> The TI would definitely be worth saving and restoring.
There is a fair amount of documentation on them on bitsavers.
What is lacking is software. Any TI OS distributions would be
a great thing to get archived.
They are 16 bit accumulator-style minis (as opposed to the
registers-in-memory arch of the 990)
--al (who has a 980A and disk ctlr, but no software)
The TI would definitely be worth saving and restoring. If no one else
wants it I would take it for sure. This is my first contact with this
group. For the people who know me, the IBM 1130 has been picked up in
Austria and should arrive by ship around Nov 10. Bob Message: 21 Date:
Tue, 04 Oct 2005 22:11:09 -0600 From: Tim Riker <Tim at Rikers.org>
Subject: Re: Texas Instruments 980A minicomputer?? To: General
Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts <cctalk at classiccmp.org>
Message-ID: <4343525D.5020103 at Rikers.org> Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=us-ascii steven stengel wrote:
>> Hmmm,
>>
>> Someone has a Texas Instrument 980A Computer, with two
>> Diablo Series 30 Hard Drives, circa 1972, to offer. Do
>> I want it??
>
>
Wow. 2 in one day? Sure.
I can find you someone that'll want it.
I saw one in salvage a while back, but it was gutted so I didn't grab it.
Just a quick note concerning the ongoing re-implementation of Q-Link:
We publicly unveiled the project at the Fall SWRAP EXPO in Chicago. The
demo went well, with many trying the service for the first time in 11
years or more.
Prior to the EXPO, as noted in some places, we moved the server to a
commercial hosting facility. Mark Ponter and associates of Legend Tech
gave us space and bandwidth on their OC-3 connected co-located servers.
Following EXPO, I took a breather, and then started the next push,
preparinng the rest of the system for the November 5, 2005 20th
Anniversary.
Work has now shifted from functionality to beefing up the
infrastructure. Code cleanup, refactoring, etc.
Last week, I added support for multiple screen names on an account (up
to 5), and also added a questionaire to obtain City and State (and
Country) information from users, to populate the "IDENTIFY" menu item in
Q-Link PEOPLE CONNECTION. I also added a feature to allow changing uer
names on the fly without logging out of the service (something Q-Link
had originally, but was removed throughout much of the original
service's lifetime.)
This week, I am cleaning up the PEOPLE CONNECTION (chat) codebase,
trying to squash a last remaining bug or two. I am also working on a
new feature to be hopefully unveiled this weekend.
Most of the base service is functional, with the exception of uploads
(just need time to implement), Having the system pick partners for
PEOPLE CONNECTION games,(not exactly sure how this worked, what the
dialogs said, etc. Anyone who has information, email me please), and the
Box Office (never worked in the real Q-Link either, but still...
Mainly, the menu items and message bases need to be cleaned up and
fleshed out.
Along the way, word was received on some of the Q-Link mailing lists,
and a number of "classic" Q-Linkers have arrived back on the system (Sir
Fitz, DonnaS4, KsLass, SkyLine, and the owner of Bonnie's Bar, BonnieB3,
to name a few). The stories they tell of the original service are
worthy of a book (Qmoms, QDads, QMarriages, Qfamilies, Qbrothers,
Qsisters, the QBashes, etc.).
On a further note, as part of the 20th Anniversary festivities, the
system/service will be demonstrated by the reverse engineer guru
himself, Keith Henrickson, at the Vintage Computer Festival on November
5th and 6th in Mountain View, CA. (http://www.vintage.org/2005/main/)
I hope you can either attend the festival or log on during that time.
We're lining up prizes and other fun activites for the anniversary.
A couple weekly items have started already. Dark Vulcan has started
weekly TRIVIA games in the PEOPLE CONNECTION TRIVIA room on Tuesday
nights @8Central, and DonnaS4 has a ORPHANS room on Thursday nights for
the returning Q-Linkers.
We even have a 2 minute video "trailer" that Fixxer made. He is working
on fleshing it out and making another. Very impressive. We'll post
when they are ready.
More help is always appreciated. If you have memories, would like to
help in development, or just want to staff a room, please contact us.
