I recently won an auction described as a "Science Fair Junior
Electronic Lab 10 in 1"... the picture showed a couple of
blue grid boards which were, AFAIK, not part of a 10-in-1
It turns out that in addition to the 10-in-1, there was
an entire (and a partial) "Science Fair Junior Project
Board Kit" (cat no. 28-153) - one manual, two plug boards,
one IC board (14-pin socket + 14 springs) plus a double
handful of mixed loose components.
The components are somewhat interesting from a historical
perspective - there are several flavors of transistor sockets,
several segmented LED displays (some on PCBs as from an LED
calculator, some in DIP form), mercury switches, reed switches,
and a bag of resistors with a "King Kits" card from Poly Paks.
I'm curious if there's a repository of ancient Radio Shack kit
manuals out there - I did not get a manual for the 10-in-1
(cat no. 28-225), but at least I got its box (covered in packing
tape, grrr.)
-ethan
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
http://search.yahoo.com
Ok, with the performance problems held at bay for the moment (they are
fixed, but there's more I want to do there), I am going to temporarily dig
into fixing all the archives, and probably making them searchable. I'm still
scouring through the files on the server, but so far it looks like I may be
missing huge chunks of the original mbox format messages. Guess that's what
happens with drive crashes, drive upgrades, etc. I've got more to look
through, but if it comes to that, does anyone happen to have the entire
classiccmp archive in mbox format? Thought I'd ask in advance just to see
how hard I should try to find it all :)
Thanks!
Jay West
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
16 bit ISA MFM/Floppy/Serial/Parallel cards. I have about 15 left. Shame to
throw them away. Anyone want one or two? I'll send them just for postage.
Jumper settings are at: http://www.embeddedlogic.com/TH99/c/U-Z/20298.htm.
Shipping is around $5.75 to continental US priority mail. I'll ship parcel
post, which is less, but slow and unreliable. Replies off list. I can take
postage payment via paypal.
Let me know,
Kelly
This weekend picked up a nice score from the State of Oregon. Mainly because
I could go pick it up. At that time an unknown configuration. All I knew is
that it was a MV3800.
Turns out to be a standard MV3, KA655-AA, with a nice CMD SCSI card, a
CQD-443/tm. No Drives on either the DSSI or SCSI, TQK70, KFQSA, 2 MS650-BA (32 meg
RAM), DESQA, DP-11 single serial and a CXY08-M 8 port mux in a BA213 cabinet.
Originally installed in 1990.
I don't think it fits into my plans, open to offers or trades. Reply off list
to innfosale(a)aol.com please.
Paxton
Astoria, OR 97103
I just got off the phone with a woman in Texas that has a HP 64000 LDS
that she wants to sell. She says that it has lots of cards and lots of
external cables and lots of pods. She doesn't really know what it is and
didn't have it right there in front to her so that's the best description
she could give at the time. If anyone is interested, you can call her.
Cindy Croxton
830-792-3400
830-792-3404 fax
Joe
Just a follow-up since hopefully everyone was busy over the
weekend and did not see my appeal for HELP!!!!
To be more specific:
OKIDATA OL830 LED PAGE PRINTER
Model No. EN257OHA
When the power is applied, after a few seconds the front
LED shows: "INITIALIZING" followed a few seconds
later by the error message:
ERROR ENGINE
FAN PROBLEM
At that point, the SERVICE LED turns red.
Otherwise, everything else looks and sounds normal.
I have managed to remove the top plastic portion of the
case (two bolts at the front). Of course, when the power
is applied in this case, the error is "COVER OPEN".
The fan at the back rear on the left is free spinning, but
is seems doubtful that is the problem.
Had anyone the knowledge as to what might be wrong
and how it can be fixed?
Sincerely yours,
Jerome Fine
--
To obtain the original e-mail address, please remove
the ten characters which immediately follow the 'at'.
If you attempted to send a reply and the original e-mail
address has been discontinued due a high volume of junk
e-mail, then the semi-permanent e-mail address can be
obtained by replacing the four characters preceding the
'at' with the four digits of the current year.
>It depends on how you define the words "first", "true" and "portable".
>This may seem like ridiculous quibbling but the problem is that you must
>judge based on a specified set of conditions, otherwise the title is
>meaningless.
What would be considered the first "laptop" by today's laptop standards?
(ie: can actually sit on your lap, and has a self contained battery power
supply, screen, and keyboard).
I saw someone the other day try to claim that Apple released the first
laptop computer (Mac Portable), but I'm sure it wasn't anywhere near the
first (it was released in 1989 IIRC)
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
>Mark Tapley writes:
> > Steve,
> > ftp seems to be working just fine....
> >
> > OK, I think they are all there. Do you see them OK?
>
>Yup, about 30MB of them. Browsers pointed to this URL:
>
> ftp://ftp.crash.com/pub/tapley
>
>will get the list of images and can go from there. Feel free
>to point people at it. Confirmed to work by someone off-site.
>
>--S.
And also, Stan Seiler pointed out to the CCtech crowd,
At 12:26 -0800 11/3/03, Stan Sieler wrote:
>http://www.lzrd.net/ClassicCMP/
>
>has the photos, I think.
>
>--
>Stan Sieler
Thanks to both!
--
- Mark
210-522-6025, page 888-733-0967
In a message dated 11/3/2003 2:19:51 PM Eastern Standard Time,
healyzh(a)aracnet.com writes:
<< Can you get something called "Zap-A-Gap"? I'm not sure where all you can
get it, I know that I used to use it for wargamming miniatures, and it's a lot
like "Super Glue", but better. I was able to find it at both gaming places,
and I think hardware stores (I think I last found some about 3-4 years ago).
The stuff is far better than Testor's ever was.
Something else that you can do with Superglue is to use a piece of Kleenex
to strengthen the piece in question (unless it's to close of a fit to other
stuff).
One thing to be sure and do if possible is test any glue on a piece of the
same type of material that you don't care about.
Zane >>
zap-a-gap is cryanocrylate glue, used for building RC planes. It's a thicker
version so it sets up slower and can be used where parts are not a perfect
fit. The thin version sets fast, but cannot accomodate cracks in fitment. Hobby
shops sell various types including an accelerator spray that will make any cryo
glue set and harden immediately. ah, memories of that smell!