8 May
2013
8 May
'13
10:03 a.m.
I'm looking for a part for a Mac Studio display (and yes, I know this
doesn't qualify as "classic" but I'm trying to find a good overall
solution for this type of repair). The part that failed is a simple
piece of metal in a hinge which seems fairly well designed for
replacement. However, I've been unable to find any sources for the
particular part, Apple, etc. don't seem to have anything available.
I do see some sites that have the entire hinge assembly available in
the $18-$20 range, but I've been able to pick up entire monitors of
this type for $25, so this really doesn't seem to make sense to pay
this much for just the hinge when I could get a full set of spares (or
even yet ANOTHER working monitor with the same issue).
I'm wondering how people solve "spare/parts" issues like this. I've
posted something to http://www.shapeways.com/ to see if someone would
model the existing part, which I could then get them to fabricate.
Not sure if that's going to be cost effective either (unless I order
some quantity and sell extras with a mark up...)
Earl
p.s. A big thanks for the advise on the lubrication for the floppy
drives. I ordered some of the Drislide which works excellently. A
simple cleaning job with straight isopropyl alcohol, a couple drops,
and all three floppy drives are now working as good as new...
8 May
8 May
10:24 a.m.
As one who makes one offs for replacements of antiques,
On Wed, May 8, 2013 at 6:03 PM, Earl Baugh <earl at baugh.org> wrote:
I'm looking for a part for a Mac Studio display
(and yes, I know this
doesn't qualify as "classic" but I'm trying to find a good overall
solution for this type of repair). The part that failed is a simple
piece of metal in a hinge which seems fairly well designed for
replacement. However, I've been unable to find any sources for the
particular part, Apple, etc. don't seem to have anything available.
I do see some sites that have the entire hinge assembly available in
the $18-$20 range, but I've been able to pick up entire monitors of
As one who makes one offs for replacements of odd parts,
I can say $18-$20 does not buy much time, tooling for some production
is another kettle of fish.
I would just buy the spares if available or get out a file and
electric drill and make something.
Dave Caroline
http://gears.archivist.info/
10:43 a.m.
On May 8, 2013, at 1:24 PM, Dave Caroline <dave.thearchivist at gmail.com> wrote:
As one who makes one offs for replacements of
antiques,
On Wed, May 8, 2013 at 6:03 PM, Earl Baugh <earl at baugh.org> wrote:
A Dremel is a very effective tool for modifying bits of metal and
plastic to fit things. Sometimes a little crude, but if you're
just looking for something functional, it is handy to have around.
I've been meaning to get a new one for a long time; I'd definitely
recommend getting a corded model, because at least 10 years ago
they ate rechargeable batteries like popcorn.
- Dave
I'm looking for a part for a Mac Studio
display (and yes, I know this
doesn't qualify as "classic" but I'm trying to find a good overall
solution for this type of repair). The part that failed is a simple
piece of metal in a hinge which seems fairly well designed for
replacement. However, I've been unable to find any sources for the
particular part, Apple, etc. don't seem to have anything available.
I do see some sites that have the entire hinge assembly available in
the $18-$20 range, but I've been able to pick up entire monitors of
As one who makes one offs for replacements of odd parts,
I can say $18-$20 does not buy much time, tooling for some production
is another kettle of fish.
I would just buy the spares if available or get out a file and
electric drill and make something. 
11:36 a.m.
A Dremel is a very effective tool for modifying bits of
metal
You can borrow mine if you need one Earl. I have a relatively new one with a clamp and
drill press attachments.
I just want them back. :) (Christmas presents, my wife would kill us both)
Thanks,
Brad Arnold
President & Cofounder, Atlanta Historical Computing Society
http://www.ATLHCS.org
On May 8, 2013, at 1:47 PM, "David Riley" <fraveydank at gmail.com>
wrote:
On May 8, 2013, at 1:24 PM, Dave Caroline
<dave.thearchivist at gmail.com> wrote:
As one who makes one offs for replacements of
antiques,
On Wed, May 8, 2013 at 6:03 PM, Earl Baugh <earl at baugh.org> wrote:
A Dremel is a very effective tool for modifying bits of metal and
plastic to fit things. Sometimes a little crude, but if you're
just looking for something functional, it is handy to have around.
