The keyboard seems to be a major problem though.
I'm not too keen on
desoldering 65 keys (4 contacts per key), but I don't see any way to
This sounds as thought it might be slightly differnt to my keyboard. I
only rememebr 2 contacts per key. On the other hand, when I ordered a
replacement keyswitch for my Model 3 (about 20 years ago), I did have to
specify the brand of the keyboard PCB (Radio shack apparently bought
these in). The keyboards in oth my M3 and M4 are ALPS brand, FWIW.
The reason I mention this is that dismantling the switches themselves
will vary between brands.
avoid this. Soldering is not my strong point, and
even if I can do it
cleanly that is a lot of work.
The good news is that (at least for the ALPS keyoard), it's a
single-sided PCB, bot plated through. So it desolders quite easily, The
bad news is that it's a cheap SRBP oard, and the traces lift all too
I've completely sesoldered several keyboards for repair. It takes me an
afternoon to get them apart without damage (and a lot less time to get it
back together again).
I guess if you need soldering practice, though, this is not a bad project
ot undertake. There arer no ICs on the keyoard PCB, so there's no risk of
static damage, and the parts are not particularly thermalliy sensitive.
The rest of the machine looks pretty good. I'm
going to set the
keyboard aside for now and work on cleaning the drives.
I don;t know what drives you have (Tandon TM100s were fairly standard),
but if you take them significantly apart, you'll need an alignment disk
and 'scope when you come to put them back together. Again, something that
doesn't worry me _at all_ now, but it might be a problem for you.
If you want to take the drives apart to clean them, let me (us?) know the
model number (or any markings on them). I can then give you an idea what
what you can take off without losing the alignment.