Does anyone have a list of the IOT instructions (and what they do) for
the TD8E simple dectape controller?
--
Christopher L McNabb
Operating Systems Analyst Email: cmcnabb(a)4mcnabb.net
Virginia Tech ICBM: 37.1356N 80.4272N
GMRS: WPSR255 ARS: N2UX Grid Sq: EM97SD
On Dec 9, 0:06, Tony Duell wrote:
> > > and squeeze handle. This snips and crimps over one lead at a time by
> > > hand-power. When done "loose" components is secure and ready for
> > > soldering process. Looks like pistol style.
> > >
> > > Where can I find THAT tool and what it is called?
> >
> > Variously known as a "cut and clench" tool or "cut and squeeze" pliers.
> > Prices for basic pressed steel versions are as low as ten pounds.
>
> They have various alternative names, which can't be used on a 'family'
> mailing list like this one. Such names are used by the poor hackers who
> have to remove the components again :-)
Particularly the type that squeeze the component lead to make it twice as
thick :-)
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
> [2] The user types in the string and presses Submit, and it runs the CGI
>
> ...
>
> Now the script generates a page with the real email address as a mailto
> hyperlink. The user may bookmark this page if he/she wishes.
Why expose the address at all? How about you send the (plain text only)
note on to the addressee w/o disclosing the address. If the recipient
wants the sender to know their address, they'll respond to them.
The same script could be used if there are any pages on the classiccmp
web site where a user could/should have an opportunity to send mail,
e.g. to the site maintainer, members listed as contacts or resources
for system XYZ, etc.
Just a thought,
--Steve.
On Dec 8, 17:05, jpero(a)sympatico.ca wrote:
> I once saw on factory electronics assembly tape, a assembler held say
> large cap with untrimmed legs thru circuit board and inserts the
> tool's barrel down that wire w/ barrel end snug against circuit board
> and squeeze handle. This snips and crimps over one lead at a time by
> hand-power. When done "loose" components is secure and ready for
> soldering process. Looks like pistol style.
>
> Where can I find THAT tool and what it is called?
Variously known as a "cut and clench" tool or "cut and squeeze" pliers.
Prices for basic pressed steel versions are as low as ten pounds.
Take a look at Farnell's website, www.farnell.com, and look up catalogue
numbers 147-210 (low cost cut-and-squeeze) and 441-077 (form and crop,
pistol style -- a mere UKP55).
> Oh, don't a tool exists to unbend those bent over leads while melting
> solder with normal solder iron at same time?
My Weller soldering gun came with a tool with aluminium ends, one end
forked to grab component leads while the solder is molten. It wouldn't be
hard to make one (but don't make the whole body out of aluminium or you'll
burn your fingers!).
Farnell 145-462 is similar, but not (IMHO) as good as my Weller one.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
Anyone know how to contact the RICM. I need to tell them to change their
web links to the CCC. The webmaster email address bounces - mailbox full!
-- hbp
The only strippers I've ever found that worked
well on wire wrap were those ones that looked like
small pliers and had white plastic shells that would
guide the wire onto stripper blades. I'm not sure who
sells these as they were units I picked up at a surplus
store.
-----
Clauss NO-NIK
they show up on eBay from time to time, sometimes listed
as fibre optic strippers.
Under the "It never hurts to ask" heading:
Anybody want to trade a >>>working<<< commodore SX-64
for the working commodore 64+working 1541+ I'll even throw in the
$19.00 from kmart TV I bought for it?
Last summer, I was at a big ham radio swapmeet in Flagstaff, AZ. There
were two of these printers floating around, which, due to size, got
dumpstered because nobody would take them... we didn't have room even for
one.. and they aren't all that rare anyway.
I saved the ribbons out of them, two that were mounted and one (still
in it's plastic bag) that was spare in one of the machines.
Then I put them in one of the boxed of jun^H^H^H Stuff that I brought
back and promptly forgot about them, until the discussion currently
running reminded me. SO:
Free to someone who *needs* them, you pay USPS priority mail shipping.
Two have been used and might probably need re-inking, one is NOS.
E-mail me OFF LIST please... first come - first served, and hopefully
these should go to someone who is actively using (or restoring for use)
one of these printers and can't find ribbons for it.
Cheers and Merry Newtonsmas
Santa
On Friday, December 6, 2002, John A. Dundas III wrote:
>> Printronix P6000 ~400lpm line printer (biiig data center cabinet .. dot
>> matrix, circa-1985)
>
> I could be wrong, but I think that's a P600. The 600 lpm version of the
> P300 (otherwise identical). I broke my back (literally) on one of these.
My local university surplus in Oklahoma has a P300 on sale for $20. It's in
decent but dusty condition, and one of the casters is borken. I'd buy it,
but I'm (still) short on cash, and I already have a big drum printer that
beats the P300 in cool factor. (It's not made by 'Data Products Corp.' but
instead by 'Data Printer Corp.').
They also have two NeXT laser printers, but they're priced at $50 each. I
think that's a little too high.
--
Jeffrey Sharp
Also note that while at the Montagar site you ask for two different requests
>from a pulldown menu - VMS and Layered products. The Montagar people also
told me that the hobbyist CD issue with 7.3-1 is coming soon. Currently the
web site says they are out of VAX 7.2 CDs, thus my original post. Also note
that a few third party vendors have joined the program, and you can get
hobbyist licenses from them also. Even though it says DECUS number on the
hobbyist PAK site, you can also use your Encompass US Associate number. Note
that Encompass is the HP user group, and that Associate membership is free.
There is a slightly confusing point - Encompass associate membership does not
get you restricted Encompass web site access, so you will NOT be e-mailed a
password, just your Encompass number. So once you have that, proceed to the
Montagar site.
The Montagar process is efficient; your PAKs are emailed within 15 minutes.
The VMS fans on this list should see, for example,
http://www.process.com/openvms/index.html
Process Software has a hobbyist license for some of their products. They
bought up MuiltiNet from TGV. I always though TGV was one of the better
TCP/IP's for VMS. For today's trivia, TGV was an acronym for Two Guys and a
VAX.
Thanks to some help from list member Antonio Carlini, I am now up with VMS
and Multinet, NFS, C and a few other items on a VAXstation 4000-90.
"Jeffrey H. Ingber" <jingber(a)ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> I've been looking at these controllers on and off for awhile. What
> advantages do these have over a Central Point Option Board?
They're documented (at least, Jens was willing to send me a copy of
the programming info when I asked), they're supported by open-source
software, and you can buy new ones without having to wait for one to
turn up on eBay or sifting through a vast pile of PC junk looking for
one.
-Frank McConnell
Unsollicited Commercial E-mail.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sellam Ismail [mailto:foo@siconic.com]
> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 9:47 AM
> To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
> Subject: Re: AN/ UYK-20X(V)
>
>
> On Sat, 7 Dec 2002, shirin wrote:
>
> > I have 9 brand new AN/ UYK-20X(V) in stock. Any one interested?
> > Original package plus all accessories.
> > Regards,
> > Shirin
> > Tel: 604- 5522598
>
> What the heck is this?
>
> Sellam Ismail Vintage
> Computer Festival
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> ----------------
> International Man of Intrigue and Danger
> http://www.vintage.org
>
> * Old computing resources for business and academia at
www.VintageTech.com *
> > I think you want _TRS-80 Disk and Other Mysteries_. That was one of
> > the Mysteries books I didn't have, but ISTR that Al turned up a copy
> > recently.
On Fri, 6 Dec 2002, Tim Mann wrote:
> No, that only covers Model I TRSDOS 2.x and NEWDOS 2.1. Sellam asked
> about TRSDOS 1.3, which I have to assume means Model III TRSDOS.
Fred Cisin wrote:
> True.
> But before we deal with the parameters (MOSTLY minor) that differ, he
> needs a tutorial on how the directory structure works for that family
> of operating systems. Pennington's book provides a good one, unless
> and until one of us has an opportunity to sit down with him and go
> through the details.
Granted, Pennington's book is a good place to start, even though it
doesn't cover the differences in Model III TRSDOS. It doesn't help
Sellam much, though, if he doesn't have a copy.
In my other reply, I gave a pointer to the on-line Programmer's Guide to
TRSDOS/LS-DOS Version 6. Here it is again:
http://www.tim-mann.org/trs80/doc/prgguide.pdf Although the Guide is
denser and not nearly as fun to read as Pennington's book, it contains
the same information (and more) and has the advantage of already being
on-line. It also has the same drawback, namely that it doesn't cover
the differences in Model III TRSDOS.
> For example, for READING files, he doesn't need to know all of the
> details of the H.I.T., but I'm sure that he would appreciate learning
> it ANYWAY, and he will need it sometime in the future when he wants
> to WRITE files.
Does Model III TRSDOS compute the HIT codes the same way as the other
TRSDOS-like systems? I don't recall. Since Radio Shack randomly
changed so many other things (sectors starting at 1 instead of 0, not
having directory entries for the system files, swapping the DAMs,
changing directory entries from 32 to 48 bytes, various smaller
details), it wouldn't be surprising.
--
Tim Mann tim(a)tim-mann.org http://www.tim-mann.org/
Finally (and I mean it, been trying to get to this one for over a year)
dug into an H-88 (H-89? WTD?) that had seen better days (but had this real
nice engraved metal name plate reading "HAL") <G>, and where one might
expect to find the cassette interface board, I instead found a board with
an AY-3-8910 sound generator and MSM5832NS clock chip along with some
other bits.
