On Mar 24, 19:24, Aaron Christopher Finney wrote:
> Does anyone happen to have, in some vast catacombs of old manuals/docs,
> the jumper info for a Panasonic JU-475-2GRJ 5 1/4" floppy drive? Or maybe
> you can shed some light on what the following sections/jumpers might do?
>
> DS/MX
> DO/DC
> LR/RD
> DD/IX/SP
> AT/AX
> BX/CX
> HM/HS/HL
> MS/MM/HA/OA/DA
I had a similar problem with my Panasonic drive. It's a slighlty different
suffix, but here's what I got when I phoned their tech support:
==============================================================================
Panasonic JU-475-2.AGG 5.25" DD/HD (Tech.Support 01344 853508, head office
01924 821010)
MX DS multiplex/drive-select
DS1..DS4 Drive Select
AT AX dual density control: AX latches it on DSn
BX CX dual speed control: BX = 2-speed, CX = 360, open = 300
IRD Internal READY signal
DD IX SP indicate DISK CHANGED on DSn/Index/Step
HM HS HL head load with motor-on/select/in-use
MS MM motor start with select/motor-on
HA OA DA UA activity LED with (select and in-use)/(select or
in-use)/select/(latch function, in-use)
1M force 1MB size (ie, not HD)
JX force high speed only
HH head load with select
GX enable true READY on read-data
FX enable true READY on index
DR ready enable on select
DO ?? door open ??
DC disk changed
LR
RDY READY
NO AR (no)Auto Recall (factory testing)
PR factory test
44 64 cylinder precomp for factory test
MN factory test
MSE factory test
==============================================================================
And for interest (OK, mostly mine!) here's some other drive info from my
meagre file. If anyone cares to expand upon it for my colection, I'd be
grateful for any recieved wisdom:
==============================================================================
Teac FD-55-BVU 5.25"
set DS1, U2, FG. Remove READY, link XT.
==============================================================================
Teac FD55-FB for XT 5.25"
DS1 HM SM IU
cut READY; MSDOS uses this for DISK-CHANGED
==============================================================================
Teac FD55-GFV-17 5.25" DD/HD
DS1 FG HG II DC U2
for 360K use DS1 FG LG I DC U2 and remove R19
==============================================================================
Mitsubishi MF504C-310MP 5.25" DD/HD
PC-AT/386 link settings; names are conjecture
IP no pins
SG
SB closed 300/360 rpm
SS 300 rpm only
NO
DS0
DS1 closed
DS2
MX
DS3
DD
HR
IL
IS
MM closed motor start with MotorOn
MS motor start with Select
IR internal Ready?
IU In Use?
RI closed
RD closed Ready?
DC closed Disk Changed? then why RD and DC both made?
SR Speed Ready?
==============================================================================
M4854-35 5.25" DD/HD
use DS0-3 as usual; MX = always selected
HS HM HC HL : HEAD LOAD with select/motor-on/normal/in-use
MM MS : MOTOR START with motor-on/select
DC 2S : link both for DISK CHANGED
SS SB : SS = 360 rpm; SB = 300/360 rpm
I think FG is FRAME GROUND
DC DISK CHANGED (instead of READY?)
2S double sided ?
