The other trick xircom (pe3 at least) has is powering it either by a power adapter or from a passthrough keyboard plug.
I've heard good things about them but I do believe they need a bidirectional parallel port. I never find a bargain on them so haven't played with one yet but you can find them hovering around the $15 mark on a good day.
On Sun, Oct 28, 2012 at 10:17 PM, Zane H. Healy <healyzh at aracnet.com> wrote:
>
> As has been pointed out, MegaPixels is a poor judge, BUT, consider this,
> how many MP is in a sheet of 4"x5" or 8"x10" film, even when only scanned
> at 2400dpi? The best prints I've ever seen have been 8x10 contact prints
> made by Edward Weston. The sharpness of these prints, especially given the
> lenses he was using, is enough to blow ones mind! Digital *CAN NOT* touch
> a large format contact print done by a master of the craft!
>
Not sure if it is applicable in still-format photography, but in the motion
picture world there is a concept of film to resolution equivalence. It's
particularly important as with film you are enlarging the 35mm stock by
several thousand percent when scanning into the digital domain. A "pixel"
in the conversion is considered to be the smallest object that can be
resolved and reproduced by the film or sensor. When using that comparison,
a 35mm print is roughly 20 megapixels, or 8K resolution, assuming the film
was shot and developed under ideal conditions. Scanning at any higher
resolution doesn't buy you more detail, as you start getting into the grain
at that point.
therefore whats needed is a piece of ribbon cable or mort modern 3.5 only floppy cable, iow dual inline connectors at opposite ends, and a card edge in between?
------------------------------
On Sun, Oct 28, 2012 1:10 PM PDT Fred Cisin wrote:
>On Sat, 27 Oct 2012, Chris Tofu wrote:
>> mine is longer then any Ive seen on various sites. Probably older. Need
>> docs and s/w, though what Ive downloaded may be appropriate. Anyone ever
>> use their (discrete logic) version with 8 inch drives?
>
>I can tell you the contents of the docs that came with it!
>1) connect in inline in the cable between the disk controller and the
>drive. It originally came with with a short cable with a 34 pin card edge
>and 34 pin dual-inline connector. You could reverse that cable to connect
>to your FDC and either connector of the board. Then your existing drive
>cable connects to the other connector.
>"Do all connections and anstallation with the computer turned off!"
>Run the supplied software.
>
>Although much more verbose, that was all that the documentation said.
>
>It didn't even give the meaning of the jumper or switch that some models
>had, labelled "Compaq/Other"
>
>
>At one time, they permitted me access to a "secret" page of instructions
>on how to program it. Several parts of that page did not match what was
>done in their supplied software (disassembly). I have since seen that
>page show up in a few places on the web.
>
>
>--
>Grumpy Ol' Fred cisin at xenosoft.com
>
>
>
ok so what is your opinion on painting macs, FI black?
------------------------------
On Tue, Oct 30, 2012 4:02 AM PDT Joost van de Griek wrote:
>No.
>
>On 30 okt. 2012, at 11:17, Chris Tofu <rampaginggreenhulk at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> if not will they still w/great difficulty
>
>Of course.
>
>.tsooJ
>--
>Wherever you go, there you are.
>--
>Joost van de Griek
><http://www.jvdg.net/>
Hi all,
I'm decyphering an encoding scheme that was used to compress source
code decks. It's from an old obscure IBM 1130 program (CMXP, written by
Wil Baden, part of set of enhancements that let source code be stored,
edited, and compiled directly from disk. Radical! Visionary!)
The compressed format uses 6 bits to encode each character, but it's
not any of the standard IBM 6-bit EBCD schemes I've found through
Google. It *might* be unique to this compression/decompression program,
whose source I haven't found yet. (And if the source does turn up it'll
likely be compressed using this format -- so unless the character codes
are in the source as hex constants, the source may not help).
Here is what I've been able to map out so far, from a small fragment of
an encoded source deck:
Hex value
00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 0A 0B 0C 0D 0E 0F
-- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
00 sp A B C D E F G H I . )
10 + J K L M N O P Q R *
20 - / S T U V W X Y Z , (
30 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 =
where "sp" is space. I am absolutely certain of the encoding of the
space, alphabet, digits, slash, comma, period, parentheses, and
asterisk. I'm pretty sure of the plus, minus, and equals. For the ones
I've left blank, I have no idea yet; either the codes aren't in the
sample I examined or I can't guess what the character is from the
context. If I read in more cards they might become clear.