More information is at: www.quantum-link.org
--
Jim Brain, Brain Innovations
brain at jbrain.comhttp://www.jbrain.com
Dabbling in WWW, Embedded Systems, Old CBM computers, and Good Times!
> From your description, it already sounds like I need to
> start shopping for a bench grinder.
A grinder is way too fast for polishing plastic (unless you mind divots
and burns). Though it would be hand-held, you might want to try a buffer
first (much slower).
>> Looking for the CP/M boot disk and related software for
>> the original Furguson BigBoard ... Guy I got mine from
>> last year has been looking, but so far has come up dry on
>> the disks for it (thinks they must have been tossed).
>>
>> Can anyone provide me with images? (which I will of course
>> make available in the archive as well).
>Cool! (somebody send it to him, I need the above too).
>
>I have full schematics and docs with mine, in case you didn't get that
>perhaps I should digitize and upload it.
>
>Mine *might* need a BIOS chip. It came from Honeywell in St. Paul,
>where they had targeted it at some embedded controller operation where
>they had it running a custom BIOS with their code. I got a BIOS image
>from someone but thus far STILL haven't powered it up with the
>replacement BIOS.
I do have the schematics and docs. Mine has a BIOS chip, although I believe
it was slightly modified for a different terminal (still trying to get the
details) It was a working CP/M system when it was taken out of service -
The guy is looking for the original BIOS ROM which he thinks he still has
(but it might be with the disks). I also have a full set of Micro Cornucopia,
and some of the articals provide useful information - let me know if you
are looking for any details in particular.
I know the BB is very similar to the Xerox 820 ... I have a working 820-II
with system disks ... does anyone know if these might be compatible? I also
know where there is an 820 (original version) close by, but I don't know if
he has disks for it...
If anyone has the original BB disks, I would very much like to obtain an
image of them.
Regards,
Dave
--
dave04a (at) Dave Dunfield
dunfield (dot) Firmware development services & tools: www.dunfield.com
com Collector of vintage computing equipment:
http://www.parse.com/~ddunfield/museum/index.html
Looking for the CP/M boot disk and related software for
the original Furguson BigBoard ... Guy I got mine from
last year has been looking, but so far has come up dry on
the disks for it (thinks they must have been tossed).
Can anyone provide me with images? (which I will of course
make available in the archive as well).
Regards,
Dave
--
dave04a (at) Dave Dunfield
dunfield (dot) Firmware development services & tools: www.dunfield.com
com Collector of vintage computing equipment:
http://www.parse.com/~ddunfield/museum/index.html
Sridhar wrote:
>>Dan Williams wrote:
>>>Sridhar wrote:
>>>I live in Morse's hometown. 8-)
>> Oxford ?
>Later in life.
Are we entirely sure we're both talking about
the same Morse :-) I think Dan might be alluding
to Colin Dexter's creation rather than the
failed painter.
Antonio
-----------------------------------------
Email sent from www.ntlworld.com
Virus-checked using McAfee(R) Software
Visit www.ntlworld.com/security for more information
>
>Subject: Re: Tony's kit, was: Re: USB Stuff
> From: Sridhar Ayengar <ploopster at gmail.com>
> Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2005 19:45:19 -0400
> To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts <cctalk at classiccmp.org>
>
>Cameron Kaiser wrote:
>>>>Actually it doesn't. I am looking at a monochrome green screen at the
>>>>moment. OK, I do have colour monitors around here....
>>>
>>>I know I've asked this before but I don't recall the answer. What
>>>exactly *do* you use to connect to the Internet?
>>
>>
>> Smoke signals. Checksum's a pain, though.
>
>Hmmm... Encrypted IP over smoke signals. Do I feel an RFC coming on?
>
>Peace... Sridhar
IP over Morse (CW) nearest to smoke but, still electronic!
I think I'll run for cover.. NOW.
Allison
Anyone in the Toronto area interested in a late model Cromemco or two?
300/400/420s I think, some manuals & spare cards also available, almost
free. Can find out more detail if anyone's interested.
Pickup only within next two weeks or so; contact me off-list.
mike
I picked this up a while back but just got around to checking it today.