I've been meaning to get a new one for a long time; I'd definitely
recommend getting a corded model, because at least 10 years ago
they ate rechargeable batteries like popcorn.
- Dave
I'm looking for a part for a Mac Studio
display (and yes, I know this
doesn't qualify as "classic" but I'm trying to find a good overall
solution for this type of repair). The part that failed is a simple
piece of metal in a hinge which seems fairly well designed for
replacement. However, I've been unable to find any sources for the
particular part, Apple, etc. don't seem to have anything available.
I do see some sites that have the entire hinge assembly available in
the $18-$20 range, but I've been able to pick up entire monitors of
As one who makes one offs for replacements of odd parts,
I can say $18-$20 does not buy much time, tooling for some production
is another kettle of fish.
I would just buy the spares if available or get out a file and
electric drill and make something. 
12:19 p.m.
On Wed, 8 May 2013, David Riley wrote:
A Dremel is a very effective tool for modifying bits
of metal and
plastic to fit things. Sometimes a little crude, but if you're
just looking for something functional, it is handy to have around.
I've been meaning to get a new one for a long time; I'd definitely
recommend getting a corded model, because at least 10 years ago
they ate rechargeable batteries like popcorn.
10 years ago??!?
10 years ago, they were using NiCd batteries. Assume less than a minute
of full power per charge.
NOW, they use Lithium Ion. If you don't think that there is a difference,
then you haven't tried them.
Besdies Dremel themselves, there are as many makers of imitation dremels
as there are PC makers. Most are a bit more awkward and clumsy
than the real thing. Consider Craftsman Nextec (lithium Ion), or even
Harbor Freight ($24.99 on sale for either corded or Lithium Ion imitation
dremel with battery and flex shaft accessory!)
12:28 p.m.
On May 8, 2013, at 3:19 PM, Fred Cisin <cisin at xenosoft.com> wrote:
On Wed, 8 May 2013, David Riley wrote:
Well, I haven't tried them. But I still use my cordless drill which
uses NiCd batteries, and I'm on only its second pair of batteries in
about 10 years. I'm willing to believe that the cheap charger that
comes with the Dremel was murdering the batteries, just like the cheap
charger that came with my drill was (getting DeWalt's higher-end
"smart" charger made a world of difference and even revived the dead
ones for about a year).
A Dremel is a very effective tool for modifying
bits of metal and
plastic to fit things. Sometimes a little crude, but if you're
just looking for something functional, it is handy to have around.
I've been meaning to get a new one for a long time; I'd definitely
recommend getting a corded model, because at least 10 years ago
they ate rechargeable batteries like popcorn.
10 years ago??!?
10 years ago, they were using NiCd batteries. Assume less than a minute
of full power per charge.
NOW, they use Lithium Ion. If you don't think that there is a difference,
then you haven't tried them. Besdies Dremel themselves, there are as many makers of
imitation dremels
as there are PC makers. Most are a bit more awkward and clumsy
than the real thing. Consider Craftsman Nextec (lithium Ion), or even
Harbor Freight ($24.99 on sale for either corded or Lithium Ion imitation
dremel with battery and flex shaft accessory!)
I still prefer having a corded model available. For drills, I have
both, because there are plenty of circumstances where a cordless
drill is just essential. I suppose you could make the same case for
the Dremel, but I only ever used it at the workbench, so not for my
use cases. I probably should have led with that.
- Dave
9 May
9 May
11:11 p.m.
New subject: Corded vs cordless (was Re: Source for replacement parts?)
On 5/8/13 12:28 PM, "David Riley" <fraveydank at gmail.com> wrote:
I still prefer having a corded model available. For drills, I have
both, because there are plenty of circumstances where a cordless
drill is just essential. I suppose you could make the same case for
the Dremel, but I only ever used it at the workbench, so not for my
use cases. I probably should have led with that.