Kinda neat. Etched on the board is the legend:
Albrektson
Sound/Clock H-89
Now, while these chips are familiar enough... Has anyone else run across
this board and/or have any software for it? Be curious to see what kind
of fun can be had after I get some signs of life out of the machine again.
THanks;
-jim
---
jimw(a)agora.rdrop.com
The Computer Garage - http://www.rdrop.com/~jimw
> The way I had thunk it, it would need to be both unique and
> reversable.
Nope, don't need to. When you add an email address to the database,
calculate the MD5 hash and store that with it. Make sure you've got
indices on the table for both the hash and the address. When some
user uses the form you get the hash back as an argument, form field,
whatever. Look it up in the table and you get the cleartext address.
Remember the goal is to never put the sensitive data - in this case
the email address - where someone browsing the website can get it.
> It's not. I have jack-asses posting spam to my VCF BBS and
> through my feedback form occasionally.
Good point, Sellam. So make the send/confirmation step include the
bit where the sender has to input some value from a graphic. Seems
like enough to exclude the scripts, provided you're careful about
the filenames of images, etc. Remember, you can have another
database table that relates the gibberish name of these graphics to
the text the sender is suppose to enter.
This is starting to sound like a fun little project...
--S.
Hello all,
I just changed jobs, and the new place has a *TOTAL* lockdown on web
browsing, even for the engineers, so I have not been keeping track of the
list.
I was catching up tonight from home, and saw Adrian's note about me and the
MPF-1. I indeed have one, with manuals, and would be happy to make copies
for whoever needs them. Please email me off-list, and we can set it up.
One small caveat: I have a metric crapload of things going on, so it may be
a few *weeks* before I can get to it. If you can wait, I can make copies...
:-)
Rich B.
_________________________________________________________________
The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
At 11:25 4-12-2002 -0800, you wrote:
>I'm trying to pull some old word processor and perhaps spreadsheet files
>off some TRSDOS disks using a PC. I already found a utility called
>READDISK that reads TRS-80 disks on a PC and it worked great. Now I need
>to extract the files from the image.
Wouldn't it be easier to install a trs-80 emulator, mount the readdisk
image in it, and print the files to a virtual printer port that you capture
to a pc file?
Kees.
Eric, I saw your post about the chips on ebay, and your right... the seller
(me) didn't know you could get a working cpu board for $25. The only prices
I could find on these chips online were from retailers and they listed them
much higher. So I took a chance at $55. I value your opinion and that of
others on the forum. Thank you for setting me straight. Do you know of a
source that might help me with pricing? I have thousands of Dec and Vax
boards and lots of other stuff that I would like to sell, but fair pricing
is tough. I have been told by other buyers that my prices for items sold to
them has been great. For instance, I sold a complete working Decmate III on
ebay for $49.00, a vr201 for $25, DSD440 dual floppy drives at $185,
complete working pdp8/e with 32k memory, rk05 drive, 4 disk packs, monitor
and keyboard for $800., 10 pack of new 8" floppies for $15, a tested power
supply for a vax 4000 for $25... I try to find as many sources for prices
online as I can then set my asking price below the lowest price I can find.
I will take back anything I sell that dosen't work and I do my best to test
any item before it goes out the door.
Eric, please don't think I'm slamming your post! I am apologizing to you and
those on the forum for missing the boat on pricing these chips. My
intentions are honorable and I welcome all suggestions from other
subscribers. All are welcome to visit our warehouse in Florida and make
offers on anything they see. I have had visits from other cctalk members and
they very pleased with their purchases. You can see a partial list of what
we've inventoried so far at www.tarinc.com
Thank you all for taking the time to read this. Personal emails can be sent
to trestivo(a)tarinc.com
Sincerely,
thom
Hello all,
I recently acquired a Panasonic HHC (the "1400", aka
4K version). However, it didn't include the user
manual. Does anyone have a scanned manual, or can
anyone photocopy and mail one to me? I'll pay the
postage, of course.
-- Evan Koblentz, Boston, Mass.
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.com
working it.... :)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: freddy [mailto:nrg@sun.com]
> Sent: Thursday, December 05, 2002 6:48 PM
> To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
> Subject: Re: OpenVMS VAX hobbysit CD
>
>
> Eric Dittman (dittman(a)dittman.net) wrote :
>
> > > Does anyone have one or know an FTP site?
> > > If one can get real DEC VMS CD's will the hobbyist
> license PAKs work or do
> > > you need the hobbyist CD?
> >
> > You can use DEC/Compaq/HP CDs with the Hobbyist licenses.
>
> can anyone make these for me to download? :(
>
> cheers,
> --
> freddy
>
Today i've added a YARC Systems transputer board to my little IBM-AT coprocessor card collection :-)
Unfortunately, there was no documentation and software included ...
... and YARC Systems seems to be out of business for at least 2 years ...
Does anyone have documentation/software for that little beauty ?
Thanks Bernd
It appears to be the interface for the Tennecomp tape backup system...
Cheers...
Gerald Raine
IBM Global Services
Tel: (206) 674-6688
Fax: (206) 272-8501
Pager: (206) 918-5850
Cellular Phone: (206) 854-7537
"Bill Sudbrink" <wh.sudbrink(a)verizon.net> wrote:
> In high school, we used what I think was called _The_FORTRAN_Coloring_Book_
> (wasn't that what it was called Frank?). That's not the same thing is it?
No, that's a different book from _FORTRAN For Humans_.
Funny, I only remember boring data processing text books, like the one
that told us how to use a keypunch and how to interpret punched cards,
an important skill when I got to U of Maryland and found that the 029
keypunches in the basement of the CS building often did not have fresh
ribbons. (Bill and I attended the same high school, where there was
an HP 3000 Series II (upgraded to a Series III in 1980 I think) for
administrative and academic use.)
But then I might not have paid a FORTRAN text much attention, having
picked that up when we were supposed to be learning BASIC and being
more interested at that time in SPL/3000.
-Frank McConnell
>>John Dundas wrote:
>
>> Anyone have the jumper settings for a 4MB MSV11-QC (M7551-CF) memory
>> board for a PDP-11? I just got one, but don't know how the DIP
>> switches and jumpers should be set. A PDF of the User Guide would be
>> even better, but help or pointers with the jumpers/switches would be
>> great.
>
>Jerome Fine replies:
>
>In general, there should never be a reason to alter the
>jumpers. Since 4 MBytes is the maximum allowed for
>the PDP-11, the hardware would almost always be set
>to use all of the memory. There is probably a bank of
>jumpers for the starting address and a second for the
>ending address. The starting address will probably be
>empty - for zero. The ending address could be full or
>empty. I suggest that if you can't find a manual for the
>settings to just use the board as is. 99.9% of the time,
>I would expect the setting to reflect use of all of the
>memory - if that is what you wish - and I can't really
>understand any other option for 99.9% of the cases.
Based on the MicroNotes, I believe you are correct that the switches are
used to control the starting and ending addresses. The board, as
received, is set to all zero for both. The MicroNote _seems_ to
indicate that the ending address should be set to all 1s. However I'm
wondering if I really need to set the ending address to 4MB - 8KB (for
the I/O page)?
Also, there are quite a few jumpers on the board. They may or may not
be set appropriately. The MicroNote indicates the function of a few of
them, but not nearly all. For example, permit "write wrong parity",
etc.
If anyone has a copy or scan of the original manual, I'd very much
appreciate it.
Thanks,
John
> That's the point that spammers would attack, if they could be
> bothered to try.
I'm sortof wondering what archive sites like the Wayback Machine
are doing to prevent address harvesting, if anything. Seems like
exactly the sort of thing that would be worth some effort prying
open...
> Make damn sure that whatever CGI script you use defends against
> any characters in the email form being interpreted as any sort
> of metacharacters.
Can't stress this point enough. Limiting length is good too, look
to RFCs for figures.
I'd also submit any message via a TCP connection rather than
invoking anything from the script, e.g. `sendmail -bs`. I can
give you a simple example using Perl if you need it.
Hmm, do I have any links/guides for safe web form handling... ?
--S.
Did anyone here learn Fortran from, or just read, any book called "Fortran
for Humans" or "Fortran 77 for Humans"?
I just found out: The CS prof I've been spending so much time with for the
last two years, Rex Page, was the principal author of this book. If anyone
has memories of it (good or bad :-), I bet he would get a kick out of
hearing about it at our next meeting.
--
Jeffrey Sharp
Current idea on spamproofing the archives:
[0] Every email address in the archives is replaced with a shortened form.
For instance:
user(a)domain.com -> user@d...
[1] The shortened address is link to a CGI script like this:
http://www.subatomix.com/cgi-bin/email?asf3uhh0239q0bs
The script generates a page that asks the user to type in a specific
string to prove they're human. The query string above is the email
address with some some simple sort of encryption.
[2] The user types in the string and presses Submit, and it runs the CGI
again, but with the typed string as part of the query string:
http://www.subatomix.com/cgi-bin/email?asf3uhh0239q0bs,abbabdedf
Now the script generates a page with the real email address as a mailto
hyperlink. The user may bookmark this page if he/she wishes.
Surely this is enough to defeat address harvesters. Does anyone see any
problems with this?
--
Jeffrey Sharp
Jim,
The M868 Dectape controller arrived today, and has already surpassed the
usability of the other one I have - it doesn't keep the machine from
running! Now I can get to the business of getting the TU-56 completely
operational. Thanks!
--
Christopher L McNabb
Operating Systems Analyst Email: cmcnabb(a)4mcnabb.net
Virginia Tech ICBM: 37.1356N 80.4272N
GMRS: WPSR255 ARS: N2UX Grid Sq: EM97SD
Anyone have the jumper settings for a 4MB MSV11-QC (M7551-CF) memory
board for a PDP-11? I just got one, but don't know how the DIP
switches and jumpers should be set. A PDF of the User Guide would be
even better, but help or pointers with the jumpers/switches would be
great.
