--- Aaron Christopher Finney <af-list(a)wfi-inc.com> wrote:
> That's exactly what my friend did - ground away *carefully* with a dremel
> until it was exposed.
>
> Jeff (Technoid) on this list mentioned in the Sun NVRAM thread that he'd
> done this successfully...maybe he's got some practical advice for you.
> On Sat, 8 Apr 2000, Tony Duell wrote:
>
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > Heard of few getting into theirs to hook into a new battery when
> > > the old battery expired.
I have done this on a 48T02 for my SPARC2. I did it at one end of the
chip and I cut *through* the leads going up to the battery to disconnect
it from the SRAM entirely. After I exposed the leads, I soldered on a
9V battery cable which I snapped onto a 9V battery top (removed from a
dead battery), into which I soldered a 3V lithium battery that had solder
leads already bonded to it (scavenged from a dead board of some kind).
I placed all the active bits in a small ziploc baggie for insulation and
closed up the case. I do have a replacement 48T02 on order ($15 from Mouser),
but for now, I'm running.
-ethan
=====
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> Since I only have v1.1 to examine and it doesn't have a DR notice,
>maybe that's why there's a v1.1 :-).
Exactly! That is why I said V1.0. finding a copy of 1.0 is the challenge.
There are other signatures. Check the bytes following all the RET
instructions. as there were some funnies there. Keep in mind you
have to look in the BDOS for all this as the BIOS is customer code
and the CCP is also modifyable. In DOS most of that is embedded
in the command.com.
Allison
>> This was the smaller BA23? if so then the slot next to the m7516 is the
>> bus grant break
>I Thought on the BA123-bus the first 4 quad slots had an AB/CD
>configuration but I'll try this one.
See the excerpted comment from the earlier message.
The BA23 and BA123 differ in the number of Q/CD slots with the BA123
having more.
Allison
I'm looking for a good spot to call home for my classiccmp related web pages
(lotsa images&scans). I'd love to get it all under ARSDigitia ala
http://photo.net but last time I checked, it required a Sun/AOLServer/Oracle
trinity, so a few megabytes and a cool name will do... Oh yeah, free would
be nice too. ;)
Any suggestions?
Thanks
- Mike: dogas(a)leading.net
I don't *think* this is OT, I don't see any IC date codes newer than '89...
Is anyone here familiar with the inner workings of a Kennedy 9662 tape
drive? FWIW, I think the 9610/9612/9660/9662 are all essentially the same
drive, depending on the combination of {rack mount vs. table top} and {Pertec
vs. SCSI}.
My problem is, the drive keeps giving "TAK ARM?" errors, which according
to the manual, means there's some problem with the takeup arm (i.e. the
motor-driven arm which has the takeup pulley on it). I've been all through
the manual section on how to adjust the various relevant sensors and I *think*
I've got it more or less happy. I fiddled with the height of the capacitive
disk thingy (which evidently is what encodes the arm position for the on-board
micro), it was way off but now I'm getting more or less the voltage spread
that the manual asks for and the "zero" position does give 0.0V.
But I'm totally stuck with what to do next, partly because there are some
differences between my drive and what's in the manual. The manual claims
that there's a mechanical limit adjustment, but there's nothing in the
area where the arrow points (it's not even visible on their sketch so I
don't know what they mean here). The cam that drives the micro switch to
set the limit of arm travel is nothing like what's in the book, I've been
dinking with its set screw trying to move the limit one way or the other
but the same mechanism seems to be what drives the *actual* mechanical limit
(there's one peg which pushes another) and I don't seem to have independent
control over them -- maybe that's on purpose since the manual wants the
switch limit set a fixed angle past the mechanical limit (I would think
they'd want it the other way around though???).
Anyway I have no idea what to do next, is this familiar territory for any
of you folks? FWIW the drive gave the same message when I first got it, but
after I randomly poked and prodded around the takeup arm a bit it magically
started working. So of course I'm suspicious that the actual problem is just
a flakey connector or something (I've wiggled them all again) and not the
mechanical adjustment at all, although as I say the range that the encoder
was giving was all wrong. Unless it's actually my manual that's all wrong.
I'd really like to bring this thing back to live, it was a wonderful
tape drive.
Thanks,
John Wilson
D Bit
Y'all may recall I wrote a couple weeks back about needing an NEC APC
to try to read these disks that a geophysicist sent me so Guatemala can
find all their precious resources.
Fast forward a few weeks: I spent an hour or so digging around my
warehouse and managed to locate and then extricate the NEC APC I
had. Tonight I finally got around to checking it out again (I got it over 4
years ago and when I played with it then I couldn't get anything to come
up on it). Well tonight I was fiddling with it and realized the brightness
knob was turned all the way down. It turns out this thing works after all!
The system came with 2 disks in the drives when I received it. One in
the A drive is labeled "SYS" and the other in the B drive something else,
it's not important, since the system is trying to boot from A.