- Dave
A couple of years ago I was working with ipe, aka ironwood, and needed to
predrill holes for the fasteners. This killed my cordless DeWalt's
batteries faster than I could charge them. So I bought a corded drill for
that, and continued to use the cordless to seat the fasteners (square
drive). Much better. (PS: I went through a lot of drill bits, too. I
think the frictional heating made them brittle.) -- Ian
11:03 a.m.
10 years ago??!?
10 years ago, they were using NiCd batteries. Assume less than a minute
of full power per charge.
NOW, they use Lithium Ion. If you don't think that there is a difference,
then you haven't tried them.
Err, yes... Li-Ion batteres have this habit of catching fire if you
mis-cahrge them,,,,
I must admit I've never liked recheargeable battereis. They als seem to
have a ridiculously high self-discharge rate, so unless you use the
device all the time (and thus keep it charged) , you will find it flat when
you want to use it. I would always pick the direct-mains powered tool.
Besdies Dremel themselves, there are as many makers of imitation dremels
as there are PC makers. Most are a bit more awkward and clumsy
My expeirince that that the original Dremel has much better bearings than
any fo the knock-offs. The side play in some of the cheaper ones has ot
be seen to be believed. And the genuine Dremel accessories are better
too. Dremel cut-off disks work. Cheap copies break up withing the first
few seconds of use.
-tony
12:10 p.m.
On May 9, 2013, at 2:03 PM, ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk (Tony Duell) wrote:
I must admit I've never liked recheargeable
battereis. They als seem to
have a ridiculously high self-discharge rate, so unless you use the
device all the time (and thus keep it charged) , you will find it flat when
you want to use it. I would always pick the direct-mains powered tool.
For regular household use, the newer low-self-discharge NiMH batteries
have worked well for us. We put the AAs in C size adaptors for use in
a baby swing, and it ran the swing for a good week on a charge (not
100% duty cycle, of course, but not bad for AAs). We've been using
them for about two years now and none of them seem to be showing signs
of decreased charge life, either. I'm not sure I trust Sanyo's claim
that you can stick them in a drawer for a year and still be at 75%
capacity, but they're not as freakishly bad as the NiCd batteries of
the early '90s (which was previously my last exposure to normal
household rechargeables).
- Dave
1:13 p.m.
New subject: OT rechargeable batteries/ was Re: Source for replacement parts?
On 2013 May 9, at 12:10 PM, David Riley wrote:
On May 9, 2013, at 2:03 PM, ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk
(Tony Duell)
wrote:
Modern NiMH and Li-ion batteries are great for things like cameras
and bike lights, however I stay away from batteries for power tools,
the really annoying problem being the manufacturers (or some) have
taken the pay-through-the-nose captive-market approach for replacements.
I tried to fix a couple of Makita battery packs for a friend by
replacing some cells, but after the battery circuit was opened and
the internal controller powered down it bricked itself. There is what
appears to be a communications connector in the pack, presumably
there is a way of telling the controller to recognise the batteries,
if one knew what it was.
It occurred to me before doing the work it could do this and if I
were being really cynical-paranoid-careful I should temporarily wire
a parallel supply with isolation diode before opening the battery
circuit, but didn't bother. C'est la vie.
Friend only got two/three years out of the drill and two battery packs.
I must admit I've never liked recheargeable
battereis. They als
seem to
have a ridiculously high self-discharge rate, so unless you use the
device all the time (and thus keep it charged) , you will find it
flat when
you want to use it. I would always pick the direct-mains powered
tool.
For regular household use, the newer low-self-discharge NiMH batteries
have worked well for us. We put the AAs in C size adaptors for use in
a baby swing, and it ran the swing for a good week on a charge (not
100% duty cycle, of course, but not bad for AAs). We've been using
them for about two years now and none of them seem to be showing signs
of decreased charge life, either. I'm not sure I trust Sanyo's claim
that you can stick them in a drawer for a year and still be at 75%
capacity, but they're not as freakishly bad as the NiCd batteries of
the early '90s (which was previously my last exposure to normal
household rechargeables).
10 May
10 May
1:10 p.m.
New subject: OT rechargeable batteries/ was Re: Source for replacement parts?
