Thanks all for the comments - as usual, this list offers up stuff you
can't get with Google.? Bill,? you started a thought in your comment but
didn't complete it - was it significant?: ? ? ? ? "and if you can find
away to transport the TTY with the..."
Steve
On 10/27/2018 6:46 AM, Bill Degnan via cctalk wrote:
On Fri, Oct 26, 2018, 11:31 PM Tony Duell via cctalk
<cctalk at classiccmp.org>
wrote:
On Sat, Oct 27, 2018 at 3:38 AM steve shumaker
via cctalk
<cctalk at classiccmp.org> wrote:
OK, got it. Will be my first one. Now, how does
one transport the
thing? Does it easily come off the pedestal? Can it be laid on it's
back? Anything need to be secured before it gets moved?
It does come off the
stand easily. Do not lay it on its back without
either removing or securing the typing unit (main mechanical chassis).
To expand on that....
To get it off the stand, first take the backplate off the stand (I think
it's
a couple of obvious screws). There may be a power supply for the reader
inside the stand, there may be other electronics (unlikely). Unplug the
cables.IIRC the reader power supply just unclips.
There are 4 screws going up through the top flanges of the stand into the
base pan of the machine. Get a couple of (strong) friends to steady the
machine
itself and take the screws out. Then just lift it off the stand. It
_will_ tip forwards
if not steadied, hence needing the friends.
The typing unit is only resting on rubber vibration isolators, it is not
fixed
down. There is a hole on the bottom of the machine where you can fit
a screw (it was some kind of self-tapping thing) into the cast metal
base of the typing unit to anchor it. But I find it easier to remove the
typng unit.
To do that, take off the top cover : Pull off the knob on the front and the
platten knob. Slide the front nameplate thing down to remove it. Take
out the screws thus exposed, the thumbscrews on the back. There may
be a screw at the rear left corner of the reader cover (on the side) but
it is almost always missing. Lift off the cover.
Unplug the connectors at the back of the call control unit (electronics
chassis) and disconnect the wires from the little leaf swtich at the rear
right of the typng unit.
Now look down behind the rear right corner of the keyboard. There's
a flat metal plate, the 'H plate', so called because of its shape that
connects the keyboard trip linkage to the typing unit. Put a flat
blade screwdriver in the slot and slide the H plate against spring
tension to free it. Get it out.
Then lift the typing unit -- complete with the carriage, motor, and
tape punch -- up slightly. Slide it towards the rear to free the runout
linkage from under the keyboard. Take the typing unit all the way out.
-tony
Really check carefully for the small inset screw near the reader on the
side of most tty covers. If you try to remove the cover before removing
this screw you'll RIP the cover near the reader and possibly crack the
cover. The presence of this screw is a good sign, it means that the
teletype has never been parted out and/or only serviced by a professional.
Take good photos before you disassemble anything. Avoid removing the cover
of the keyboard keys at all costs.
See
vintagecomputer.net/teletype/ from there download a how to "101" pdf
with useful info how to wire it up and a few other things about getting
started not already mentioned..
It is very possible that the reader motor is installed in the pedestal. If
so, you will have to detach it first before you remove the TTY from the
pedestal (not sure if this was already mentioned). Take good pictures
before you remove the reader motor from the pedestal because it tends to
fall apart the way it's installed into pieces that will have to be
re-assembled.
I usually remove the screws from inside of the pedestal. There is no
reason to disassemble the actual TTY for transport and if you can find a
way to transport the TTY with the
My getting-started philosophy is to clean out the dust and crud, check the
fuses, make sure the printer and keyboard bars are straight, make sure the
4 gold pins in the reader are straight and replace the print hammer
rubber. Then power it on in LOCAL mode. If it does not continuously
chatter you're in good shape. Start with the local keyboard/printer to
work first. Leave things like the UCC-6 (power supply) and reader relay
(if there is one) as is until you know why you need to change something.
TTYs have a different wiring but you need to understand the context of how
it was used before you return yours to "stock". If you determine you need
to oil a stuck part use sewing machine oil or NYE oil (my choice), but it
will not hurt a clean TTY to hold off on the oil until you start heavy
use. They're pretty robust machines.
Bill