12 Apr
2016
12 Apr
'16
12:55 p.m.
So after cleaning up and reorganizing my computer/hobby room I thought it
was time to get the asr33 working again. It has a stuck carriage (at the
right end), and it would only go back after repeated CR's.
First thing I did was to replace the gooed up rubber hammer, only to
find out that my replacements were also starting to deteriorate :(
(but still stiff enough to be usable for some print test).
I can either use a piece of hose or one of those little self adhesive
rubber feet.
Closer inspection showed that the pawl of the advancing/return section
was barely moving. With the application of WD40 using a small brush
loosened the gummed up oil/grease and with some more cleaning and light
machine oil it was behaving as it should.
Next was to get it working as a console (it works fine in local mode,
puncher and reader do what they need to do).
I have one of these DLV11-KB's (EIA/20mA converters), and one of them
was already configured for teletype use. The schematic also notes that
these can be used for ASR-33 use.
A flat mate-n-lok plug was made for the 20mA side, as well as a rs232 cable
for the EIA side. Little note here is that the DLV11-KB uses 12V as power,
so 2 wires were used to go to a wall wart adapter counter plug.
Check power -> ok
Check cables -> ok.
Set VT220 to 7E2, 110 baud -> ok
power on ASR -> ok
Hmm, the print-head is constantly hopping and typed chars on the VT
do not appear. Then again typed chars on the ASR do show on the VT screen.
Ok, power off the ASR, and look at the back of the ASR terminal strip.
Ahh, wire 6 & 7 are used other way around, so swapping 2 pins on the
mate-n-lok is all what is needed.
Power on ASR -> ok, no hopping print-head this time, and chars type on
the VT do print on the ASR. Jippy!
Only thing what does not work yet is that the paper reader does not start
when I flip the switch to the 'start' position (it is a 3 position switch).
Any ideas how to make this work?
All in all a few hours well spend.
Ed
--
Ik email, dus ik besta.
BTC : 1J5fajt8ptyZ2V1YURj3YJZhe5j3fJVSHN
LTC : LP2WuEmYPbpWUBqMFGJfdm7pdHEW7fKvDz
12 Apr
12 Apr
2:12 p.m.
On Apr 12, 2016, at 3:55 PM, E. Groenenberg <ed at
groenenberg.net> wrote:
...
Closer inspection showed that the pawl of the advancing/return section
was barely moving. With the application of WD40 using a small brush
loosened the gummed up oil/grease and with some more cleaning and light
machine oil it was behaving as it should.
Be sure to remove the WD40 thoroughly. It's occasionally claimed to be a lubricant,
but that is not true at all. If you use it as one, you will end up with exactly the
problem you ran into.
paul
10:26 p.m.
On Tue, April 12, 2016 23:12, Paul Koning wrote:
Yes, I was aware of that, after that part of the mechanism was loose
and been working for half an hour, I removed as much as possible using a
few tipped cotton buds and applied some light machine oil.
As the rest of the machine was working more or less fine, I greased and
oiled the other points as well.
Only the keyboard T levers needed some lubrication, as some of them
did not move freely. I used a little bit of silicone oil which I
applied with a very small brush and after a few movements their movements
was much better.
Ed
--
Ik email, dus ik besta.
BTC : 1J5fajt8ptyZ2V1YURj3YJZhe5j3fJVSHN
LTC : LP2WuEmYPbpWUBqMFGJfdm7pdHEW7fKvDz
On Apr 12, 2016, at 3:55 PM, E. Groenenberg
<ed at groenenberg.net> wrote:
...
Closer inspection showed that the pawl of the advancing/return section
was barely moving. With the application of WD40 using a small brush
loosened the gummed up oil/grease and with some more cleaning and light
machine oil it was behaving as it should.
Be sure to remove the WD40 thoroughly. It's occasionally claimed to be a
lubricant, but that is not true at all. If you use it as one, you will
end up with exactly the problem you ran into.
paul 
2:55 p.m.
On 12 April 2016 at 15:55, E. Groenenberg <ed at groenenberg.net> wrote:
First thing I did was to replace the gooed up rubber
hammer, only to
find out that my replacements were also starting to deteriorate :(
(but still stiff enough to be usable for some print test).