It looks brand new!! The power cord has never been unfolded or had it's tie
strap cut off and the paper for the printer is still sealed in heat shrink
plastic. The case, CRT and keyboard are all immaculate and the plastic is
nice and white not faded to a dirty yellow/brown. The only flaw that I
could find is that something caused the carrying case to rub on the bottom
of the case and it wore away some of the paint on the bottom of the
computer. It even has both manuals with it. BUT all of the original disks
are missing. Does anyone have copies of the disks for this thing? I'd LIKE
to have originals but I'll settle for copies. I did boot it today with a PC
DOS 3.1 disk and it worked flawlessly. It has been upgraded to 512k and a
second 360k drive has been added.
Joe
>> Work out the force on the faceplate due to air pressure (which
>> you can assume is 14 pounds per square inch). It's pretty large
>> for TV-sized CRTs!
> Several tonnes even on little ones 14"-20", even MORE on 36" CRT.
Just over 1200lbs for a 14" and just _under_ 4T for a 36"
Lee.
.
___________________________________________________________
To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com
> All I know is NOT to throw the PCB in the dishwasher. :)
Why not? Dishwashing won't hurt a PCB, how do you think they
get cleaned after soldering?
Lee.
.
___________________________________________________________
To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com
I'll be in NY, NY in the Brooklyn area starting tomorrow night very late
(my flight gets in around midnight) and possibly through until Friday
morning. I'm consulting on a movie shoot involving an ASR32.
I'm not sure what my schedule will be, but if anyone wants to meet up (if
I have time) then please contact me privately.
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
[ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ]
[ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org ]
>From: "Ethan Dicks" <ethan.dicks at gmail.com>
>
>On 10/4/05, Chuck Guzis <cclist at sydex.com> wrote:
>> Looking very carefully at the photos of these contacts, I believe they're
simple tinplate. This would fit with the inexpensive phenolic PC board material
being used.
>
>I have an Odyssey - the cards are indeed simple tinplate over copper
>on uber-cheap phenolic board. What you see is what you get. No
>camera tricks here.
>
>-ethan
>
>
Hi
I will repeat again. Coat with DC#4.
I'm beginning to sound like a broken record. It works
with tinplate over copper. It even works with bare copper.
As long as the surface is cleaned first of salts and such,
it will protect for years.
Dwight
>From: "der Mouse" <mouse at rodents.montreal.qc.ca>
>
>> I'll never seen anything horrendous in so far as implosions. I used
>> to service Mac's "back in the day" and had to replace a few CRT's on
>> the original Macs. Apple would send the replacement monitor in a box
>> and inside was another box that you placed the whole mac inside of,
>> you'd follow the standard discharge and then purposely snap the tip
>> of the neck off the back of the monitor before closing up the box and
>> disposing of it, it was a scary moment the first time, but just a
>> quick zip of air and it was done, never had anything happen, did a
>> few dozen monitor replacements and disposals.
>
>Yeah, a small crack in a not-particularly-stressed part of the tube is
>rather unlikely to produce spectacular implosions. (The evacuation
>pinch-off is about as unstressed a part of the tube as it gets.)
>
>I remember, as a kid, going to the village dump. There were usually
>some dead TVs with the cases gone, and I'd throw a rock into the CRTs
>from as far away as I could throw rocks (even then I'd heard of CRT
>implosion danger). Never seemed to be much more dramatic than a glass
>vessel of similar size and shape with no pressure differential, but of
>course I was rather far away. It also could be that a thrown rock is
>not the sort of stress that produces implosion failures.
>
Hi
It usually takes a break such that the gun assembly goes
into the tube. This requires that it has a ring fracture
somewhere in front of the yoke. The assembly is then pulled
by 14.5 lbs towards the front screen. While some vacuum is
lost, as the gun is excelerating, if the diameter of the
assembly of gun and glass is large enough, it will be moving
quite fast before much vacuum is lost.
Assume that the break is such that a 12 inch diameter chunk,
including the neck breaks. Imaging that piece being pushed by
about 1800 lbs of force. How fast would you expect it to be
moving?
Not likely to break this way in most cases. It really depends
on stress, scratches and luck.