Thanks,
John
How do I get disk images for my C64 from the internet?
Following equipment available:
Apple ibook
usb-> serial port
usb 3 1/4 diskette drive
commodore 64
1541 disk drive
Is there a community of people sharing disks? Preferably physical
disks, perhaps via post (snailmail)?
Company that sells old commodore software?
Thanks...
ron.
>From: "Jeffrey H. Ingber" <jingber(a)ix.netcom.com>
>
>On Fri, 2002-12-06 at 18:31, Dwight K. Elvey wrote:
>> Hi Jeff
>> This is a manual tool and takes a little practice.
>> You need to first start by stripping about .75 to 1 inch of
>> insulation from the end of the wire. There is a built
>
>Thanks to everyone who provided links. After a few tries I've got it
>figured out =).
>
>I ordered a roll of wire which has a built-in stripper which makes nice
>1" cuts. Pretty easy process, but I find the slit in the tool to be
>annoying, as the wire would continually get caught in it. What is the
>purpose of this? I assume it's to allow you to remove broken wire from
>the tool easily? I just kept a finger over the slit and eventually was
>able to get some good wraps.
>
>If I had to do this more often I would probably spring for a better
>tool, but for a once (or twice-off) this seems to do the job.
>
>Thanks!
>Jeff
Hi
Like any skill, it takes practice. You want to feed the
free end of the wire through the side that doesn't have
the stripper on it. You then push the wire into the
groove with a finger nail. If done correctly, you won't
have a bend in the wire at the stripper and the wire
will not break when you strip it.
You'll find that the spool/stripper unit have the same
problem. The only strippers I've ever found that worked
well on wire wrap were those ones that looked like
small pliers and had white plastic shells that would
guide the wire onto stripper blades. I'm not sure who
sells these as they were units I picked up at a surplus
store.
As for power wrappers. These require some skill to use
as well. With these, one can make a larger mess quicker
than using a manual tool. It is all about practice and
timing. I've used professional electric and air powered
wrapping tools. I also have one of those cheap battery
powered ones at home. With a little practice, I find
that I can do just as good a job with any of them.
I've done larger projects. One needs to plan out the
flow of how you are going to place the wires. Two level
wire wrapping takes planning. Three level is a little
more forgiving but it is easy to bend the pins and cause
shorts.
Dwight
>
>
>> in stripper. Look at the spring steel part in the center
>> of the tool. It has a slit in it that you slide the
>> wire in and then pull the wire from the other side.
>> Now that you have the end, thread the wire from the
>> end, under the small sleeve and along the groove at the
>> side of the shaft. It doesn't have to stay in the groove
>> but make sure it doesn't get kinked or bent badly.
>> Slide the tool and wire over a wire wrap post. Place
>> your index finger at the unwrapper end and twizzle the
>> tool clockwise. This is the tricky part. You need to
>> put enough pressure with your index finger so that
>> there are no opening between wraps but not too much
>> or you'll get overlapped wraps. I also find that the
>> first turn of the tool should have no pressure until
>> the wire has one start wrap. You will also find
>> that you won't be able to twizzle it to completion
>> as one motion. You need to make sure that it doesn't
>> back rotate as you go for another grab with your
>> fingers ( this is where another hand comes in handy ).
>> If you get an opening between wraps, don't think you
>> can just squeeze it down to until it looks OK. This
>> make a loose wrap that will have poor electrical connection.
>> Overlapped wraps should be redone as well.
>> Now, go and practice. You'll get the hang of it soon
>> enough.
>> Dwight
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Does anyone know what system these are for? I've never heard of one before. I had a MD-2 and it used 5 1/4" drives. This is in a biege case about 8" tall x 6" wide x 20" deep. It has ribbon cable header (50 pin?) on the back along with an AC socket and power switch, the drive appears to be a FH Shugart.
Joe
Hi
I forgot to mention. Use a good sharp pair of wire
cutters. If you use some of the cheaper diagonals,
they flatten the wire, rather then cutting it.
This makes the job of stripping much harder since
the covering doesn't slide off easily.
Just more of wire wrap lore.
Dwight
>From: "Dwight K. Elvey" <dwightk.elvey(a)amd.com>
>
>>From: "Jeffrey H. Ingber" <jingber(a)ix.netcom.com>
>>
>>On Fri, 2002-12-06 at 18:31, Dwight K. Elvey wrote:
>>> Hi Jeff
>>> This is a manual tool and takes a little practice.
>>> You need to first start by stripping about .75 to 1 inch of
>>> insulation from the end of the wire. There is a built
>>
>>Thanks to everyone who provided links. After a few tries I've got it
>>figured out =).
>>
>>I ordered a roll of wire which has a built-in stripper which makes nice
>>1" cuts. Pretty easy process, but I find the slit in the tool to be
>>annoying, as the wire would continually get caught in it. What is the
>>purpose of this? I assume it's to allow you to remove broken wire from
>>the tool easily? I just kept a finger over the slit and eventually was
>>able to get some good wraps.
>>
>>If I had to do this more often I would probably spring for a better
>>tool, but for a once (or twice-off) this seems to do the job.
>>
>>Thanks!
>>Jeff
>
>Hi
> Like any skill, it takes practice. You want to feed the
>free end of the wire through the side that doesn't have
>the stripper on it. You then push the wire into the
>groove with a finger nail. If done correctly, you won't
>have a bend in the wire at the stripper and the wire
>will not break when you strip it.
> You'll find that the spool/stripper unit have the same
>problem. The only strippers I've ever found that worked
>well on wire wrap were those ones that looked like
>small pliers and had white plastic shells that would
>guide the wire onto stripper blades. I'm not sure who
>sells these as they were units I picked up at a surplus
>store.
> As for power wrappers. These require some skill to use
>as well. With these, one can make a larger mess quicker
>than using a manual tool. It is all about practice and
>timing. I've used professional electric and air powered
>wrapping tools. I also have one of those cheap battery
>powered ones at home. With a little practice, I find
>that I can do just as good a job with any of them.
> I've done larger projects. One needs to plan out the
>flow of how you are going to place the wires. Two level
>wire wrapping takes planning. Three level is a little
>more forgiving but it is easy to bend the pins and cause
>shorts.
>Dwight
>
>
>>
>>
>>> in stripper. Look at the spring steel part in the center
>>> of the tool. It has a slit in it that you slide the
>>> wire in and then pull the wire from the other side.
>>> Now that you have the end, thread the wire from the
>>> end, under the small sleeve and along the groove at the
>>> side of the shaft. It doesn't have to stay in the groove
>>> but make sure it doesn't get kinked or bent badly.
>>> Slide the tool and wire over a wire wrap post. Place
>>> your index finger at the unwrapper end and twizzle the
>>> tool clockwise. This is the tricky part. You need to
>>> put enough pressure with your index finger so that
>>> there are no opening between wraps but not too much
>>> or you'll get overlapped wraps. I also find that the
>>> first turn of the tool should have no pressure until
>>> the wire has one start wrap. You will also find
>>> that you won't be able to twizzle it to completion
>>> as one motion. You need to make sure that it doesn't
>>> back rotate as you go for another grab with your
>>> fingers ( this is where another hand comes in handy ).
>>> If you get an opening between wraps, don't think you
>>> can just squeeze it down to until it looks OK. This
>>> make a loose wrap that will have poor electrical connection.
>>> Overlapped wraps should be redone as well.
>>> Now, go and practice. You'll get the hang of it soon
>>> enough.
>>> Dwight
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>From: ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk
>
>> How can I take +6VDC of battery power and get +5VDC regulated power
>> from it? If it matters, the currents involved will be under 1000mA,
>> but probably over 200mA.
>
>Take a look at 'low dropout regulators'. National Semiconductor make
>(made?) them -- LM2940 series I think. They will work down to about 0.6V
>difference between input and output (so for a 5V regulator, you need at
>least 5.6V in). These are similar to the 7805 -- 3 terminals, and you
>need to put a couple of decoupling caps near the chip.
>
>That probably won't let you use all the capacity of your '6V' battery,
>but it should let you use some of it.
>
>Incidentally, I assuem the Zip drive produced 5V internally from this
>battery pack. Any ideas what it used?
>
>-tony
>
>
Hi
He didn't say what kind of batteries he was using
to provide 6V. Different batteries have different
discharge voltages. Even though a lead-acid battery
is fully discharged at 5V. Using it until 5.5V and
then recharging is a good idea for longer life.
Even if the regulator drops below 5V on the output,
most circuits will work down to 4.8V someplace
or lower. A low dropout regulator, as you suggest,
might still be the best option.
Dwight
>From: "Jeffrey H. Ingber" <jingber(a)ix.netcom.com>
>
>Not strictly classiccmp related, but applies to a repair I'm trying
>perform on a "classic" machine. I purchased a wire-wrap tool from
>DigiKey (PN# K104-ND) and a spool of the proper wire. Unfortunately,
>I've never done wire wrap, and it's not obvious how this tool is used.
>Does anyone have any good resources that explains wire wrapping?
>
>For reference, the tool looks like a scredriver, but has two hollow
>ends, one of which has a long slit running down the side.
>
>Thanks,
>Jeff
>
Hi Jeff
This is a manual tool and takes a little practice.
You need to first start by stripping about .75 to 1 inch of
insulation from the end of the wire. There is a built
in stripper. Look at the spring steel part in the center
of the tool. It has a slit in it that you slide the
wire in and then pull the wire from the other side.
