Since the archives are down, I can't search for this, but I know its been
discussed here before.
Can anyone recommend a glue for plastic that doesn't suck. Testor's no
longer makes usable plastic model glue. The tube is labeled as "for
polystyrene or ABS plastic", but I think scotch tape would hold better
than this crap will.
SuperGlue (Krazy Glue, whatever the brand on that tube says) doesn't do
any better.
I've got a plastic push gear I'm trying to glue back together, and so far
three different glues haven't done squat! The last one I tried was some
brand of a super glue designed to fill gaps and bond most anything to
anything... yeah right! As soon as the gear was pushed, it snapped at the
glue line again (after letting it dry all weekend).
So what's a good plastic glue that I can buy, and where can I get it?!?
Damn parental groups worrying about kids glueing their eye lids shut have
ruined it for us all!
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
See <http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl1/hp-test.jpg>. It's marked "FDB Test
Board" and it's PN 10921-60009. You can't see it in the photo but the LEDs
are labled 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, COMD,
COMC. I found this in a box of HP 1000 parts so I suspect it for the 1000
or one of it's peripherals.
Joe
Last week I found an interesting looking computer in a scrap place. It
was called a Road Runner and was made by AVL. I wasn't familar with it so I
posted a question here on the CC list about it and no one knew exactly what
it was but a number of people contacted me about it and wanted to see some
pictures of it. Yesterday I went back and and bought it. I brought home and
today I cleaned it up and took some photos. First, the system was made by
Audio Visual Labs of Atlantic Highlands, NJ. Second, I ended up with TWO
monitors, TWO floppy drives and a detachable keyboard even though the unit
has a built in keyboard. After I bought the thing but before I left, I was
looking around and found a bigger computer marked AVL Eagle (I THINK Eagle
was the name on it). I opened it up and it looked like an S-100 chassis. It
had 9 slots with 8 boards in it. Two boards had 8080 CPUs, three boards had
Intersil 6204s (communications boards? and three boards had 2114 memory ICs
on them. All the boards including the backplane were made by AVL. I'd
already paid for my stuff and I didn't think this one was all that
interesting so I left it behind. But my point is that I think I ened up
with the keyboard, monitor and floppy drive from the second AVL system as
well as those for the AVL Road Runner.
Anyway here's the links to the pictures. The Road Runner computer
<http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl3/avl-rr.jpg> and the back of it;
<http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl3/avlrr-b.jpg>. Note the connector on the
left that connects to the expansion box.
Picture of the expansion box, front and rear;
<http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl3/avlexp-b.jpg> and
<http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl3/avl-exp.jpg>. Note the the floppy drive
attachs to the expansion box and it appears that only one floppy drive can
be used on the compter.
Small VM-5 (5 inch?) monitor, front and back;
<http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl2/vm5.jpg> and
<http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl2/vm5-b.jpg>.
Large VM-9 (9 inch?) monitor, front and back;
<http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl3/avl-vm9.jpg> and
<http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl3/mon-b.jpg>.
The external keyboard; <http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl3/avl-kb.jpg>.
The two floppy drives; <http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl2/fd1.jpg> and
<http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl2/fd1-b.jpg>. I don't know which drive
goes with which system but I don't thinkit matters since the drives appear
to be very similar despite the cables coming out at different points in the
box and the drives being painted different colors. Both drives are marked
FD-1.
It's not made by AVL but this patch panel was in the box with the AVL
stuff.<http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl1/patch.jpg>. From the markings on
it, I'd say that it was used with the Road Runner.
OK that's it. Can anyone tell me any more about it?
Joe
I am more geeker than you :-)
17.55424% - Geek
Ram
-----Original Message-----
From: David Woyciesjes [mailto:dwoyciesjes@comcast.net]
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 2:20 PM
To: ClassicCMP
Subject: The Geek Test...
How many of you have seen this one?
http://www.innergeek.us/geek.html
I only got a 7.88955% result...
--
--- Dave Woyciesjes
--- ICQ# 905818
? 2003 OpenLink Financial
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is accepted by Open Link Financial, Inc. for any loss or damage in any
way arising from its use.