I can either use a piece of hose or one of those little self adhesive
rubber feet.
So, first thing's first, I'll going to provide you with this link the
the GreenKeys mailing list. They know pretty much everything about
Teletype machines, and more importantly one of the list members there
has started making reproduction/replacements for the old Teletype
print hammers. <http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/greenkeys>
Don't go with the adhesive rubber foot, it'll fly off and either hit
you, or lodge in the mechanism and you'll have a bad time. Rubber hose
is the best, unless you decide to buy a new hammer.
Only thing what does not work yet is that the paper
reader does not start
when I flip the switch to the 'start' position (it is a 3 position switch).
Any ideas how to make this work?
If it has the DEC LT33 modifications, which might be the case if it
used to be part of a DEC system, or was similarly modified by other
manufacturers it will have a reader run relay, which can be triggered
on the DLV11-K. I don't have the pinouts to hand to tell you exactly
which one. If the reader run relay isn't energized the reader won't
run; it's how the computer did flow control when using the reader.
Cheers,
Christian
--
Christian M. Gauger-Cosgrove
STCKON08DS0
Contact information available upon request.
3:24 p.m.
WD-40 is not a lubricant or a solvent, although it can work as one
at times, but only for a short time.
When it dries it leaves behind a waxy substance, also no a lubricant.
It is a water dispersant used to get condensation out of an ignition
system.
It isn't a particularly good rust protector either. I've seen cases
were it actually causes rust corrosion.
Please don't put it on your teletype unless you intend to immediately
rinse it off with solvent.
Dwight
________________________________________
From: cctalk <cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org> on behalf of Christian
Gauger-Cosgrove <captainkirk359 at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 2:55 PM
To: ed at groenenberg.net; General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Subject: Re: A fruitfull evening
On 12 April 2016 at 15:55, E. Groenenberg <ed at groenenberg.net> wrote:
First thing I did was to replace the gooed up rubber
hammer, only to
find out that my replacements were also starting to deteriorate :(
(but still stiff enough to be usable for some print test).
I can either use a piece of hose or one of those little self adhesive
rubber feet.
So, first thing's first, I'll going to provide you with this link the
the GreenKeys mailing list. They know pretty much everything about
Teletype machines, and more importantly one of the list members there
has started making reproduction/replacements for the old Teletype
print hammers. <http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/greenkeys>
Don't go with the adhesive rubber foot, it'll fly off and either hit
you, or lodge in the mechanism and you'll have a bad time. Rubber hose
is the best, unless you decide to buy a new hammer.
Only thing what does not work yet is that the paper
reader does not start
when I flip the switch to the 'start' position (it is a 3 position switch).
Any ideas how to make this work?
If it has the DEC LT33 modifications, which might be the case if it
used to be part of a DEC system, or was similarly modified by other
manufacturers it will have a reader run relay, which can be triggered
on the DLV11-K. I don't have the pinouts to hand to tell you exactly
which one. If the reader run relay isn't energized the reader won't
run; it's how the computer did flow control when using the reader.
Cheers,
Christian
--
Christian M. Gauger-Cosgrove
STCKON08DS0
Contact information available upon request.
4:18 p.m.
On 04/12/2016 03:24 PM, dwight wrote:
Please don't put it on your teletype unless you
intend to
immediately rinse it off with solvent.
What Dwight said.
Kerosene or paint thinner makes a good cleaning solvent. SAE 5 "white"
oil is a good lightweight lubricant; often used to lube sewing machines.
--Chuck
5:06 p.m.
The 'Zoom Spout' Turbine Oil (Supco, other mfrs.) is brilliant for
lubricating any fine mechanisms. It's also quite inexpensive, and the
extensible spout is worth the price of the bottle alone. The oil contained
is crystal-clear and somewhere in the 5-10W range, non-detergent and will
not gum up.
Here's another little jewel, that no mechanical geek worth their salt
should be without - the General Tools 589 Precision Oiler. This is a
high-quality, leak-proof refillable oiler, that allows very precise
dispensing of even the smallest droplets.
