Oddly enough, vintage TVs using pictures tubes of the
same size as the
Strange... I've found the detailed characteristics of flybacks from
different monitors to be very different.
monitors you are trying to repair often have flybacks
that could be used
with a bit of tinkering. You need only a few voltages out, and if you
And if you're not lucky, you need a supply of output transistors ;-)
know if the original monitor was tube or solid state
then you know
somewhat what vintage TVs to hunt for (thrift stores/flea markets). You
also need to find one that has similar horizontal and vertical yoke
resistances to your monitor, as well as the B+. If you find these then
flybacks are somewhat interchangable with some mucking around to get the
pinout to match your monitor requirements. Due to the frequency these
are running at a CGA monitor yoke I would expect that the impedance
Alas not all classic computers run at TV rates (GGA). For example I was
using a composite video monitor yesterday with a 22kHz horizontal scan
rate. I have no idea where I would get a replacement flyback for that.
should be similar to the impedance of a similar sized
TV yoke with
similar resistance windings to your monitor.
I remember (just) whem there were sort-of generic TV flybacks that could
be used in may sets by connecting them correctly. And the ont thing that
was emphasises was that it was the inducatance, not the resistance, that
mattered (both of the flyback and of the yoke). In any case the DC
resistance of most ohizotnal deflection coils used in transistorised
monitors is a lot less than 1 ohm, and therefore diffiuclt to measure
with any accuracy.
Schematics of your monitor and the TV you are swiping the flyback from
would be a big help...
Scheamtics are not normally the problem...
Flybacks design is available (perhaps at a cost) from places like:
http://www.innovatia.com/Design_Center/mag_desn.htm
As I think is well-known on classiccmp, I prefer to do things myself
rahter than to get somebofy else to do it. Not just for cost and
enjoyment reasons, but also because if nobody carries on this sort of
thing, the knowledge could be lost.
Which I found that as an early choice using the following search term
"flyback transformer theory" in google. A bit further down there are a
few PDFs on desinging Flybacks.
You can test flybacks using Bob Parker's Blue Ring Tester (sold at a few
places - like my shop) or you can make your own ring tester using a
I have a homemade one based on a design published in 'Television'
magazine in the UK (back when said publication actually had useful stuff
in it). IIRC it's a 4011 chip running as an oscillator driving a power
transistor that energises the primary winding of the flyback which has a
capacitor connected across it to resonate it. You look at the riinging
waveform with a 'scope (_any_ 'scope). A good flyback rings, one with
shorted turns is massively damped.
This is, alas, not a complete test. It will not pick up shorted HV
rectifiers inside the flyback. And some colour monitor flybacks have a
'diode split overwind' (the EHT winding is in several sections with
diodes conencted between them). It will not detect shorted diodes or
inter-widing shorts there. But it does a good job most of the time.
scope and an audio signal generator - simply pump into
the flyback a
couple of volts at the flyback frequency and see what comes out of the
lower voltage windings...should look fairly clean if the flyback is OK.
I have some older B&W flybacks for Motorola B&W monitors as used in
video games in the 1970s as well. These tend to be open frame flybacks.
THose can sometimes be repaired. Alas many of the machines I work on have
totally encapsulated flybacks (sometimes, i nthe case of colour monitors,
also including a thick-film unit with potentiometers to set the A1 (G2 to
you) and focus voltages. That's the sort I am wondering about how to
replce. In some cases, they never were available as an individual spare
parts (only as the complete PCB), so finding a spare is going to be
impossible. I would have to make one.
-tony