I would really like to get old Windows and Turbo Prolog, but
I can not go there to pick them up. Is it impossible to send them to me?
Of course I will pay for shipping and every thing.
Thank you,
Yujin Nagasawa
Of course, Sam and others have taken to talking about the Mattel Aquarius
lately, but I've never seen a mention of the Radofin version, which other than
the lack of 'Mattel' logos and the change to the model number and label on the
bottom of the machine, is identical. Were many of them sold? Does anyone
else out there have one? About all I've been able to learn is that since
Radofin was the actual manufacturer of both versions, they continued to
produce it for an unknown length of time after Mattel dropped it from their
line. There's not even a mention of it on any of the Aquarius references on
the web.
Jeff jeffh(a)unix.aardvarkol.com
--
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Sent from an Amiga 3000..the computer for the creative mind!
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Collector of classic home computers:
Amiga 1000, Apple II+, Atari 800, 800XL, Mega-ST/2 and XE System,
Coleco ADAM, Commodore 128D, 16, Plus/4 and VIC-20, IBM 5155,
Kaypro 2X, Mattel Aquarius, Osborne Executive, Radofin Aquarius,
Sinclair ZX-81, TI-99/4A, Timex-Sinclair 1000, TRS-80 Color
Computer-3, Model 4, and Model 4P, plus Odyssey2, Atari Superpong
and 2600VCS game consoles.
> Does anyone know how to read/write TRS-80 Model I format diskettes with
> a PC?
>
> I have a CompatiCard II and a Copy II Option Board. I assume the Option
> Board is able to copy TRS-80 diskettes (I hope, just got it this weekend
> and haven't tried yet) but I need to actually write files. Sydex 22Disk
> appears to support only CP/M formats.
TRS-80 disks are single density, single sided, soft sector non-cpm unless
after market cpm is installed. The original disk controller was wd1771.
There is two form to trs-80 disks those from TRSDOS and those from
DiskBASIC. As far as I remember(18 years!) they were compatble with each
other. Their structure was very unlike CP/M and it used a FAT style of
directory.
Now to add to the pain, there were various mods that allowed for double
density and even two sided disk drives. If so the controller was wd1793
in the form of a piggy back card.
Knowing the controller used is important as some of the system out there
created disk formats that are completely unreadable by anything other than
a system with 1771/1793!
Allison
Howdy folks:
I am writing this to let you know... if you would like to be mailed a very
complete listing of TRS-80 hardware and software, just e-mail me with your
name and mailing address to coslor(a)bobcat.peru.edu. This listing costists
of 65 pages and will be sent via 1st Class mail ASAP. If you would like it
even quicker, please send $3 to the address below to cover MOST of the
shipping charges... you would then be 'prioritized'.
I collect all types of TRS-80 hardware and software, and specialize in
games in both original diska nd tape format, as well as converted for use
with modern PC emulators. I have a HUGE collection and would like to share
this with others. I like to think I have 'nearly' every commercially sold
game (and hundreds of others) written for the TRS-80 line of computers. I
also have most applications and DOSs ... all for the Model 1,3,4 as well
as a limited supply of CoCo hardware and software. I also collect for many
other classic systems, including but not limited to: MSX, Colour Genie,
Apple ][, Apple ][e, Apple ][c, Apple ][+, Commodore 64, C-16, Vic 20,
Plus 4, Atari series, Coleco, Sincalire Spectrum, P2000, and Vectrex
systems.
All I ask for most of the software is to be compensated for my expenses
(postage, media, etc.) and have very low prices on most of my hardware as
I have accumulated a large inventory over the years and need to clear my
shelves.
I am also looking for the following items in particular:
1) YOUR classic hardware and/or software. I am always buying and trading
for those item.
2) 80-Micro, TRS-80 Microcomputing News, Computer News 80, and 80-US
Journal magazines, etc.
3) Original manuals, instruction, and game boxes concerning the TRS-80
4) Atari 800 - Atari Artist cartridge. A800LX - RX8053.
Just please remember, I am always buying, selling, and trading for these
hard to find items... even for things not on the above list. If you're
looking for something or have some things to offer... PLEASE let me know.
I simply love the TRS-80 and other classic machines and would appreciate
any help you may be able to provide in expanding my collection. I most
gladly will help you out in adding to your own classic computer or game
machine collection.
Finally, I have ALL my original disk, tape, and cartridge software... for
all systems, converted to run on their respective PC emulators!
Send me your want lists, request for a catalog, or what you have to offer:
via e-mail, United States Postal Service, or give me a call... I look
forward to hearing from you.
Best Wishes,
CORD COSLOR
//*=====================================================================++
|| Cord G. Coslor P.O. Box 308 - 1300 3rd St. Apt "M1" -- Peru, NE ||
|| (402) 872- 3272 coslor(a)bobcat.peru.edu 68421-0308 ||
|| Classic computer software and hardware collector ||
|| Autograph collector ||
++=====================================================================*//
At 05:38 09/06/97 -0700, Greg Mast wrote:
>
> I apologize if this is a repeat question but I can't seem to find the
> previous post.