==============================================================================
NEC FD1055 5.25" HD/DD -- settings for BBC Micro
DCG: 2
USE: 2
HDE: 2
LUS: 1 Note LUS, MON, HS, LED : unclear which pins the labels refer to
HS: 1
LED: 1,5
==============================================================================
NEC FD1138H 3.5" HD/DD
No jumpers visible
==============================================================================
Unmarked 5.25" 40-trk Asia Commercial FD108
solder joint for READY
has 2 LEDs
6-way shunt, ??/DS0/DS1/DS2/DS3/MUX set 101000 for AT
==============================================================================
Fujitsu M2551A.28 5.25" 40-trk
RDY link
==============================================================================
Fuji FDD5883AOK (Toshiba) 5.25" HD/DD
TM (made)
PS (made)
LD
D4/3/2/1
MUX
(link on interface pin2 to GND forces DD, disables HD)
DE/DX (made DX) speed fixed-at-fast/depends-on-pin-2 (low=slow)
SR
DC (made)
==============================================================================
TEC ND-352-TH-A 3.5" DD-only
has 0-ohm link for RDY/DC
DS0/1/2/3 selection
OK on BBC Micro
==============================================================================
Brother FB-620V 3.5" DD-only (OK side 0; won't write side 1 but reads OK)
==============================================================================
TEC ND-356-TA 3.5" DD/HD
OK on BBC with DS0 and pin2/?? don't care
links DS0/DS1/TZ/??
TZ connects to pin2 (open seems to be OK for DD on BBC)
0-ohm link for RDY/DC
==============================================================================
YE Data YD-702-6037 3.5" DD/HD
DS0/1/2/3 slide switch
P1 closed:LED with inuse or select; open: LED with select and motoron
P2 closed disable LED?
JP1 connects pin 2
==============================================================================
TEAC FD235-HF 3.5" DD/HD
HHO
OP
LHI pin2 low = HD, high = DD ??
HHI pin2 low = DD, high = HD ??
normal setting seems to be OP and HHI closed; works on 286/386/486dx/BBC
or OP closed; works on Carole's 386 and my Intel
486sx
tends to give verify hiccups on tracks 9/19/29 etc on BBC
OP+LHI works on 286
BBC: pin2 to GND else set LHI
==============================================================================
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Dept. of Computer Science
University of York
I picked up an Apple Harddisk 20SC and an Apple tape backup 40SC today.
Which Apples will these work on? Do you need any specail software or
hardware to use them?
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike <dogas(a)leading.net>
To: Discussion re-collecting of classic computers
<classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu>
Date: Thursday, 25 March 1999 5:13
Subject: Re: Museums
>I would also imagine the museum brick and morter will have to be
>electronically shielded to allow things like trs-80 mod 1s to operate in a
>commercial zone.
You're kidding, right? I can't believe even US silly rules are that silly.
Cheers
Geoff Roberts
Computer Systems Manager
Saint Mark's College
Port Pirie, South Australia.
Email: geoffrob(a)stmarks.pp.catholic.edu.au
ICQ #: 1970476
Phone: 61-8-8633-8834
Mobile: 61-411-623-978
Fax: 61-8-8633-0104
At 10:58 AM 3/21/99 -0800, you wrote:
>You first need to think about how the ebay
>auction format results in higher than reasonable prices (since you seem to
>have ignored all the arguments I've made to this point) and then see if
I seem to have missed the reasons why eBay intrinsicly results in inflated
prices. As far as I can tell, the reasons mentioned so far for high prices
on eBay are:
1) idiots who don't know they can or are too lazy to find computers cheap at
out-of-the-way places only open on Fridays
2) idiots who have too much money
3) too many idiots who want the same stuff as us geniuses
4) bidders who maliciously bid excessively to artificially raise selling
prices so that the hated seller has to pay higher fees to eBay
5) eBay wants items to sell for higher prices
6) unsrupulous sellers who shill bid to increase prices (raising the bids of
the folks mentioned in #2)
Anything I missed?
>at least 3 years know that what something sells for on ebay is ridiculous
>compared to what its really worth.
Well, I've been involved with various collectibles for nearly 30 years, and
I have to agree. I bought two Chein tin wind-up Donald Ducks last fall
through eBay for ridiculous prices -- about 25% of what I could have turned
around and sold them for at any antique show.
And the Sharp PC-5000 I got for $15 was pretty ridiculous, considering the
significance of the machine.
