Apologies to all for my last posting - I hit the wrong button.
In answer to Tony's question - lots of 'interesting' machines, in that it
has a copy of the US Government's 1953 supercomputer survey - verbatim.
That is, about 3 lines of information for each.
Don't you wish, sometimes, that you could recall an email!
A
--
> > Did it include any 'interesting' machines, or was it the standard
> > Apple1/Altair 'history' ?
> >
> > ['Interesting' == a machine not known about - in detail - by
> most members
> > of this list]
> >
> > -tony
> >
> >
Hey, I like old radios too. I got my start with tube short-wave radios about
the time the transistor was invented. I took a Hallicrafter S-40B to 4-H
summer camp and strung a long wire antenna. I still travel with a short-wave,
a Sony ICF2002 and a wire antenna.
However this is a classic computer forum so I will ask computer questions. Is
there a web site or inventory of early Russian computers like the Russian
Calculator site run by our fellow friend AD? Was there a system similar to
SAGE? (I loved Jim Willings pictures.) What is the history of the early
Russian computer development like?
I also liked the report back to the list of contact with the posters. If
anyone ends up doing business with them I would love to see that also.
Paxton
On Mon, 28 Dec 1998 roblwill(a)usaor.net wrote:
> Hi!
>
> I was wondering if anyone knows the init string for the Mac Portable
> Internal 2400 baud modem.
>
> ThAnX,
What terminal program have you tried using? According to the manual, you
must select "internal modem" in the "portable" control panel.
----------------------------------------------------
Max Eskin | kurtkilgor(a)bigfoot.com | AOL: kurtkilgor
Price, or something. The 8086 was the same thing as an 8088, but with a
<full 16-bit bus, which was important for almost everything in those days
<(IE before you had an on-chip cache for frequently used operations, an on
<chip FPU for 3D/math, and all kinds of stuff like that.)
The 808x series has what was fairly new then a prefetch cache though of
very limited size. Caches on chip grew in use when the fab technology
could cram enough on a die to permit a larger one.
Allison
>Most likely you either shorted the mains side of the PSU to something on
>the secondary side, or you messed up the regulation circuitry, probably
>the former. The damage sounds like what you'd expect with 110V on a board
>of TTL...
>
>Ouch!. It's even possible that you've blown chips in the printer....
>
The one paper clip fell across the little clip that supplies 110v to the
main PSU. That's what blew the breaker. I tested the printer on my Tandy
1000, and it still works.
>There are 2 power supplies in the Model 3 - one on the side of the drive
>tower, one on the front of the logic cage. Which one got zapped ? The one
>on the drive tower supplies the drives and the FDC board, the one on the
>logic cage supplies the CPU board, RS232 board and video board.
>
Neither. The main M/B got zapped. I can power it up w/o MB in it, the
video lights up, and the drives go for about 1 second on power on.
>
>You might also be looking for a second PSU and drives :-(. This is a
>machine to rebuild slowly - get working PSUs (and test them on dummy
>load), then add just the CPU board and video and check that it goes into
>ROM basic correctly. Then add the floppy controller and drives. Finally
>add the RS232 board.
>
>I've fixed model3's and 4's, but never one that this has happened to.
>
Everything's fine but the CPU board and RS-232 card.
>
>A couple of other suggestions. A model 4 CPU board (non-gate array only?)
>will drop in there, and will run all model 3 software. So that's
>something to look for. The other possibility is to find a cassette-only
>model 3 or model 4 and move your (working) FDC, tower, drives and second
>PSU into in.
>
I was thinking about that, but won't I need a new keyboard, too? I really
don't want to do that, because I just rebuilt every switch (they're not the
rubber cup type) a few months ago.
>
>The upgrade is (IIRC) just adding columns of 4116 chips. Worth bring it
>up to 48K anyway when you have the case apart.
>
Well, the RAM banks on the fried board were all full, so I guess it had 48k.
--
-Jason Willgruber
(roblwill(a)usaor.net)
ICQ#: 1730318
<http://members.tripod.com/general_1>
So in other words, Intel _could_ possibly sue Apple for the iMac.....
--
-Jason Willgruber
(roblwill(a)usaor.net)
ICQ#: 1730318
<http://members.tripod.com/general_1>
-----Original Message-----
From: cswiger <cswiger(a)wilma.widomaker.com>
To: Discussion re-collecting of classic computers
<classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu>
Date: Monday, December 28, 1998 11:31 AM
Subject: x86.org
>>www.x86.org (Not an Intel friendly site), they have a copyright
>>on the letter 'I', and also 'bunny people'??
>
>I should say, the letter 'I' is a registered trademark.
>
> Chuck
> cswiger(a)widomaker.com
>
>
>
>
______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: Re: Old Radios
Author: classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu at internet
Date: 12/23/98 6:44 PM
>
> Come now comrade Griffiths, an old radio never hurt anyone.
>>>What, not even if you touch the chassis of an AA5 with wet hands?
I stand corrected. This is a good time to mention to our list members
that if they find an old tube radio, especially an AC/DC set (you can
tell this by the absence of a power transformer and a tube complement
which will equal 120 volts for total filament voltage, some even have
line cord resistors), THESE SETS ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND LETHAL,
often having the 120 hot wire soldered to the chassis. If you touch
the chassis on one of these sets wired with the hot to chassis, then
ground yourself, you'll electrocute yourself. Always use one hand only
so you don't provide a path for the current (likewise be certain you
have insulated shoes, not providing a current path anywhere on your
body). If you need to work on one of these sets, use an isolation
transformer or wire a light bulb between the set and house current
(the light bulb filiment should open before you fry, thus breaking the
circuit).
