22 Sep
2011
22 Sep
'11
1:32 p.m.
Ah, yes, I bumped the tray as well, causing the flaps
to fly.
Now you know the trick :-). More seriously, if you hook the springs over
the housigns, you can even turn the whole thing over without the flaps
falling out, and assemble it the right way up if you want to.
Indeed.
It's probably stronger than the original. I don't like heat-stakes...
That's probably the only problem with the Model M. Some of them have the
rattle-rattle of rivets heads bouncing around. I noticed a web page where it's suggested you
use 2mm screws. What I do
is drill the holes with a 2mm twist dril lan then tap them M2.5. I put
M2.5 screws in from the top side (screwing them into the newly-tapped
holes in the plastic frame), then assemble the flaps, membrane and
baseplate nad fit washers and nuts on the bottom.
I used the screws themselves to tap the holes. You cna't fit screws inthe very bottom edge,
it'll not go in the case if
you do. And there are a couple of other places where you either can't fit
a screw or you have to flie the head down to clear the wire loop that
stabilises some of the larger keys.
I found that if you do without the bottom edge screws, there really isn't
any problem. It all sticks together rather strongly. I solved the head clearance problem by countersinking the screws.
I wanted to avoid doing that for fear of weakening the key frame too
much, it's only thin plastic after all. I found that with the exception
of 3 screws on the right hand edge (under the wire loops fro the + and
Enter keys, there's no problem using normal pan-head screws in this
keyboard. For those 3, I had to leave on out and foudn I could file down
the heads of the screws in the other 2 locations sufficiently for the
loops to fit without binding.
-tony