As an example, eBay item #131703297238
On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 6:18 PM, Chuck Guzis <cclist at sydex.com> wrote:
On 04/12/2016 03:24 PM, dwight wrote:
Please don't put it on your teletype unless
you intend to
immediately rinse it off with solvent.
What Dwight said.
Kerosene or paint thinner makes a good cleaning solvent. SAE 5 "white"
oil is a good lightweight lubricant; often used to lube sewing machines.
--Chuck
5:19 p.m.
"I suppose it might do that, but that's not its main purpose. Its main
purpose is to loosen rusted and otherwise stuck fasteners and shafts."
Here I thought that the 'WD' stood for Water Dispersant (version 40). Also,
while I have no use for the stuff myself, I've certainly never encountered
any of the 'horror stories' about it turning to wax, gum, +attracting+
moisture and fostering rust, ad nauseam.
You want a common household product horror story, look into Armor All. For
dog's sake, keep that stuff off your vinyl dashboards, car & cycle tires,
anything of that sort. If you want plastic or rubber to shine, get a bottle
of plastic / rubber dressing from a reputable supplier.
On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 7:06 PM, drlegendre . <drlegendre at gmail.com> wrote:
The 'Zoom Spout' Turbine Oil (Supco, other
mfrs.) is brilliant for
lubricating any fine mechanisms. It's also quite inexpensive, and the
extensible spout is worth the price of the bottle alone. The oil contained
is crystal-clear and somewhere in the 5-10W range, non-detergent and will
not gum up.
Here's another little jewel, that no mechanical geek worth their salt
should be without - the General Tools 589 Precision Oiler. This is a
high-quality, leak-proof refillable oiler, that allows very precise
dispensing of even the smallest droplets.
As an example, eBay item #131703297238
On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 6:18 PM, Chuck Guzis <cclist at sydex.com> wrote:
On 04/12/2016 03:24 PM, dwight wrote:
Please don't put it on your teletype unless
you intend to
immediately rinse it off with solvent.
What Dwight said.
Kerosene or paint thinner makes a good cleaning solvent. SAE 5 "white"
oil is a good lightweight lubricant; often used to lube sewing machines.
--Chuck
5:28 p.m.
On Apr 12, 2016, at 8:19 PM, drlegendre .
<drlegendre at gmail.com> wrote:
"I suppose it might do that, but that's not its main purpose. Its main
purpose is to loosen rusted and otherwise stuck fasteners and shafts."
Here I thought that the 'WD' stood for Water Dispersant (version 40). Also,
while I have no use for the stuff myself, I've certainly never encountered
any of the 'horror stories' about it turning to wax, gum, +attracting+
moisture and fostering rust, ad nauseam.
Yes, it does stand for water displacing, but I figured that refers to the water that's
in the rust of rusted parts. For drying ignition parts I've seen silicone spray;
using a flammable spray like WD-40 seems a bit iffy. Also, one finds WD-40 sold (in bulk
as well as cans) in machinery catalogs, far from car ignitions.
And I've seen plenty of warnings against WD-40 in forums discussing metalworking
machinery and firearms, or gunsmithing reference books.
paul
5:39 p.m.
I've used WD-40 on multiple occasions to 'rescue' older motorcycle and
automotive ignition systems that died in rain or heavy humidity. In all
cases, these were the older point-and-coil type systems, not the more
modern HEI systems (found in post-1976 in most cars & light trucks,
post-1980-82 in most cycles).
Just wipe off as much water as you can, and hose-on the WD-40. I don't
think it ever failed to get the machine running, until proper repairs could
be made to the ignition system. Silicone spray is also excellent as a
preservative and waterproofing for ignitions, but I've never tried it (or
had it on-hand) for a roadside rescue.
On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 7:28 PM, Paul Koning <paulkoning at comcast.net> wrote:
On Apr 12, 2016, at 8:19 PM, drlegendre .
<drlegendre at gmail.com> wrote:
"I suppose it might do that, but that's not its main purpose. Its main
purpose is to loosen rusted and otherwise stuck fasteners and shafts."
Here I thought that the 'WD' stood for Water Dispersant (version 40).
Also,
while I have no use for the stuff myself,
I've certainly never
encountered
any of the 'horror stories' about it
turning to wax, gum, +attracting+
moisture and fostering rust, ad nauseam.
