8 Oct
2012
8 Oct
'12
10:59 a.m.
On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 1:17 PM, David Riley <fraveydank at gmail.com> wrote:
Well, I wanted it to remain straight in the end; it
just needed to
go straight up through the walls. The problem was one of simple
geometry, specifically inserting a 10-foot pipe vertically into the
wall-ceiling junction of a 6-foot basement. I didn't particularly
want to cut it, and the pipe resumed its previous shape fairly
quickly once I got it into the wall.
Gotcha. That's part of why I went with Innerduct - I'd worked with it
in a commercial setting and was able to buy 100' off the reel at a local
Granger's supply.
If I were trying large PVC conduit in a short basement, I'd also consider
a joint in the middle, but it seems that you worked it all out.
I was just lucky enough that the folks who had
rehabbed the house
back in the '80s and added an HVAC system had left extra space
around the old chimney when they put in the duct work (and also
lucky that said space intersected my office). I ended up with
a built-in channel running straight from the basement to the
top floor for free; all I needed was to put a pipe in there so
the wires had some guidance going down.
I had the same advantage in my 85-yro house (now 98-yro!) - next
to the stackpipe is a laundry chute from the bathroom to the
basement. The back bedroom shared a wall with that, and there
was room around it to run the innerduct. I did have to rip a large
hole in the bedroom wall to mount the various duplex boxes
since it wasn't easy to find larger low-voltage boxes. Now, I
can goe to Lowe's and get the big orange plastic wall boxes
that even directly accept (with concentric breakouts) 1" and
larger conduit.
If I ever build a house, I'm going to run innerduct all over
the place. The stuff is really handy to work with (and comes
with pull-rope/tape already installed). It's specifically designed
for fiber, but there's no problem sharing the space with
twisted pair low-voltage cables.
-ethan