25 Jun
2007
25 Jun
'07
7:01 a.m.
I picked up a Silicon Graphics Crimson at the weekend.
It?s in working order and the skins are in rather good nick as well.
Unfortunately, at some point in the past it has had sticky tape wrapped
around it, presumably to prevent the front access door from opening whilst
it was transported. This has (predictably) left sticky bands around the
computer.
I was wondering what the most appropriate solvent might be to remove this
crud, given that the skins themselves are some form of plastic.
Thanks in advance!
-Austin.
25 Jun
25 Jun
7:34 a.m.
On Mon, 25 Jun 2007, Austin Pass wrote:
I picked up a Silicon Graphics Crimson at the
weekend.
It?s in working order and the skins are in rather good nick as well.
Unfortunately, at some point in the past it has had sticky tape wrapped
around it, presumably to prevent the front access door from opening whilst
it was transported. This has (predictably) left sticky bands around the
computer.
I was wondering what the most appropriate solvent might be to remove this
crud, given that the skins themselves are some form of plastic.
Greetings Austin, you lucky sod.
WD40 is great for this. I'm not sure if you get it in the UK (I imagine
so), but if not I'm sure you get CRC (is it 5.5 or 5.6 thats the
WD40-alike? I forget, anyhow) - which works just as well.
Spray in on, wait a couple seconds, wipe it off with the appropriate paper
towel or flannel. Easy :)
JP
8:34 a.m.
From: JP Hindin <jplist2007 at kiwigeek.com>
On Mon, 25 Jun 2007, Austin Pass wrote:
Hi
I'm not sure I'd spray WD40 on a SGI Crimson. You might remove more
than tape gum. On typical hard surfaces, things like GooGone work well
but this might not be good on your surface either.
I'd try first using the tape method. Get a piece of the same or similar
tape. Place it in the old gum and then remove it slowly. The tape
will ofter pull up the older gum. Soemtimes, it works better if you
let it stay in contact for a hour or so.
Try to do experiments in a location that doesn't show. Any of the
typical solvents can remove the nice surface of your Crimson, leaving
a shiny metal instead.
Dwight
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I picked up a Silicon Graphics Crimson at the
weekend.
It?s in working order and the skins are in rather good nick as well.
Unfortunately, at some point in the past it has had sticky tape wrapped
around it, presumably to prevent the front access door from opening
whilst
it was transported. This has (predictably) left
sticky bands around the
computer.
I was wondering what the most appropriate solvent might be to remove
this
crud, given that the skins themselves are some
form of plastic.
Greetings Austin, you lucky sod.
WD40 is great for this. I'm not sure if you get it in the UK (I imagine
so), but if not I'm sure you get CRC (is it 5.5 or 5.6 thats the
WD40-alike? I forget, anyhow) - which works just as well.
Spray in on, wait a couple seconds, wipe it off with the appropriate paper
towel or flannel. Easy :)
JP
8:55 a.m.
On Mon, 25 Jun 2007, dwight elvey wrote:
>WD40 is great for this. I'm not sure if you
get it in the UK (I imagine
>so), but if not I'm sure you get CRC (is it 5.5 or 5.6 thats the
>WD40-alike? I forget, anyhow) - which works just as well.
>Spray in on, wait a couple seconds, wipe it off with the appropriate paper
>towel or flannel. Easy :)
I'm not sure I'd spray WD40 on a SGI Crimson.
You might remove more
than tape gum. On typical hard surfaces, things like GooGone work well
but this might not be good on your surface either.
Perhaps the plastics have changed over time - but I picked up a pile of
Indigo2 MaxImpacts that were covered in masking tape and packing tape
residue. The WD40 cleaned it up nicely, and three years later the I2
doesn't appear to have suffered adversely. No funny coloured spots, no
changing in the colour depth, the plastic isn't tacky anywhere on it.
Of course, as above, if the Crimsons are made of a different type of
plastic, my observations are moot.
JP
9:13 a.m.
On 25/6/07 16:34, "dwight elvey" <dkelvey at hotmail.com> wrote:
Hi
I'm not sure I'd spray WD40 on a SGI Crimson. You might remove more
than tape gum. On typical hard surfaces, things like GooGone work well
but this might not be good on your surface either.
I'd try first using the tape method. Get a piece of the same or similar
tape. Place it in the old gum and then remove it slowly. The tape
will ofter pull up the older gum. Soemtimes, it works better if you
let it stay in contact for a hour or so.
Try to do experiments in a location that doesn't show. Any of the
typical solvents can remove the nice surface of your Crimson, leaving
a shiny metal instead.
Dwight
The WD40 is on hold, as it appears I've lent out or disposed of mine.
It's impossible to know what type of tape was used, other than it was quite
wide and in place for rather a long time! When I do get hold of some WD40
tomorrow (GooGone doesn't seem to be available in the UK based on a cursory
check) I'll test it on the rear of the "wheel covers" to ensure no lasting
damage (should it prove too harsh.) I've sprayed it on and around ABS
plastics in the past without any harm, however.