Now that you have the end, thread the wire from the
end, under the small sleeve and along the groove at the
side of the shaft. It doesn't have to stay in the groove
but make sure it doesn't get kinked or bent badly.
Slide the tool and wire over a wire wrap post. Place
your index finger at the unwrapper end and twizzle the
tool clockwise. This is the tricky part. You need to
put enough pressure with your index finger so that
there are no opening between wraps but not too much
or you'll get overlapped wraps. I also find that the
first turn of the tool should have no pressure until
the wire has one start wrap. You will also find
that you won't be able to twizzle it to completion
as one motion. You need to make sure that it doesn't
back rotate as you go for another grab with your
fingers ( this is where another hand comes in handy ).
If you get an opening between wraps, don't think you
can just squeeze it down to until it looks OK. This
make a loose wrap that will have poor electrical connection.
Overlapped wraps should be redone as well.
Now, go and practice. You'll get the hang of it soon
enough.
Dwight
Not strictly classiccmp related, but applies to a repair I'm trying
perform on a "classic" machine. I purchased a wire-wrap tool from
DigiKey (PN# K104-ND) and a spool of the proper wire. Unfortunately,
I've never done wire wrap, and it's not obvious how this tool is used.
Does anyone have any good resources that explains wire wrapping?
For reference, the tool looks like a scredriver, but has two hollow
ends, one of which has a long slit running down the side.
Thanks,
Jeff
Do you have any experience using Standard Pneumatic electric wire wrap
tools? 6021 models with bits can sometimes be had on eBay in the $40 range,
which isn't a whole lot more than buying a new manual tool.
Would that be overkill for a small computer project, or would it be nice to
have?
>From: "Jim Kearney" <jim(a)jkearney.com>
>Reply-To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
>To: <cctalk(a)classiccmp.org>
>Subject: Re: Wire wrapping
>Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 18:06:33 -0500
>
> >From: "Jeffrey H. Ingber" <jingber(a)ix.netcom.com>
> > Does anyone have any good resources that explains wire wrapping?
>
>This web page has some nice, clear explanations and pictures:
>
>http://www.stdpneumatic.com/resource/tech_wire.html
>
>Jim
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On Dec 6, 22:40, Philip Pemberton wrote:
> Joe wrote:
> > This might be a good time to make a dump of the ROMs before one of
> > them bites the dust.
> I'm not even sure they are 2532s (they might be 2732s). They're TI
branded
> and carry the part numbers "ACE-A" and "ACE-B". I don't have an EPROM
> programmer either...
Besides, the image is on the web:
http://www.home-micros.freeserve.co.uk/JupiterAce/JupiterAce.html
near the bottom of the page.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
Hello folks,
recently (yesterday) I got a new (for me, of course) AS/400 box, and started
to play with it. Everything started okay, booted with no problems (after a
year unnoticed in the corner). Today a rebooted it (for whatever reason),
turned it on, re-connected the twinax console, but nothing appears. The
green cursor remains in the upper right corner (meaning that the AS/400 didn't
notice the console yet, afaik). Some hints, ideas, places to point me to?
Cheers,
--
freddy
Joe <rigdonj(a)cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> biege case about 8" tall x 6" wide x 20" deep. It has ribbon
> cable header (50 pin?) on the back along with an AC socket and
> power switch, the drive appears to be a FH Shugart.
It's just a drive in an external drive box w/power supply. Morrow
sold S-100 floppy disk controllers and external drives to go with
them.
-Frank McConnell
In a message dated 12/6/02 3:04:32 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rigdonj(a)cfl.rr.com writes:
>
>
> Does anyone know what system these are for? I've never heard of one
> before. I had a MD-2 and it used 5 1/4" drives. This is in a biege case
> about 8" tall x 6" wide x 20" deep. It has ribbon cable header (50 pin?) on
> the back along with an AC socket and power switch, the drive appears to be
> a FH Shugart.
>
>
It sounds like it is an external drive cabinet.
Morrow had external cabinets for single and dual 8" floppy and hard drives.
Used with their S100 systems that preceded your MD-2 series. I believe Morrow
got it's start with S100 systems.
Paxton
Astoria, OR
Anyone know what this is? The main unit looks about like a terminal with a builtin CRT and keyboard and has boards in the back that look simialr to STD bus cards (but I didn't look close). There are two other units, one has two 8" floppy drives in it and the other says that it's an expansion unit.
Joe
>I believe he meant 'unlimited users' not 'use'.
PAKs are limited in several ways (not all of which are
used in practice). One typical way was that each PAK would
grant a certain number of "units" for a given product. So
using the FORTRAN compiler on a relatively slow MicroVAX 3900
series box might require say 500 units, while using the
same compiler on a VAX 7000-860 might require
perhaps 10000 units (I'm making up the numbers ...).
Later on, some products switched to activity based licences.
In the above example 500 units allows you as many concurrent
FORTRAN compilations as your MicroVAX can stand. With activity
based licences, your FORTRAN compilation on a certain platform
might eat up 100 activity units so with a 500 activity licence
you could run 5 FORTRAN compiles simultaneously.
Then there were user-based licences ...
In short, it appears that the hobbyist licences are limited
only in time (they expire after a year) but will work without
restriction on both your MicroVAX I and your AlphaServer GS320
during that year.
Antonio
Eric Smith wrote:
> I think you want _TRS-80 Disk and Other Mysteries_. That was one of
> the Mysteries books I didn't have, but ISTR that Al turned up a copy
> recently.
No, that only covers Model I TRSDOS 2.x and NEWDOS 2.1. Sellam asked
about TRSDOS 1.3, which I have to assume means Model III TRSDOS.
> Each track had 10 sectors. They were allocated to files in groups of
> five, which were called granules or grans. There's a Granule
> Allocation Table (GAT) which I think was basically an allocation
> bitmap.
Model I TRSDOS (and single density disks on all TRSDOS-like DOSes that
support single density) uses this format.
--
Tim Mann tim(a)tim-mann.org http://www.tim-mann.org/
I have been trying for the last few days to reach Michael and all my emails
bounce back with fatal errors? Does anyone have a different email address
than these two; editor(a)classictechpub.com and Eletter(a)lyris.dudee.net
Thanks for any help.
> What sort of equipment is this? Old PCs or test gear?
I'll tell once I have it, but it's way cooler than PCs.
Cheers,
Lee.
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I'd agree that the current layout is good. Next, I'd go with the fancier
one, but both are _too pastel_. How 'bout some good, saturated colors?
-----Original Message-----
From: Zane H. Healy [mailto:healyzh@aracnet.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 5:19 PM
To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
Subject: Re: Web Site Question (was: OT: _spam_)
<snip>
Having looked at all three, I rather like the current, but think it would
look better without the busy graphic below the black CLASSICCMP line. Of
the other two, I prefer the 'retro' one, but would recommend white instead
of pale green.
<snip>
> Depends on the boards and whats on them.
These are eurocard sized boards with no gold plating.
I doubt there is any gold on any connectors either.
Lee.
________________________________________________________________________
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I don't know UK prices but they should be similar to the US. Scrap prices are
similar world over in the developed countries.
In the US, if it is bulky, without many circuit cards the value ranges from 5
cents per pound (motor breakage, must have copper content) (like power
supplies) to 16 cents per pound (Aluminum breakage - mixed Aluminum and other
metals) (like hard drives or computer gear with aluminum cabinets) it is sold
& bid price is calculated by weight.
Aluminum and heavy copper can raise values, especially if they are easy to
remove.
Heavy circuit cards (with relays or metal bracing) are 10 cents to 40 cents
per pound.
Poor circuit cards (Like recent PC stuff) 0 to 20 cents.
Medium circuit cards (DEC, DG & stuff from the 80s) $1.00 per pound
Good cards like (Intel multibus I - 70s, early 80s - lots of black chips,
gold chips, old silicon chips.) $1.50 - $2.00 per pound
Gold plated cards (like HP) $3.50 per pound & up (depends on age)
Cards have to be complete with edge connectors and all chips.
Gold chips alone are $8.00 to $20 per pound and sometimes more, especially
for old military.
Old gold pin backplanes are worth $20 to $50 and up
Good (25 pins in a 25 shell) clipped connectors $2.50 per pound.
This is what the scrap dealer is going to look as bidding figures. There are
deductions for problems related to the bulk of the lot (do you have to rent a
truck?)
Call a scrap dealer that is not going to bid on the lot and ask the prices
for Motor Breakage, Aluminum Breakage, Medium circuit cards and heavy circuit
cards. Also the price of Aluminum scrap, cleaned (this means all iron,
including screws, removed) Much of the value in electronic scrap is in the a
luminum and how easy it is to get out.
Someone else will have to convert to British Pounds.
Good luck and what is the stuff?
Paxton
Astoria, OR
Ps You can contact me directly if you want help trying to figure out the
scrap value of the lot. I am not going to bid on it. Do you have pictures?
>From: "Philip Pemberton" <philpem(a)dsl.pipex.com>
>
>Right - thanks for the suggestions Peter (and Dwight). I've printed off your
>suggestions and I'll have a look through them tomorrow. The RAMs are
>soldered in, though, so it'll be very difficult to swap them. Plus the holes
>and pads on the board are *extremely* tiny.
>Guess I was jumping to conclusions a bit... Just out of interest, has anyone
>got a spare pair of 2732s and an EPROM burner capable of burning them? Just
>in case it turns out the ROMs (TI branded - getting quite warm, same as the
>CPU) are frazzled, too. Earliest I'll be able to get my sticky mitts on an
>EPROM programmer and some 2732s will be around the 25th (think about it)...
