Hi all,
I would like to get rid of the following HP stuff:
2 ea HP 9920 but one powersupply is defective.Each has a number of memory
modules.
2 ea 98203a keyboard
2 ea 98622a GPIO interface
2 ea 98204a video interface
2 ea 98626a rs232c interface
1 82913a monitor
2 ea 9021D dual HPIB floppy unit
2 ea 82906a HPIB printer
NO software what so ever.
The stuff is located in Arnhem, The Netherlands and not very light.
Wim
>From: "Philip Pemberton" <philpem(a)dsl.pipex.com>
>
>Hi all,
> OK, so here I am sitting at my computer with a stack of 100 or so disks
>to reformat. Unfortunately most of said disks have been labelled using
>felt-tip pen. And the labels are the nasty kind that don't come off without
>a fight. Sooo... Has anyone got a method that will get these stupid things
>off without leaving a gummy, sticky residue or damaging my disks? I've tried
>WD40 (didn't work at all), 3-in-1 oil (don't ask), an upside down airblaster
>(freeze spray for half the price) and a few other things and nothing works!
> Anyone want to share their secret?
GooGone
Dwight
On Oct 9, 21:00, Philip Pemberton wrote:
> Hi all,
> OK, so here I am sitting at my computer with a stack of 100 or so
disks
> to reformat. Unfortunately most of said disks have been labelled using
> felt-tip pen. And the labels are the nasty kind that don't come off
without
> a fight. Sooo... Has anyone got a method that will get these stupid
things
> off without leaving a gummy, sticky residue or damaging my disks? I've
tried
> WD40 (didn't work at all), 3-in-1 oil (don't ask), an upside down
airblaster
> (freeze spray for half the price) and a few other things and nothing
works!
> Anyone want to share their secret?
Since you're in the UK, I'd suggest one of the aerosol label removers that
CPC sell. They're quite effective.
What I use, though, is white spirit (as used for cleaning brushes used for
oil paint) or sub turps. Several drops on the label (make sure it covers
the whole thing) and leave it for an hour or two, then it will probably
peel off *slowly*. I've even used this to remove thirty-year old labels
>from the covers of ex-library books, but for really stubborn labels like
that, usually I put on enough to make the label look slighly wet, cover it
with a piece of kitchen paper soaked in white spirit (to prevent it all
evaporating too quickly) and leave it for 24 hours.
Any residue can be removed with kitchen paper or a rag moistened in white
spirit, then followed with a dry paper to remove the rest. If it was on
something absorbent (like a book cover) let it dry thoroughly for a day or
two after that.
If the label mostly comes off, but leaves a thin layer of paper, you can
probably scrape that off with a fingernail and remove the rest of the goo
with sellotape and perseverance.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
> OK, so here I am sitting at my computer with a stack of 100 or so disks
>to reformat. Unfortunately most of said disks have been labelled using
>felt-tip pen. And the labels are the nasty kind that don't come off without
>a fight. Sooo... Has anyone got a method that will get these stupid things
>off without leaving a gummy, sticky residue or damaging my disks? I've tried
>WD40 (didn't work at all), 3-in-1 oil (don't ask), an upside down airblaster
>(freeze spray for half the price) and a few other things and nothing works!
> Anyone want to share their secret?
I use a two step method.
#1 Avon Skin-So-Soft to remove the label. The oils in it will loosen the
glue so you can remove the label without much effort. However, it leaves
the glue itself behind, so in a few days when the skin so soft completely
dries up, you will be left with a stack of floppies that stick to
everything.
So I do step #2: While the glue is loose, I use rubbing alcohol to remove
the glue residue. Do this AFTER buffing off the excess skin so soft. Once
you give it a scrub down with alcohol, the active glue will be removed,
leaving you with a nice fresh (and ever so pleasent smelling) floppy disk.
Or, if you plan to put a new label on right away, you can skip step #2,
and just buff off the excess skin so soft, and apply a new label
(however, I have had some problems with that in the past... the skin so
soft gets into the plastic, and shortly after you apply the new label,
you find it is falling off... that is why I do the two step process, and
then leave them for a few days to fully dry).