Modern NiMH and Li-ion batteries are great for things
like cameras
and bike lights, however I stay away from batteries for power tools,
Neither of those uses applies to me. My cameras, if they use battereis at
all, use assorted button cells for the exposure meters. And I do not (and
never will) own a bicycle.
the really annoying problem being the manufacturers
(or some) have
taken the pay-through-the-nose captive-market approach for replacements.
If the 'greens' were wactually useful, they would name and shame
manufacturers who made things deliberately difficult to repair, or when
you had to use battereis that only yhe mnufacturewr would supply, etc.
Rather than the current 'green' policies of baning leaded solder, thus
increasign the amount of electronic equipment that fails after a short
time. But I digress...
I tried to fix a couple of Makita battery packs for a
friend by
replacing some cells, but after the battery circuit was opened and
the internal controller powered down it bricked itself. There is what
Ouch! Now that one I haev not come across. Remind me not to buy such
power tools.
As 99.9% of my power tool usage is at my workbench, I have no problem
with having to plug them into the mains. The hassle of the mains cable is
minor compared to the extra weigth of the battery pack, actually.
If I am working outside, I do use 100V tools running from a centre-tapped
isolating transformer for safety. This is required industrially, it is
not required for hobbyists like me, but I would rather be as safe as
possible.
appears to be a communications connector in the pack,
presumably
there is a way of telling the controller to recognise the batteries,
if one knew what it was.
It occurred to me before doing the work it could do this and if I
were being really cynical-paranoid-careful I should temporarily wire
a parallel supply with isolation diode before opening the battery
circuit, but didn't bother. C'est la vie.
Friend only got two/three years out of the drill and two battery packs.
I have heard of people who ahve picked up cordless tools very cheaply
because the battereis are dead and unobtainable and who have then
podified them to run off a mains-driven power supply. OK, they become
corded then, but...
-tony
1:23 p.m.
New subject: OT rechargeable batteries/ was Re: Source for replacement parts?
On Thu, 1 Jan 1970, Tony Duell wrote:
I have heard of people who ahve picked up cordless
tools very cheaply
because the battereis are dead and unobtainable and who have then
podified them to run off a mains-driven power supply. OK, they become
corded then, but...
My current cordless tools (other than some 7.2V and 9.6V Makitas,etc. that
I've had for decades) are ALL 12V. Craftsman Nextec, and Ridgid.
Being 12V means that WHEN (not IF) "nobody makes anything like that
anymore", I can still EASILY power them. (Cigarette lighter plug, and
maybe even 5.25" drive molex power connector?)
The Ridgid is especially appealing to me, because it consists of a
small battery, a motor, and an attachment head (drill, reciprocating saw,
impact driver, oscillating "multi-tool", etc.), AND the same heads also
fit a 3A CORDED motor! That gives me the option of choosing
corded/cordless based on specific needs. I have been pleasantly
surprised by the longevity of the Lithium-ion batteries (anybody who used
NiCds has a hard time ever trusting a battery device ever again). I
ended up not having to switch to mains, nor even another battery, for
coarse sanding almost an 1/8" off edge of a stuck door.
--
Grumpy Ol' Fred cisin at xenosoft.com
2:36 p.m.
New subject: OT rechargeable batteries/ was Re: Source for replacement parts?
And I do not (and never will) own a bicycle.
Okay, now I'm curious: if you don't mind saying, why not? Surely it's
not the unrepairability you cite (fairly enough IMO) as reason for not
using recent computers....
/~\ The ASCII Mouse
\ / Ribbon Campaign
X Against HTML mouse at rodents-montreal.org
/ \ Email! 7D C8 61 52 5D E7 2D 39 4E F1 31 3E E8 B3 27 4B
11 May
11 May
2 p.m.
New subject: OT rechargeable batteries/ was Re: Source for replacement parts?
And I do not (and never will) own a bicycle.
Okay, now I'm curious: if you don't mind saying, why not? Surely it's
not the unrepairability you cite (fairly enough IMO) as reason for not
using recent computers.... 
