>I have a box of VMS 4.x and VMS 5.x magtape and standalone TU58s and
>RX50s. I want to create a CD-ROM that acts like a VMS 6.1 CD for
>installation under, say, simh. I know I can extract saveset files, etc.,
>to install VMS under simh. I want to package the savesets in a
>more modern fashion and save a step or two at install time.
I assume you have access to a VMS box that can read the
relevant media. If so you can create a container disk
using LDDRIVER (or one of the many other equivalent
freeware utilities). Then use VMSINSTAL to extract
the savesets (all the savesets) to [000000] on this disk.
You may or may not have to manually intervene since
VMSINSTAL depends on saveset naming conventions
that may not have been applied in the V4 days.
Assuming you fill in the blanks above, you will
end up with a bunch of valid savesets in [000000].
You can now use STABACKIT to make the
LD disk bootable into Standalone BACKUP.
(If you feel like it, you can put a complete
OpenVMS system on there ... you might
as well since your kits *must* reside in
[0,0] to work!!).
Now disconnect and dismount the LD disk
and burn the contianer file to CD as
a block-by-block binary (CDR-Win and
Gear can both do this, Easy CD cannot
AFAIK and Nero and Clone CD I have not
used enough to have a worthwhile opinion).
You can, assuming you are set up to do
this, burn directly from OpenVMS with
CDRECORD.
>Is this possible? I have a SCSI CD-R drive (Smart & Friendly 2006, a
>rebadged Sony 926) and SCSI magtape on an AXP/VMS box. I presume
>there is a version of cdrecord for VMS, or an equivalent. Is there an
>ODS-1 or OSD-2 equivalent of mkisofs for VMS? Does there have to be?
For the above method you do not need mkisofs since
you are building an ODS-2 disk. If, however, SIMH won't
accept an ODS-2 CDROM, you'll have to do a
binary FTP of the savesets to a PC and burn
>from there (although how SIMH can cope with
the result, I do not know) or pick up the
OpenVMS mkisofs (I have a pointer somewhere ...)
and use that directly.
Antonio
> I wanted to conduct some survey of the common practices (which
> may or may not be good practices) to powering your very own mini
> and maxi big iron in your home. I think this topic may be
Well, the biggest I've got in our apartment is my PDP-11/73, and a couple of
PDP-8's. They're small enough they plug into a normal wall socket. Oh,
there is also the VAX 3500, but I've not even plugged it in to see if it
works. Hmmm, then there is the really big 'computer', does a 4 slot Neo Geo
Arcade machine count as 'Big Iron' :^) Or is that 'Big Wood' :^)
However, in my folks garage I've got my PDP-11/44 with a pair of RL02's.
Since the system is supposed to have a 15A feed, my Dad built a 'extension'
cable that plugs into one of the sockets next to their washer & dryer (not
sure why they've a spare socket). It's been a few years since he built it,
however, I remember that he built it useing parts that were spec'd at 15+
amps. The only problem with this is you can't do laundry while the PDP-11
is running.
Now my question is, what are you doing about cooling? I know the /44 will
get my folks garage up to a comfortable temp fairly quickly in the winter,
and it can only be run in the morning in the summer.
Zane
>When I power up the system, with monitor attached, the internal cooling
>fan spins up, the hard drive spins up (and sounds normal), and the
>machine chimes what I seem to recall as being the regular start up sound
>for this era of Mac. However, the display remains dark. If I power off
>the Mac, leaving the monitor on, the monitor makes a light
>static/crackle noise; it's the sort of sound I normally associate with a
>monitor that's lost the video input signal. I've played with the
>brightness and contrast controls without any success.
Your start up bong should be a single smooth tone. If it is a "melody" of
any kind, it is not a startup bong, but rather chimes of doom. The melody
will tell you what may be the problem.
The first thing is to check the PRAM battery. Many Macs will not start
properly with a dead battery. If it is dead, Radio Shack stocks all 3
kinds used in Macs (but ironically, standard PC CMOS batteries are
special order). I don't recall if the Performa 47x used the square 4.5
volt, or the 1/2 AA 3.6 volt. I think it might be the 1/2 AA, but either
way, it will be pretty obvious when looking at the logic board.
Also, press the CUDA button on the logic board (again, I don't recall off
the top of my head if the 47x has one, but I think it does). This will be
a small red button on the logic board. I seem to recall on the 47x it was
either near the ports on the back of the board, or near the front by the
floppy and HD connections. But again, it might not be there at all.
The CUDA button will do a deep hardware reset, this will clear any
screwed up hardware settings it might have (and is usually recommended to
do after changing PRAM batteries, or adding or removing cards).
Finally, if none of that works, disconnect the HD and floppy. You should
get at the very least when no drives are connected, a grey screen with a
disk with flashing question mark.
If THAT doesn't work... do you have access to another Mac? Can you make a
known good bootable floppy disk? (you can download a 7.5 disk tools image
>from Apple's web site). Build a disk, and put it in the drive
(reconnected drive that is), and try to boot from it. If your system is
working, but the monitor is dead, you will head the Mac doing a bunch of
accessing of the floppy drive as it boots (They will boot fine with no
monitor attached).
But with all this, I suspect the problem will be a bad PRAM battery, or a
need to press the CUDA button.
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
Hello, all:
I'm starting a new project...an emulator for the Altair 680b. So,
I'm collecting random bits and pieces of code that I might need to implement
it.