>*sigh*
>
>Thanks.
>--
>Phil.
>philpem(a)dsl.pipex.com
>http://www.philpem.dsl.pipex.com/
>
Hi Phil
You didn't mention where you were? You might be right
next door to someone that can help.
Dwight
>
Phil,
> I don't suppose you have a copy of the Jupiter Ace
> schematics, do you?
http://www.home-micros.freeserve.co.uk/JupiterAce/JupiterAce.html
Lee.
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I have heard of people using an HP LX palmtop (the 100LX/200LX have a fuller
serial port implementation than does the 95LX) as a terminal for the type of
tasks you mention. The 200LX runs MS-DOS 5.0 on an i80186, so you should be
able to get a number of terminal emulation programs that will work on it.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ethan Dicks [mailto:erd_6502@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 1:10 PM
To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
Subject: Modern replica/implementation of a dumb terminal?
I was musing about the state of VT100s and other dumb terminals and
had a few ideas zing by...
<snip>
I have used my Palm Pilot as a portable terminal for reconfiguring
Cisco routers (VT100 app and a travel cable and the appropriate
RS-232 dongles). My boss at the time flipped when he saw me do it
(everybody else dragged a laptop into the server room). There are
just times when I'd like a laptop-sized-or-smaller ANSI terminal.
I can forego double-high/double-wide chars, inverse video and the
like for simplicity's sake (hardly ever used them in an app except
at the South Pole), but it should be complex enough to run a
screen editor (vi or emacs) and/or basic curses apps (Rogue/Larn/NetHack
and the like).
One place I thought BIOS replacement might be handy was in a sub-486
laptop.... just pull it out, plug it in and *voila*, it's a dumb
terminal weighing a few lbs. Yes, it's possible to drop an OS on
a floppy and add Kermit (I've already done that with a dual-720K-
floppy Zenith 8088 portabie). I'm thinking of a dedicated "instant-
on" experience.
I also have some "Net Stations" with a 5"x5" 486 motherboard stuffed
under a PC keyboard (with 4 30-pin SIMM sockets, IDE, serial, video,
and NE2000 network built-in). They don't run off batteries, but
neither do they have an intergral screen.
I've also tried to think of ways to adapt a Palm Pilot with a permanent
keyboard, but I'm not sure there's a way to do it with only one serial
port (terminals typically have at least two, even if one is dedicated
to servicing the keyboard and somewhat "invisible" to normal operation.
The final angle I've worked on is to recycle the main board in a
VT220 (being somewhat physically small), but I don't have schematics
and I don't know what signals go over the ribbon cable to the PSU/
Analog board under the CRT.
So has anyone else wrestled with how to cobble up a portable VT-100?
Anyone get any further?
-ethan
__________________________________________________
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Hi all,
I've just opened up my Jupiter Ace and I think the problem I'm having
with it is far more severe than a blown CPU. It looks like while I was
testing it this morning the PSU was accidentally powered up, the +12(unreg)
connection made contact with the barrel of the power jack (-ve) and the
PSU's -ve line made contact with one of the first five expansion bus pins on
the topside of the board.
The CPU was getting very hot - I've since swapped the original NEC D780C
(1982 datecode) with a Sharp LH0080 Z80-A-CPU IC. The replacement is also
getting hot (takes about a minute for either of them to hit 50deg C). Output
>from the 7805 is 5.04V steady according to my Fluke 25 DMM. Video is being
output and my TV can lock onto it, but the output is total garbage, no
difference if I remove the CPU and ROMs or have them installed. The garbage
is always the same, too, in case it matters. The replacement CPU is
known-good - it came out of a working Toshiba HX-10 MSX.
How should I proceed with this repair? I've got a Fluke 25 DMM and a Tek
466 storage scope at my disposal. Also, the schematics are almost
unreadable. I got them from home-micros.freeserve.co.uk. Anyone got a better
copy?
Thanks.
--
Phil.
philpem(a)dsl.pipex.com
http://www.philpem.dsl.pipex.com/
On Dec 5, 23:15, Philip Pemberton wrote:
> Right - thanks for the suggestions Peter (and Dwight). I've printed off
your
> suggestions and I'll have a look through them tomorrow.
Dwight's suggestion about checking power etc is the obvious first thing --
I should have mentioned that.
> Just out of interest, has anyone
> got a spare pair of 2732s and an EPROM burner capable of burning them?
Yes, to both.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
On Dec 5, 18:08, Philip Pemberton wrote:
> Hi all,
> I've just opened up my Jupiter Ace and I think the problem I'm having
> with it is far more severe than a blown CPU. It looks like while I was
> testing it this morning the PSU was accidentally powered up, the
+12(unreg)
> connection made contact with the barrel of the power jack (-ve) and the
> PSU's -ve line made contact with one of the first five expansion bus pins
on
> the topside of the board.
> The CPU was getting very hot - I've since swapped the original NEC
D780C
> (1982 datecode) with a Sharp LH0080 Z80-A-CPU IC. The replacement is also
> getting hot (takes about a minute for either of them to hit 50deg C).
Output
> from the 7805 is 5.04V steady according to my Fluke 25 DMM. Video is
being
> output and my TV can lock onto it, but the output is total garbage, no
> difference if I remove the CPU and ROMs or have them installed. The
garbage
> is always the same, too, in case it matters. The replacement CPU is
> known-good - it came out of a working Toshiba HX-10 MSX.
> How should I proceed with this repair? I've got a Fluke 25 DMM and a
Tek
> 466 storage scope at my disposal.
It would be worth looking to see if signals look consistent (ie outputs of
gates behave in the way you'd expect from what you see happening on the
inputs).
If you're thinking of replacing every chip at once, or one-by-one, I'd
advise against it. You won't be able to tell what's really wrong, and
random swapping might just destroy an otherwise perfectly good IC.
The 74LS166 is a serial-out shift register, and I expect that's what
generates the video stream. Since you say you always get a good consistent
picture, with characters (even if they're junk) or some cosistent pattern,
the shifter and video timing is working. That's probably where most of
your 393's are, too (they're dual 4-bit counters).
Am I right in thinking the character set is soft-loaded from the ROM? ie,
not in a character generator ROM? Then you wouldn't expect to get
recognisable characters unless the CPU can run, and the ROM is OK.
Try swapping the memory chips around. If that gives different (but
self-consistent) video, at least some of it is working. If it makes no
difference, either it's *all* fried or the buffers have gone west.
Other obvious things to check are the CPU clock and /M1 lines. The Z80
clock needs to be pulled high, your scope should be able to show if the
clock is a nice square wave that goes up to almost 5V (minimum acceptable
is about 4.5V, IIRC). The /M1 line goes low once for each instruction
fetch; it should be pulsing. The data and address lines should be pulsing.
If the CPU is free-running becasue it can't read instructons, it might be
executing NOPs or RSTs or just some random instruction, depending on
whether the data bus is stuck all-high, all-low, or at some random value.
One possible cause of CPU and SRAM getting hot is if the data bus which
they're trying to drive is stuck with an active signal. See if you can
isolate the bus, and if the CPU or video behaves differently.
I'm just giving general advice here, as I've not used an Ace in decades,
and have no idea what the circuit looks like :-)
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
At 04:16 PM 12/5/02 -0000, Lee wrote:
>
>I know we've been through this before but does anyone
>have a handle on the going rate for scrap PCBs in the
>UK?
>
>The reason - I've been made aware of a quantity of now
>obsolete microprocessor equipment but I'm bidding against
>the scrap man. Who knows, he may be charging for the
>removal but I'd hate to lose this to him.
>
Prices vary widely depending on how much gold is on the cards but prices seem to run from just about nothing to as much as $4/lb here in the US. Even at the high end, that's about $4 per average sized board which is pretty cheap for a usefull board IMO.
Joe
>To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
>
>Philip Pemberton wrote:
>> I don't suppose you've got any spare 2114 RAMs as well, have you? I think
>> the RAMs in my Ace may have died when I slipped with the PSU cable (oops).
>
>I have some 2114s if you have trouble finding a source.
>
>--
>John Honniball
>coredump(a)gifford.co.uk
>
>
Hi
Before he starts ramdomly replacing parts, maybe it would be a good
idea to trouble shoot it first.
Just a suggestion
Dwight
>From: "Philip Pemberton" <philpem(a)dsl.pipex.com>
>
>Hi all,
> I've just opened up my Jupiter Ace and I think the problem I'm having
>with it is far more severe than a blown CPU. It looks like while I was
>testing it this morning the PSU was accidentally powered up, the +12(unreg)
>connection made contact with the barrel of the power jack (-ve) and the
>PSU's -ve line made contact with one of the first five expansion bus pins on
>the topside of the board.
> The CPU was getting very hot - I've since swapped the original NEC D780C
>(1982 datecode) with a Sharp LH0080 Z80-A-CPU IC. The replacement is also
>getting hot (takes about a minute for either of them to hit 50deg C). Output
>from the 7805 is 5.04V steady according to my Fluke 25 DMM. Video is being
Hi
5.04 is an OK value. I wouldn't stick another Z80/780 in there until I
knew that there wasn't something else connecting a bad voltage to
the processor. You should first power up without the processor plugged
in and measure the voltages on all of the pins. Once you've confirmed
that there is no +12V or something where it shouldn't be, you can
then look for drive contention issues. With the processor removed,
find all of the CPU pins that control Writing and reading( I don't
have a Z80 pinout handy ). Use pullups to put these into their
off states ( no bus activity ).