Dwight
Yet another IMSAI 8080 has been listed on the VCM. The last one went for
a really good price at $990, but this one is listed for $850 as a straight
sale!
http://www.vintagecomputermarketplace.com/view.cfm?ad=2023
I'd say that's at least a couple hundred bucks under current market value.
Get it while you can...
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
[ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ]
[ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org ]
> Interestingly, that info implies that it's the steel strap
> around the perimeter of the CRT's face which does the implosion
> protection, and that the laminated faceplate is purely an
> additional protection against scratches etc.
Glass is very strong under compression but not strong under tension,
the forces on an unbanded CRT leave the glass on the outside edge of
the face under tension as the forces from the air pressure on the back
and the front of the envelope are concentrated there. The steel band
compresses the whole tube so that no part of the glass is under
tension.
That said I do have tubes that don't have this band but they are all
shallow angle tubes, much less than 60 degrees.
> So that article alone suggests that the faceplate isn't there
> to stop debris at all
The faceplate is there to stop debris, it really doesn't need to be
any thicker than the rest of the envelope but is made so that if the
envelope fails it will be inside the set that the failure happens.
Lee.
.
___________________________________________________________
To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com
Re: "I've seen an LED map light that plugs into and gets its power from USB.
It seemed to work OK."
That's nothing. Computer Geeks is selling a motorized USB "Aquarium" .... a
clear plastic "tank" in which motorized fish (or perhaps just a mural of
fish) move, powered from a USB port.
At 16:50 -0500 10/4/05, tony wrote:
> >
>> Drive *does* make spinning-up and head-seeking noises (once
>> per power-up). LED indicating drive attention does flash, *once*, as
>
>Does it sound as though it's staying spun-up? It doesn't make spin-down
>noises I hope.
Not until powered down, at which point it makes the noises I'd expect
(taking 2-3 times as long to spin down as the fan, for example).
>Those 'wings' are heatsink tabs, used to conduct heat away from the
>actual chip. It's a standard package for power driver type chips. I would
>guess this chip is either the spindle motor or head actuator driver.
Thought I was being clever, but Oh Well.
>As to whether it should get hot. Well, it is a power device, so it would
>get warm. But if it gets too hot to keep your finger on it for any length
>of time, then I'd start worrying. The chip may not be faulty of course,
>it might be a problem (like a shorted load, or an incorrect drive signal)
>elsewhere in the unit.
Both the head seek and the platter spin noises are consistent with
what I recall from before the failure, so I'll bet that chip is OK.
It's warm, but I can keep my finger on it for seconds at a time, with
no blisters arising.
Started looking for similar drives to mail-order for a controller board-swap.
Thanks to all responses so far!
Progress about to come to a screeching halt on the project, as I'm
about to hit the road again. Sigh.
--
- Mark
210-522-6025, temporary cell 240-375-2995
>From: "Vintage Computer Festival" <vcf at siconic.com>
>
>On Tue, 4 Oct 2005, Andreas Holz wrote:
>
>> I'm experiencing some monitors in the last time, mostly, but not only
>> from HP, with the effect of some kind of small bubbles or shell-like
>> failures in the flront part of the crt-tube. Somewhere I read the
>> description of "screen mold".
>
>Nowadays the consensus is leaning towards a delamination process.
>
>> Does someone knows this effect, has an explanation of it's source (is it
>> really temperature related?) or how to avoid this problem. Some of these
>> monitors (esp. of a HP9845) are looking so badly, that I don't dare to
>> power on.
>
>Most likely it is the protective cover over the CRT which is delaminating
>from the CRT face. I don't currently know of a way to prevent this. It
>seems to happen randomly.
>
Hi
I think it is from evaporation of plasticizers in the layer.
As they evaporate over time, the material shrinks. This causes
a void. The void provides another path for the plasticizer to
evaporate and a local stress point. This forms the stem like
channel feature. As time goes on, plasticizer evaporates from
the edges of the channels. This causes new stems to radiate
outward. This makes the typical fern leaf look.
I would guess the biggest difference between different
manufactures is either a different material or different
sealing of the edges.
The fogging of the material is most likely moisture from
the air.