I've found some CDC codes where / precedes S, but the row ordering is
different.
Does this encoding ring any bells for anyone? (Again, it might not
belong to any standard).
Thanks
Brian
I did this in the '80s and it worked very well, I used it as a kind of
software interrupt in a communications handler that had to handle both
input and output at the same time from the same terminal. Unfortunately
I
don't rememver exactly how I did it, and I no longer have access to the
source code.
But I did find this in the HP Pascal for OpenVMS User manual, section
5.1.4
on page 5-6:
Asynchronous system trap routines (ASTs) and RMS completion routines
must
have both the ASYNCHRONOUS and UNBOUND attributes. Because they
are asynchronous, such routines can access only volatile variables,
predeclared
routines, and other asynchronous routines.
The Language Reference mentions the User manual near the end in
conjunction
with volatile variables.
You might also need to declare the variable p as volatile somewhere.
The User manual is here:
http://h71000.www7.hp.com/doc/82final/6140/aa-pxsnd-tk.pdf
You would probably want to read chapter 5 in there.
Hope this helps.
/Jonas
I have a Seagate ST336706LC (10KRPM 36GB SCA-2) HD that quit working one day (doesn't light up, isn't detected, no humming or spinning). Was wondering if there is a fuse or something fixable on this drive (I kept my hardware drivers on it and not all of them are backed up). Mostly just want to get the data back before I toss it if possible.
Any ideas?
> From: jim s <jws at jwsss.com>
> Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 22:34:13 -0700
> Subject: B6700 story from Sharktank
>
> "It's 2 o'clock in the morning. Halloween. Suddenly, the two screens go blank. Then two closed eyes appear. Slowly open. Eyeballs look slowly to the left, then slowly to the right -- then slowly stare straight ahead. Then eyelids slowly close, the two displays blank, and go back to scrolling plain text.
>
> "Of course, nobody is going to believe the operator..."
A friend at CDC gave me a punched card deck that would run that program.
The computer operators at the University were more than a little
freaked out when they saw the eyes.
No, I don't have the card deck anymore.
--
Michael Thompson
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 12:25:26 -0400
From: Keith Monahan <keithvz at verizon.net>
To: cctalk at classiccmp.org
Subject: PLCC extraction tool
Message-ID: <508FFF76.6050409 at verizon.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
I've got to remove a PLCC from a socket, and intend on just using a
couple screwdrivers/picks.
I may need to do this a few times, but I generally don't find the need
to do it.
Is a specialized PLCC extraction tool really required/much easier/safer/etc?
There seem to be a ton of tools online starting around $2 US a piece. If
I'm going to spend the time/shipping to order one, I may as well get a
decent one. Can anyone recommend a specific model/US source for it?
Warning, levering them out with a tool can easily crack the socket, then you
will get poor contact. I've got a $10 tool that easily fits the larger
sockets,
but the first time I used it on a 68-pin PLCC, the pulling hooks broke off.
I filed new hooks out of decent steel and brazed them to the existing
tool's arms, and it works great, now. So, I can't recommend an
off-the shelf tool that actually works well right out of the box.
Jon
I've got to remove a PLCC from a socket, and intend on just using a
couple screwdrivers/picks.
I may need to do this a few times, but I generally don't find the need
to do it.
Is a specialized PLCC extraction tool really required/much easier/safer/etc?
There seem to be a ton of tools online starting around $2 US a piece. If
I'm going to spend the time/shipping to order one, I may as well get a
decent one. Can anyone recommend a specific model/US source for it?
Thanks,
Keith
Hello,
I'm searching for Unibus disk controllers for my 11/24 and 11/730 machines.
It could be ESDI, SMD or better SCSI, of course the price will change.
Also an RL02 or RX02 interface could be interesting, if somebody has
one to rid of.
I already have an SDI interface, but no SDI working disk, unfortunately...
Preferred location is within EU.
Thanks
Andrea
From the Computerworld Sharktank. I think this also the system with
the B in the lights as well.
Flashback to the mid-1960s, when the Control Data 6600 computer was the
fastest thing going, according to this IT pilot fish who remembers it well.
"It was about 1 megaFLOPS," says fish. "The operator console, manned
24/7 of course, had two large, circular CRT screens, side-by-side, that
almost always displayed operator messages scrolling up the screens. As
long as those messages were scrolling, the operator seldom had to pay
attention to them.
"But the CRTs were actually vector displays, capable of more, under
program control.