As regards removing enough surface to reveal metal, that would probably take
a strong sulphuric acid - these babies were made solid, and that includes
the non-structural "skins". For each of the pieces I've removed, the
thinnest I've found is 4mm.
-Austin.
10:03 a.m.
On 25 Jun 2007 at 17:13, Austin Pass wrote:
The WD40 is on hold, as it appears I've lent out
or disposed of mine.
It's impossible to know what type of tape was used, other than it was quite
wide and in place for rather a long time! When I do get hold of some WD40
tomorrow (GooGone doesn't seem to be available in the UK based on a cursory
check) I'll test it on the rear of the "wheel covers" to ensure no lasting
damage (should it prove too harsh.) I've sprayed it on and around ABS
plastics in the past without any harm, however.
You might also try some lamp oil (paraffin oil/white kerosene). Slow
evaporation, so you can leave it to soak. In the grand scheme of
petroleum solvents, it's very mild, but has worked to remove tape
adhesive for me. The triple-filtered "ultra-pure" stuff has
practically no odor. Clean up any residue with detergent and water.
Cheers,
Chuck
1:04 p.m.
On 6/25/07, Chuck Guzis <cclist at sydex.com> wrote:
On 25 Jun 2007 at 17:13, Austin Pass wrote:
My preferences:
Naptha as a low activity solvent
Wd40 (Naptha in a spray can?)
Googone, GoofOff. Sold to remove paint drips; I like the non-petrolium
low-VOC version.
Citrus based cleaner; Orange Glo, etc.
You might need to soak a really dried label or glue spot; use a paper towel
wet with the cleaner of choice and lay (or tape!) it on the area and then
cover with a bit of plastic wrap to keep it from drying out.
Its always a good idea to start with the weakest cleaner and then move up to
somethign stronger until you find what will soften the adhesive. Also a
good idea to do a bit of testing in some area thats not going to be apparent
in case the cleaner decides to lift some paint or somehow cause the plastic
to discolor.
Watch out for solvents that are a higher order than the plastic you are
working with; Acetone, Lacquer thinner, and MEK will turn solvent based
plastics to jelly.
The WD40 is on hold, as it appears I've lent
out or disposed of mine.
It's impossible to know what type of tape was used, other than it was
quite
wide and in place for rather a long time! When I
do get hold of some
WD40
tomorrow (GooGone doesn't seem to be
available in the UK based on a
cursory
check) I'll test it on the rear of the
"wheel covers" to ensure no
lasting
damage (should it prove too harsh.) I've
sprayed it on and around ABS
plastics in the past without any harm, however.
You might also try some lamp oil (paraffin oil/white kerosene). Slow
evaporation, so you can leave it to soak. In the grand scheme of
petroleum solvents, it's very mild, but has worked to remove tape
adhesive for me. The triple-filtered "ultra-pure" stuff has
practically no odor. Clean up any residue with detergent and water.
Cheers,
Chuck 
6:25 p.m.
At 10:34 AM 6/25/2007, dwight elvey wrote:
I'm not sure I'd spray WD40 on a SGI Crimson.
You might remove more
than tape gum. On typical hard surfaces, things like GooGone work well
but this might not be good on your surface either.
Kerosene? Naptha? I'd suggest the most gentle alternative
for tape goo is vegetable oil.
- John
6:42 p.m.
On 25 Jun 2007 at 20:25, John Foust wrote:
Kerosene? Naptha? I'd suggest the most gentle
alternative
for tape goo is vegetable oil.
Or, if you have an aversion to spreading food on your equipment, try
some mineral oil. If it doesn't do the job, it's good for hairballs
--in cats.
If you have a wood chopping board in your kitchen, mineral oil is the
right stuff to keep it in shape. Vegetable oils will go rancid.
Cheers,
Chuck
10:09 p.m.
On 26 Jun 2007 at 0:28, C Fernandez wrote:
I'd prefer not to eat petroleum oils!
Unless you're accustomed to drinking a liter at a time (that'd send
you running for the loo!), mineral oil passes through the GI tract
without being absorbed to any appreciable degree--pretty much like
the silica in table salt (probably better than Kosher salt, which
often uses sodium ferrocyanide).
Mineral oil is used in medical preparations, laxatives and candy.
It's pretty hard to avoid. The tiny bit on your cutting board won't
amount to a hill of beans. If you use carbon-steel knives in your
cooking, wiping them with mineral oil after washing will keep them
from rusting.
It's also used as transformer oil. And you can submerge your PC with
it for cooling:
http://www.pugetsystems.com/submerged.php
Really great stuff.
Cheers,
Chuck
26 Jun
26 Jun
11:10 p.m.
Chuck Guzis wrote:
Unless you're accustomed to drinking a liter at a
time (that'd send
you running for the loo!), mineral oil passes through the GI tract
without being absorbed to any appreciable degree--pretty much like
the silica in table salt (probably better than Kosher salt, which
often uses sodium ferrocyanide).