>
> What were the solutions to removing yellowing from the plastic cases? I
> bought a printer that looks terrible. Not sure what caused it so any
> suggestions helpful at this point.
>
> thanks,
>
> Greg
>
Hi Greg,
I don't know if this will help you in solving cleaning problems, but here is
my favourite:
FULCRON from AREXONS.
I do maintenance and cleaning of computer cases since 10 years (for both job
and passion), and i found it to clean jellow stains (caused by nicotine)
EVEN BETTER THAN TRIELINE (honestly I find it better than anything else for
any kind of dirt exept: paint and ink).
It seems to take away the outer layer of jellowing but is not smelling like
any petrol derived-solvent.
I don't know if you will be able to find it there (AREXONS it's a
multinational company, isn't it?), but here in Italy was introduced 3 years
ago and now you can find it in any detergent shop.
For ink and tape adhesive I use a ISOPROPILIC ALCOOL based product called
TERGITUTTO, but this time the company (Sutter) I'm shure it's Italian only,
so try to find a similar remedy in your town.
Bye
Riccardo Romagnoli.
Classic Computer Collector
Forli' - Italy
I recommend "3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover", which is inexpensive
and comes in a red and white quart-size can that will last you until
roughly the year 2020. Some hardware stores carry it, but it's most
reliably found at an auto paint supply store (check your local yellow
pages).
I once used this stuff to remove an entire vinyl top from a '68 Chevy,
so I can tell you it really does work, and does not appear to harm
either your skin or any kind of plastic. Doesn't smell very bad, and
isn't highly flammable.
In response to an earlier question, Cameo copper cleaner can be found in
most any grocery store or general goods store.
Kai
> ----------
> From: Sam Ismail[SMTP:dastar@crl.com]
> Reply To: classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu
> Sent: Monday, June 09, 1997 10:56 AM
> To: Discussion re-collecting of classic computers
> Subject: Re: Cleaning Plastic
>
> On Mon, 9 Jun 1997, Mr. Self Destruct wrote:
>
> > I've always just used those blue brillo pad thingys. They generally
> do
> > well at taking off a bunch of hard to remove stuff (tape spooge,
> stains,
> > etc.) Sometimes when I'm REALLY bored I take the keyboard apart
> (keycaps,
> > etc.) and scrub them up too. Real satisfying to see a 12 year old
> machine
> > look like new...
>
> Regarding "tape spooge" (what a great moniker, if not gross) this is
> the
> bane of my existence. I hate that shit. I went out and got some
> stuff
> called Goof Off from Home Depot which was supposed to do away with
> that
> stuff but it didn't work very well. I didn't try it on anything metal
>
> yet, but most of my problems are with people putting velcro with the
> sticky backs on plastic cases. I tried cleaning some plastic with
> tape
> spooge on it and it just melted the damn thing. Anyone have any
> ideas?
>
> Sam
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> ---------
> Computer Historian, Programmer, Musician, Philosopher, Athlete,
> Writer, Jackass
>
Yellowing may be irreversible. I've been thinking of removing all
electronics from a case, and soaking it in dilute bleach solution
overnight.
I did find a great method for removing permanent marker from textured
plastic. Cameo copper cleaner powder works great and doesn't harm the
texture.
For other stains, I use a Scotch Brite pad of the type that says it's
safe on fiberglass.
I'd sure like to find a good method for cleaning keyboards.
Kai
> ----------
> From: Greg Mast[SMTP:gmast@polymail.cpunix.calpoly.edu]
> Reply To: classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu
> Sent: Monday, June 09, 1997 12:10 AM
> To: Discussion re-collecting of classic computers
> Subject: Cleaning Plastic
>
> I apologize if this is a repeat question but I can't seem to find the
> previous post.
>
> What were the solutions to removing yellowing from the plastic cases?
> I
> bought a printer that looks terrible. Not sure what caused it so any
> suggestions helpful at this point.
>
> thanks,
>
> Greg
>
Does anyone know how to read/write TRS-80 Model I format diskettes with
a PC?
I have a CompatiCard II and a Copy II Option Board. I assume the Option
Board is able to copy TRS-80 diskettes (I hope, just got it this weekend
and haven't tried yet) but I need to actually write files. Sydex 22Disk
appears to support only CP/M formats.
Any ideas?
thanks
Kai
Hi,
The Apple /// I picked up last weekend has one annoying flaw, and that is
a *very* loud power supply, that seems to get louder the longer the
machine is powered up.
I think this thing becomes even louder than our 1950s-era Westinghouse
refrigerator. (OK, perhaps an exaggeration, but the sound seems to
carry farther.)
There is nothing obviously functionally wrong with the computer - it boots
up fine, there's no wavering or glitching in the display, nothing to say
that something might be wrong.
Except the buzzing.
It makes me nervous.
Is this noise normal, or is it a sign that something is about to go
kablooie? And if something's wrong, is there any way of knowing which
part is about to go?
It looks like the power supply should be easy to repair, but I don't know
what I'm doing with these things. I know it's been stated here that power
supplies should be checked before powering anything up, but I don't really
know how to do that, and sometimes I'm just too impatient to see my new
toys running.
Doug Spence
ds_spenc(a)alcor.concordia.ca