Hi,
Does anyone have BASIC SP-5025 for the Sharp MZ-80K?
If so, would you be willing to make a duplicate for me, or (if you've no
longer got the machine) part with the original?
I'd also be interested in any other hardware/software/manuals for this
computer.
Thanks in advance!
Cheers!
Ade.
--
B-Racing: B where it's at :-)
http://www.b-racing.co.uk
At 01:19 PM 8/1/01 -0700, you wrote:
>> From what I understand, every conductor must be capable of carrying a
>> current greater than the breaker that protects it. Otherwise, the cord
>would
>> be the first thing thing to fail in a overcurrent situation. This would
>> present a very significant fire danger.
>
>In the context of building wiring, yes. Not in the context of appliance
>wiring. 22GA zip cord, such as found on US lamps, isn't capable of
>sustaining 20A@115V without heating -- and you can certainly plug a
You have to look at it from the viewpoint of the load.
For a receptacle, its wiring back to the box must be capable of
handling the maximum load that can be plugged into it.
For a lamp, or anything else plugged into a receptacle,
the wiring must be capable of handling the device load.
In the case of a lamp, 100W, 150W tops.
You could get the right/wrong adapters and plug a table saw into
the lamp socket, which would probably fry the zip cord if the saw
could draw enough juice to start in the first place.
From: John Allain <allain(a)panix.com>
>Make sure any big Caps are discharged (actually, I'd avoid PSU's as
>well), Otherwise, the materials used are all impermeable to water.
at least HV SMPS! THose have enough high volts on the high side caps
that discharge first is the rule.
>Metal rust takes a few days in water to really begin and modern plastics
>are waterproof, etc.
Water does not cause rust for the most part, oxygen does! However
if the water has any impurities or even soaps in it there is a risk of
electrolisys (so, wash and dry quickly).
>I wash in a tub of water to avoid the high temperature steam.
>As for drying, I do a sort of toweling off, usually with paper towels,
then
>air dry for safety, 1~2 days.
I put them in the dishwasher on the power saving setting (no reheater).
I've done boards like MVII cpu, Qbus RAM, PDP-8f front pannel and
most of the boards (not the core board, loose cores would be ripped off)
I deemed too dircty for dusting. Success is assured as commercial
cleaners for electronics assembly do that.
Over the years (20+) Ive done this and it's a great way to degrunge the
nastiest (esp cigarett smoke). It's a most do for any electronics that
has
had salt exposure (Salt eats metals!) as it tend to remain even after
dried
does become hydroscopic leading to long term problems.
Key things:
Not too hot. How hot it too hot? 200f (100c) or cooler is safe.
most Semiconductors (transistors, diodes, ICs) will safely stand
150c (at the junction) so that is the way to hot point.
once cleaned rinse well if any soaps were used.
Isopropanal can be used to dry (dewater) but it must be 95%
or better. Rubbing Alchohol is usually either 70% or 91% with
the
rest being... water!
Dry as soon as possible and throughly. A 190F (87) oven works
well or blow dry.
If there are any moving parts, lubricate as required with the
correct
oil (or grease).
Paper, temperature sensitive plastics and any suspect items like
closed
but not sealed items (relays, some switches) may need closer
attention
to insure they dont get wet.
Oh yes, a note on dry brushes or vacuums... remember you may be
generating
static and even TTL can suffer long term damage from low level ESD.
Allison
> Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 11:07:12 +0200
> From: "Hans Franke" <Hans.Franke(a)mch20.sbs.de>
> Subject: Re: Newsweek mentions VCFe and Sellam
>
> investment (*2). Now there come in the few systems where a price
> may be obtained, reasonable higher than average: e.g. Chicklet
> PET, Altair, SOL, IMSAI, etc. And these are the systems where
> investment outside of the hobby scene may take place. As a
In that case I'll consider myself extremely lucky that someone has donated a
chiclet PET 2001-8 to the museum with software, schematics and manuals and
all it hopefully needs is a few RAM chips swapping. I've also been offered 2
other 2001-8's, one in supposedly mint condition and another in not as good
condition as the donated one, and both were round the ukp100 mark.