Yes, it does stand for water displacing, but I figured that refers to the
water that's in the rust of rusted parts. For drying ignition parts I've
seen silicone spray; using a flammable spray like WD-40 seems a bit iffy.
Also, one finds WD-40 sold (in bulk as well as cans) in machinery catalogs,
far from car ignitions.
And I've seen plenty of warnings against WD-40 in forums discussing
metalworking machinery and firearms, or gunsmithing reference books.
paul
5:38 p.m.
On Apr 12, 2016, at 8:19 PM, drlegendre .
<drlegendre at gmail.com> wrote:
"I suppose it might do that, but that's not its main purpose. Its main
purpose is to loosen rusted and otherwise stuck fasteners and shafts."
That is *not* the main purpose of WD-40, nor does it even work well for
that purpose *at all*. Rather, a penetrating lubricant like PB
Blaster is for loosening rusted fasteners.
WD-40 is a very misunderstood -- albeit still very useful -- product.
- j.
13 Apr
13 Apr
10:27 a.m.
New subject: WD-40 (again) was Re: A fruitfull evening
On 4/12/16 5:38 PM, js at cimmeri.com wrote:
"WD-40 is mostly a mix of baby oil, Vaseline, and the goop inside
homemade lava lamps."
https://web.archive.org/web/20140119014037/http://www.wired.com/science/dis…
https://www.engineeringforchange.org/how-to-make-penetrating-oil/
On Apr 12, 2016, at 8:19 PM, drlegendre .
<drlegendre at gmail.com> wrote:
"I suppose it might do that, but that's not its main purpose. Its main
purpose is to loosen rusted and otherwise stuck fasteners and shafts."
That is *not* the main purpose of WD-40, nor does it even work well for
that purpose *at all*. Rather, a penetrating lubricant like PB
Blaster is for loosening rusted fasteners.
WD-40 is a very misunderstood -- albeit still very useful -- product.
- j.
11:46 a.m.
New subject: WD-40 (again) was Re: A fruitfull evening
On 4/13/16 10:27 AM, Al Kossow wrote:
"WD-40 is mostly a mix of baby oil, Vaseline, and
the goop inside
homemade lava lamps."
https://web.archive.org/web/20140119014037/http://www.wired.com/science/dis…
https://www.engineeringforchange.org/how-to-make-penetrating-oil/
and down the rat-hole I go again
http://weldingweb.com/archive/index.php/t-348771.html
5:44 p.m.
New subject: WD-40 (again) was Re: A fruitfull evening
From your last link.. which is a hoot.. ;-)
"PB Blaster just stinks!
ATF/acetone couldn't keep mixed together, kept separating."
Now here's a report of +ATF+ and acetone that won't mix. I assumed it was
due to some additive(s) in the PSF I had used, but perhaps not.
So please tell me - is there some half-arsed "green" substitute being sold
as acetone, or something? Sort of like the "PF-TSP" (phosphate-free TSP),
which is free of phosphates, but of course, is not TSP by a long shot. Now
that is some truly worthless crap. If you need REAL TSP, get it from an
industrial supply or eBay.. that's where we get it.
Seriously though, has +anyone+ encountered a petroleum-based oil that would
not go into solution in acetone? What the heck is up with the non-mixing
acetone and ATF / PSF?
FYI - here's the low-down on the whole ATF / PSF & acetone debacle:
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/27429-Please-confirm-MW-article-on…
Home Shop Machinist was the source of the original article. The author
intended to use ATF, but grabbed PSF by mistake.. and apparently, this
wasn't noticed until some time after publication, and replication by
readers.
On Wed, Apr 13, 2016 at 1:46 PM, Al Kossow <aek at bitsavers.org> wrote:
On 4/13/16 10:27 AM, Al Kossow wrote:
"WD-40 is mostly a mix of baby oil,
Vaseline, and the goop inside
homemade lava lamps."
https://web.archive.org/web/20140119014037/http://www.wired.com/science/dis…
and down the rat-hole I go again
http://weldingweb.com/archive/index.php/t-348771.html
7:31 p.m.
