Thanks for the input again..
On Mon, Sep 1, 2014 at 6:21 PM, Brent Hilpert <hilpert at cs.ubc.ca> wrote:
I haven't examined the schematic in enough detail to quite convince myself
for sure the board will work without the RFSH signal, but that would affect
the writing/retention.
I'm a bit confused.. all DRAMs need a refresh, and the doc for this board
is pretty explicit that it needs "the correct" (ugh!) phase of the clock
signal "on pins 24 & 25". Why would you think the board doesn't require
such a signal, that it has its own on-board refresh hardware? FWIW, there's
no crystal on-board to control an osc. to that level of precision.
To start in on board-level debugging, one thing to
check: if the board is
enabled and a valid address for the board is on the bus, then U4 pin 8
should be high.
Hey cool, that's the kind of info I need to keep me going. I'll take a
look
at that in a bit.. or, take a look at that bit in a while or something.
So here's a question or two. First off, how do you pronounce a letter
designation with a line over it - like the outputs of a flip-flop are Q and
(Q with overline). Do you say "Q high" or "Q prime".. "Q
complement" or
what? What about when a named signal such as CLOC or PWR has an overline?
Do you pronounce it "CLOC active high" or something?
(Does that line actually mean "active high"? - that's what I've
surmised..)
Finally, on the CPU board, pin 49 supplies the CLOC signal.. but it's
actually pins 25 & 24 that the DRAM card look to for +its+ clock signal.
Those pins are marked with what looks like a ?-1 and ?-2 (Greek Phi),
respectively. Is that actually a 'phi', and if so, what does it mean - what
are those signals, if not clock signals? And how do you pronounce them? It
could be a slashed-zero, too... "?".
(Generally Theta (?) is used to denote a phase / angular relationship or
quantity. it looks kinda like phi, but it's not.)
As for my trainer, or "chip tester" as I call it.. the only bad parts are
the +/-15 (var.) supplies. IIRC, the outputs are just the wipers of 1/4W
200R pots. Need to look at that again, and maybe it's time to install some
low-dropout linear regs ala LT1084 in there. Get some kind of stability and
over-current protection - when I received it, one of those pots was smoked.