If you ask me
nicely, I can possibly provide help with doing that. I ha=
ve=20
taps and dies...
The lack of a decent drill press on this end might cause problems. I've=20
got a Dremel in a Wolfcraft stand (which IIRC can be assembled so the=20
drill faces sideways), but I use that mainly for drilling PCBs and doubt=20
it'd put up with me making it drill through the supports. At the very=20
least I'd need to figure out some method of alignment.
If this is the HP cabinet I think it is, then it all comes ap[art ot a
'flat pack' of alloy castings. Whcihj makes working on it a lot easier. A
PCB drill may not be powerful anough, but a good DIY-type drill ('good'
meaning has fgood bearings) should do it.
Alternatively you might consider gettign some metalework tools. You'll
not regret it -- the ability to make up aprts, repair things like this,
etc, come in very handy.
Where is 'here'?
Leeds. West Yorkshire. "Up North" (somewhat).
OK, I know where Leeds is.
Most electrical wholesalers, some DIY shops, and
maybe even Maplin, sel=
l=20
spare (or longer, etc) screws. Yes, I did once
use a couple in an=20
emergency to hold an HPIB cable in place.
I spent most of this morning ringing local DIY shops. Gave up after the=20
4th one. Turns out everyone's got countersunk M3.5x25 screws, but you're=20
basically stuffed if you want pan-head or cheese-head.
You never specified what head you wanted :-). If you think about the
intended use of holding sown light switches, etc, it's ovious why you can
only get ones to go in countersunk holes (most of the time they're raised
head, not true countersunk head screws). Can you not countersink the
holes in the feet?
Now back to finding out why the analyser won't
boot from floppy... I=20
hope it isn't a broken disc drive, that would be a bit of a problem=20
(though not an unsolvable one: two 34pin IDC crimp-on plugs, some IDC=20
At least it's not the Sony full-height 600rpm one (with a 26 pin
connector). I'll say it again -- if you have any HP (or Apricot, etc)
hardware that uses these drives, particularly the double-sided ones, take
them apart (I have some pictures on flickr that might help) and clean the
greas off the eject mechanism. Do it now, before the grease hardens, the
mechanism sticks and the top head is ripped off by an ejecting disk.
cable, a floppy drive power connector and a bit of
soldering). The=20
pinouts are in the Service Manual and it looks like a (fairly) standard=20
300RPM 3.5in slimline drive.
My guess is it has power on the data connector? HP used a DD drive like
that in soem of their machines that was a 600 rpm drive. It shares a lot
of parts (even one of the ASICs) with an Apple 800K drive. Now how did I
find that out...
-tony