I generally use a hand-wrapping tool to unwind
the wires. I really
don't know of an easier way to unwind them. It's tedious work but, if
you're doing small projects like I was, you can do a small area and
then cut that section from the bigger board.
I do my boards a bit differently. I use single-sided FR4 PCB,
usually 0.060" thick and drill holes for the pins and punch them in
(slighly countersinking the foil side). It's only a little more work
than using the gridded-out-lots-of-pins protoboards, but more than
makes up for it in that components are easy to identify (no "forest
of pins" effect) and presents a ground plane that's second to none.
--Chuck
Hmmm... Good Idea! Let's see... If you took a proto-board that was already
drilled on a .1" X .1" grid and placed it over the blank board, you could
use it as a guide for the fresh holes. Then the new holes would align up
exactly on the grid. If I ever start wirewrapping again, I'll give that a
try.
Or... If you used a blank board with no copper, you wouldn't need to
contersink the holes. Of course, you loose the benefits of the ground plane
but, for the stuff I'm doing, that really isn't an issue.
I recently figured out how easy it is to make PCBs at home so, now I'm
making boards as I need them. I'm still new at it but, have been able to
make some pretty decent looking boards.
Last week I figured out how to make a very simple "drill press" like
contraption for drilling boards. It works great! No more broken bits, no
more holes offset from the pads, and it was free.
My current project is a 3 axis PCB drilling machine. I'm making good
progress but, since I don't have a machine shop or a large stash of money,
the mechanical components are not easy to do.
Hope we're not getting too far off topic.
SteveRob