Now check the voltages on the data and address lines. Most TTL
cause soft pullups to about 3.5V and any resistor pullup would
bring the lines to +5V. These pullups are usually on the order of
5K or larger so you should be able to pull the line down, noticably
with a 1K pull down. This will find most any of the issues with
some other part that is hard driving against the bus lines.
Once you are sure that there is nothing hard driving against
the CPU, you could then plug it back in and look for other
issues. Just plugging parts in at random would likely be a waste
of time and may even do additional damage.
Dwight
>output and my TV can lock onto it, but the output is total garbage, no
>difference if I remove the CPU and ROMs or have them installed. The garbage
>is always the same, too, in case it matters. The replacement CPU is
>known-good - it came out of a working Toshiba HX-10 MSX.
> How should I proceed with this repair? I've got a Fluke 25 DMM and a Tek
>466 storage scope at my disposal. Also, the schematics are almost
>unreadable. I got them from home-micros.freeserve.co.uk. Anyone got a better
>copy?
>
>Thanks.
>--
>Phil.
>philpem(a)dsl.pipex.com
>http://www.philpem.dsl.pipex.com/
>
>
>The reason - I've been made aware of a quantity of now
>obsolete microprocessor equipment but I'm bidding against
>the scrap man. Who knows, he may be charging for the
>removal but I'd hate to lose this to him.
How about ringing a couple up for "very rough quotes",
explaining that you have N wotsits, each weighing
M kg and see if you can get a ball-park range out of
them.
Alternatively, bid what it's worth to you - and if you
lose, ask afterwards what the winning bid was.
What sort of equipment is this? Old PCs or test gear?
Antonio
Hi, Phil.
On Dec 5, 19:46, Philip Pemberton wrote:
> Peter Turnbull wrote:
> > I have a spare D780C with a 1983 date code. Mail me off-list if you
> > want it.
> That would be great - how much would postage be?
Not much, it would go in a jiffy bag with sime AS foam.
> I don't suppose you've got any spare 2114 RAMs as well, have you? I think
> the RAMs in my Ace may have died when I slipped with the PSU cable
(oops).
I have a spare pair, maybe more. How many do you need?
But if you've killed it with low-voltage-that's-more-than-five volts,
chances are you've fried some TTL. The NMOS will survive moderate
overvoltage better than the TTL will, so you might have a bit of work on
your hands.
This might cost you a trip to the O2 shop ;-)
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
to all, anyone interested in a set of three chips for the pdp11 visit this
link...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2078019983
The chips are the 11/23 CPU ( 57-00000-01A1 ), the KEF11AA floating point
( 57-00001-01A1 ) and the Memory Management Unit ( 21-15542-01 ). These
chips are assumed good and are guaranteed not DOA. Replacements available
for any chip proven to be non-functional.
regards,
thom
At 04:16 PM 12/5/02 +0000, you wrote:
>I know we've been through this before but does anyone
>have a handle on the going rate for scrap PCBs in the
>UK?
Depends on the boards and whats on them. The old 486 I think type chips are
worth something like $35/lb (just chips, not boards), so boards get
complicated with socketed vs soldered, and gold vs plain chips.
I tried a google and HP website search for documentation on the 800/G30
G-Class server and could not find any. Does anyone else know were a PDF is?
I would like to learn more the server I got yesterday and get it up and
running. Thanks in advance for any help.
I know we've been through this before but does anyone
have a handle on the going rate for scrap PCBs in the
UK?
The reason - I've been made aware of a quantity of now
obsolete microprocessor equipment but I'm bidding against
the scrap man. Who knows, he may be charging for the
removal but I'd hate to lose this to him.
Cheers,
Lee.
________________________________________________________________________
This e-mail has been scanned for all viruses by Star Internet. The
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________________________________________________________________________
Hi,
well, I've seen some discussions back and forth around here about what things
cost "back in the day", with some wildly differing figures at times.
In St. Louis, we used to have a distributor named Ultra-Comp, who
was in the Earth City area in Maryland Heights (by the I-70/I-270
interchange).
So here's an Ultra-Comp price list of 1988 vintage:
http://dbz.icequake.net/share/doc/comphist/ultracomp_prices.pdf
Enjoy!
(BTW, my dad bought the "Ultra Turbo-10 640 system" from them.
Upgraded from a Leading Edge 256K 4.77mhz system, 1986 vintage.
In 1991, I tasted a 386-40 clone for the first time, and was forever
weaned from the 8086. Hehe.)
--
Ryan Underwood, <nemesis at icequake.net>, icq=10317253
I found two SGI "granite" monitors for $5 in a surplus place this morning. Does anyone know if these will work with the SGI Indigo? (XS-24 video card.) I tried them but I'm not getting any video and I'm not sure if these are both bad or if they're even supposed work with the Indigo. I checked the SGI and Indigo FAQs and can't find anything about exactly what systems the monitors are compatible with.
Joe
I just received a collection of 5 1/4" floppies from a retired
computer science teacher.
It consists of about three hundred C-64 software, and about five hundred PC
titles. It also included a copy of Windows 1.04, box, disks and manual.
Cheers
Charlie Fox
Charles E. Fox Video Production
793 Argyle Rd.
Windsor Ontario Canada N8Y 3J8
519-254-4991 foxvideo(a)wincom.net
Check out the "Camcorder Kindergarten"
at http://chasfoxvideo.com
> Does anyone have any documentation on the data structures of
> TRSDOS 1.3? Specifically, I'd like to know the catalog structure,
> as well as the scheme for storing files across multiple sectors.
I used to have that in my head, but it's fuzzed a bit over the years.
When I was working for the LDOS folks in 1981, I wrote a program to read
TRSDOS 1.3 diskettes and copy the files to LDOS diskettes. I don't know
of a place where the TRSDOS 1.3 on-disk structures are written down,
though you could try Wade Fincher's manual scans at
http://www2.asub.arknet.edu/wade/operate.htm and David Keil's at
http://discover-net.net/~dmkeil/trspdf.htm.
The general idea is similar to other TRS-80 operating systems. The
other systems are well documented (especially LDOS; see my web site),
but Model III TRSDOS is different in several ways. Here's a summary of
what I remember.
Tracks are numbered from 0. The disks are single-sided. Sectors are
numbered from 1 to 18. There are 256 bytes/sector. Tracks are divided
into allocation units called granules; there are 3 sectors/granule (6
granules/track).
You should find the directory on track 17 (decimal). All sectors on
tracks *other* than 17 are written with a deleted data address mark
(this is opposite from other TRS-80 operating systems, by the way).
On track 17, sector 1 has a bitmap to show which granules are allocated.
There is one byte per track. There might be a second bitmap to show
which granules are locked out as defective. Towards the end of the
sector is the disk name and date and the AUTO command (executed if you
boot the disk).
Sector 2 has a hash table that was used to help search the directory
without reading all of it. You can ignore it if you're just reading the
disk.
The remaining sectors are full of 48-byte directory entries, with the
last 16 bytes of each sector unused. The fields are similar to what's
described in the LDOS documentation
(http://www.tim-mann.org/trs80/doc/prgguide.pdf), but there are some
differences in pesky details, like a possible off-by-1 error in the
count of the number of sectors in the file. The other main difference
is that the Model III TRSDOS directory entries are 16 bytes longer, so
that you can have more extent pointers in the entry.
Hope this helps.
--
Tim Mann tim(a)tim-mann.org http://www.tim-mann.org/
>I don't suppose you have a copy of the Jupiter Ace schematics, do you?
Isn't there a set of schematics on the web? I was given a Jupiter Ace
pcb a while back and it came with a set of schematics. What I'm not certain
is whether this was a "real" Ace pcb (real in the sense of being a copy of
the original) or whether this was the result of a build-a-lookalike-from-scratch
project. Whichever the PCB is, the schematics match.
Antonio
>Hello, I'm new here, and I've got a problem with an
>old Laptop. I just purchased a Toshiba T5200 in a flea
>market, which can be seen here...
>
>http://web.ukonline.co.uk/zelandeth/computers/t5200-100/
>
>...and I bought it for $1! A total bargain,
>but...unsurprisingly, it's broken...kinda broken. I've
>opened it up to determine the cause of what's wrong
>with it, as it won't turn on. A little tinkering
>later, and, boom, the power supply of the Laptop fries
>itself up. Damage looks bad, and it stinks really
>bad...a poisonous sort of smell, so I've thrown the
>offending power supply to the garbage. Now I have a
>laptop...with no power supply. But, is it possible to
>buy a replacement power supply for this? Or, is it
>even possible to just hook it up to a regular PC's
>power supply?
I'm not familiar with this particular machine, but I used to have a similar
286 based machine. A noname tawianese brand, model HL3200 or some such.
Designed to look like the Toshiba 3100, but with EGA and an MFM HDD.
The main problem with replacing the power supply with one from a generic PC
is that the original supply probably had a high voltage output to drive the
plasma display. In my 286 machine it was 205V. If you use a power supply
that doesn't have the 205V line you'll be able use an external monitor, but
not the plasma display. Which would kind of defeat the purpose of getting
it running these days.
Your best bet would be find a power supply from another machine. One from
a 286 based T3200 might do, as may one another machine with a plasma
display if you can work out what goes where. It probably won't fit in
space where the original power supply was. Either way I'd retrieve the
original power supply from the garbage to work out what goes where.