Marty
>
> Marty
-tony
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From: ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk (Tony Duell)
To: "Discussion re-collecting of classic computers"
<classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Old Radios
In-Reply-To: <1998Dec23.173845.1767.173734(a)smtp.itgonline.com> from "Marty" at
Dec 23, 98 05:40:53 pm
Content-Type: text
X-Listprocessor-Version: 8.1 beta -- ListProcessor(tm) by CREN
Chris is quite right. Sorry, the light bulb rig was a bad idea (I have
never used it but it was mentioned to me once upon a time) and I agree
the isolation transformer is definitely the ONLY way to go. Regarding
trusting a spec sheet or schematic, I wouldn't. Many sets I've come
across have been modified, often in unconventional ways.
Marty
______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: Re: AC/DC radio precautions, was Old Radios
Author: classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu at internet
Date: 12/28/98 3:31 PM
At 12:15 12/28/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
>_________________________________
>Subject: Re: Old Radios
>Author: classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu at internet
>Date: 12/23/98 6:44 PM
>
>
> >
> > Come now comrade Griffiths, an old radio never hurt anyone.
>
> >>>What, not even if you touch the chassis of an AA5 with wet hands?
> I stand corrected. This is a good time to mention to our list members
> that if they find an old tube radio, especially an AC/DC set (you can
> tell this by the absence of a power transformer and a tube complement
> which will equal 120 volts for total filament voltage, some even have
> line cord resistors), THESE SETS ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND LETHAL,
> often having the 120 hot wire soldered to the chassis. If you touch
> the chassis on one of these sets wired with the hot to chassis, then
> ground yourself, you'll electrocute yourself. Always use one hand only
> so you don't provide a path for the current (likewise be certain you
> have insulated shoes, not providing a current path anywhere on your
> body). If you need to work on one of these sets, use an isolation
These points are valid . . .
> transformer or wire a light bulb between the set and house current
> (the light bulb filiment should open before you fry, thus breaking the
> circuit).
Hold on there! An isolation transformer is the *only* way to go to
provide isolation from the line for a transformerless radio or TV.
The light bulb will NOT open (like a fuse, as the above statement infers)
but will simply pass current up to at least the wattage rating of the
filament. (100W bulb = approx 0.9 Amperes @ 115V.) A few microamperes could
be enough to kill a person under many conditions at this voltage.
The concern for inexperienced folks handling a bare chassis of a
transformerless set is nonetheless well placed and the part about the
chassis being hot (115VAC in North Amer. or 230VAC in most of the other
parts of Earth) is particularly important to be aware of. A chassis could
be hot even if the line cord is correctly plugged into the wall receptacle.
This is because a commonly used signal bypass capacitor from the hot side
to chassis often is quite leaky (simply, it has relatively low DC
resistance) or even shorted from age. I've been hit too many times while
handling these sets over the past 33 or 34 years.
As with any of us troubleshooting computer power supplies while the power
is on, *always* stuff one hand into your pocket while probing around in the
circuit.
Enough of this off topic radio stuff --although I had to post this to
correct a seriously incorrect piece of advice given above. On topic part
could be to note that using an isolation transformer while poking around in
a computer's switching power supply could make accidentally touching a few
parts in the line-side of the PSU somewhat safer.
Just being careful and focusing on where one's hands are at absolutely all
times is the safer way to go while having to work on live high voltage
circuits.
Regards, Chris
-- --
Christian Fandt, Electronic/Electrical Historian
Jamestown, NY USA cfandt(a)netsync.net
Member of Antique Wireless Association
URL: http://www.ggw.org/freenet/a/awa/
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From: Christian Fandt <cfandt(a)netsync.net>
To: "Discussion re-collecting of classic computers"
<classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: AC/DC radio precautions, was Old Radios
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Hi Marty,
At 12:15 PM 12/28/98 -0500, you wrote:
> THESE SETS ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND LETHAL,
> often having the 120 hot wire soldered to the chassis. If you touch
> the chassis on one of these sets wired with the hot to chassis, then
> ground yourself, you'll electrocute yourself. Always use one hand only
> so you don't provide a path for the current (likewise be certain you
> have insulated shoes, not providing a current path anywhere on your
> body). If you need to work on one of these sets, use an isolation
> transformer or wire a light bulb between the set and house current
> (the light bulb filiment should open before you fry, thus breaking the
> circuit).
>
> Marty
An isolation transformer is a good idea, but a light bulb is series will
only limit the current to its rating. Even with a short circuit, it will
only light at full brillance, not act as a breaker. It may protect
components in the radio, but it is no shock protection. A 40 watt bulb (a
smaller size) still has about 0.3A at 120 volts, way more than enough to
electrocute yourself if the current flows in the wrong path :(.
-Dave
>www.x86.org (Not an Intel friendly site), they have a copyright
>on the letter 'I', and also 'bunny people'??
I should say, the letter 'I' is a registered trademark.
Chuck
cswiger(a)widomaker.com