10 May
10 May
3:03 p.m.
On 9 May 2013, at 15:10, David Riley <fraveydank at gmail.com> wrote:
On May 9, 2013, at 2:03 PM, ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk (Tony Duell) wrote:
Oh how I HATED those NiCd batteries?
I must admit I've never liked recheargeable
battereis. They als seem to
have a ridiculously high self-discharge rate, so unless you use the
device all the time (and thus keep it charged) , you will find it flat when
you want to use it. I would always pick the direct-mains powered tool.
For regular household use, the newer low-self-discharge NiMH batteries
have worked well for us. We put the AAs in C size adaptors for use in
a baby swing, and it ran the swing for a good week on a charge (not
100% duty cycle, of course, but not bad for AAs). We've been using
them for about two years now and none of them seem to be showing signs
of decreased charge life, either. I'm not sure I trust Sanyo's claim
that you can stick them in a drawer for a year and still be at 75%
capacity, but they're not as freakishly bad as the NiCd batteries of
the early '90s (which was previously my last exposure to normal
household rechargeables).
- Dave
4:31 p.m.
On 2013 May 10, at 3:03 PM, Cory Smelosky wrote:
On 9 May 2013, at 15:10, David Riley <fraveydank at
gmail.com> wrote:
I don't want to think about how many pieces of equipment I've seen
wrecked by NiCds.
...
capacity, but they're not as freakishly bad as the NiCd batteries of
the early '90s (which was previously my last exposure to normal
household rechargeables).
Oh how I HATED those NiCd batteries?
11 May
11 May
2:07 p.m.
I don't want to think about how many pieces of
equipment I've seen
wrecked by NiCds.
Waht, from leakage?
Anotehr nasty problem occurs in HP2xC and HP3xC calculators (and IIRC the
95C, but they're very rare) where if the battery pack is used as ashunt
regualtor. If the battery pack goes oepn-circuit then when you plug the
charger in you will damage assorted custom ICs. It is, alas, a vey common
problem.
-tony
8 May
8 May
2:53 p.m.
On 05/08/2013 10:43 AM, David Riley wrote:
A Dremel is a very effective tool for modifying bits
of metal and
plastic to fit things.
Judging from what I've seen in the way of Dremel hack-work on sheet
metal, I'd recommend the addition of an inexpensive (ca. $10) hand
nibbler for sheet metal. It makes very nice looking holes.
The last time I checked, you could get one from Micro Mark, Radio Shack
and JDR:
http://www.micromark.com/nibbling-cutter,7761.html
--Chuck
12:31 p.m.
On Wed, 8 May 2013, Earl Baugh wrote:
piece of metal in a hinge which seems fairly well
designed for
. . .;
I do see some sites that have the entire hinge assembly available in
the $18-$20 range, but I've been able to pick up entire monitors of
this type for $25, so this really doesn't seem to make sense to pay
this much for just the hinge when I could get a full set of spares (or
even yet ANOTHER working monitor with the same issue).
I can buy a used car for less than the price of a replacement engine,
transmission, or sometimes even FUEL PUMP!
OK, OK, I once bought a used car that cost less than the clutch disk
that it needed.
posted something to http://www.shapeways.com/ to see
if someone would
model the existing part, which I could then get them to fabricate.
Not sure if that's going to be cost effective either (unless I order
some quantity and sell extras with a mark up...)
If it's a simple part of readily available materials and less than an
hour's work, then you might be able to get one made for less than $50 or
MAYBE less than $25! (peopel with skills sometimes value their time)
If you don't have a machine shop, start making one.
--
Grumpy Ol' Fred cisin at xenosoft.com
12:51 p.m.
I have two of the things, both bought because the hinge was shot. Seems
like someone should have sued apple for such a piece of crap.
Anyway, I seldom see them with an intact hinge. I doubt one made by a
"printer" or such would stand a chance, and would be susceptible to the
same design flaw as the cast ones they used. I suspect it worked well
as a machined part, but the attempt to drive down the price resulted in
all their users having broken monitors.