Dwight
At 04:36 PM 10/3/05 -0700, you wrote:
>
>
>If the connector is gold plated, you should not need to clean them. If you
>are having green, then the gold is a very thin plate,
Not necessary. Gold is very porous and acids and the like penetrate it
easily and corrode the copper underneath and the corrosion products then
travel back through the gold and appear on the surface of the contact. It's
not uncommon to find gold plated contacts with nothing left but a thin
sheet of gold. All the copper was corroded away leaving nothing but the
gold. Corrosion like this is common on the HP calculators and it's what
happens when you plate gold directly over copper. The proper way to do it
is to plate nickel or other non-porous material over the copper and then
plate gold over that. The nickel will prevent the acids and oxygen from
penetrating the surface and corroding the copper. FWIW on OLD cars they
used to plate steel with copper, then nickel and then chrome plate over
that. Plating like that will easily last 40 years (speaking from experience).
Joe
or an amalgam of
>copper and gold ( and possibly other metals) Have you tried a dremel tool
>with a dry polishing wheel - no solvent or compound? Use it lightly. This
>has worked wonders for me though it does take patience.
>
On Oct 3 2005, 13:28, Mark Tapley wrote:
> Broken component is the hard drive from a La Cie Tsunami
> external enclosure. Drive is a Quantum Prodrive LPS, 240 MB capacity,
> 1) Is the HA13476 expected to be pretty warm in use?
>
> 2) What is an HA13476? Is it unobtanium
Don't know...
> 3) Anyone have a matching drive that I could get at reasonably low
> cost to try exchanging controller boards?
...and too far away...
> 4) Any suggestions for further trouble-shooting and/or repairing?
...but I can offer some possible comfort, in that I have swapped boards
between Quantum Prodrive LPSs of that sort of size successfully, even
when the drives participating in the swap have not been the same size
as each other. Might need to swap the ROM as well, but the ones I've
seen are all socketed.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
I intend to return the 5028 to working condition. If, even in its
terrible cosmetic condition, the 5028 is needed as part of somebody's IBM
collection, I will trade it for a regular ASR33. But shipping from NYC
would be expensive and quite possibly destructive. -kurt
I have no idea exactly what model (could LCII screens be used with
anything other than an LCII?), but we have more Apple hardware than we
need right now - if anyone wants to chase this one up, then contact
Mavis Beard direct on mavis.beard at btinternet.com
Seems like a good way of getting a stock Apple machine in nice condition
at the very least.
<<<
I wonder whether you can help please - I wish to find a home for the
following computer which I now no longer need and I have been advised to
contact yourselves:
Apple Mac Computer with Claris Works
Mackintosh LCII Monitor
Mouse
Keyboard
Modem
Printer Stylewriter II
This is in very good condition, in fact hardly used so hope you can
take it on board.
>>>
This is round 5/16" dia mic with felt screen stuck over the small
opening.
Now mic working intermittently and had to tap even bang on it to
wake up.
Now today, I'm planning to combine my mic search with downtown
shopping, will these mic robbed from cheap headphone with mic with
1/8" jack work?
Cheers, Wizard
I have a Texas Instruments 980A with all the flashing lights and switches, hard disk drive and all
I am trying to find a Museum or Individual that would like it
Can you help?
Phillip J. Stensgaard
1123 Fairview Ave
South Pasadena, CA 91030
(626)441-1542
gramp at dslextreme.com
Hi all
Ben Woodelf said :
>Blars Blarson wrote:
>
> > Are you interested in a couple of Frank Hogg Labs systems os9/68k
> > systems? One 68000, one 68020. Located in Los Angeles.
>
>PS. Shipping to Canada is the other factor.
And here I'm sitting wondering what shipping to South Africa
would cost...Canada? Sheesh, you guys are right around the
corner from one another *grin*
W
(Yea, yea, I know, it's a beeeg country...)
Barry Watzman wrote:
On cleaning "copper" contacts (which may be gold plated): I would first try
using a "magic rub" pencil eraser, rubbing it over the contacts. It is very
important to use this specific brand, "Magic Rub", it's non-abrasive. These
are popular and common and this brand of eraser is carried at all office
supply stores (OfficeMax, Staples, Office Depot, etc.)