What I'm looking for now is source code to read/write Motorola
S-records. There is a nice source code file that exists for reading/writing
Intel HEX files but I haven't been able to find a similar one for S-records.
Does anyone have such a thing?
Rich
==========================
Richard A. Cini, Jr.
Congress Financial Corporation
1133 Avenue of the Americas
30th Floor
New York, NY 10036
(212) 545-4402
(212) 840-6259 (facsimile)
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Hello guys,
this item is almost certainly not to be considered "classic" yet, but it
also isn't "leading edge" any more, is it? I'm asking here because even with
hours of googling, I wasn't able to find a pinout for the missing cable and I
figured that somebody on the list might have the thing and be willing to meter
it out for me. The installation procedure tells you to disconnect the monitor
>from your graphics card, connect it to the TV card and plug the loop cable
into the graphics and the TV card.
It is the exterior cable that I didn't get (DE15HD -> Mini-DIN-7); I have
the interior "feature connector" ribbon cable. If you could tell me which pins
to connect, I should be able to solder a replacement cable.
Many thanks in advance
Arno Kletzander
Arno_1983(a)gmx.de
--
GMX - Die Kommunikationsplattform im Internet.
http://www.gmx.net
Returned to my last gold mine in Topeka; Joe and I found some nice
stuff. With his sharp eyes he found more Amiga memory & SCSI cards for
me. He went home with some S100 memory cards, and a B&H (black) Apple
II. I came home with another C64, two 1541 drives, another Ozzie I with
modem, and miscellaneous Apple II cards and documentation.
Surplus Exchange(in the west Bottoms) had the goodies cordoned off; I
believe they are throwing out the vintage stuff and rearranging the
salable PC stuff.
Had a find time killing the day. My thanks to Joe and his sharp eyes;
what he found really made my day.
Gary Hildebrand
St. Joseph, MO
Hi
Look at the wiring. If it looks similar to what is on the other
25L6's, you should be OK. You should check the grid voltages
on all of these tubes. Incorrect bias can cause excess plate
disapation. This will shorten the tube life to minute/hours.
See below for pinout:
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/scripts/showbase.dll?TYPE=25L6&BASE=7AC
later
Dwight
>From: "Sellam Ismail" <foo(a)siconic.com>
>
>
>So I'm off to look for a 25L6 tube for my IBM 026. John Lawson says that
>the tube is a 25L6 because all the other tubes in the rack are 25L6 types
>and he believes they are hammer drivers. Not to doubt the venerable
>Mr. Lawson, since he did used to service these, but I just want to make
>sure this is in fact the right tube type that goes into the socket that is
>currently empty. See photo here:
>
>http://www.vintage.org/gallery.php?title=IBM%20026%20Printing%20Card%20Card…
unch&grouptag=IBM026
>
>I'd hate to plug in the wrong tube and then witness volumnious
>amounts of smoke billow from within the machine. Can someone verify that
>the 25L6 is indeed the correct tube for the empty socket?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
>
> * Old computing resources for business and academia at www.VintageTech.com *
>
>
>
Hi:
I think the subject of this message isn't quite 10
years old yet, thus the "OT".
I've got two IBM 4224-01 printers I recently acquired
>from a company going out of business. Both units
exhibit the same problem/symptom - when I power them
up, the LED display will flash, the fan just starts to
spin up, and then - nothing. It seems to die off
completely.
Since both are doing this I thought I'd ask the list
to see if there's something else I need. Both of
these have Twinax interfaces, which I'm not familiar
with at all - I've tried connecting a T-connector to
one of them to see if it's some sort of termination
problem, but see no difference in behavior.
My purpose in getting these is to resell them, so I'd
like to know if they work or not so I can price them.
Any help appreciated!
-- Frank
=====
= M O N T V A L E S O F T W A R E S E R V I C E S P. C.=
Clayton Frank Helvey, President
Montvale Software Services, P. C.
P.O. Box 840
Blue Ridge, VA 24064-0840
Phone: 540.947.5364 Email: msspcva(a)yahoo.com
============================================================
__________________________________________________
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Hello gents. Considering all of the old DEC equipment, and other old
hardware that is, and has been, in use here in my building, I'm fairly
positive this terminator falls in the 10-year rule...
I have here a terminator of some sort. It's a male 37 pin (DE37?),
the hood is black plastic, no identifying marks on it. Only " CONTACT
11.2964 075 " on the metal shroud that surrounds the pins.
Inside is one of those orange circuit sheets, with an blue rectangle
chip on it. The chip is marked...
14-3-
221/331
*B 8418
... there is 106027 on the end of the sheet, with REV. B on the side. The
logo on the sheet looks like a stylized MB. Here's what the pinout is...
Chip - Connector
1 - 21
2 - 20
3
4 - 16
5 - 14
6 - 13
7 - 1
8 - 29
9 - 22
10 - 23
11 - 24
12 - 25
13 - 26
14 - 27
Any ideas what it is, and what its for? Anyone?
--
--- David A Woyciesjes
--- C & IS Support Specialist
--- Yale University Press
--- (203) 432-0953
--- ICQ # - 905818
Mac OS X 10.1 - Darwin Kernel Version 5
Running since 01/22/2002 without a crash
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I just picked up an RS/6000 7012-320H this weekend from Sean Caron. It
seems complete, but I haven't tried to power it up yet. It's currently
keyless. How hard would it be to re-key it to use the key from my
7013-530? I've never tried such a thing. Anybody done it, or tried it?
Chad Fernandez
Michigan, USA