>Think of it this way: if a toy stuffed with beans that cost a couple
>dollars to manufacture were to be made for sale in a way which makes
>people perceive a scarcity, and that toy was then subsequently priced up
>to $1000 because of dealers and price speculators feeding on the perceived
>scarcity of that toy, is it really worth $1000? Don't answer that yet.
>Now fast forward a couple years in time and the market runs its course,
>people are fed up with this toy and don't care about it anymore. The fad
>is over, the bottom of the market drops out, and the last sorry asshole to
>pay $1000 for a toy stuffed with beans is left holding an item worth maybe
>$50 to the person who still hasn't caught on that it was all just an
>irrational frenzy to begin with.
Hmmm... Sounds like numismatics in the 80's, gold and silver at various
times, collector plates, etc., etc., etc. And your point is?
Speculators who buy based on fads are idiots. "Buy the book before you buy
the coin." Smart folks do their homework before spending a lot of money.
No matter what the "investment opportunity!" is, those that get in before
it hits big and get out at the peak make a lot of money. Those that don't,
don't. (Think back to around 1929...)
Btw, I still don't have a Commodore SX-64, one of the few portable versions
of an 8-bit home machine, in my collection. There have been a lot up for
bid on eBay, but they all seem to sell for just over $100. (The same price
as they were going for at VCF 2.0, btw.) That's more than I'm willing to
pay for a Commodore 64, no matter how portable. On the other hand, I put
out close to $300 for 2 Zorba's (with Shipping from the east coast) that I
got through eBay. I don't think that that's a ridiculous price to pay for
a rather uncommon machine. (Especially since I'm getting manuals and
software, plus a couple of Kaypros, an IBM portable, and a couple of other
goodies to go with it.)
--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-
Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad
roger(a)sinasohn.com that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California http://www.sinasohn.com/
>> I picked up an Apple Harddisk 20SC and an Apple tape backup 40SC today.
>> Which Apples will these work on? Do you need any specail software or
>> hardware to use them?
>
>SC means SCSI so will work on mac plus and later. you'll need sw for the TBU.
>for hard drive, just set the ID and termination if needed, and go. if the
>hard drive is set to boot id, (0, IIRC) and has a system folder, the mac will
boot
>from it.
'0' is the id Apple traditionally uses for the internal hard drive,
though it doesn't have to be. A Mac can boot from a SCSI HD with and id
setting (eg. I've booted a Mac Plus off a Zip drive, which can only be
set to id 5 or 6). If the hard drive doesn't have a System Folder, you
should be able to just copy one off a boot floppy. This will usually
work, though you'll have a very minimal system.
Tom Owad
In a message dated 99-03-24 19:37:05 EST, you write:
> I picked up an Apple Harddisk 20SC and an Apple tape backup 40SC today.
> Which Apples will these work on? Do you need any specail software or
> hardware to use them?
>
SC means SCSI so will work on mac plus and later. you'll need sw for the TBU.
for hard drive, just set the ID and termination if needed, and go. if the hard
drive is set to boot id, (0, IIRC) and has a system folder, the mac will boot
>from it.
david
At 05:35 PM 3/19/99 -0800, Sam wrote:
>On Fri, 19 Mar 1999, Fred Cisin (XenoSoft) wrote:
>
>> 2) boot disk for a Diskon (sp?) It's a CP/M (I think) system built into
>> a Televideo terminal housing. It's primary claim to fame is spport for a
>> LOT of alternate disk formats (my specialty)
>
>Is this the same as the Televideo 802? It sounds exactyly as you
>describe. I just picked up the computer but no disks came with it
>unfortunately.
I don't think so. I have a service manual for the 802 and it lists the
parts for both the 802 and 806 and none of the major parts are the same.
I'm still like to find a 802.
Joe
Kits appeal to a much smaller segment of the market. Here in the US,
selling kits offers a way to avoid having to meed stringent FCC
specifications for electromegnetic interference, among other things. For
that reason, if I were going to get into the business of selling a product,
I'd let the initial kit sales pay for getting past the FCC testing/approval
procedures. That way there would already be kit users out there to assist
and teach ready-built product users so I would not have to do that.