Although I have not had an issue with this... I would be cautious about
getting the skin-so-soft onto the actual disk media... it just doesn't
strike me as being that good for it (fortunatly, it isn't a very tough
thing to control because it does have the consistance of WD40 or light
weight machine oil, so it flows, but not so fast that you can't control
it).
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
> Would anyone object to adding an official 'cool factor clause' to the
> 10-year rule? We already sorta have that now, where a newer computer (e.g.
> mid-90s SGI MIPS) has sufficient cool factor that we're ok with it. All we
> need is a concept of negative cool factor, so that some computers (e.g.
> Packard Bell PC) might never be on-topic.
>
> In reality, this isn't any more ambiguous than what we already have. The
> other option would be to develop some sort of unit for classicity and set a
> threshold above which a machine is on-topic.
>
> Jeffrey Sharp
I for one obviously don't have a problem with having an official 'cool
factor clause'. After all, then my DEC PWS 433au running OpenVMS would be
ontopic, as would systems such as BeBox's and the like.
I think as a whole, systems that aren't x86 based, or Mac's that are less
than 10 years old have been considered to have suffecient 'coolness factor'.
Besides, about all that seems to cover is UNIX workstations, and OpenVMS
systems.
Also, I think 'custom built' x86 systems that have been specifically built
to emulate older hardware, such as a PDP-10 are almost ontopic.
Zane
Does anyone have manuals for these two pods? I have both of them and they've suddenly gone bad and fail self-test. Both where previously tested good and were properly stored and never used. But last week I pulled one out to use it and the self-test showed it bad before it was even connected to the UUT. Today the same thing happened with another pod! I was using them on a 9010 mainframe that I got recently and I wonder if it somehow damaged them. I can't think of any other explaination. I did verify that they are bad using another mainframe. Does anyone have any ideas? Anyone have manuals for these?
joe
Hello,
I also have a HP 9915A in my possesion. Useless without keyboard and I also
have only documentation for the HP-85.
> >There is also a little board inside that has eight sockets, four of which
> >are populated with 2732 eproms. I am wondering whether this is part of
> the
> >cpu system, or if it is for embedded program storage like the programmable
> >rom card for the 85.
>
> The later. There were software developement kits available that let you
> write programs in assembler and burn them into EPROMs that plugged into a
> HP-85 type plug-in cartridges (called a Hybrid ROM or something like that) or
> directly into the 9915. The EPROMs that are in it are probably Matrix and/or
> I/O ROM IIRC. That seems to be standard in the 9915s that I'm aware of.
This sounds like they are absolute unobtainium today? I'd better start looking
for a HP-85, only they seem to want quite some money when I see them on
eBay :).
> FYI The 9915 doesn't use the HP-85 custom hybrid processor but uses an
> Intel CPU instead! However it does use the HP-85 keyboard processor but only
> for the timers that it contains.
Are you sure? I must take a look at my machine then.. What kind of processor
is in there?
> >I presume that I can hook up a disk with an hp-ib card (and rom), so it
> >should be usable once I find a keyboard and appropriate monitor.
>
> Correct. With the keyboard and monitor it should act exactly like a HP-85
> (except your's doesn't have the tape drive). But it's a lot easier to find a
> HP 85, 86 or 87.
I've always assumed you can't hook up a disk since there is are no disk
routines in ROM?
greetings,
Michiel
Hello,
Some time ago I got a couple of Intergraph Clipper machines. The 2000's are
running great now (I even bought extra memory of eBay :), but I'm still having
some troubles with my Interpro 125.
When I got it, it was without a hard drive. So I put in a scsi drive and tried
to restore the OS with the boot floppies. There is a set of 5 floppies and a
program in the ROM that asks for DISK 1 trhough 5 for restoring CLIX. This
program runs fine, however about halfway (sometimes I got up to disk 4)
a 'screensaver' (the sliding intergraph) kicks in and I'm back to the boot-up
screen. I've tried turning off the screensaver in the prom, but it still
happens :(. Does anyone have an idea what to do or the cause of what is
happening? I've tried tapping keys and moving the mouse, but this doesn't seem
to help..
greetings,
Michiel
