On Wed, Oct 31, 2012 at 4:39 PM, Dave McGuire <mcguire at neurotica.com> wrote:
Heh. That was "the new extruder" when I
bought the setup a little
over a year ago. ;)
Time marches on. I'm presently rebuilding a 2010 Thing-O-Matic, but I
have to DIY here and there because it was only sold for a year and not
many spare parts for it are still stocked. I'm not unhappy
considering the heinous discount I got it at, so all the repair
efforts are totally worth it, but it would just be easier to order
replacements (or spares) than fabricate them.
Mendel was designed to print with PLA, so no heated bed.
I have a spool of ABS. I should get going on a heated bed.
Yep. There's a 40W-50W heated PCB or some folks are using silicone
flat heaters (powered by mains or 24VDC, depending on the design).
I'm already to that point. I have some slippage
on one of the Z-axis
gears, but otherwise all axes function under program control.
Good. Again, more progress than I've made yet, though I did just get
some locktite last week so I can do a proper adjust and align and set
for the side triangles.
... We do
a monthly 3D printer meetup in Columbus, but it's 3.5 hrs from you and
runs from 19:00-22:00 - not a great time for such a long commute. We
get people dropping in from around the state, but 1.5 hrs is about the
I drive that distance at the drop of a hat. ;) Maybe when it's "final
tune-up" time I'll head out for that.
Second Wednesday of every month. Next one is 14 November. Ping me
offline for directions, etc.
anyone draft up an STL file for DEC toggle switch paddles
yet? I'm willing to give a go at printing some but I'm not a skilled
Oh that'd be nice! And those brackets that the blank rack covers snap
onto, that the nipples are always breaking off of.
I could use a bunch of those, too. FDM is not highly resistant to
delamination, so either a support rod should be incorporated, or
perhaps just make an injection mold and crank out a bunch of them out
of ABS and do a large enough run that the mold costs are well
If you really wanted to print them, I'd recommend printing the
"nipples" by themselves, but with longer shanks, washing them with
some homemade ABS "glue" (ABS scrap + acetone) to smooth the finish
and fuse the layers, then glue them in the flat parts made with a hole
for each "nipple". The flat bits could be printed or just laser cut
from ABS sheet. You could bang out a bunch of the flat
minutes in a laser cutter, but printed ones could incorporate a
tapered hole for the head of the 10-32 machine screw used for