I had mine many years ago. I found it in a dumpster with a cracked screen
and no drives. This was when back when a 286 with EGA was something
special, at least to a 13 year old with no money. I got it running on an
external monitor and dumped the broken plasma display. It lived out the
rest its days in a plastic case that once held an apple 2 clone, a naked
5.25" FDD and a 30MB MFM HDD at it's side. I completed Leisure Suit Larry
1, Duke Nukem 1, Catacombs 3D and others on this beast before upgrading to
a Wang 386-16 (a full size case with room for 2 70MB MFM HDDs with noisy
bearings!) and a flaky VGA monitor with serious screen burn. A good used
VGA monitor cost around AU$200 at the time so I has to settle for one
removed from an old memorex terminal, but I could finally play Wolf 3D.
Bzzzt. Wrong answer.
I worked at Sun in the OS group and the first release that had my code
in it was Solaris 2.4. I also have bugfixes in 2.3.
Solaris 1.x is the BSD-based stuff; Solaris 2.x is the SVR4-based stuff.
SunOS is the OS proper and Solaris is the entire environment. SunOS
4.x went with Solaris 1.x and SunOS 5.x went with Solaris 2.x.
alan
---Original Message---
From: cctech(a)classiccmp.org
To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 21:51:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Solaris 2.4
At 03:39 PM 12/4/02 -0600, you wrote:
> Does anyone have Solaris 2.4 CDs that they could sell or copy for me?
Please
> note that I am not looking to violate copyright law but I do need to
get
2.4
> and not some later or earlier version of Solaris.
The way I remember this, the first release that bore the "Solaris"
name when released was 2.5 . Before it was called SunOS, of which
the last release was 4.1.4 if I remember correctly. After Solaris 2.5,
the previous SunOS 4.x releases were renamed "Solaris 2.4". I think
that the list of releases that I played with at one point or another is
as
follows:
SunOS 4.1.1 Rev B
SunOS 4.1.4, aka Solaris 2.4 (or was it 4.1.3?)
Solaris 2.5
Solaris 2.6
Solaris 2.7
Solaris 8
--------------------------------------------------------------
Carlos E. Murillo-Sanchez carlos_murillo(a)nospammers.ieee.org
At 03:01 PM 12/4/02 -0500, you wrote:
>On Wed, 4 Dec 2002, Joe wrote:
>
>> I found two SGI "granite" monitors for $5 in a surplus place this
>> morning. Does anyone know if these will work with the SGI Indigo?
>> (XS-24 video card.) I tried them but I'm not getting any video and
>> I'm not sure if these are both bad or if they're even supposed work
>> with the Indigo. I checked the SGI and Indigo FAQs and can't find
>> anything about exactly what systems the monitors are compatible with.
>
>Yeah, those should work just fine on the Indigo.
>
>I assume your Indigo is known operational, and that you have a suitable
>cable. Do the monitors just not display a picture, or do they not even
>exit power-save?
I don't think it's even exiting power save. When I turn it on the power light comes on and there's a click from inside the monitor. After a few seconds the yellow power save light comes on and then I hear another click from inside the monitor. When I turn the Indigo on, it powers up and plays it's tune so I know that it's started but nothing changes on the monitor.
I disconnected the video cable at the monitor and looked for sync on pin 3 and found that there was no sync* unless I started the Indigo with no monitor connected. (The sync was 63.something kHz). If I then connected the video cable to the monitor both the yellow power save and green power lights started blinking.
*I don't think the lack of sync on pin 3 indicates a problem. This monitor is suppossed to Sync-on-Green. In fact, the lack of sync on 3 when I boot the computer with the monitor connected may well indicate that the computer recognizes that this monitor doesn't use a separate sync signal.
The computer is definitely working. After trying these monitors I plugged the video cable into my usual monitor and everything worked exactly as it's supposed to.
I was wondering, if I use a logic pulser and pulse the green input on the monitor will it generate random garbage on the screen? Any thoughts on that?
Joe
>
>ok
>r.
>
Is anyone interested in this? Reply to the original sender. See below
for info including URL pointer to pictures.
Reply-to: <reojeo(a)hotmail.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vintage Computer Festival" <vcf(a)siconic.com>
To: "Roy Ogren" <reojeo(a)hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 12:31 AM
Subject: Re: TI 990a13
> On Thu, 7 Nov 2002, Roy Ogren wrote:
>
> > I have a Texas Instruments model 990/10a (990a13 chassis) and three
> > manuals for such, all in very good shape from the 84/85 era. This unit
> > ran off two 3 1/2" floppies and was used to diagnose Cummins diesel
> > engines. I can send more info and pictures if interested. Would you be
> > interested in such an animal or know someone who would be?
---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 18:05:46 -0600
From: Roy Ogren <reojeo(a)hotmail.com>
To: Vintage Computer Festival <vcf(a)siconic.com>
Subject: Re: TI 990a13
Sorry it took so long to get back to you. I'm located 25 mi. south of
Chicago. This computer was bought around 1985 for around 38 thousand dollars
including software and support. It was used to evaluate Cummins diesel
engines by running through various sequences measuring the time and
pressures it monitored and compared these values with the database loaded.
the unit ran from two floppy's, I have to add the software was very buggy
and the support program from Cummins engine company did not help much. I
have included pictures you can access via
http://reo-solutions.com/gallery/ti-990a13 . If interested please contact
me.
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
* Old computing resources for business and academia at www.VintageTech.com *
I think I may have already posted this request but I am still searching
for this.
I need a data sheet for the AT&T T7525 codec. The document should be
dated between 1991-1994, but at this point I'll take any data sheet for
that chip.
If anyone has this, please e-mail me directly at <sellam(a)vintage.org>.
I need it by the end of the week.
There i$ a reward for thi$!!
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
* Old computing resources for business and academia at www.VintageTech.com *
On Nov 27, 0:02, Tony Duell wrote:
> > The coolest item there, for me, is his Jupiter Ace.
> I what sense is it 'based on the ZX81'? OK, both have Z80A processors,
> both used 2114 RAMs. But [ snippage ]
I didn't realise they were so different inside. I knew the Ace didn't use
the ULA but I thought the basic architecture was similar to the ZX80/ZX81
(apart from the screen memory, which I knew about). There was certainly a
rumour at the time that that was the case, but I dare say that was as much
due to the similar size and shape of case as anything else :-) Perhaps
"inspired by" is better than "based on".
I have the manuals for ZX80, ZX81, and the Jupiter ACE, and the service
manual for the ZX81, but the only one of those machines I possess is the
common-or-garden ZX81. Twice I've just missed getting a ZX80, and I've
seen a few, but I've only seen seen one ACE.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
Hey I just got a Commodore and a 1541 floppy drive
I know
load "$",8
loads a catalog of what's on the disk and
load "name",8
will load something from the floppy
and I assume
save "name",8
will save it
But how do I format the disk and prepare it for use?
Thanks for your help...
Ron.
Where are you??? Wicats are *COOL*!!
Will J
_________________________________________________________________
The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
Sellam,
I have the set of "inside the TRS-80 xxxx" books. I'm sure that the TRSDOS
1.3 is included.
I'll have a look.
I can scan anything that you need.
Doug Jackson
Director, Managed Security Services
Citadel Securix
+61 (0)2 6290 9011 (Ph)
+61 (0)2 6262 6152 (Fax)
+61 (0)414 986 878 (Mobile)
Web: <www.citadel.com.au>
Offices in Melbourne, Sydney, Canberra, Hong Kong, Boston
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sellam Ismail [mailto:foo@siconic.com]
> Sent: Thursday, December 05, 2002 6:25 AM
> To: Classic Computers Mailing List
> Subject: Need information on TRSDOS 1.3 internals
>
>
>
> Does anyone have any documentation on the data structures of
> TRSDOS 1.3?
> Specifically, I'd like to know the catalog structure, as well as the
> scheme for storing files across multiple sectors.
>
> I'm trying to pull some old word processor and perhaps
> spreadsheet files
> off some TRSDOS disks using a PC. I already found a utility called
> READDISK that reads TRS-80 disks on a PC and it worked great.
> Now I need
> to extract the files from the image.
>
> Is this data published in any of the TRS-80 DOS manuals?
>
> Sellam Ismail Vintage
> Computer Festival
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> ----------------
> International Man of Intrigue and Danger
> http://www.vintage.org
>
> * Old computing resources for business and academia at
www.VintageTech.com *
CAUTION - The information in this message may be of a privileged or confidential nature intended only for the use of the addressee or someone authorised to receive the addressee's e-mail. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this email in error please notify postmaster(a)citadel.com.au. Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual
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Feel free to visit the Citadel Securix website! Click below.
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> The way I remember this, the first release that bore the "Solaris"
> name when released was 2.5 . Before it was called SunOS, of which
> the last release was 4.1.4 if I remember correctly. After Solaris 2.5,
> the previous SunOS 4.x releases were renamed "Solaris 2.4". I think
> that the list of releases that I played with at one point or another is as
> follows:
I suspect you're wrong, I've got a couple CD's labeled Solaris 1.[something]
in my collection. I'm pretty sure I've seen 2.4 cd's before.
Zane
Eric Smith wrote:
>
>Anyhow, the big problem with reformatting them for use on other systems
>is that there is no known way to format them back into TU58 tapes if
>you ever need any. :-(
>
>And I could definitely use some TU58 tapes, but not if they've been
>formatted into something else.
>
I once got a "TU58i" Monitor-program in an EPROM that replaces the original
firmware of a TU58, and then should provide the ability to (re)format a TU58 or
DC100 cartridge in a normal TU58 drive. Anybody ever heard of this?
I still should have it somewhere around although I didn't use it myself, so I
have no practical experience of it. But if anyone is interested to experiment
with it, I would try to dig it out one of many boxes in my garage marked with:
"interesting things, sort out some day".
Frank
> The way I remember this, the first release that bore the "Solaris"
> name when released was 2.5 .