Tobias:
Sorry I've fallen behind on the CCtech output, so this is a little behind
schedule.
First, I have schematics of your 2X (also the 2, 4, 10, II, Robie - most
of them except the KII use the same motherboard with different BIOSes and
varying levels of IC population). I can scan them, and send them to you in
a day or three.
Second: your display... unlike terminals where characters arrive serially,
and unlike PCs (and the KII) which have video RAM in the CPU's memory map,
the later Kaypros use a 6845 CRT controller and a custom 40-pin LSI chip.
They form a separate video data/address bus, so any characters incoming have
to be sent to a specified location using registers holding the target video
address. Since the BIOS has to keep on updating the character location to
write to, there's a lot of CPU cycles tied up in the transaction. This is
why the Kaypro video is glacially slow on full-screen updates.
I would suspect that you've got a bad contact on the LSI that bridges the
CPU to the video. Try pulling (gently!) all the 40-pin ICs (6845 and Z80
too) from their sockets, and re-insert them. (Open inputs tend to read as
logic 1, and the worst of your errors occur in the upper screen, where logic
0 is needed for the address.) If enough corrosion built up to mess up the
keyboard, there's a good chance the IC sockets are a little wobbly too. You
might also rub down the IC pins using a pencil eraser if they look
exceptionally cruddy. *Standard ESD precautions apply*
Hope this is useful.
Regards, Bob (and his stable full of orphaned hardware).
Part of original message:
> Here are a few more details regarding the problem:
>
> I didn't start my Kaypro 2X for several years. Some weeks ago I gave it
> a short try and everything seemed to be okay except for the keyboard.
> Due to corrosion many keys didn't react. So I gave it to a friend, who
> first tested all the keys to see which were in need to be cleaned. The
> display was still okay at that time. Then he opened the keyboard and
> cleaned the contacts inside the keyswitches (he had to solder them out
> in order to do that). When he had finished the cleaning he assembled and
> reconnected the keyboard and started the computer. From that time the
> display went silly:
>
> - The powerup message shows up at random coordinates, however some of
> the coordinates are okay (see
> http://home.arcor.de/toa/tmp/kaypro-defekt.jpg). There are a lot of
> additional characters, most of them are '?' (n with ~ above). A few of
> the characters are blinking or show up with low intensity. Effect is the
> same with or without keyboard connected. Everytime I hit the reset
> button I see another random distribution.
>
> - When you type something on the keyboard (at the CP/M prompt) the
> characters show up at random coordinates but the blinking cursor moves
> in the way one would expect (one step to the right for each character,
> 3rd position of new line when you hit return). W/o any keyboard input
> the display is stable except for the blinking chars.
>
> - When you type in CP/M commands (I still have all the disks) they get
> executed but the output characters show up at random coordinates (see
> http://home.arcor.de/toa/tmp/kaypro-dir.jpg for an output of "dir").
>
> Has anyone schematics for the Kaypro 2X?
> Any hints what to do next?
>
> Tobias
Oooh, boy:
34.12229% - Total Geek
Mom will be proud :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk-bounces(a)classiccmp.org
[mailto:cctalk-bounces@classiccmp.org]On Behalf Of David Woyciesjes
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 2:20 PM
To: ClassicCMP
Subject: The Geek Test...
How many of you have seen this one?
http://www.innergeek.us/geek.html
I only got a 7.88955% result...
--
--- Dave Woyciesjes
--- ICQ# 905818
> The biggest problem with these small nylon gears is that
>nothing sticks well to nylon. When you push it back on the shaft, it
>will break most any bond.
> What I recommend is that you core out the center of the gear so
>that is just slides onto the shaft without and tension. You make
>sure the inner surface is a little rough. Use JB Weld to glue it
>on. Don't over drill the center or you won't be able to get a
>good centering. Make sure things are clean and that gravity doesn't
>allow the JB Weld to run into the bearing while setting. Use a
>good cleaner, like brake clean ( automotive product ).
I can't do that because it isn't a round shafted gear. Its a straight
gear notched stick that is pulled from another gear. The stick in turn
pushes or pulls other actuators in sequence.