"It's 2 o'clock in the morning. Halloween. Suddenly, the two screens go
blank. Then two closed eyes appear. Slowly open. Eyeballs look slowly to
the left, then slowly to the right -- then slowly stare straight ahead.
Then eyelids slowly close, the two displays blank, and go back to
scrolling plain text.
"Of course, nobody is going to believe the operator..."
I currently have a dual-channel 30mhz analog scope, the Intronix
34-channel 500mhz 2k samples max logic analyzer, a Saleae Logic
8-channel 24mhz unlimited samples and a (much) older 60mhz DSO on it's
last legs.
The 30 & 60 mhz analog scopes are simply too big and cumbersome to use.
These new scopes are much smaller and more convenient.
For logic analyzers, I have FAST, WIDE, but short buffer. And a slow,
narrow, mega-long buffer(limited by PC RAM more or less). These both
have their good points but to round out my tools, I need something that
ballparks 200mhz, 32-channels, and decent buffer. What's a decent
buffer? I don't know exactly. I know 2k isn't even close. And that a
million+ is really nice.
These are both PC-based logic analyzers and I'm fine with that. The
software is sufficient with both and gets me the measurements I need.
Of course, I'd prefer standalone units but still would like to export
data to a PC (say via USB or serial). This would simplify the process
and the UIs of dedicated devices have usually been thought out a little
more than the PC software.....
I was seriously looking at a Rigol DS1102D which is 100mhz, 16-channel
LA + 2 analog channels. My only real beef is that it's 16-channels and
not 32. Could really use 32 to do a 16-bit data bus and other stuff
(partial address, etc)
I can't easily tell looking at the specs what the depth of the LA would
be. Would I simply divide the 1 million point memory by the 16 channels?
http://www.rigolna.com/products/digital-oscilloscopes/ds1000d/ds1102d/
Rigol's have gotten great reviews.
Or do I get a scope only, and then use something cheap like this
http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/Open_Bench_Logic_Sniffer
and solder another 16-pin header onto that and go 32-channels, 200mhz,
6k depth. Or buy a kickass eval board and hack SUMP onto it, and get a
deeper solution.....
While I'm a huge fan of HP and Tektronix, and I know there is old
hardware at reasonable prices --- I don't want to mess with trying to
piece parts a large mainframe together from untrusted sources, and spend
time trying to fix something like that. Plus, the specs are normally not
even close to that of modern equipment. I'd rather invest time hacking
verilog onto a new eval board that has plenty of fast memory...............
Any discussion would be helpful.
Thanks,
Keith
http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum/showthread.php?31323-New-Book-is-a-…
He mentioned it on the vintage computer forums.
http://macgui.com/newa2guide/ I think is the official link. Apparently
this is the 2nd revision which does correct some errors. From the chapter
previews I'm surprised how much information is in the book. I haven't
bought or read it but it's certainly tempting and definitely seems like
enough to get someone with the equipment up and running these days.
I have a large number of surplus DE9F to 8P8C (RJ45) adapters available if
someone can use some. I counted at least 350, but I'm not sure of the
exact number. When I bought them many years ago, I was expecting to get
adapters that had all 8 wires present (based on the photo the seller
provided) but what he sent me were pre-wired and three of the wires are
clipped away down inside the adapter body. (It might be possible to extend
those three wires, but I didn't want to spend the time on it.) The
adapters are labeled with a "PC" sticker, so I have to assume they were
originally used to connect to a PC serial port of some sort. (Mixed in
with these were a handful of DE9M to 8P8C adapters labeled "UPS" that have
5 wires similarly clipped away).
These are located on the US side of the pond, and whoever might want some
will have to cover the postage. I don't think these adapters are really
worth very much, although I certainly won't complain if someone wants to
pay something for some of them and help offset my original purchase cost.
I didn't pay /too/ much for them, although I doubt I'd have bought them at
all had the seller been up front about what he had.
If these adapters sound useful at all I can see about taking some photos
and a work up the pinout. I just really can't see me ever using ~350 of
these things :)
It has been many years since I wrote any VAX-Pascal and I find myself
needing to write an AST. I have looked around in various documentation
but can't find any examples. The AST I want to write is in response to
the completion of a QIO. The QIO call looks like this:
Stat := $QIO(0, Channel, IO$_WRITEVBLK, , %IMMED SendCompleted, 0, Buf, Len);
And the AST itself looks like this (no body at the moment, just want
to make it work first):
[ASYNCHRONOUS] PROCEDURE SendCompleted( P : UNSIGNED);
BEGIN
END;
When I run the code though I get a runtime error:
%SYSTEM-F-ACCVIO, access violation, reason mask=00, virtual
address=00000000, PC
=000008C1, PSL=03C00000
%TRACE-F-TRACEBACK, symbolic stack dump follows
module name routine name line rel PC abs PC
DMC11SEND SENDCOMPLETED 67 00000009 000008C1
801D58F3 801D58F3
0001E893 0001E893
DMC11SEND SEND 77 00000070 00000938
DMC11SEND DMC11SEND 111 00000179 000006BD
I am not sure what I have done wrong, anyone know?