On sanding plastic, DON'T. Instead use automotive rubbing or polishing
compound and rub/buff with a soft cloth. (if you are going to paint, rubbing
compound is the coarser product). It's possible these will leave a finish so
smooth that you no longer need/want to paint.
I am not familiar with the "magic rub" pencil eraser. Most pencil or
so-called rubber erasers have a high sulpher content. They are especially
hard on silver and copper. I've tried them on copper contacts and watched
the color go from shiny new penny to forest green in a few days.
If the connector is gold plated, you should not need to clean them. If you
are having green, then the gold is a very thin plate, or an amalgam of
copper and gold ( and possibly other metals) Have you tried a dremel tool
with a dry polishing wheel - no solvent or compound? Use it lightly. This
has worked wonders for me though it does take patience.
I agree with Barry on the plastic. I would add to never use power equipment
when sanding plastic. It always leaves a pattern that almost impossible to
get rid off. A little elbow grease and lots of patience. Most rubbing
compound is very coarse so run a test on a hidden surface before using.
I've also used some astronomers grinding grits in water. These come in
extremely fine grits and won't leave visible scratches. Used to buy them
through Edmond or Fisher Scientific.
Billy
On Oct 3 2005, 22:24, Jules Richardson wrote:
>
> I have no idea exactly what model (could LCII screens be used with
> anything other than an LCII?), but we have more Apple hardware than
we
> need right now
I have hardware (most notably a Mac Plus with a matching external hard
drive) but not a key piece of software: Aldus Pagemaker from around
1985/86 (ie one of the earliest versions). Has anybody got a copy they
could donate or lend?
The reason I ask is that I'm involved in an exhibition in Computer
Science at the University of York, to run for the University's Open Day
this Friday, and also to support a series of "hardware tours" for the
first year students starting on Monday (these guided tours are a
scheduled part of each tutorial group's activities in the first week of
term, and are compulsory for each new student). The idea is to show
students what real hardware looks like, in support of the Introduction
to Computer Systems course, which deals with architectures and systems
at an introductory level. Since modern PC hardware isn't very
interesting or especially educational to look at, someone had the
bright idea of showing classic hardware and its innards, and I got
roped in.
Anyway, amongst the PDP-8, PDP-11s, SGIs and Suns, KIM-1, and a bunch
of other things, there's a Mac Plus beside a loop of the 1984 promo
film, and I wanted to show Pagemaker on it, as being the "killer app".
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
All,
mea culpa, didn't teach the kids about backups before trying
to teach them Pascal on my Mac Plus. Sigh.
Broken component is the hard drive from a La Cie Tsunami
external enclosure. Drive is a Quantum Prodrive LPS, 240 MB capacity,
part number (I think) GN24S012 Rev 05-J. Drive failed while in use,
so it's not termination; another hard drive (Seagate ST31230N) in the
same enclosure appears to format OK (that's as far as I've gotten to
date), so I don't think it's the SCSI interface in the Mac Plus or
the Tsunami power supply. (Despite one inadvertent 120V discharge to
the anti-static on the inside of the Tsunami case!)
Drive no longer appears as a boot drive on the Mac Plus SCSI
chain, nor as a boot drive to a Mac II, nor as an accessible drive to
either the Plus or a Powerbook 3400. Another drive (Apple CD 300)
placed downstream of it (and termination rearranged appropriately)
*does* appear to the 3400, so that's another data point that it's the
Quantum that's broken and not the enclosure or the SCSI
cabling/termination.
Drive *does* make spinning-up and head-seeking noises (once
per power-up). LED indicating drive attention does flash, *once*, as
computer boots up. 5V and 12V supplies to drive look OK to my old
analog multimeter.
When running with case open and parts spread out (now more
carefully insulated), one chip on the Quantum controller board gets
pretty hot pretty fast. That chip is marked 2J4 HA13476 and
has a couple of "wings" in place of the middle 4 or so legs that
would normally be on either side of a regular DIP package.
I haven't gotten an ESR meter yet (I *really* need one of
those), and have not attempted to survey for bad caps on the Quantum
controller board.
Questions:
1) Is the HA13476 expected to be pretty warm in use?
