> From: Mattis Lind
> What meter do you have and recommend?
My capacitance meter is a Uyigao UA6013L, and I'm quite happy with it; it
seems pretty reasonable build-quality. A number of people on eBay are selling
them, IIRC.
My ESR meter is, alas, literall nameless - I looked on both the meter, and
the (single-sheet) documentation, and there's no name anywhere. (Yes, yes,
I know, I got what I paid for - which was not much! :-)
Noel
> From: Guy Sotomayor
> To that end, I've made new "paddle" board that take 2 60pin ribbon
> cables.
Guy, this is fantastic news! I have previously speculated about doing this,
but it's still on the 'someday' list.
> I'll let folks know how they turn out (ie do they actually work!).
They should. DEC made the same basic part, but using 3x40-pin cables: M9042
(half-length, knuckle-buster) and M9014 (full-length). Apparently the
characteristic impedance of N-pin flat cable is close enough to the BC11
cable that it works.
Speaking of M9014's, though, the board list describes them as "UNIBUS to 3
H854s", and also lists an M9015, described as "3 H854s to UNIBUS". Does
anyone know what the difference is between the two?
Unlike the QBUS, the UNIBUS shouldn't need two different kinds of board, since
the 'grant in' pin on one end of a UNIBUS cable is the same as the 'grant out'
pin on the other end (unlike the QBUS, where the pinout is designed to support
plugging in boards, so there are separate 'grant in' and 'grant out' pins). I
can't for the life of me think of anything about the UNIBUS that a straight
through-connect wouldn't handle - i.e. a pair of M9014's, on each end of the
cable set. Certainly, BC11 cables ends aren't marked 'in' and 'out'! ;-)
So does anyone know why the M9015 exists - what it different about it, etc,
etc? Or was someone at DEC just not thinking hard enough when they spec'd it?
> The downside is that they were somewhat expensive
Heh, they'll still be cheaper than actual BC11's! :-)
Noel
> From: Joshua Stetson
> Ideally I would like to find the following:
> ...
> The interface cable between the two drives: BC11A
> The terminator card M930
The former is going to be a pain. The latter are findable on eBay. If you
can't find one, drop me a line - I may have one I can spare.
> I know it's common to run these without the top cover on for
> calibration purposes. Any tips for that? Maybe a piece of plexiglas
> over the heads to avoid any potential dust or should I not worry too much?
Don't worry about it; BITD we used to run for short periods with the cover
off, to calibrate heads, etc. The air-flow through the pack and out the head
entrance hole will keep the heads clear. I wouldn't run them without the cover
all the time, but for short periods, it will be fine.
> From: Tony Duell
> The M930 and BC11 should be easy to find, they are actually the same as
> the bits used on PDP11 Unibus connections.
The second part is correct, but not the first: BC11 cables are now pretty
much unobtainium.
Noel
> From: Mattis Lind
> I don't have an capacitance / ESR meter so I cannot check it.
If you do a lot of work with analog components (and it sounds like you do),
it's probably worth getting capacitance and ESR meters, they can be obtained
(new) on eBay for not that much. I have one of each that I got that way;
their quality is pretty good, considering how little I paid for them (I
didn't think I'd be using them enough to make it worth paying out a lot for
really good ones). I haven't used the ESR meter much, but the capacitance
meter works quite well, and has been very helpful. Of course, it can't be
used in-circuit, but...
Alas, I can't (easily) help with the VT100 question! :-)
Noel
The LogiCalc manual is here:
http://bitsavers.org/pdf/softwareProductsInternational/
anyone have the LogiQuest III manual to go with it?
Here is an advertisement for the SPI application suite that includes
Logiquest III:
http://i.imgur.com/k0D3wRX.png
LogiQuest III was a relational database from circa 1982 and appears to have
been written in UCSD Pascal although it was later ported to the CP/M.
thanks.
on moldy paper and other items....
generally we will bag it and tag it to isolate it from everything
else... check part # or document name ( in the case of printed material)
against what already exists. if it exists then the moldy nasty stuff is
scrap. If it is something that warrants preservation but not found
elsewhere then we consider moving forward on preservation efforts.
Ed Sharpe archivist for SMECC _www.smecc.org_ (http://www.smecc.org)
In a message dated 1/21/2016 6:57:02 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
silent700 at gmail.com writes:
I'm tossing this out here as a conversation-starter more than a
request for help, although I may end up putting the knowledge to use.
Today I received a set of original HP paper tapes for the 2115a
machine. I don't know if they've been archived or not - there are
dozens of HP tapes on bitsavers and I'll have to make a P/N list and
compare them. The real problem is they're in horrible shape. Decades
of basement moisture and likely a few critters have turned them
blackened, moldy and stuck together.