Nope. They did start with SunOS, the last of which being V4.1.4_U1. When
they moved to the Solaris name, SunOS got renamed to Solaris 1.1. The U1
release I have here is Solaris 1.1.2 for SPARC, which _is_ SunOS 4.1.4
with the U1 patch kit. I assume that Solaris 1.1.1 (which I also have,
somewhere) is either SunOS 4.1.3, 4.1.3_U1 or 4.1.4 without the U1 patch.
The first non-SunOS release I believe was V2.3. I have pretty much all
releases of Solaris here, and I seem to start with V2.3, and then up, all
the way to Solaris 8. That's when I stopped doing Sun, soo.. :)
I lost (read: already deleted) the original posting, so.. can whoever
started this thread contact me offlist; we'll get you V2.4 :)
Cheers,
Fred
I have a PDP11/83 looking for a good home.
Located in Idaho Falls, Idaho.
PDP-11/83
TSV05 tape drive (and lots of tapes)
TK50 tape drive
DHV11's
RD54
Corporate cabinet (Approx 4' x 4' x 2.5')
plus other stuff.
Too large/heavy to ship cheaply, much better to pick up
if you live close.
Hello, I'm new here, and I've got a problem with an
old Laptop. I just purchased a Toshiba T5200 in a flea
market, which can be seen here...
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/zelandeth/computers/t5200-100/
...and I bought it for $1! A total bargain,
but...unsurprisingly, it's broken...kinda broken. I've
opened it up to determine the cause of what's wrong
with it, as it won't turn on. A little tinkering
later, and, boom, the power supply of the Laptop fries
itself up. Damage looks bad, and it stinks really
bad...a poisonous sort of smell, so I've thrown the
offending power supply to the garbage. Now I have a
laptop...with no power supply. But, is it possible to
buy a replacement power supply for this? Or, is it
even possible to just hook it up to a regular PC's
power supply?
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
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Hi there,
I'm not a member of the list, I found it through a Google search, but I'm trying to find a home for a Xerox 860 IPS that I have. Its been in storage for the last few years in my garage, but as far as I know it works (although I haven't turned it on in a very long time). I have the model with the portrait style screen, and I also have a daisy wheel printer, the system disks, word processing software, and the user manuals. There's even a slew of 8" disks that would go with it as well. I'd rather give this to an enthusiast, rather than just throwing it away. Its really a cool system and I think deserves better than that. I live in Saint Paul, Minnesota, so keep that in mind. This thing is hideously expensive to ship anywhere; it'd have to be picked up.
Thanks,
Let me know if anyone would like this beastie. Also, because I'm not on the list you should respond to my home e-mail rather than to just the list; otherwise, I won't see your response.
-Pat Thielen-
_______________________________________________________________
Axolotyl Studios
Wildlife, Portrait and Fine Art Photography
www.axolotyl-studios.com
loki(a)visi.com
ICQ #10509612
_______________________________________________________________
"Now that's entertainment!"
-Vlad Tepes-
You could be correct, I have been recieving a ton of computer training
spam.
Rich
>Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 18:00:01 +0100
>From: "Fred N. van Kempen" <Fred.van.Kempen(a)microwalt.nl>
>To: <cctalk(a)classiccmp.org>
>Reply-To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
>Hi all,
>I have been checking some dates, and I'm quite sure that someone on
>this list isn't for real, but a spam-address-collector instead. If I
>post something on this list, I get spam pretty soon thereafter. And
>yes, I varied my sender address (a little), and it takes over that
>spelling.
"thinkpad caddy" yields some hits. Like this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2076264418
--John
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk-admin(a)classiccmp.org [mailto:cctalk-admin@classiccmp.org]On
Behalf Of Zane H. Healy
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 16:33
To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
Subject: Re: OT - Thinkpad 760CD
> You can get these drive carriers on eBay for $5 or $7. I also bought 5
3GB
> drives in carriers for $50 a while back. All new, still sealed in the
> antistatic envelope. A lot of ThinkPads use this same format.
Any recommendation on what to search for? I wouldn't mind trying to find a
second carrier as I'd like to be able to continue to use the drive I have.
Zane
I've got a IBM 760CD Thinkpad that I want to try and replace the HD with a
larger one that I have on hand. After looking over the laptop carefully,
and trying to find info on the IBM website I'm left with one important
question. How on earth do I replace a HD on this model?
Zane
--
| Zane H. Healy | UNIX Systems Administrator |
| healyzh(a)aracnet.com (primary) | OpenVMS Enthusiast |
| | Classic Computer Collector |
+----------------------------------+----------------------------+
| Empire of the Petal Throne and Traveller Role Playing, |
| PDP-10 Emulation and Zane's Computer Museum. |
| http://www.aracnet.com/~healyzh/ |
This is a classic Xerox Word Processing system from the early 1980s. It
should be saved. It sounds like it is a great setup and complete with the
full page monitor and printer.
It would make a great museum exhibit. We were scrapping these in 1990. There
are few around. I may have some of the boot software disks in my storage
although this system is complete with software and extras.
Paxton
Astoria, OR
Dave,
I sent a reply to you but I'm getting an error. You may need to send me another address.
Joe
<dmabry(a)mich.com>... Deferred: 452 Can't connect to mich.com - psmtp
451 4.4.1 reply: read error from mich.com.bignet.mail2.psmtp.com.
On Dec 3, 11:46, Dwight K. Elvey wrote:
> >I don't know what exactly they did, but I do know that several people
who
> >have working laservision players offered to lend one. It's just a
Philips
> >laservision player, as still used by video buffs, but with a SCSI
> >interface.
> >
> >Of course, you'd need software to make sense of the directory
structure,
so
> >perhaps the "emulation" part was something to run the Video Filing
System
> >developed for the BBC Micro, or some equivalent.
> If they had the player, why not use an original BBC Micro to
> read things?
I have no idea. Unless they needed something more sophisticated or
powerful to extract all the data (a collection of still images, video,
sounds, cartographic data, geophysical data, text, etc) along with the
indexing, in such a way as to preserve the data, its layout, and the
cross-referencing. Normal use wouldn't do that.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
> All I'm really interested in is getting the data (mostly ASM source)on the
> hard drive onto a PC. I also have boxes full (heaps!) of 8" floppies for
> this system that I'd like to get the data off and over to a PC
It would be helpful if you could identify the floppy interface in the
system. It's probably an IBX daughter card. They are probably 1024 byte
sectored MFM encoded, I assume for RMX ?
HD recovery, as people have said, is more difficult.
See below. Contact original sender.
Reply-to: <ggarber(a)tampabay.rr.com>
---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 19:31:05 -0500
From: Greg Garber <ggarber(a)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: old computer
Hi,
I found an old "Texas Instruments Home Computer 99/4A" in the attic of the
house I purchased two years ago. It seems to be in pretty good condition,
although I don't know if it works as I have not plugged it in. There is
one game in the box. Not sure if all the cords are there, but I know the
power cord is in the box. (Box is not in great shape). Anyway, if you tell
me it is junk, I'll trash it. I've had it for 2 years so I can wait for
you to respond.
thanks...greg garber
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
* Old computing resources for business and academia at www.VintageTech.com *
Does anyone have an address and some contacts at the computer museum
that NASA's Ames Research centre in California is putting together? There
was an article about it in the New Scientist Magazine.
Here's the reason: some time ago a museum allegedly building in
Colorado approached me about taking away some old machines I have... I
promised them, but nothing every came of it and the storage bills are
killing me now that I am retired.
I will give them away, but I do want to do it on a wholesale basis
rather than piece by piece. Here's what I have:
Dec PDP 11/34, two RK06 drives (was working when retired). Drives are,
of course, the big washing machine ones. 11/34 is in an "executive" rack.
Dec PDP ll/23, two RL02 drives, in usual tall rack. Broken pin in
ribbon cable to the mini-drives used for booting and diagnosis. RL02s were
working when retired.
Lots of manuals and some spare platters for the drives.
Quick and Timely (Seattle company) CP/M box, S100 bus. Working when
last used.
Matrox (Montreal company) CP/M box, with old analog-digital conversion
attachment, used for scientific experiment data gathering when retired.
No documentation, but some boot floppies for the above.
Commodore 8296. Beautiful looks. Last Commodore entry into the 8-bit
business computer field. With dual floppy drive. Some software.
A few miscellaneous Atari STs. monitors, floppy drives.
Since I am in Ottawa, California might be a long way to transport the
stuff but since some of it seems rare now and the Ames Research centre
seems intent on collecting stuff, they might be willing to pay for a truck
>from here.
I would appreciate advice.
ahoj
--
------
Jan George Frajkor _!_
221 Arlington Ave. --!--
Ottawa, Ontario |
Canada K1R 5S8 /^\
aa003(a)ncf.ca /^\ /^\
gfrajkor(a)ccs.carleton.ca
h: 613 563-4534 fax: 613 520-6690
The -IP model has a full qwerty keyboard and 20 character alphanumeric
14-segment display instead of just a keypad and 7-segment LED displays so I
assume the monitor code would be significantly different.
>From: "John R. Keys Jr." <jrkeys(a)concentric.net>
>Reply-To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
>To: <cctalk(a)classiccmp.org>
>Subject: Re: Microprofessr MPF-1 Manuals?
>Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 17:07:39 -0600
>
>I have a new in the box MPF-IP not sure if it's close to your IB? But in
>the box is a new User's manual (170+ pages) and a Monitor Program Source
>Listing manual that's 69 pages long. Just looked again and there is a
>101 page Experiment manual (software/hardware) in the box also.
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