2) What is an HA13476? Is it unobtanium, or replaceable by someone of
my meager soldering skill?
3) Anyone have a matching drive that I could get at reasonably low
cost to try exchanging controller boards?
4) Any suggestions for further trouble-shooting and/or repairing?
I'm proceeding with the Seagate, and will restore from my
last backups, but I know I won't get the kids' Pascal code, so I'd
like to try to get this HDA running again if at all possible. (Plus
there's the nostalgia factor - this was our main home system until
1997 or so, long enough that people were making fun of us about it.)
(And yes, our current main home system is *almost* on topic. It's the
3400 referred to above.)
I'm reading classiccomp on digest, and have an hellacious
travel schedule through next February, so my responses will be
sporadic at best. Apologies in advance for that, but any advice is
well appreciated!
--
- Mark
210-522-6025, temporary cell 240-375-2995
Hi
I recommend removing the oxides as non-abrasively
as you can. Try the eraser trick but for stubborn
oxides, I often use a stiff piece of wood, like
a popsicle stick and water. The oxide itself can
be abrasive so make sure the rinse the loose stuff
off.
The green oxide can be from copper or nickel.
Once you have the surface clean and dry, use a little
of the DC#4 to coat and protect it from future corrosion.
( See earlier post on subject of DC#4 )
Dwight
>From: "Martin Scott Goldberg" <wgungfu at csd.uwm.edu>
>
>>>My concern is I don't want to use any sort of cleaner that will harm
>>>whatever material the surrounding pcb is made of (as it appears to be made
>>>out of an older, thicker material than most modern PCB's I see).
>>
>>If the underlying material is copper, why not one of the ion-exchange instant
silverplate solutions like Cool-Amp or Caswell Silverplater? They deposit a
very (one molecule) thin layer of silver that might do the trick for a
restoration. Caswell also m
>arkets brush-plating electrolytic silver (and nickel, gold and a whole bunch of
other metals) kits if you'd like something more substantial..
(http://www.caswellplating.com).
>>
>>Cheers,
>>Chuck
>>
>
>The exposed copper doesn't look to be underlying.
>
>Well, here's a pic of what the cart and connector normally looks like -
>
>http://www.pong-story.com/pics/odyssey/cart7.jpg
>http://www.pong-story.com/pics/odyssey/carts.jpg
>
>As you can see, the PCB is much thicker than a standard PCB of today. I'm
>assuming its made of a different material then (which is why I'm hoping
>people on here in to mini's and such from that period of around 1972 would
>be familiar).
>
>The contacts themselves are what are tarnishing and turning green, some
>with white deposits.
>
>Marty
>
Someone sent me this link...
http://davidguy.brinkster.net/computer/
It is an online scan of the book "How it works - the computer", circa 1971.
Very mini-computer oriented. What's even better, is they scanned both a 1971
and 1979 edition of the same book, so you can see how they revised it based
on advances in technology.
I thought it was neat in any case :) Some of the pictures are true porn for
mini collectors :)
Jay West
From: Doc Shipley <doc at mdrconsult.com>
> IIRC, Slack v3.3 took 54 1.44MB disks.
Interesting.
I recall installing something I think was slack with a 0.99 kernel around 1993-4. The i386 with 5M ram and a 40MB HD that ran it was a sporty box back then. I remember bitching 'cause it was something more than a dozen floppies or so. But it had a C compiler, so I could do my homework (and not dial into an AT&T 3b20 or drive in to campus and use a Sun 3).
And it was my UUCP node: ...!ucbvax!gatech!weasel!ken.
Good times...good times...
54 floppies? Wow...you've got more patience than me.
Ken
On cleaning "copper" contacts (which may be gold plated): I would first try
using a "magic rub" pencil eraser, rubbing it over the contacts. It is very
important to use this specific brand, "Magic Rub", it's non-abrasive. These
are popular and common and this brand of eraser is carried at all office
supply stores (OfficeMax, Staples, Office Depot, etc.)
On sanding plastic, DON'T. Instead use automotive rubbing or polishing
compound and rub/buff with a soft cloth. (if you are going to paint,
rubbing compound is the coarser product). It's possible these will leave a
finish so smooth that you no longer need/want to paint.