Thanks
Rob
> Wait... That Ken Rockwell article says *nothing* about film
> grain. I even searched it for the word grain. How on earth
> can you write an article about the relative resolution of film
> without a word regarding grain?!
That's right. If anyone starts believing that "no grain" is the same
as "high resolution" then we end up back in the mushy microdol-X era
where every photo is just... blah.
I far prefer a nice roll/sheet of Tri-X or HP5 developed in
a high-acutance developer that really makes for obvious sharp
snappy grain. Oh it's so beautiful.
For fans of color... the 1600 color slide films available in the late
80's/early 90's, when push processed a few stops, are amazing.
Astoundingly huge and sharp color grain. I love it.
Tim.
With this talk about tintypes, I was wondering if anyone had any pointers
on where to get an inexpensive 4x5 field camera.
--
David Griffith
dgriffi at cs.csubak.edu
A: Because it fouls the order in which people normally read text.
Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing?
A: Top-posting.
Q: What is the most annoying thing in e-mail?
From: Chuck Guzis < cclist at sydex.com >
>On 10/28/2012 09:19 PM, Paul Anderson wrote:
>> That would probably wet plate photography. People are definitely
>> still doing it, and getting some incredibly beautiful results.
>
>I'll bet that if you search hard enough, you can still find people who
>make tintypes.
>
>--Chuck
Tintypes are too new. How about daguerreotypes?
http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes
Bob
Hello everyone,
I was hoping for some definite direction in my endless quest to fix my C64. I don't have a lot of free time to work on this. So it is ongoing in many ways. Plus I am cautious about doing things that I know little about. Which can be good especially when you get people that give you conflicting advice. I do find a lot of helpful people on IRC, but you have to sort out what they are all telling you. I won't want to go and start buying all sorts of stuff and equipment without knowing why or then finding that I should have bought Y, when I bought X.
I know a little. Bits and pieces here and there, but nothing that will give me confidence to just dive in.
This is my quest to learn how to repair my C64:
I started with my original C64 which I bought in 1987. I had left it in a garage for two years and then tried to use it and it didn't work.
First I was told that I should clean my C64 with regular dish detergent and a hair dryer. I was told that this would solve many problems. Sounds unsafe, but I guess I will try it.
Then I was told that I should buy another C64 since it isn't worth repairing them, since they are so plentifully available and cheap. So now I have many non-working ones.
Then I need to replace chips that are bad, so I need to know how to solder and de-solder. Which kind of device to get ? There are different wattages and if you do it wrong then you burn up your boards (as a friend of mine did with more soldering experience did). Do I get a combination desolder sucker ? Or a little squeeze one ? Or a push and suck stick ? Do I get a soldering station ? A braider ? Too many different choices and combinations. I prefer something that will work and not damage my boards, and for desoldering, something that won't give me repetitive stress injury.
Then I'm told to get a diagnostic cartridge for C64, which works well expect when the PLA chip is bad and there you can't see video.
Then I should get a diagnostic harness, which works better, but again you need video.
Then I find a Diagnose 64 cartridge which tells you which chips are bad very simply with LED lights, but they are hard to find. I'm borrowing one right now from a friend and figuring out how to use now.
Then I'm told to get a multimeter, how do I use ? Which one to get ? I get one, then I'm told there is a better that could have been gotten for a little more money.
Then I'm told to get a logic probe. Which one ? Again, how to use ?
Then I'm told a logic probe is not as good as an oscilloscope. Which one ? How to use ? Then I'm told that I don't need an oscilloscope.
Then I'm told to go to Ray Carlsen's site and that will have everything I need. http://personalpages.tds.net/~rcarlsen/cbm.html. Which is very nice, but I'm a beginner and I don't need just a bunch of schematics and reference material. I need step by step method which explains which tools, techniques etc. that I need to do.
Then I'm told that going to the Rob Clarke and Bil Herd workshop would give me everything that I need to know. It is good information, but not hands on.
Jeff B