On Jun 5, 0:09, Tony Duell wrote:
> > S-records. There is a nice source code file that exists for
reading/writing
> > Intel HEX files but I haven't been able to find a similar one for
S-records.
> Earlier this evening I was thinking about a project that will involve (in
> part) translating binary to/from IntelHex (or Motorola S-record would do,
> actually). Can you give me a URL for that source code you mentioned (or
> any other source code for a simular program).
Ages ago, I wrote a "loader" that will convert Intel HEX records to binary,
on a Unix machine (or about anything else with a C compiler). It's quite
powerful, being designed to handle multiple files, sparse files, patch
files, etc, for EPROM programmers.
I planned to make a whole set of HEX -> binary, HEX -> S-record, S-record
-> binary, etc, but I never quite finished. Most of this has been
available on my web site for a while, and I've just added a couple of files
for anyone who wants them.
http://www.dunnington.u-net.com/public/IntelHEX/
IntelHEX.txt is a simple explanation of comon HEX records (as
used by CP/M and some programmers, for example)
S-records.txt is a similar explanation of S-records (not written by me)
ihex.tar is the source/manpage for a binary-to-HEX converter,
written by my friend James Carter
mload.tar is the source/manpage for my HEX-to-binary and
S-record-to-hex converters, along with some notes.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
> >Is it legal to distribute an ISO file of that to people with
> >a hobby license? I have the later Hobbyist CD, but would
> >love to have a copy of the original one.
>
> No idea. I'm pretty sure I've seen trustworthy
> people indicate that this can be done and that
> the licence allows you to get media anyway
> you can, including copying. If you can find
> a statement to that effect on either the montagar
> webpage or somewhere in the OpenVMS web
> pages, that'll do for me. Quite how you convince
> anyone that you have a hobbyist licence is
> another matter.
>
> Antonio
The Hobbyist license allows you to make copies of DEC/Compaq media, however,
I'm not sure if it allows you to make copies of the Hobbyist CD's.
Zane
> > 5.5 is available on CD, it's just not easy to get.
>
> If I had it, I wouldn't be asking. :-)
It would be really nice if someone could make the first Hobbyist CD
available. As far as I'm concerned the V2 CD is basically worthless (OK, I
confess that's becuase I've plenty of real Compaq/DEC kits), however, the V1
CD has all kinds of cool stuff on it as well as various versions of VAX/VMS
between 5.5 and 6.1.
> > What you want instead of mkisofs is something called the "Logical Disk
> > Driver", IIRC. That allows you to create a CD sized ODS-2 logical disk
> > that you can copy stuff onto.
>
> Is that a DEC (HP) product or Freeware?
Freeware. Check the FAQ, it's probably got pointers.
>
> > Actually on second thought this would probably be easiest on a SCSI based
> > VAX with an RZ25.
>
> How about a SCSI-based Alpha? And how about an RZ26 that isn't more than
> 65% full? If physical size really matters, I could throw an ST1480
> drive on the Alpha and have 424MB - plenty of room for this task.
I'm not sure what it would take to build standalone backup on a disk
attached to an Alpha, or if it's even possible. As for a RZ26, I suspect
you'd have some major problems, however, I don't know for sure. The ST1480
would be a safer choice.
> Would it be a problem for cross-platform? I know it's easy to make
> a disk on your own machine bootable to standalone (SYSE and whatnot).
> I guess given the DCL script to make the standalone partition in the
> first place, it wouldn't be impossible to modify it to pull from
> someplace other than SYS$SYSROOT.
By cross-platform are you talking VAX vs. Alpha, or VAX vs. PC? In either
case I really don't know, the VAX vs. Alpha concerns me.
> Pity it probably won't fit on a ZIP disk - I'll have to physically
> move a drive from machine to machine.
I think for V5.5 you'll need roughly 150MB for the full install (at least
IIRC it will fit on a RD54).
> That's the easy part. I'll probably do it on SPARCstation instead of
> an Intel Linux box, but that's no big deal.
Hmmm, I like that idea! I think you just pointed out how I can save some
space!
Zane
>None. We either had a two-board Unibus set that provided an
>intellegent DDCMP connection (forget the model number, but *boy*
>were they expensive when they first came out)
Might that have been the DMV11? I had one
hanging off the UNIBUS of the VAX 8350 for a
while. Luckily noone ever logged a bug so I
never had to fidn out whether it worked or not :-)
>had one anyway), but it was hard on the CPU. We did have some
>old Qbus sync ports (DPV11?), but we never attached a MicroVAX
The older one was indeed the DPV11. The newer, spiffier and
more expensive one was the DSV11.
Antonio
I've got a pair of these Gandalf DOV 640's (Data Over Voice units) and I
was wondering...
1) Is there a difference between 'master' and 'slave' units? I have a
pair of what is marked 'slave' units.
2) Does anyone have a manual for these or can anyone tell me what the RDL
and TL switches do, along with the dip switches inside?
I'm not sure this things strictly meet the 10-year rule, but they should
at least be close to it.
Thanks for any info!
-- Pat
Anyone know anything about the Integra Systeme 2/5. Most likely a French
OEM. We just picked one up in a 6ft rack with a tape drive, two
removable disk drives, a Kennedy 9218 Format Control Unit and a Kennedy
1629 Half Duplex Interface.
We are told the system orginially came with 8 terminals.
I have not had chance yet to see how the units are identified inside the
cabinet.
From the front panel switches the processor is a 16 bit mini.