New subject: WD-40 (again) was Re: A fruitfull evening
acetone is natural. Your body is making small amount right now.
It is also making methane, a green house gas.
There is no true green anything in concentration.
Dwight
________________________________________
From: cctalk <cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org> on behalf of drlegendre .
<drlegendre at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 5:44 PM
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Subject: Re: WD-40 (again) was Re: A fruitfull evening
From your last link.. which is a hoot.. ;-)
"PB Blaster just stinks!
ATF/acetone couldn't keep mixed together, kept separating."
Now here's a report of +ATF+ and acetone that won't mix. I assumed it was
due to some additive(s) in the PSF I had used, but perhaps not.
So please tell me - is there some half-arsed "green" substitute being sold
as acetone, or something? Sort of like the "PF-TSP" (phosphate-free TSP),
which is free of phosphates, but of course, is not TSP by a long shot. Now
that is some truly worthless crap. If you need REAL TSP, get it from an
industrial supply or eBay.. that's where we get it.
Seriously though, has +anyone+ encountered a petroleum-based oil that would
not go into solution in acetone? What the heck is up with the non-mixing
acetone and ATF / PSF?
FYI - here's the low-down on the whole ATF / PSF & acetone debacle:
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/27429-Please-confirm-MW-article-on…
Home Shop Machinist was the source of the original article. The author
intended to use ATF, but grabbed PSF by mistake.. and apparently, this
wasn't noticed until some time after publication, and replication by
readers.
On Wed, Apr 13, 2016 at 1:46 PM, Al Kossow <aek at bitsavers.org> wrote:
On 4/13/16 10:27 AM, Al Kossow wrote:
"WD-40 is mostly a mix of baby oil,
Vaseline, and the goop inside
homemade lava lamps."
https://web.archive.org/web/20140119014037/http://www.wired.com/science/dis…
and down the rat-hole I go again
http://weldingweb.com/archive/index.php/t-348771.html
8:05 p.m.
New subject: WD-40 (again) was Re: A fruitfull evening
Okay, I'll chime in here.
In my experience petroleum oil and acetone are not miscible. Water and
alcohol (and gasoline) will mix with acetone, however.
So what's the lowdown on the ATF-acetone mixture?
http://www.instructables.com/id/Home-made-penetrating-oil/
States pretty clearly that the mix will separate, so you have to keep
shaking the bottle. Perhaps it could be made to emulsify somehow (add a
surfactant?)
Personally, I'd substitute paint thinner or kerosene for the acetone. I
suspect it will work just as well--and it'd mix with the ATF.
--Chuck
9:23 p.m.
New subject: WD-40 (again) was Re: A fruitfull evening
One wonders about PSF?
Is it better or worse than ATF.
Tinker Dwight
________________________________________
From: cctalk <cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org> on behalf of Chuck Guzis <cclist
at sydex.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 8:05 PM
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Subject: Re: WD-40 (again) was Re: A fruitfull evening
Okay, I'll chime in here.
In my experience petroleum oil and acetone are not miscible. Water and
alcohol (and gasoline) will mix with acetone, however.
So what's the lowdown on the ATF-acetone mixture?
http://www.instructables.com/id/Home-made-penetrating-oil/
States pretty clearly that the mix will separate, so you have to keep
shaking the bottle. Perhaps it could be made to emulsify somehow (add a
surfactant?)
Personally, I'd substitute paint thinner or kerosene for the acetone. I
suspect it will work just as well--and it'd mix with the ATF.
--Chuck
12 Apr
12 Apr
6:07 p.m.
Here's another little jewel, that no mechanical
geek worth their
salt should be without - the General Tools 589 Precision Oiler. This
is a high-quality, leak-proof refillable oiler, that allows very
precise dispensing of even the smallest droplets.
I use a plain medical glass syringe with a fine blunt tip needle for
that. I've also found that orthodontic wire cutters work very well as
flush cutters (and almost as inexpensive as the regular electronics kind).
For a light oil, I dig into my supply of brass instrument valve oil.
All types are available, from regular petroleum-base to some pretty
exotic synthetics. Go to, say, Amazon and search for "Trumpet valve oil".
--Chuck
6:25 p.m.