Kits are often more costly than ready-built products because kit builders
fix their mistakes, while you can't expect the user of ready-made stuff to
fix your mistakes. Tech support is a necessity, yet most kit builders don't
need it. Tech support is what costs when you're selling a ready-built
product for the home computer market.
What scares me about the notion of resurrecting the really old IMSAI product
line is that some of the designs, and this is more true of ALTAIR than of
IMSAI, by the way, took the characteristics of the logic family they were
using, mostly standard TTL, into consideration and would probably suffer
>from glitches and other timing race conditions e.g. metastability if
current-generation and available pin-compatible HCMOS or LSTTL logic were
substituted. This probably wouldn't be too common, but I've done this (long
ago) when these logic families were new, and had mixed-to-poor results.
Mostly this was the result of placing a fast decoder where a slow one had
previously been specified, and mostly the result was not serious except
where one-shots (YUCHK!) and clocked logic were driven by it. This was
particularly true in DRAM circuit interfaces.
Dick
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Duell <ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk>
To: Discussion re-collecting of classic computers
<classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu>
Date: Wednesday, March 24, 1999 5:01 PM
Subject: Re: Rebirth of IMSAI
>> That's exactly why people don't build kits any more. The price so the
>> individual parts is higher than the cost of the commercaily assembled
>
>There are plenty of reasons for building kits other than the fact it
>might be cheaper than a finished product (and I agree, that's unlikely
>these days) :
>
>1) Most kits come with _much_ better documentation that the finished
>unit. It's rare to get an electronic kit without a schematic, for example.
>
>2) Since you assembled it, you know how to take it to bits for repair.
>
>3) You also know it was assembled correctly. Many finished devices that
>I've seen recently were full of dry joints, misfitted parts, etc.
>
>4) It's a lot easier to modify a kit.
>
>5) You probably learn something from making a kit.
>
>6) It's fun :-)
>
>In case you hadn't guessed, some of us _do_ still build kits, and do
>plenty of other things that make no financial sense at all ;-)
>
>> finished product. You need to find a surplus case that you can use.
That
>> would save a lot of money. Ditto the power supply and as many other parts
>> as possible.
>
>If I ever produce a computer kit (unlikely, as in the UK, kits have to
>meet the same EU directives as the finished unit..), I'd probably offer
>at least 4 versions :
>
>1) Docs only (you get to find all the components, etch PCBs, etc)
>
>2) Complete kit, including case, PSU parts, connectors, fixings, etc.
>
>3) PCB + components only. Everything that goes on the PCBs and nothing
>else. Well, I might include the mating parts for the connectors, but no
>off-board components, metalwork, etc.
>
>4) 'Rare parts kit'. PCBs + programmed ICs (EPROMs, PICs, etc) + any
>other chips that are hard to get.
>
>-tony
>
As anyone who follows any of my posts knows, I'm a dedicate Commie
collector-freak. Well, today I scored the jackpot. Went to Glenorchy Tip
Shop, one of the women that works there grabbed me & took me out the
back (no, my luck hadn't changed) & said "I've been keeping something
for you". Some business that had been holding old Commodore inventory
dumped 12 removalist boxes (tea chest size) on 'em.... For $50 I
scored 6 1571's, 3 1581's, 4 Commodore 128D's, three more 64C's, several
CBM modems (1670's), around 40 cartridges, two more MPS 803 printers,
two VIC 20's, two Xetec CBM to Centronics adaptors & a multitude of VIC,
C64 & C128 software.... everything was still boxed & plastic
wrapped....
This'll keep me happy for ..... ohhh.... a week or two :-)
(Time to open a Commodore museum I reckon, the house no longer has any
room ....... & my partner is threatening to move out.... oh well, the
'puter are more entertaining anyway.....)
cheers,
Lance