Any further information is welcome
-- hbp
>My best VAX processor is either the 8200 or a MicroVAX-II. Neither
>have Ethernet at the moment (I'm working on getting a DEBNT going).
The easy option is to buy or borrow a DELQA - but
I think we've been there before :-)
The alternative is to have someone who does have
a VAX running V5.5-2 and sufficient disk space to
build you a 650MB disk container file with OpenVMS V5.5-2
S/A BACKUP on it, drop it on a 700MB CD (or build
a 700MB container file and zip it up and drop that
on CD) and post it to you.
Then you pop the CD into your Alpha and copy
off the resulting container file, connect an
LD device to it and just add files to [000000]
until cooked.
Then take that and burn to CD.
If you had asked about two years ago I could
have done that easily. Right now I have no VAX
running V5.5-2. Why does your S/A BACKUP
have to be 5.5-2? Will not V7.2 do? All you
want to do is boot and install whatever
version of OpenVMS you have put togetehr, no?
Antonio
Scrap dealers don't pay much for big transformers due to the fact that they
are not worth very much.. You know something can't be too valuable when the
yard won't even give you any money for it, heh.
Will j
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
Hi,
I wanted to conduct some survey of the common practices (which
may or may not be good practices) to powering your very own mini
and maxi big iron in your home. I think this topic may be
embarrassing so PLEASE let's wait 10 days or so before flaming
and blaming each other for our risky ways of squeezing the last
amp out of our feeds. I would hope that in the end we could
summarize in a calm and sensible way what the general suggestions
might be to a safe but reasonable way of running equipment.
Here I go then. As you know, I have two hot-spots:
(1) 2 VAX 6000-460 and 8 to 10 RA90 and 2 RA8x and one HSC90
that I run in my basement. I have a dedicated 60 A 220 V 4-wire
line going right into that room. I have terminated that line in
a circuit breaker box and feed the computers with a 25 A 220 V
line. This is about 6 to 9 foot cable of AWG #10 that I run without
a metal conduit. (The other breakers feed German household stuff
that we still have in use here and there.)
I noticed that when I have everything on, the 25 A breaker gets
warm. Fairly warm. Not hot, but markedly warm. I made sure the
wires are screwed very tight and the breaker is seated right, but
still it gets warm. That worries me a bit.
Also, I think that my #10 wire is under-dimensioned after all.
Since all the consumers are essentially doing some (more or less)
good job of load balancing, eventually the neutral wire gets
quite a bit of load, possibly beyond 25 A. Theoretically up to
50 A. So, I should have used #8 or even #6 then.
However, the practical problem is that you can't fit #6 wire into
a breaker contact screw. And even #8 is going to be on the low
end with 50 A. The best thing would be if neutral was twice as
thick here. I am considering to put in two lines in parallel from
the same breaker through the same conduit (if any) the outlets
very close together.
(2) The VAX 11/780, UNIBUS, TU78, and TE16 in the garage.
They run off the same line (so that line is no longer dedicated.)
I spliced a branch off with split bolts and lots of electric tape.
for insulation. The branch terminates in a dedicated box with
the original outlets. The initially #8 AWG is distributed through
#10 wires to the various outlets. Even some #12 to the two
standard 110V outlets in that box.
My concern there is, of course, that (a) the split bolt construction
may develop resistance and increased heat dissipation. Also (b) the
way I downsize and distribute the #6 feet to smaller wires in the
outlet box may lead to overcurrent if the devices aren't connected
where they should. I did my best to have the big suckers on thick
AWG and shorter length than the moderate consumers. On the other
hane, turning the VAX 11/780 on is an extremely rare event right now
and will probably be in the future. Some hours per week perhaps.
I was concerned about what to do whe I have my VAX party (when
everything works.) If we want to turn it all on at the same time,
something might happen...
I regularly check the warmth of that breaker downstairs and now that
that spplit-bolt tap is insulated I can check that for heat. But it's
nothing I want to run 24/7 without attention. So, I know I have to do
something about it. I usually take the circuit off line when I am
done with it.
The problem of course is that to do it properly would require
upgrading the main feed, replacing the main breaker panel running
thousands of new wires, and sub-panels, where each machine essentially
has its own breaker, and of course the outlets and plugs need to be
all proper. Easy to spend $2000 or more in material and labor for that
upgrade. For equipment we run a few hours per week.
I'm really interested in hearing how others with minis do it. (If you
don't have a mini yourself but want to teach the dangers of electricity
and the demands of the NEC, please hold off for 10 days, O.K.?) Any
good or bad example is welcome.
regards,
-Gunther
--
Gunther Schadow, M.D., Ph.D. gschadow(a)regenstrief.org
Medical Information Scientist Regenstrief Institute for Health Care
Adjunct Assistant Professor Indiana University School of Medicine
tel:1(317)630-7960 http://aurora.regenstrief.org
Hello all,
I just acquired a "PLI Infinity Optical Disk" which is actually a Sony SMO-C501-00 magneto optical drive. I believe the firmware is v2.13.
Does anyone know if I can make this drive work under Windows98se? I have no drivers. When I connect it to my SCSI card (Jaz Jet Ultra), it shows up on the SCSI chain. I have it set as device #4.
But when I insert a disk, it spins up, then down, then up, then down, etc. etc. etc.
There are a bunch of DIP switches on the back of the drive, between the SCSI ports. They are all set to "ON".
Any help would be appreciated.
--
Scott Orlowski
Elizabeth, PA
scotto(a)attbi.com
http://scotto.home.attbi.com