When I first turn it on, the upper lefthand corner of the screen shows
"[LOD]" and the disk light comes on. Actually, there are two red LEDs
per drive. The bottom light is always on, and it seems when it's reading
a disk the top one turns on. It tries the A drive and then displays "[LOD
C]" and momentarily accesses the B drive. Then I get "[LER]".
So I need to know what this all means. I'm assuming that either the
disks are bad or the drive heads are dirty. Of course there may be
something worse going on but I'm an optimist (mostly).
So I could use the following if you've got it:
a) information from the system manuals that explain the boot process.
I've got the manuals but there is no way in hell I'd be able to find them
without a full-scale re-organization of my warehouse, which I hope to do
in my lifetime but definitely don't have the time for right now.
b) a known good copy of a system disk.
This is an NEC APC model APC-H02. The floppies are 8".
Any help will be greatly appreciated and if we are successful with getting
the data off you will be given credit for your assistance!! Remember,
goats and village women!
As ever, please reply directly to me as I am not subscribed to
ClassicCmp.
sellam(a)vintage.org
Sellam International Man of Intrigue and Danger
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Looking for a six in a pile of nines...
VCF Europe: April 29th & 30th, Munich, Germany
VCF Los Angeles: Summer 2000 (*TENTATIVE*)
VCF East: Planning in Progress
See http://www.vintage.org for details!
finally success !!!
With only the CPU and the memory boards and the RDQ3 in the system I was
able
to boot into VMS 5.5. Had to reboot with "b /1" and "set uafalternate 1" to
circumvent the
login but it worked.
Now let's start some serious learning about VMS ;-)
Tomorrow we'll see about the other boards and the batteries are propably
gone
but those things seem manageble now
thanx everyone for the help
sipke
I'm CC'ing this to classiccmp and port-vax because what I have is
pertinent to anyone using rackmount hardware (or VME boards).
Both items are LOCAL PICKUP ONLY, Kent, Washington (southeast of Seattle).
NON-FREEBIE... Asking $50.00 or best offer.
Five-foot tall enclosed equipment rack for 19" hardware. Cosmetically OK,
some scratching of the paint, no dents or drops that I can see.
Rails front and back are pre-drilled and tapped for standard 10-32 screws.
Has 'wiremold' brand plug strip mounted along one side to the rear, and a
humongous (12" at least) cooling fan in the bottom.
Said fan draws air through a removable/cleanable aluminum-mesh filter on
the bottom/front, then blows it up from the bottom of the cabinet. It's
noisy, but it moves a load of air! The power cord for said fan was frayed
and cracking, so I cut it off. Can be easily replaced.
It's on wheels, and includes a magnetic-latch rear door. Black/Light Tan
color scheme.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
FREE TO A GOOD HOME...
Charles River Data Systems VME Chassis, Rackmount (std. 19"), with slides.
Eight-slot, if I recall correctly, big beefy power supply, plenty of I/O
connectors, and space to mount hard drives (5.25 or 3.5, your choice).
Heck, I think I may even have the key for the keyswitch up front.
If you buy the rack, and then decide you want the chassis, great. If not,
said chassis is a first-come, first-served freebie.
Thanks much!
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Bruce Lane, Owner and head honcho, Blue Feather Technologies
http://www.bluefeathertech.com // E-mail: kyrrin(a)bluefeathertech.com
Amateur Radio: WD6EOS since Dec. '77
"Our science can only describe an object, event, or living thing in our
own human terms. It cannot, in any way, define any of them..."
Yes, decidedly off topic but I intend for this msg to be the initial
contact for answers to my questions. This shall be discussed further
off-list, not here.
I hope there are one or more folks who read this who've worked on or at
least been around old time race cars which used Sun Tachometers and have an
answer to the following:
I'm trying to restore a Sun Tachometer Transmitter for a friend who's
furiously trying to finish his 1953-vintage Kurtis Kraft race car
restoration project before the upcoming AACA show season. It is a
magneto-type ignition system and he's found a used Transmitter. Model
number is EB37, MAGneto type and it is hung off a Ford Flathead V8.
There are two batteries mounted inside the unit, obviously because often
race cars with magneto ignition have no need of a battery whether it be 6V
or 12V. They _look_ like NiCd cells, maybe 600-800 mAh capacity, but I'm
not 100% sure. This unit is from back in the late 1950's and has a "1058"
rubber-stamped in orange ink on the back of the case - I suspect Oct, 1958.
Would anybody be able to confirm if these are indeed NiCd cells? Reason I'm
not sure is I haven't found when NiCd batteries actually came into use and
I believe they are a 60's invention, not 50's which this Sun unit evidently
dates to. If not NiCd, what are they?
Thanks for your time!
Regards, Chris
-- --
Christian Fandt, Electronic/Electrical Historian
Jamestown, NY USA cfandt(a)netsync.net
Member of Antique Wireless Association
URL: http://www.antiquewireless.org/