As a result, there is a HUGE amount of binding tension on the stick, and
no glue I have tried yet as survived even the first use.
I'm thinking of other solutions like JBWeld or some other high strength
option and just coat the broken point with it. The hope is that it won't
so much glue the break, as simply create a splint around it to hold the
broken section in place.
Or, just chuck the whole dang thing in the trash and start over (which is
the easiest solution, and I know in my head that I should do that... but
I'm sure all of you can relate to the obsessive need to fix something
rather than throw it away)
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
Hi Chris
The biggest problem with these small nylon gears is that
nothing sticks well to nylon. When you push it back on the shaft, it
will break most any bond.
What I recommend is that you core out the center of the gear so
that is just slides onto the shaft without and tension. You make
sure the inner surface is a little rough. Use JB Weld to glue it
on. Don't over drill the center or you won't be able to get a
good centering. Make sure things are clean and that gravity doesn't
allow the JB Weld to run into the bearing while setting. Use a
good cleaner, like brake clean ( automotive product ).
Dwight
>From: chris <cb(a)mythtech.net>
>
>>> I've got a plastic push gear I'm trying to glue back together, and so far
>>
>>Ah... What's it out of? Any chance in getting, or making, a replacement gear?
>
>Its actually for a VCR, and an off topic one I might add (its only a few
>years old). Yes I can probably get a new gear from the manufacturer, but
>they are a royal PITA when it comes to getting parts unless you have a
>specific part number. Of course, they don't stamp their parts with the
>numbers, nor do they offer exploded diagrams that list the part
>numbers... which leaves one in the nice situation of not being able to
>order the part because you don't know what they refer to it as!
>
>I've had to jump thru serious hoops to get parts from this company in the
>past, and I figured that glue would be easier then trying to get the
>replacement part. As it stands, from the sounds of it, glue isn't going
>to be any easier, so most likely, the whole VCR is going to be disposed
>of rather than spend any more time on it. (Its for a local animal shelter
>I support, its a crappy TV/VCR unit that the cats use to watch videos of
>birds... I'm not willing to spend any more time working on it when I have
>a VCR and TV I can donate to them instead, and since they are two
>different units, I can wire up the TV in the cat room, and the VCR in an
>office down the hall, which will greatly reduce the amount of cat hair
>and litter dust that gets in the VCR, which was the cause of the failure
>in the first place. What I REALLY want is to hook them up with a computer
>running MPEGs of their videos... that should drop the wear and tear
>factor down to almost nothing as the computer doesn't care if the hard
>drive spins 24x7 for the next 20 years)
>
>However, I'm glad I asked about glues, as this VCR is just what drove me
>to the point of trying to find a decent glue. I've run into the problem
>on a number of things in the past, so now I'm a bit more educated in the
>topic for the next time.
>
>-chris
><http://www.mythtech.net>
>
>
hello,
I see http://simh.trailing-edge.com but i can't work
with similator of 2100.
i have hp 2100S computer and hp 7900A disc drive.
i haven't backup heads of 7900a and i want provide
them.
i have some program in exe format on 7900A disc,i want
run them on pc
but i don't know any way for run them on pc.
i study about CPU,DMA,I/O system of hp 2100 and 7900A
disc drive too.
i doing work now to make my designed I/O circuit ,it
input in pc's ISA and
work like 7900A for 2100S 's I/O associate disc, but
some work remain to
complet this subject.
i want write assemblly program (and input in memory of
2100) for read
sector by sector data of 7900A with selected code 0
and write them on
my I/O with selected code 1 and write another C
program on pc for work
with I/O and file this data.
i think that if i can do it i shall write similator
program and when decode
I/O instruction with DMA,disc drive I/O selected code
load addressed
data in file to array (virtual RAM)in similator
program.
but i know that i need help very much.
i don't know many things about your similator , i hope
possible that i can
work with your similator and run my 2100 program on
similator.
please send me any information that you
think it is good.
please help me.
my name is mehdi .
my email : oceanid987(a)yahoo.com
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