I thought Kosher salt was supposed to be just salt? I did see one
package labeled as Kosher that did have an anti-clumping additive.....
is that what the sodium ferrocyanide is?
It's also used as transformer oil. And you can
submerge your PC with
it for cooling:
http://www.pugetsystems.com/submerged.php
I hadn't seen that particular project, but I did see a similar project,
online. The particular one I read about was actually being
refrigerated, but the thickening of the oil at low temps. was hampering
the project.
Chad Fernandez
Michigan, USA
12:36 p.m.
--- Chuck Guzis <cclist at sydex.com> wrote:
Or, if you have an aversion to spreading food on
your equipment, try
some mineral oil. If it doesn't do the job, it's
good for hairballs
--in cats.
?. Therefore not recommended for use by humans? LOL LOL
____________________________________________________________________________________
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25 Jun
25 Jun
6:47 p.m.
--- John Foust <jfoust at threedee.com> wrote:
At 10:34 AM 6/25/2007, dwight elvey wrote:
Vegetable oil? Never heard that one before - might
work. I typically use goo gone, it's wonderful stuff,
although it is hard on plastics. It's great for the
sides of metal cabinets - most recently I used it to
get goo off the side of a Vax 6000, but the finish on
that is not going to get damaged by something like goo
gone - you'd need something a little stronger. Like a
hammer. On plastic stuff, over zealous applications of
goo gone can smooth out the texture a bit. The trick
is to use very little.
Try the "other tape" method first. It doesn't _have_
to be the same tape, but it helps. Start by using some
packing tape or something, you'll be surprised at just
how well it can work. But if the goo is old and
hardened, you need a solvent. If goo gone is
unavailable, there are numerous other similar products
out there - I know that there's one called Contractors
DeSolvIt or something similar, it's available in big
jugs.
But yeah, WD40 will take it off. Just don't use it on
plastics. I've never had a problem using it on painted
metal, but I've heard that it can take paint off if
used too long. The basic trick with solvents is -
start with a little, and do it quickly.
-Ian
I'm not sure I'd spray WD40 on a SGI
Crimson. You
might remove more
than tape gum. On typical hard surfaces, things
like GooGone work well
but this might not be good on your surface either.
Kerosene? Naptha? I'd suggest the most gentle
alternative
for tape goo is vegetable oil. 
8:32 p.m.
Mr Ian Primus wrote:
--- John Foust <jfoust at threedee.com> wrote:
Using a light vegetable oil (canola?) on tape gunk is a *very* old
trick. I don't think it actually dissolved anything, but it definitely
lubricates the scraping-off of the gunk so you don't scratch the plastic.
Peace... Sridhar
At 10:34 AM 6/25/2007, dwight elvey wrote:
Vegetable oil? Never heard that one before - might
work. I typically use goo gone, it's wonderful stuff,
although it is hard on plastics. It's great for the I'm not sure I'd spray WD40 on a SGI
Crimson. You
might remove more
than tape gum. On typical hard surfaces, things
like GooGone work well
but this might not be good on your surface
either.
Kerosene? Naptha? I'd suggest the most gentle
alternative
for tape goo is vegetable oil. 
26 Jun
26 Jun
12:51 a.m.
On Mon, 25 Jun 2007, Sridhar Ayengar wrote:
Using a light vegetable oil (canola?) on tape gunk is a *very* old
trick. I don't think it actually dissolved anything, but it definitely
lubricates the scraping-off of the gunk so you don't scratch the plastic.
I always keep a bottle of naptha (zippo or ronsonol wick lighter fluids)
for dissolving goo. Offhand I can't think of anything it'll ruin. Stay
away from ketones. Vegetable oil is also good. I find peanut butter much
more convenient that fluid oils
--
David Griffith
dgriffi at cs.csubak.edu
A: Because it fouls the order in which people normally read text.
Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing?
A: Top-posting.
Q: What is the most annoying thing in e-mail?
Kerosene? Naptha? I'd suggest the most gentle
alternative
for tape goo is vegetable oil.
Vegetable oil? Never heard that one before - might
work. I typically use goo gone, it's wonderful stuff,
although it is hard on plastics. It's great for the
7:37 a.m.
From: David Griffith <dgriffi at cs.csubak.edu>
---snip---
I always keep a bottle of naptha (zippo or ronsonol
wick lighter fluids)
for dissolving goo. Offhand I can't think of anything it'll ruin. Stay
away from ketones. Vegetable oil is also good. I find peanut butter much
more convenient that fluid oils
Hi
Also try melted butter. It seems to remove things as well.
Dwight
_________________________________________________________________
Get a preview of Live Earth, the hottest event this summer - only on MSN
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9:56 a.m.
On 26/6/07 15:37, "dwight elvey" <dkelvey at hotmail.com> wrote:
Hi
Also try melted butter. It seems to remove things as well.
Dwight
Peanut butter and melted butter? Are we into the realms of pulling my leg
now perchance, or perhaps an anti-SGI stance keen to turn my crimson into a
squashed picnic? ;-)
I'll have a crack at it with naptha first, and then a little WD40, all on
inconspicuous areas*.