Keep up the collecting,
adrian/witchy
www.binarydinosaurs.co.uk - the Online Computer Museum
0:OK, 0:1
In a message dated 8/2/01 12:02:39 PM Pacific Daylight Time, gessler(a)ucla.edu
writes:
> I just acquired the shell of an IMSAI 8080 and am looking for:
> Red and Blue switch toggles.
>
Jim Willing has the Red and Blue toggles. You can contact him through his web
site.
<A HREF="http://www.rdrop.com/~jimw/">Jim's Computer Garage (museum)</A>
Paxton
Astoria, OR
I just acquired the shell of an IMSAI 8080 and am looking for:
Red and Blue switch toggles.
Front bezel.
Aluminum cover.
Can anyone suggest any sources?
Thanks,
Nick
Does anyone have any timing info for the DRV11-WA / DR11-W cards?
I am working on a Microvax II to send and collect data from a serial link
used in the CF-18 aircraft (The box is real, but it is sitting in the lab!).
I am modifying the XADRIVER provided by DEC to customize to my needs. I am
having a few problems however...
The ATTN bit does not seem to latch in the CSR when I pulse the ATTN line.
Further, if I pulse it withing a few microseconds of a transfer and the
transfer was < 3 words long, I miss the interrupt. (The IE bit is always
set)
Further, if send several QIO calls via my application program, it seems that
there is an awfully large gap between the transfers (250 us to 2 ms) , yet
my system is basically sitting idle. I can't figure out if it's the OS
holding up the IRPs or if there is a problem elsewhere...
Help!
Eric Everton
Avionics Simulation Specialist
Dept. 49
Eric.Everton(a)cae.com
(450) 476-4484
On Aug 2, 10:09, Bill Bradford wrote:
> Did you just tell me to put CIRCUIT BOARDS in the *DISHWASHER*? Or
> do I still have a fever and am delirious.. ?
That's a common method of cleaning boards. I've done it many times. How
do you think they're cleaned commercially, when they're made? The only
thing to watch for are paper labels (part numbers or QC stickers) stuck on
the chips or PCB.
> I've always thought that water was the mortal enemy of anything
electronic,
> at least while power was applied. 8-)
So long as you remove all the water (and anything dissolved in it) before
applying power, what's the problem?
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
> I don't recall it. What is it and when did it come out?
It's "Three carburetors", and I'm clueless as to who
it's done by... however, the flip side of the single
(45rpm) was "Smoke! Smoke! Smoke that Cigarette":
Well, I'm a cat with a heart of gold,
With the ways of a lover, I've been told,
So laid back I couldn't even hurt a flee.
But if me and certain character met,
The that invented the cigarette
I'd chew that man out to the third degree
It's not like I don't dig that scene myself
Like, I keep a carton on the shelf
I smoke them Filter Kings, and I ain't dead yet.
dah-dah-dah-dah-dha-dah-dah-dah (forgotten lyrics)
dah-dah-dah-dah-dha-dah-dah-dah (forgotten lyrics)
I just gotta have another cigarette!
Chorus:
Smoke! Smoke! Smoke That cigarette!
<nasal tenor> Smoke! Smoke! Smoke until you smoke yourself to death!
dah-dah-dah-dah-dha-dah-dah-dah (different forgotten lyrics)
dah-dah-dah-dah-dha-dah-dah-dah (different forgotten lyrics)
<nasal tenor> I said now Daddy Daddy smoke that cigarette!
<insert another great walking saxomophone bridge here>
-dq
> > Did you just tell me to put CIRCUIT BOARDS in the *DISHWASHER*? Or
> > do I still have a fever and am delirious.. ?
>
> I've never been able to bring myself to do that myself, but I know
>of several people who swear by that method.
>
I usually dip the boards in a mild solution of "Simple Green", wash with a
soft paint brush, then rinse with warm water. Just stand 'em on edge to
drain or blow-dry with a hair dryer. They come out looking like new and seem
to work just fine.
I found a TRS MODEL 16 that had been in a chicken coop for 5 or 6 years. Let
me tell ya, that sucker was nasty. Sprayed it down with the solution, rinsed
with a garden hose, plugged it in. Works just fine and it has a clean
"Citrus" smell to it.
NOTE: I did have to relube the moving parts in the floppies but, that's all.
SteveRob
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