On Thursday (11/22/2012 at 11:00PM +0100), shadoooo wrote:
Hello.
I have a VAX730 with both TU58 drives destroyed (capstan melted, need
replacements).
I also have a bunch of cassettes, but unfortunately all seem to have
problems with the bend and/or bad spots on the tape.
Possibly I would try to replace the broken bands (if I find a source)
and/or replace the magnetic tape when damaged (I was thinking to try
with audio cassette tape, don' t know if metal oxide high density tape
could be good for it).
Anybody has some information about the coercivity of original DEC TU58 tape?
One problem indeed is the need of reformatting the tape, but: if I can
emulate the TU58 drive using a serial, would it be possible to send
raw commands to the drive using the serial and a PC?
It's more than just sending the correct serial command, at least for the
original DEC Tape II, for which the documentation is here,
http://bitsavers.trailing-edge.com/pdf/dec/dectape/EK-0TU58-UG-001_TU58ug.p…
There is no command in the set to accomplish formatting. So, as Eric
pointed out in an earlier message, it would require different firmware
(at least for the DEC Tape II) to accomplish it.
The above document also discusses some parameters of the tape itself.
I do have some DC100A that are not DEC labeled. They are just Scotch
(3M) brand and have a hand written "DEC" paper label stuck to them.
This suggests to me that someone had a method for formatting them. Other
labeling on the tapes suggests VAX 4500 (?) may have been involved so
I wonder if it was possible to format raw DC100A on some flavors of VAX?
I found replacement capstans on eBay and waited until they went "on
sale" and then nabbed a couple. They too are rare. I wonder if there's
something that could be applied to keep them from degrading again?
My TU58 spent its days prior to restoration in a particularly bad
environment. A hot, humid barn. This surely helped the rubber capstan
degrade and also caused rusting on a number of the metal components-- in
particular the motor shaft where that capstan is mounted. Even though
the capstan is an aluminum hub, the rusted motor shaft held onto it
like they were one piece. I really struggled to get the capstan off,
finally heating the whole shaft and capstan with a 150W soldering iron
and then hammering on it with a hammer and center punch to break it loose.
PS-If possible, some good-condition cassette would be
very useful to
me too. I'm located in Italy.
I think the challenge is on :-)
Chris
--
Chris Elmquist