A friend who I asked about printing said that he could get onseys done
by a machine shop as cheap as we could print the part. That doesn't
help you, but it has discouraged me from assuming that all weird parts
could be printed, and that on-off ones would be expensive no matter
where they come from.
jim
On 5/8/2013 10:03 AM, Earl Baugh wrote:
I'm looking for a part for a Mac Studio display
(and yes, I know this
doesn't qualify as "classic" but I'm trying to find a good overall
solution for this type of repair). The part that failed is a simple
piece of metal in a hinge which seems fairly well designed for
replacement. However, I've been unable to find any sources for the
particular part, Apple, etc. don't seem to have anything available.
I do see some sites that have the entire hinge assembly available in
the $18-$20 range, but I've been able to pick up entire monitors of
this type for $25, so this really doesn't seem to make sense to pay
this much for just the hinge when I could get a full set of spares (or
even yet ANOTHER working monitor with the same issue).
I'm wondering how people solve "spare/parts" issues like this. I've
posted something to http://www.shapeways.com/ to see if someone would
model the existing part, which I could then get them to fabricate.
Not sure if that's going to be cost effective either (unless I order
some quantity and sell extras with a mark up...)
Earl
p.s. A big thanks for the advise on the lubrication for the floppy
drives. I ordered some of the Drislide which works excellently. A
simple cleaning job with straight isopropyl alcohol, a couple drops,
and all three floppy drives are now working as good as new...
1:24 p.m.
I'm looking for a part for a Mac Studio display (and yes, I know this
doesn't qualify as "classic" but I'm trying to find a good overall
solution for this type of repair). The part that failed is a simple
piece of metal in a hinge which seems fairly well designed for
In what way has it failed? What does this part do? Cna you describe it in
more detail (shape, is it flat, bent, curved, etc).
Most fo the time for soemthing like that I just make a new one mycself.
If possible I use part of the broken thing (e.g. cut the hinge off and
use that if that's still good).
I don't bother with computer modelling or anything like that. Just grap
some metal and sturt cutting and drilling it.
-tony
2:54 p.m.
On 5/8/2013 1:24 PM, Tony Duell wrote:
It isn't feasible with this part, or not wise. It is a badly cast part
made of probably pot metal that someone used as a machined part. It
also has a preloaded very heavy spring which allows the hinge to work,
but retracts the stand back into the back of the monitor for stowage.
What happens on the 2 I own and several I've seen is that the spring is
too strong for the pot metal and between the forces on the parts from
that and the pressure where the spring applies force on the part which
is in the back of the monitor, you end up with a broken part, usually
the part in the back of the monitor, and the stand which is a plastic
part with part of the hinge in it loose.
I suspect as I previously said, a reasonable part made from steel, and
not cast probably worked, this crappy cast part doesn't. Even if you
tried to use the part, it would break somewhere else.
Better to use the pieces and a small drill mill and make a new one from
a quarter inch or 3/8 inch piece of solid material. Omit the spring, it
may be dangerous to reinstall, and just let the stand fold free.
Jim
I'm
looking for a part for a Mac Studio display (and yes, I know this
doesn't qualify as "classic" but I'm trying to find a good overall
solution for this type of repair). The part that failed is a simple
piece of metal in a hinge which seems fairly well designed for
In what way has it
failed? What does this part do? Cna you describe it in
more detail (shape, is it flat, bent, curved, etc).
Most fo the time for soemthing like that I just make a new one mycself.
If possible I use part of the broken thing (e.g. cut the hinge off and
use that if that's still good).
I don't bother with computer modelling or anything like that. Just grap
some metal and sturt cutting and drilling it.
-tony
4025
days inactive
4028
days old
21 comments
12 participants
participants (12)
-
ard＠p850ug1.demon.co.uk -
b4＠gewt.net -
bearnold＠outlook.com -
cclist＠sydex.com -
cisin＠xenosoft.com -
dave.thearchivist＠gmail.com -
earl＠baugh.org -
fraveydank＠gmail.com -
hilpert＠cs.ubc.ca -
IanK＠vulcan.com -
jws＠jwsss.com -
mouse＠Rodents-Montreal.ORG