"I use a plain medical glass syringe with a fine blunt tip needle for
that. "
Hey, what works, works - right? I like the General oiler as it's
essentially leak-proof, and can be carried in the pocket (or left for
months in the toolbox) with no worry about drips & stains. One other neat
feature, is that each operation of the plunger dispenses a small, metered
amount of lube to the dispensing tip. You have to lean on the plunger for
like 4-5 secs to actually get a "drop".
"For a light oil, I dig into my supply of brass instrument valve oil.
All types are available, from regular petroleum-base to some pretty
exotic synthetics. Go to, say, Amazon and search for "Trumpet valve
oil"."
Once again, it's what works. There are so many types, sources & grades of
lubricating oil out there, it boggles the best of minds. Enough material
for numerous doctoral theses!
On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 8:07 PM, Chuck Guzis <cclist at sydex.com> wrote:
Here's another little jewel, that no
mechanical geek worth their
salt should be without - the General Tools 589 Precision Oiler. This
is a high-quality, leak-proof refillable oiler, that allows very
precise dispensing of even the smallest droplets.
I use a plain medical glass syringe with a fine blunt tip needle for
that. I've also found that orthodontic wire cutters work very well as
flush cutters (and almost as inexpensive as the regular electronics kind).
For a light oil, I dig into my supply of brass instrument valve oil.
All types are available, from regular petroleum-base to some pretty
exotic synthetics. Go to, say, Amazon and search for "Trumpet valve oil".
--Chuck
7:29 p.m.
On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 9:07 PM, Chuck Guzis <cclist at sydex.com> wrote:
I use a plain medical glass syringe with a fine blunt
tip needle for
that. I've also found that orthodontic wire cutters work very well as
flush cutters (and almost as inexpensive as the regular electronics kind).
A couple of weeks ago, like the OP, I got my 33 ASR out of storage
and cleaned and oiled it. I went to the local farm supply store and
got the biggest needles they had and some syringes. Worked perfectly.
I told the clerk it was for oiling clocks. I thought that was close
enough without requiring a long explanation. Thankfully needles aren't
controlled in this state.
I used 20 weight non-detergent motor oil. KS7470 isn't available. I do
miss the smell.
(a different)
chuck
9:05 p.m.
I've read, but not tried, that transmission fluid and acetone
makes the best rust solvent.
I wonder if it is F type?
Dwight
9:17 p.m.
Not this again.. ;-)
In fact, the +original+ recipe was a mix of acetone and PSF (power steering
fluid). Look it up.
I've tried the latter.. and the two simply +will not+ mix. They separate
like oil & water, for some reason. Can't speak as to the acetone / ATF mix,
so the whole thing remains a mystery.
Just get a can of Kroil (lol).
On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 11:05 PM, dwight <dkelvey at hotmail.com> wrote:
I've read, but not tried, that transmission fluid
and acetone
makes the best rust solvent.
I wonder if it is F type?
Dwight
9:24 p.m.
As for waxy coating, I work on old clocks as a hobby.
I've had to clean several movements covered in WD40.
About the only thing that cuts it is more WD40.
I almost always find corrosion anyplace brass and iron
are in contact.
Dwight
9:28 p.m.
What's more fun than a top posting / bottom posting discussion? A WD-40
discussion. We've heard it all before.
10:42 p.m.
On Wed, April 13, 2016 02:06, drlegendre . wrote:
The 'Zoom Spout' Turbine Oil (Supco, other
mfrs.) is brilliant for
lubricating any fine mechanisms. It's also quite inexpensive, and the
extensible spout is worth the price of the bottle alone. The oil contained
is crystal-clear and somewhere in the 5-10W range, non-detergent and will
not gum up.
Here's another little jewel, that no mechanical geek worth their salt
should be without - the General Tools 589 Precision Oiler. This is a
high-quality, leak-proof refillable oiler, that allows very precise
dispensing of even the smallest droplets.
As an example, eBay item #131703297238
On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 6:18 PM, Chuck Guzis <cclist at sydex.com> wrote:
Those are neat. I'll look for a similar one here locally.
There is still a sewing machine shop/repair shop nearby, I 'll go there
to add an extra bottle of oil to my supplies.