-Austin
* Although finding an "inconspicuous area" on the 3 foot cubed bright red
beast is, perhaps, a contradiction in terms!
10:39 a.m.
woodelf wrote:
Austin Pass wrote:
I beg to differ. WD40 works on a lot of stuff, but it usually works
better as a solvent than as a lubricant.
Usually, when I need to use penetrating lube on a rusted part, I use
WD40 to dissolve the rust, and then I apply the lube.
Peace... Sridhar
I'll have a crack at it with naptha first,
and then a little WD40, all on
inconspicuous areas*.
Some how I guess WD40 needs to be OFF-TOPIC this list
because I
don't think it will work for anything. Let us know what does work. 
12:04 p.m.
I beg to differ. WD40 works on a lot of stuff, but it
usually works
better as a solvent than as a lubricant.
Or a...I'm not sure what the word is. A liquid with which one washes
gunk out/off of something.
A bike-shop guy once told me to never use WD40 as a lubricant for
things bicycle, but that it works fine to wash dirt off (say) a chain,
preparatory to lubricating it. (As lube, he recommended automatic
transmission fluid - apparently it's made with a good grade of oil
under very strict quality controls, and is widely/cheaply available.)
Now, bicycles aren't computers, but it does seem to me that similar
remarks should apply to anything with complicated mechanical parts,
such as an ASR33 or a Selectric...though you might want to use grease
rather than oil as the lube once you've washed it relatively clean.
/~\ The ASCII der Mouse
\ / Ribbon Campaign
X Against HTML mouse at rodents.montreal.qc.ca
/ \ Email! 7D C8 61 52 5D E7 2D 39 4E F1 31 3E E8 B3 27 4B
12:43 p.m.
On Tue, 26 Jun 2007 15:04:24 -0400 (EDT), der Mouse wrote:
Now, bicycles aren't computers, but it does seem to
me that similar
remarks should apply to anything with complicated mechanical parts,
such as an ASR33 or a Selectric...though you might want to use grease
rather than oil as the lube once you've washed it relatively clean.
A can of Gunscrub from your faviorite Gun shop or sporting goods store, will wash an ASR33
clean,
in preperation for some good old 30 wt. motor oil, applied to just about everything inside
:)
Since I can not buy Freon TF any more Gunscrub has become my spray cleaner of choice.
often followed by a WD40 rinse. And then the lub of choice, from 5 wt. to Lubriplate
depending on what is
to be lubricated. I find I use a lot of silicone these days for nylon and plastics. But
WD40 is most often
used as a wash, never as a lubricant.
Oh ya .... On topic ... I remenber :)
WD40 is great for old printer ribbons, it loosens the unused dried ink on the edges which
then migrates to
the bare center of the ribbon through osmossis<sp?> and gives an old dried out
ribbon one more short
burst of life. Usually, only to prove the printer still works to someone .... Who if they
want it, can find their
own source of new ribbons ... Or it's moved back into storage.
Later
Bob
later
Bob
2 p.m.
A bike-shop guy once told me to never use WD40 as a
lubricant for
things bicycle, but that it works fine to wash dirt off (say) a chain,
preparatory to lubricating it. (As lube, he recommended automatic
transmission fluid - apparently it's made with a good grade of oil
under very strict quality controls, and is widely/cheaply available.)
Now, bicycles aren't computers, but it does seem to me that similar
remarks should apply to anything with complicated mechanical parts,
such as an ASR33 or a Selectric...though you might want to use grease
rather than oil as the lube once you've washed it relatively clean.
I normally call it 'Wanton Destruction 40'. It's great as a Water
Displacer (the original intention), to keep rust off garden tools and
steel stock. It's OK as a penatrating oil _provided you wash it off
afterwards_. It contains some long-chain waxy hydrocarbons (ideal for the
original use) that can really gum things um
For that reason it's not suitable as a lubricant, at least not on
precision machinery (clocks, cameras, ASR33s, etc). For example, I bought
a cheap non-working camera. The original fauly was that a spring had
become unhooked inside. Unfortuantely, the previous owner had sprayed
WD40 everywhere. What should have been a 10 minute repair took several
days as _everything_ had to some apart and be cleaned.
-tony
3:25 p.m.
--- Tony Duell <ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk> wrote:
Problem w/WD-40 and other stuff is that it will
dillute the true lubricant, and wherever metal is
coming in contact w/metal, rapid wear will ensue. Best
to keep that stuff away from machinery or any other
critical moving parts. Paint thinner would work better
at releasing junk, and at least it evaporates (much
more quickly).
____________________________________________________________________________________
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
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A bike-shop
guy once told me to never use WD40 as
a lubricant for
things bicycle, but that it works fine to wash
dirt off (say) a chain,
preparatory to lubricating it. (As lube, he
recommended automatic
transmission fluid - apparently it's made
with a
good grade of oil
under very strict quality controls, and is
widely/cheaply available.) 