Hi,
I have a pair of Franklin ACE-1000 (Apple-II clones). One is extremely
clean, and the other is very beat up and dirty. Both appear complete
and I'd guess that at least the clean one probably works, but I have no
cards, drives, cables, or software for these.
I'd rather not deal with ebay or shipping these, so they are available
to whoever wants to get them. Ideally I'd like to get some Apple-II/IIe
software out of the deal for an Apple-IIe I'm trying to get running,
but I don't want any money, just do not want to throw these out.
I live in Plymouth Meeting, and work near West Chester, PA. USA
Mark
--
Mark G. Thomas (Mark at Misty.com)
voice: 215-591-3695
http://www.misty.com/http://mail-cleaner.com/
> Anyone who dosn't know, I'm hoping to run up a CP/M archive.
>As with all endevours of this sort, I'm in need of disk images!
>
> Put 'em online, email 'em to me, do whatever! Get them to me,
>Send minor descriptions, tell me what machines they were made for,
>And most importantly, do include the disk image :)
I have quite a few system disk images posted on my site, including
many CP/M disks for various systems. You can get them directly from
my site, which is:
http://www.parse.com/~ddunfield/museum/index.html
Near the bottom of the page, you will find
"Download Disks/Software images"
New images are being added on an ongoing basis, so check back in from
time to time.
Regards,
Dave
--
dave04a (at) Dave Dunfield
dunfield (dot) Firmware development services & tools: www.dunfield.com
com Collector of vintage computing equipment:
http://www.parse.com/~ddunfield/museum/index.html
>From: "Michael B. Brutman" <mbbrutman at brutman.com>
>
>
>I don't think that the lack of a DMA controller on the PCjr really
>slowed it down any. The old double density drives have a data rate of
>250,000 bps. If the data is presented one byte at a time, that is just
>31250 bytes per second. Even with multiple I/O clock cycles per byte to
>get it to the processor and then to memory, a 4.77Mhz processor can keep
>up with that easily.
>
>Where the lack of DMA would hurt you is on a much faster interface, such
>as a hard disk. Then you wouldn't have any cycles to spare, the the
>difference would show up.
Hi
I don't think the early PC's used DMA for the hard disk.
The HD controllers usually had sector or track buffers.
The program would wait until the buffer was full and
then just move it by software to memory. The floppies
needed DMA because the controllers didn't buffer more
than one byte. The processor would have had to dedicate
it self to the one task without interrupts.
Dwight
I saw an auction which reminded me of the days when the PC and XT
came out, but before clones or otherwise appeared, and before such
as AST were dominating the market.
This auction is for a "zukerboard" 576K mem expansion. 6801436037.
I remember the hype for zucker that they were going to wreck the
market.
The only reason this has any significance is that I believe this was one
of the
AST wannabe's, or even was larger than AST, pre the days when they
started making systems.
I know of at least Zucker, Tecmar (marty tech, I don't remember marty's
last name, but he was some sort of PHD ohio type, I think).
A number of companies were based here in Orange County, California,
and provided a lot of cheap stuff as they cratered, and the local
scrappers
got their. stuff and sold it off.
Processor Technology (? I think) went big time and cratered.
I remember a little shop here in Santa Ana which had the first clone of
the IBM PC. It was a single board which had 640k memory, allowed
using 64k memories, instead of the 16K memory that the PC and XT
earlier models used.
It was called "Superboard" and was no relation to Supermicro, which
came much later. It had a bios that usually worked, but also had,
conveniently, a spot for up to 6 eprom chips, so you could put in a
PC bios if you could get a copy.
The PC used either EProms, (16K I think) and the Roms that were
shipped with the BIOS were registered. The standard Data I/O would
not read them since they were not programmable, and needed their
output enabled to read the data.
But once someone had them in the 2716's, it was easy to get them
running in your superboard.
First systems had a 63 watt P/S, and IBM cards if you could find
them for video. Also there was no floppy controller on the first
board.
Maybe others of you can recall expansion card makers, of such
things as serial, parallel, memory, floppy, then hard drive, etc.
Jim
