On 8/24/10, Richard <legalize at xmission.com> wrote:
In article <AANLkTik64N9u9MuaY9=vx61kUXVozih5g0SHRzxUftR6 at mail.gmail.com>,
Ethan Dicks <ethan.dicks at gmail.com> writes:
I have one - it has two lines... There's an
8048 MCU inside, along with
two "SLIC"s (Subscriber Line ICs). The 8048 listens to DTMF tones and
provides various simulated faults or a solid connection based on the
number you dialed. [...]
As for a simple simulation at home, a 6VDC to 24VDC loop might be
enough to pull it off, though some devices won't know to pick up
unless you simulate an AC ring.
Sounds like a nice little arduino project?
If you mean as an enhancement to the COMBOX, that might be pretty
cool. I don't relish trying to hammer on the 8048 code - it was
written by a hardware engineer and has zero comments, zero vertical
formatting, and has tests followed by branches two and three code
pages later. The listing resembles the output of an automated
non-symbolic code disassembler (the same guy wrote the firmware for
our Qbus product - I had to re-write most of the structure for the
firmware for our VAX-BI card).
If you mean as a controller for a home-CO, I don't see the
application. If you need a powered loop (depending on the age of the
gear attached to it), you need enough DC voltage (up to 48VDC) to make
the two devices think they are attached to the POTS network. When we
were kids, that was a lantern battery to make a couple of analog
phones work for talking, for example. If the receiving device won't
connect without a ring (I've seen modems and such that needed ring
voltage to latch relays, but many devices can just be put in "ANSWER"
mode), that's another animal entirely. You can probably get away with
120VAC @ 60Hz, but officially, ISTR, it's more like 90VAC @ 20Hz.
That part should only matter if you are trying to get a mechanical
bell ringer to sound. An arduino won't help with establishing a DC
voltage, nor synthesizing an AC voltage (at least not in any way that
couldn't replaced by a 555 timer)
-ethan