3:11 p.m.
On Tue, 2007-06-26 at 15:04 -0400, der Mouse wrote:
I use LHM on my bike chain, and also on the little one-way clutch in my
Tektronix printer when it jams up. I believe the Phaser 560 may well be
very close to 10 years old by now, as the latest OS mentioned in the
handbook is Windows 98), thus making this post nearly on-topic. It's
quite expensive (?7 per litre) unless you buy it in large quantities
(around 15 litres at a time). I'd rather use a few millilitres of
something expensive that I already have, than buy a few millilitres of
something I don't have...
Gordon
I beg to
differ. WD40 works on a lot of stuff, but it usually works
better as a solvent than as a lubricant.
Or a...I'm not sure what the word is. A liquid with which one washes
gunk out/off of something.
A bike-shop guy once told me to never use WD40 as a lubricant for
things bicycle, but that it works fine to wash dirt off (say) a chain,
preparatory to lubricating it. (As lube, he recommended automatic
transmission fluid - apparently it's made with a good grade of oil
under very strict quality controls, and is widely/cheaply available.) 
27 Jun
27 Jun
5:17 a.m.
New subject: PDP/8E CPU Boards
I am a proud new owner of a PDP-8/E. Well, more like the proud new owner of
a PDP-8/E chassis with a few boards! I am looking for the M8300 and M8310
CPU boards and memory for it. Does anyone have any of these laying around?
Does anyone know of anyone who might make (or have a design) for a board
using semiconductor memory? Thanks!
Todd Paisley
6:07 p.m.
New subject: PDP/8E CPU Boards
Todd Paisley wrote:
I am a proud new owner of a PDP-8/E. Well, more like
the proud new owner of
a PDP-8/E chassis with a few boards! I am looking for the M8300 and M8310
CPU boards and memory for it. Does anyone have any of these laying around?
Does anyone know of anyone who might make (or have a design) for a board
using semiconductor memory? Thanks!
Todd Paisley
Did you happen to get this off ebay ? Off an auction seller that did not
document hardly anything about the configuration of the machine or include
photos of the inside ?
A seller kept relisting one over and over again, using another account
(whypaymore$) to shill it... and nobody outbid the shill bidder.
I gave up, as shipping weight seemed off and the entire guts could have
been missing, necessitating spending as much as the difference in getting
a complete unit.
If you did score it from him, it would be good to know what you got.
I forget the sellers id....
-- Curt
6:09 p.m.
New subject: PDP/8E CPU Boards
Todd Paisley wrote:
I am a proud new owner of a PDP-8/E. Well, more like
the proud new owner of
a PDP-8/E chassis with a few boards! I am looking for the M8300 and M8310
CPU boards and memory for it. Does anyone have any of these laying around?
Does anyone know of anyone who might make (or have a design) for a board
using semiconductor memory? Thanks!
Todd Paisley
eh... nope... I just answered my own question... you have an 8/e... that
seller was
auctioning off an 8/m.
Anybody have an 8i/e/f/m/a in the northeast they want to sell...
working, as is,
or needs fixing... for an affordable price ?
-- Curt
8:19 p.m.
New subject: PDP/8E CPU Boards
> I am a proud new owner of a PDP-8/E. Well, more
like the proud new
owner of
> a PDP-8/E chassis with a few boards! I am
looking for the M8300 and
M8310
> CPU boards and memory for it. Does anyone have
any of these laying
around?
Does anyone
know of anyone who might make (or have a design) for a board
using semiconductor memory? Thanks!
Todd Paisley
eh... nope... I just answered my own question... you have an 8/e... that
seller was
auctioning off an 8/m. 
8:53 p.m.
New subject: PDP/8E CPU Boards
I have a few extra E and A boxes and most of the boards for them.
Paul
On 6/27/07, Todd Paisley <paisley at erols.com> wrote:
Hi Curt. I did get it off of ebay. I did remember you posting on this
last
month. It was from a different person though. I was tempted to bid on
the
8/M but decided not too.
Todd Paisley
> I am a proud new owner of a PDP-8/E. Well,
more like the proud new
owner of
> a PDP-8/E chassis with a few boards! I am
looking for the M8300 and
M8310
> CPU boards and memory for it. Does anyone
have any of these laying
around?
> Does anyone know of anyone who might make
(or have a design) for a
board
using
semiconductor memory? Thanks!
Todd Paisley
eh... nope... I just answered my own question... you have an 8/e... that
seller was
auctioning off an 8/m. 
5 Jul
5 Jul
9:01 a.m.
New subject: PDP/8E CPU Boards
Hi,
I am also interested in an M8300 and M8310 for my 8/E, if anyone has a
spare working set they would be willing to sell or trade. My PDP-8/E
*almost* works.
Mark
On Wed, Jun 27, 2007 at 10:53:49PM -0500, Paul Anderson wrote:
I have a few extra E and A boxes and most of the
boards for them.