So, what to do? How to get to the data without a bio-hazardous
payload along for the ride? My thoughts go toward sunlight and/or U/V
light (like a hair salon sanitizer,) rubber gloves and a mask,
isopropyl alcohol, careful picking apart of layers, etc. I'd think
one thing in our favor is that holes in paper are going to be easier
to read than ink on paper. So Part 1 is getting them into readable
condition, with part 2 being the actual reading.
Any experience out there?
-j
I'm tossing this out here as a conversation-starter more than a
request for help, although I may end up putting the knowledge to use.
Today I received a set of original HP paper tapes for the 2115a
machine. I don't know if they've been archived or not - there are
dozens of HP tapes on bitsavers and I'll have to make a P/N list and
compare them. The real problem is they're in horrible shape. Decades
of basement moisture and likely a few critters have turned them
blackened, moldy and stuck together.
So, what to do? How to get to the data without a bio-hazardous
payload along for the ride? My thoughts go toward sunlight and/or U/V
light (like a hair salon sanitizer,) rubber gloves and a mask,
isopropyl alcohol, careful picking apart of layers, etc. I'd think
one thing in our favor is that holes in paper are going to be easier
to read than ink on paper. So Part 1 is getting them into readable
condition, with part 2 being the actual reading.
Any experience out there?
-j
Hi Everyone,
Jay West was kind enough to point me to this list and I just wanted to
introduce myself before I start begging for help. :-)
I started out life coding on a CDC Cyber-170 and from there moved up
through the TRS-80 model I before finally taking the plunge and purchasing
a very early Apple ][+. After that, I moved up through the Apple //e and
finally landed in the 32-bit world with my Amiga 1000. I had an Amiga 2000
and then finally sold out and lived in the WinTel world until being
"rescued" by a PPC32 Mac Mini. From there it's been Mac mostly but I've
always loved older, less mainstream gear.
When I rediscovered OpenBSD and the fact that it has some of these
"distaff" architectures as full tier-1 citizens, I started playing around.
At this point I have that same MacMini (macppc), a Sun Blade 100 (sparc64),
an Alphastation 500/400 (alpha), an SGI O2 (mips64), an HP C3700 (hppa) and
a VAXstation 3100 (VAX). Everything except the VAX is running 5.9-current
on OpenBSD and doing surprisingly well.
I'm trying to bring the VAXstation back to life (picked it up on eBay for
less than $30 US) and I'm having a problem (here's where I start begging
for help).
The diagnostic LEDs on the back (thanks to
http://home.claranet.nl/users/pb0aia/vax/3100leds.html for helping me
decode them) finally settle at:
1000 1010
Which I'm reading as a failed self-test in the "MM" subsystem. I'm
assuming MM=Memory Management Unit. I have also noticed it never spins up
the hard drive (that's a working drive I personally installed so I know
it's good) or tries to access the floppy.
On the advice of some of the folks on the list, I stripped the machine down
to the bare board (man there was a lot of dust in there). I found (as I
expected to) that the CMOS battery had leaked but there wasn't a lot of
corrosion on the board near the connector and the solder pads in that area
looked particularly beefy so I don't think I have any board or trace damage
>from that.
When I powered the box up with everything removed, I got the same MM
subsystem failure error so I don't think it's the memory board. I'm still
waiting on my final cable to be able to get on the serial console so I
can't run TEST 50 yet but I'm hoping someone on here can point me in
another diagnostic direction.
Or, does a failed "MM" test mean the CPU or main board are done with and I
need to replace it?
Many thanks in advance for any help you can give me.
Thanks,
Bryan
8-A boards- i found more, or most, but no FP8
Quantity of LA34, 38, 50, 100, 120 printers and parts
Quantity of DECMATE, Rainbow, and PRO units and parts
H7883 ps
H7894-MA ps
30-43120-01 ps
30-44712-01 ps
DEC PC WXE-A2 (2)
DEC PC443 DXLP
CELEBRIS 560 830WW
VENTURIS 466 854WW (2, one is very rough)
VENTURIS 575 821WW
VS42S-JC
VT1200 VX10A-AA
HP 82901M flexible disc drive
Shipping from 61853. Feel free to contact me off list with any questions
and offers.
Paul
I know some folks sent an email to me indicating their desire for a UA11
board but others may have waited until they arrived. The boards arrived
this week (I'm just getting to it because I was out of town on
business). They actually got here a week a head of schedule (yea!).
The price will be $99/ea + shipping. To make it easy, I'll be using
USPS priority with flat rate boxes, so within the USA I'll be charging
$15 for packing and shipping, so the total will be $114 (for folks that
want more than one board I can probably fit 2-4 boards in the flat rate
box so I'll only charge shipping once). I will also be including 1 copy
of printed documentation with each order (if you purchase multiple
boards in a single order, you'll only get one copy).
I accept paypal to ggs at shiresoft.com. If you don't want to use paypal,
email me directly and we can figure something out. In any case, please
email me to indicate the number of boards that you'd like and where you
want them shipped.
The folks who have emailed me previously will have priority.
TTFN - Guy