Ed
--
Ik email, dus ik besta.
BTC : 1J5fajt8ptyZ2V1YURj3YJZhe5j3fJVSHN
LTC : LP2WuEmYPbpWUBqMFGJfdm7pdHEW7fKvDz
On 04/12/2016 03:24 PM, dwight wrote:
Please don't put it on your teletype unless
you intend to
immediately rinse it off with solvent.
What Dwight said.
Kerosene or paint thinner makes a good cleaning solvent. SAE 5 "white"
oil is a good lightweight lubricant; often used to lube sewing machines.
--Chuck
5:05 p.m.
On Apr 12, 2016, at 6:24 PM, dwight <dkelvey at
hotmail.com> wrote:
WD-40 is not a lubricant or a solvent, although it can work as one
at times, but only for a short time.
When it dries it leaves behind a waxy substance, also no a lubricant.
It is a water dispersant used to get condensation out of an ignition
system.
I suppose it might do that, but that's not its main purpose. Its main purpose is to
loosen rusted and otherwise stuck fasteners and shafts.
It isn't a particularly good rust protector
either. I've seen cases
were it actually causes rust corrosion.
Please don't put it on your teletype unless you intend to immediately
rinse it off with solvent.
Exactly.
paul
10:36 p.m.
On Tue, April 12, 2016 23:55, Christian Gauger-Cosgrove wrote:
On 12 April 2016 at 15:55, E. Groenenberg <ed at
groenenberg.net> wrote:
I know of the Greenkeys list, I joined them 2 weeks ago. I'm going to
look for a proper hose in a few days.
I remember that I used some years go one of those rubber feet, and it did
work well but then I bought some parts from nc.com (when they did stock
much more than today), and acquired a few original rubber hammer pads.
But all the pads I have have become useless now due to gooeing.
It does not have the LT33 modification, although I have seen one once.
That punchread mechanism had an extra position.
My machine is a more or less 'standard' ASR33.
I was not aware of the possible reproduction of rubber hammer pads, I
certainly would be interested in some.
Ed
--
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First thing I did was to replace the gooed up
rubber hammer, only to
find out that my replacements were also starting to deteriorate :(
(but still stiff enough to be usable for some print test).
I can either use a piece of hose or one of those little self adhesive
rubber feet.
So, first thing's first, I'll going to provide you with this link the
the GreenKeys mailing list. They know pretty much everything about
Teletype machines, and more importantly one of the list members there
has started making reproduction/replacements for the old Teletype
print hammers. <http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/greenkeys>
Don't go with the adhesive rubber foot, it'll fly off and either hit
you, or lodge in the mechanism and you'll have a bad time. Rubber hose
is the best, unless you decide to buy a new hammer.
Only thing what does not work yet is that the
paper reader does not
start
when I flip the switch to the 'start' position (it is a 3 position
switch).
Any ideas how to make this work?
If it has the DEC LT33 modifications, which might be the case if it
used to be part of a DEC system, or was similarly modified by other
manufacturers it will have a reader run relay, which can be triggered
on the DLV11-K. I don't have the pinouts to hand to tell you exactly
which one. If the reader run relay isn't energized the reader won't
run; it's how the computer did flow control when using the reader.
13 Apr
13 Apr
12:13 a.m.
I have a supply of the new hammer pads in the UK. Their maker sent them to me for
distribution in the zUK and Europe. I think it is about $7 for 10 (would need to check,
but it is around that price)
Regards
Rob
Sent from my Windows 10 phone
From: E. Groenenberg
Sent: 13 April 2016 08:41
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Subject: Re: A fruitfull evening
On Tue, April 12, 2016 23:55, Christian Gauger-Cosgrove wrote:
On 12 April 2016 at 15:55, E. Groenenberg <ed at
groenenberg.net> wrote:
I know of the Greenkeys list, I joined them 2 weeks ago. I'm going to
look for a proper hose in a few days.
I remember that I used some years go one of those rubber feet, and it did
work well but then I bought some parts from nc.com (when they did stock
much more than today), and acquired a few original rubber hammer pads.
But all the pads I have have become useless now due to gooeing.