Paul
On 6/27/07, Todd Paisley <paisley at erols.com> wrote:
>
>> > I am a proud new owner of a PDP-8/E. Well, more like the proud new
>owner of
>> > a PDP-8/E chassis with a few boards! I am looking for the M8300 and
>M8310
>> > CPU boards and memory for it. Does anyone have any of these laying
>around?
...
--
Mark G. Thomas (Mark at Misty.com)
voice: 215-591-3695
http://mail-cleaner.com/
26 Jun
26 Jun
12:21 p.m.
On 26 Jun 2007 at 13:39, Sridhar Ayengar wrote:
> I beg to differ. WD40 works on a lot of stuff,
but it usually
works
better as a solvent than as a lubricant.
This is on-topic as far as I can tell, if folks are depending on the
lubricating qualities of WD-40.
As much as the makers of WD-40 would like you to believe otherwise,
WD-40 is not really much of a lubricant. It consists primarily of a
solvent base (probably a close relative of kerosene) with some very
light oil. Both will evaporate quickly enough under normal room-
temperature conditions.
As I understand it, the "WD" in "WD-40" stands for "Water
Displacing"-
-it's a good penetrating oil used to crack rusty bolts, but it
shouldn't be depended upon as a long-term standard lubricant.
If you need a lubricant in aerosol form, there are many choices in
grease and oil that will do the job better than WD-40.
Cheers,
Chuck
3:54 p.m.
On Tue, 26 Jun 2007, Chuck Guzis wrote:
If you need a lubricant in aerosol form, there are
many choices in
grease and oil that will do the job better than WD-40.
I frequently use CLP as a good spray lubricant. It's not just for
firearms.
--
David Griffith
dgriffi at cs.csubak.edu
A: Because it fouls the order in which people normally read text.
Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing?
A: Top-posting.
Q: What is the most annoying thing in e-mail?
10:23 a.m.
Austin Pass wrote:
If you have canola oil around the house, it's a lot gentler and less
messy than WD40. You can always try WD40 later.
We aren't pulling your leg. Vegetable and animal oils work fine.
Peace... Sridhar
Hi
Also try melted butter. It seems to remove things as well.
Peanut butter and melted butter? Are we into the realms of pulling my leg
now perchance, or perhaps an anti-SGI stance keen to turn my crimson into a
squashed picnic? ;-)
I'll have a crack at it with naptha first, and then a little WD40, all on
inconspicuous areas*. 
11:16 a.m.
Austin Pass wrote:
Peanut butter and melted butter? Are we into the
realms of pulling my leg
now perchance, or perhaps an anti-SGI stance keen to turn my crimson into a
squashed picnic? ;-)
Dunno about melted butter, but peanut butter was the Real Deal for
getting gum out of my kids' hair.
* Although finding an "inconspicuous area"
on the 3 foot cubed bright red
beast is, perhaps, a contradiction in terms!
The inside surface of a skin, maybe?
Doc
11:31 a.m.
On Tue, 26 Jun 2007, Austin Pass wrote:
On 26/6/07 15:37, "dwight elvey" <dkelvey
at hotmail.com> wrote:
Because peanut butter is a paste, it's less messy than other oils. It
also pulls the glue debris into itself to make cleanup easier afterwards.
Hi
Also try melted butter. It seems to remove things as well.
Dwight
Peanut butter and melted butter? Are we into the realms of pulling my leg
now perchance, or perhaps an anti-SGI stance keen to turn my crimson into a
squashed picnic? ;-) I'll have a crack at it with naptha first, and
then a little WD40, all on
inconspicuous areas*.
Naptha will probably do the job nicely.
--
David Griffith
dgriffi at cs.csubak.edu
A: Because it fouls the order in which people normally read text.
Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing?
A: Top-posting.
Q: What is the most annoying thing in e-mail?
26 Jun
26 Jun
1:28 p.m.
New subject: [RESULTS] Re: Best solvent to remove sticky tape residue.
On 26/6/07 17:56, "Austin Pass" <austin at ozpass.co.uk> wrote:
Peanut butter and melted butter? Are we into the
realms of pulling my leg
now perchance, or perhaps an anti-SGI stance keen to turn my crimson into a
squashed picnic? ;-)
I'll have a crack at it with naptha first, and then a little WD40, all on
inconspicuous areas*.
-Austin
* Although finding an "inconspicuous area" on the 3 foot cubed bright red
beast is, perhaps, a contradiction in terms!
Well, I've tried what I had available and the results are as follows....
1) I tried WD40, naptha, peanut butter and sunflower oil (closest I had to
canola) on the rear of the wheel cover skins. No harm done, so on with the
experiment. I'm going to clean the smaller front door. It's the most
scuffed part, and easy to remove for pictures.
