
> from paypal for anyone to check.
That E-Mail did not come from Pay-Pal. This was a "phishing" attack. The
E-mail is completely phony, from a 3rd party who is trying to get your
Pay-Pal user ID and password. If you click on the link (supposedly a link
to pay-pal), you will go to a completely phony web site that looks EXACTLY
like the real Pay-Pal site, and when you attempt to "log-in", you will have
given your Pay-Pal user ID and password to a thief, who will then use it to
access your real Pay-Pal site and clean you out, possibly to the tune of
thousands, tens of thousands or even hundreds of thousands of dollars.
Anyone who is "on the net" will get these "notices" from Pay-Pal, E-Bay and
dozens of banks (with which they may not even have accounts). They are
phony, and they do not actually come from the institutions. You ***MUST***
be aware of this and learn to understand that ALL of these a fraudulent
attempts to commit theft of your identity. If you ever fall for even just
one of these, you will be paying for and going through a living hell for a
LONG time, perhaps years.
The bottom line here is that if you get an E-Mail from an institution with a
link, you just have to assume it's phony. If you are not sure, do not use
the link, but rather long into the site's HOME PAGE (not the link) manually,
and see if there seems to be a problem.