It does not have the LT33 modification, although I have seen one once.
That punchread mechanism had an extra position.
My machine is a more or less 'standard' ASR33.
I was not aware of the possible reproduction of rubber hammer pads, I
certainly would be interested in some.
Ed
--
Ik email, dus ik besta.
BTC : 1J5fajt8ptyZ2V1YURj3YJZhe5j3fJVSHN
LTC : LP2WuEmYPbpWUBqMFGJfdm7pdHEW7fKvDz
First thing I did was to replace the gooed up
rubber hammer, only to
find out that my replacements were also starting to deteriorate :(
(but still stiff enough to be usable for some print test).
I can either use a piece of hose or one of those little self adhesive
rubber feet.
So, first thing's first, I'll going to provide you with this link the
the GreenKeys mailing list. They know pretty much everything about
Teletype machines, and more importantly one of the list members there
has started making reproduction/replacements for the old Teletype
print hammers. <http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/greenkeys>
Don't go with the adhesive rubber foot, it'll fly off and either hit
you, or lodge in the mechanism and you'll have a bad time. Rubber hose
is the best, unless you decide to buy a new hammer.
Only thing what does not work yet is that the
paper reader does not
start
when I flip the switch to the 'start' position (it is a 3 position
switch).
Any ideas how to make this work?
If it has the DEC LT33 modifications, which might be the case if it
used to be part of a DEC system, or was similarly modified by other
manufacturers it will have a reader run relay, which can be triggered
on the DLV11-K. I don't have the pinouts to hand to tell you exactly
which one. If the reader run relay isn't energized the reader won't
run; it's how the computer did flow control when using the reader.
12 Apr
12 Apr
7:38 p.m.
For replacement 33 parts, join the greenkeys list. Greenkeys is a slang
name for Teletypes, When the went to the newer style keycaps in the 40's or
maybe the 50's the color was green. A member had a injection mold made and
a run of the hammer buttons made. He has also made or is making other 33
parts.
A quick solution is to use a piece of PVC tubing. Works pretty well.
On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 12:55 PM, E. Groenenberg <ed at groenenberg.net> wrote:
So after cleaning up and reorganizing my computer/hobby room I thought it
was time to get the asr33 working again. It has a stuck carriage (at the
right end), and it would only go back after repeated CR's.
First thing I did was to replace the gooed up rubber hammer, only to
find out that my replacements were also starting to deteriorate :(
(but still stiff enough to be usable for some print test).
I can either use a piece of hose or one of those little self adhesive
rubber feet.
Closer inspection showed that the pawl of the advancing/return section
was barely moving. With the application of WD40 using a small brush
loosened the gummed up oil/grease and with some more cleaning and light
machine oil it was behaving as it should.
Next was to get it working as a console (it works fine in local mode,
puncher and reader do what they need to do).
I have one of these DLV11-KB's (EIA/20mA converters), and one of them
was already configured for teletype use. The schematic also notes that
these can be used for ASR-33 use.
A flat mate-n-lok plug was made for the 20mA side, as well as a rs232 cable
for the EIA side. Little note here is that the DLV11-KB uses 12V as power,
so 2 wires were used to go to a wall wart adapter counter plug.
Check power -> ok
Check cables -> ok.
Set VT220 to 7E2, 110 baud -> ok
power on ASR -> ok
Hmm, the print-head is constantly hopping and typed chars on the VT
do not appear. Then again typed chars on the ASR do show on the VT screen.
Ok, power off the ASR, and look at the back of the ASR terminal strip.
Ahh, wire 6 & 7 are used other way around, so swapping 2 pins on the
mate-n-lok is all what is needed.
Power on ASR -> ok, no hopping print-head this time, and chars type on
the VT do print on the ASR. Jippy!
Only thing what does not work yet is that the paper reader does not start
when I flip the switch to the 'start' position (it is a 3 position switch).
Any ideas how to make this work?
All in all a few hours well spend.
Ed
--
Ik email, dus ik besta.
BTC : 1J5fajt8ptyZ2V1YURj3YJZhe5j3fJVSHN
LTC : LP2WuEmYPbpWUBqMFGJfdm7pdHEW7fKvDz
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