2) Here's the crud to start with (caution, all images 1024 x 768):
http://www.fingertip-solutions.co.uk/files/sticky_crud1.jpg
3) I divided the sections into four (with insulation tape - oh the irony!),
and decided what would go where:
http://www.fingertip-solutions.co.uk/files/sticky_crud2.jpg
4) The PB and oil in place (didn't want to leave the naptha or WD40 on long
enough for photography):
http://www.fingertip-solutions.co.uk/files/sticky_crud3.jpg
5) "Scrubbed" each section with a soft cloth, here are the results:
http://www.fingertip-solutions.co.uk/files/sticky_crud4.jpg
And what are the results? In order of how effective they were at cleaning
the crud:
1. Naptha - excellent, all crud removed easily.
2. WD40 - not great, changed composition of sticky crud but still adhering
to case.
3. Sunflower oil - if I had muscles like the governator this might remove it
in 3-4 years of constant scrubbing.
4. Peanut butter - save it for the sandwiches.
And before you all weigh in, this is 20% science, 80% tongue-in-cheek. I
can confirm that for my given situation naptha is far and away the most
effective cleaner though.
-Austin.
6:47 p.m.
From: Austin Pass <austin at ozpass.co.uk>
On 26/6/07 15:37, "dwight elvey" <dkelvey at hotmail.com> wrote:
Hi
Both are good solvents and work well for many materials that are a mixture
of
water soluble and water resistant gunk.
Dwight
_________________________________________________________________
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Hi
Also try melted butter. It seems to remove things as well.
Dwight
Peanut butter and melted butter? Are we into the realms of pulling my leg
now perchance, or perhaps an anti-SGI stance keen to turn my crimson into a
squashed picnic? ;-) 
27 Jun
27 Jun
7:16 a.m.
So what removes the harder-than-epoxy dried out duct tape adhesive easily?
The only thing I know of is soaking in hot TCTFE which has been outlawed since
the patent expired.
I've tried TFE, methanol, ethanol, IPA, MEK, acetone, xylene, turpentine, and
various amide compounds which also remove acrylic and ABS (and skin) very well.
But I want to just remove the adhesive, not everything else but.
==
jd
Drink Canada Dry! You might not succeed, but it *is* fun trying eh!
29 Jun
29 Jun
6:53 a.m.
Chuck Guzis wrote:
On 27 Jun 2007 at 7:16, jd wrote:
--Wow! I shoulda stayed at a Holiday Inn... (^_^)
Why didn't I think of that?
I haven't used steam in a long time, since it seemed to fail at just about
everything else I tried it on.
All you are saying... Is give steam a chance...
OK!
==
jd
If I have seen farther than others, it is because I was standing on the
shoulders of giants.
-- Isaac Newton
In the sciences, we are now uniquely privileged to sit side by side
with the giants on whose shoulders we stand.
-- Gerald Holton
If I have not seen as far as others, it is because giants were standing
on my shoulders.
-- Hal Abelson
In computer science, we stand on each other's feet.
-- Brian K. Reid
So what removes the harder-than-epoxy dried out
duct tape adhesive easily?
Have you tried using a steam cleaner? I've heard that it works
better than any solvent, but have no direct experience.
28 Jun
28 Jun
12:59 a.m.
On Wednesday 27 June 2007 15:16:51 jd wrote:
So what removes the harder-than-epoxy dried out duct
tape adhesive easily?
The only thing I know of is soaking in hot TCTFE which has been outlawed
since the patent expired.
I've tried TFE, methanol, ethanol, IPA, MEK, acetone, xylene, turpentine,
and various amide compounds which also remove acrylic and ABS (and skin)
very well.
But I want to just remove the adhesive, not everything else but.
I use petrol. Do it outside, and wear gloves.
Gordon
4:48 p.m.
Gordon JC Pearce wrote:
On Wednesday 27 June 2007 15:16:51 jd wrote:
You have to be careful, though. It mushy-fies some plastics.
Peace... Sridhar
So what removes the harder-than-epoxy dried out
duct tape adhesive easily?
The only thing I know of is soaking in hot TCTFE which has been outlawed
since the patent expired.
I've tried TFE, methanol, ethanol, IPA, MEK, acetone, xylene, turpentine,
and various amide compounds which also remove acrylic and ABS (and skin)
very well.
But I want to just remove the adhesive, not everything else but.
I use petrol. Do it outside, and wear gloves. 
7:36 a.m.
I have some nasty chemical type stuff called Goof off, weak citrasolve
"goo gone", and some commercial citrasolve that I don't know how strong
it is, but can't be full strength since the carpet guys I know say full
strength won't last a month in any kind of plastic bottle.
In a pinch, peanut butter sometimes works.
25 Jun
25 Jun
8:44 p.m.
Mr Ian Primus wrote:
But yeah, WD40 will take it off. Just don't use it
on
plastics. I've never had a problem using it on painted
metal, but I've heard that it can take paint off if
used too long. The basic trick with solvents is -
start with a little, and do it quickly.
My father was a car dealer in the '50s in Texas, where a few years in
the sun can completely chalk the paint job.
He says it was common practice among used car dealers to polish such
cars with brake fluid. It would really restore the shine, right up till
two weeks later when the paint started scaling off.
Back on topic, it's amazing what a toothbrush or a soft tile brush
will do with some good dish soap and water. And lots of elbow grease,
of course.
