I've recently started to play with the PDP-8 using the excellent SIMH
emulator and I've come across a problem: none of the PDP-8 OS/8 disk
images that I've found seem to allow me to use DECtapes. As all the
games I've found (mostly smallish BASIC programs) seem to come on
DECtape/DECtape images. Does anybody know where to find a disk with
proper drivers. I tried to rebuild the OS, but BUILD couldn't find the
proper drivers either.
Actually, I have my doubts as to whether BASIC even works, as it seems
to not even want to run the little
10 PRINT "HELLO WORLD."
20 END
example that I cooked up.
>
>Subject: Re: 8008?
> From: woodelf <bfranchuk at jetnet.ab.ca>
> Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 12:53:24 -0700
> To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts <cctalk at classiccmp.org>
>
>Chuck Guzis wrote:
>
>>So what's an 8008 chip worth? I've got one that I don't need. I'll
>>entertain reasonable offers.
>>
>>Cheers,
>>Chuck
>>
>>
>Well what does the buyer need it for? Most people here want it blinking
>lights not collecting dust. In 1975 a candy bar was about 15 cents,
>today it is
>a $1.00 That is a about a 6:1 price change , so a $60 8008 could be up
>to $360 for a fair market price today, how ever many people are use too
>-- it is outdated
>so carry it away for $1. Myself would not pay more than $100 considering
>how easy it is possable to damage it.
Damage it?? Those 10u PMOS devices are far more resiliant than current
parts.
Allison
>
>Subject: 8008?
> From: "Chuck Guzis" <cclist at sydex.com>
> Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 11:34:22 -0800
> To: cctalk at classiccmp.org
>
>So what's an 8008 chip worth? I've got one that I don't need. I'll
>entertain reasonable offers.
>
>Cheers,
>Chuck
Last time I bought one they were $180 for the 10uS (-1) part. Thats was
November of 1973. ;)
By summer of 1976 that was down to $19.95.
They are worth what people will pay now.
Allison
Well, I was working on my 11/34 last night, and I noticed when I flipped it
on its side that the power regulator H745 does not have its red light on.
Does that mean the other two H744s are problematic, or does it mean that the
H745 is the problem, or is this all normal?
Opinions please! :)
Thanks
Julian
From: "John Allain" <allain at panix.com>
>>>>>>>>>So given the choice, what lighting *is* good?
>>>>
>>>>
>
>Natural white seems to be worse in traditional fluorescents, but newer
>corrected bulbs are available.
>
>Expensive stores and some art galleries like to use high temperature point
>sources, like 12V50w reflector lamps. They may be among the whitest, and
>can be used either in quantity for an almost daylight look, or sparingly, to
>allow the blinkenlights to be prominent.
>
For many requirements like this (aquariums, hydroponics, etc), the lighting of choice is high-Kelvin Metal-Halide lighting. With bulbs over 150W, you can get 10,000 K bulbs, and at 175W and above, you can get 14,000 K. Bulbs go to 1000W and more. All of these are very bright & very, very blue-white.
If you are more interested in "natural Sun-like" spectrum, there are numerous choices in VHO florescent bulbs, again in the aquarium & hydroponics world. These are *totally* different than the florescent bulbs you get at the local hardware store.
Pretty much anything you get at, say, Home Depot, even the "aquarium bulbs" or "grow bulbs", will be noticeably inferior from a spectrum perspective. Stick to the hydroponic or aquarium stores.
Ken
Visual Computer Inc. made the "Commuter" (model 1083), and this was
a portable with an LCD display.
Visual Technology, Inc. is a different computer company, and they
made a model called the 1050.
-Bill
>This Company's products are also scarce on the web - maybe they
were just
>"another clone" (although luggable). A year or so ago I located
a prior
>employee who gave some background, including that he might still have
>the schematics. They were made 1984-86.
>
>I've had no interest in the Visual 1083 I want to place, but I'm
hoping
>a touch of off-brand discussion might change that.
>
-- E N D --
I've got an incomplete collection of 77-82 Kilobauds; what are you
looking for?
Also, someone was looking for the R-E 68000 articles; if you didn't
find what you needed on the Web, any idea which issues they were in?
mike
-------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 19:39:18 -0800
From: "Chuck Guzis" <cclist at sydex.com>
...Speaking of old stuff, who still has a library of Kilobaud from around
1976-1979 to research an article?
Cheers,
Chuck
>From: "Allison" <ajp166 at bellatlantic.net>
>
>>
>>Subject: removing parts from PCBs
>> From: compoobah at valleyimplants.com
>> Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2005 20:31:31 -0600
>> To: <cctalk at classiccmp.org>
>>
>>I've seen several references to using torches to remove DIPs from PCBs. Are
there any specific things to keep in mind to avoid heat damage? Are you talking
propane plumber's blowtorches?
>
>Dang, thats one long line!
>
>Yes, work fast.
>
>Myself I torch the bottom and use a spring loaded chip extractor.
>That and a pliers or tiny screwdriver to straighten any bent
>pins keeping it in the board.
>
>Success rate to date is 99% (board was known bad before salvage).
>
>Allison
Hi
I've used peanut oil and a fry pan. Then wash the
parts in detergent to remove the oil. You need to wear
gloves and goggles as safety gear. Hot peanut oil
in your eye is not something I'd like to even think about.
Make sure that the assembler didn't bend the corner leads
of the ICs. If they did, you'll need to straighten them
before the oil, using a soldering iron.
It just seems to me that the oil method is a little more
controlled than a torch.
Dwight
A much better alternative to peanut oil is fusing or reflow oil used in
the printed circuit industry (used most probably in the smaller shops.)
It runs $84.30/gallon according to information on the DalPro website.
While they seem to have the supplies necessary to make PCBs, their
prices are ... high. I would try a local printed circuit manufacturer to
see if I could get some their first. My guess is that it shouldn't be
more than about $8.00/gallon.
http://www.dalpro.net/Page.html
BTW, peanut oil used to be used for reflow many many moons ago and was
replaced at least 25 years ago with synthetic oils.
> On 11/14/2005 at 9:32 AM Dwight K. Elvey wrote:
>
> > I've used peanut oil and a fry pan. Then wash the
> >parts in detergent to remove the oil. You need to wear
> >gloves and goggles as safety gear. Hot peanut oil
> >in your eye is not something I'd like to even think about.
> > Make sure that the assembler didn't bend the corner leads
> >of the ICs. If they did, you'll need to straighten them
> >before the oil, using a soldering iron.
> > It just seems to me that the oil method is a little more
> >controlled than a torch.
>
> That's downright scary--oil fires are nasty. And burns from oil that hot
> (I've had them from cooking) take a long time to heal.
> Is synthetic automotive oil flammable at desoldering temperatures?
>
> Cheers,
> Chuck