Doc
8:38 a.m.
On 25/6/07 15:34, "JP Hindin" <jplist2007 at kiwigeek.com> wrote:
Greetings Austin, you lucky sod.
WD40 is great for this. I'm not sure if you get it in the UK (I imagine
so), but if not I'm sure you get CRC (is it 5.5 or 5.6 thats the
WD40-alike? I forget, anyhow) - which works just as well.
Spray in on, wait a couple seconds, wipe it off with the appropriate paper
towel or flannel. Easy :)
JP
Thanks for the tip! And yes, I am a lucky sod. I also got two free octanes
in minty condition on the same trip!!
I'm assuming that you're referring to the synthetic penetrating oil WD40?
If not I'm going to have a very slippery mess on my hands! ;-)
Wanders off to try....
-Austin.
8:47 a.m.
On 25/06/2007 15:34, JP Hindin wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jun 2007, Austin Pass wrote:
> Unfortunately, at some point in the past it has
had sticky tape wrapped
> around it, presumably to prevent the front access door from opening whilst
> it was transported. This has (predictably) left sticky bands around the
> computer.
WD40 is great for this. I'm not sure if you get it
in the UK (I imagine
so), but if not I'm sure you get CRC (is it 5.5 or 5.6 thats the
WD40-alike? I forget, anyhow) - which works just as well.
"White Spirit" or "turpentine substitute" will work as well, if not
better.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
8:52 a.m.
On Mon, 25 Jun 2007 15:01:13 +0100
Austin Pass <austin at ozpass.co.uk> wrote:
I was wondering what the most appropriate solvent
might be to remove
this crud, given that the skins themselves are some form of plastic.
Ethyl or
isopropyl alcohol. If this does not help I try petroleum ether
/ benzine. (The stuff that is used in cigarette lighters.)
--
tsch??,
Jochen
Homepage: http://www.unixag-kl.fh-kl.de/~jkunz/
9:44 a.m.
I use stuff called "sticky stuff remover" from a uk diy chain some
time ago a citrus based liquid (orange juice I reckon) or wd40 (test
first) or alcohol (test) and recently just a rubber for a painted
front panel (HP analyser)
Dave Caroline
On 6/25/07, Austin Pass <austin at ozpass.co.uk> wrote:
I picked up a Silicon Graphics Crimson at the
weekend.
It?s in working order and the skins are in rather good nick as well.
Unfortunately, at some point in the past it has had sticky tape wrapped
around it, presumably to prevent the front access door from opening whilst
it was transported. This has (predictably) left sticky bands around the
computer.
I was wondering what the most appropriate solvent might be to remove this
crud, given that the skins themselves are some form of plastic.
Thanks in advance!
-Austin.
10 a.m.
On Mon, 2007-06-25 15:01:13 +0100, Austin Pass <austin at ozpass.co.uk> wrote:
Unfortunately, at some point in the past it has had
sticky tape wrapped
around it, presumably to prevent the front access door from opening whilst
it was transported. This has (predictably) left sticky bands around the
computer.
Seems everybody has his/her own way to deal with it. My personal
approach is to not use solvents. I've seen them too often to hurt the
plastic parts. I for one use rubbers (think pencil and paper) to
remove them.
Please notice that there are basically two kinds of rubbers. Those
with abrasive materials inside (glass or quartz powder) and those
without. Use only the later ones! They're usually clear. (If you want
to test your rubber, place it on some kind of metal and burn it with a
torch or acetylene burner or the like. Those with quartz or glass
powder inside will not burn completely.)
This is a very non-invasive method of removing the rubber, though
you'll feel your arms and fingers the other day...
MfG, JBG
--
Jan-Benedict Glaw jbglaw at lug-owl.de +49-172-7608481
Signature of: Ich hatte in letzter Zeit ein bi?chen viel Realitycheck.
the second : Langsam m?chte ich mal wieder weitertr?umen k?nnen.
-- Maximilian Wilhelm (18. Mai 2006, #lug-owl.de)
1:52 p.m.
I was wondering what the most appropriate solvent
might be to remove this
crud, given that the skins themselves are some form of plastic.
I don;'t know if it's safe on this plastic (try it on the inside first!),
but I've found cigarette lighter fluid (the Naphtha one, not butane gas)
to be good for removing stickly tape residue.
-tony
26 Jun
26 Jun
12:08 p.m.
OI I'm not gonna read through this whole thread. The
stuph is called AFTA, available at most hardware
stores prolly and even Home Depot/Lowe's and such.
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12:24 p.m.
On 26 Jun 2007 at 12:08, Chris M wrote:
OI I'm not gonna read through this whole thread.
The
stuph is called AFTA, available at most hardware
stores prolly and even Home Depot/Lowe's and such.
NO! (shouting intentional)
AFTA contains xylene, which can do a number on many plastics. See
the MSDS at:
http://www.wjgrosvenor.com/MSDS/afta/afta.htm
Where's carbon tet when you really want it?
Cheers,
Chuck
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