One of my HP 2113B CPU's doesn't boot the right way, after switching it on
all lights are on except the over flow light which stays out.
I know it should be an memory error, but removing all the memory boards and
starting with a known good memory controller and memory board gives the same
result. Because the PSU has the power fail option and I removed the
batteries and placed the plug at the battery in connector, I now suspect the
PSU.
The voltages checked out ok, except the 5M and 12M voltages come up a few
seconds (5 to 10 seconds) later than the rest of the voltages. I'm afraid
the time interval is too long but I'm not sure.
Is there anyone who knows what the interval should be ?
Or has any clou why it's not working ?
-Rik
Make sure all your connections are firm and good, especially the PMI connection over the ribbon cable.
I'd probably even take the ribbon cable off and re-crimp it in a vise to make sure the connections are firm.
I am Looking for a Bootable 8" Disk Jockey 2D-B Floppy.
Preferable a Single Sided One formated for 1024 Byte Sectors.
I have copies of a Floppy but was unable to copy the System Tracks.
I Need one that will let me rebuild those floppies
Can anyone Help
trebor 78 at execpc.com
Drop spaces and replace at=@
Thanks
Bob in Wisconsin
Fred wrote:
>
> > > IEC power cord with mains plug 2 straight blades in a line, with
> > > perpendicular ground blade "13A 250V" "Fused"
> > Almsot certainly a UK (BS1363) mains plug. The 'blades;' should be quite
> > thich rectanguar pins, with the earth pin larger in all 3 dimensions to
> > the others. The fuse is a 1" long cartridge fuse either inside the plug
> > 9if it's not moulded to the cable) or under in a holder on the pin face
> > of the plug.
> Yes
>
> Do you want them?
>
> If not, does ANYBODY want that kind of stuff?
> (There is a metric buttload of stuff that I can't even get to until some
> stuff starts leaving. (Y'know those puzzles with square pieces with
> numbers on them, or different shaped rectangles, and one unoccupied
> square? - I need to clear that "unoccupied" square!))
> I would prefer to not have to pay much postage nor dump fees to get rid of
> it.
>
Much as I sympathise with the puzzle problem, I can't imagine that there would
be many who are interested in these. In countries where BS1363 sockets are used,
IEC power cords with BS1363 plugs on them just accumulate without anyone having
to do anything. We use them here in Ireland and I've got a big box of those
leads. (Anybody want some?) In other countries, they are not much use unless
someone decides to fit out their workshop with BS1363 sockets.
Regards,
Peter Coghlan.
I am working on getting a Commodore PET 2001 Chiclet keyboard working again. Some of the keys were not working. So I disassembled it and cleaned it. But some of the keys still didn?t work properly. I noticed that some of the keys had something metallic on the bottom of them and others didn?t. It appeared to be random. I talked to some friends and they seemed to think that that the rubber in the keys is a sorta conductive silicon. My suspicion is that this silicon becomes less conductive over time or is not reliable to being with. It seems that the previous owner had fixed some keys by adding some metal to the bottom of the keys. I think it is ordinary aluminum, but I am not sure. When I replaced one of the keys with the thin metal on the bottom to previously not working key, then it worked. My plan is to put this metal on the bottom of all the keys so that they will all work and be reliable. If anyone knows what kind of metal it is and where I can buy it, then I would appreciate it !
Thanks,
Jeff Brace
Hi
Received a request for help on a MC68360 prototype board. This is an intermediate step to the planned MC68040 SBC. If anyone has expertise with the MC68360 and can help please contact me at LYNCHAJ at YAHOO.COM or on the N8VEM mailing list.
Thanks!
Andrew Lynch
From:
To: n8vem at googlegroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2012 7:58 PM
Subject: [N8VEM: 15020] 68360 help
Hi
I have been working of the MC68360 prototype that would be the precursor to the 68040 build. ?I am stymied and would like any ideas on how to proceed. ?Attached are the schematics. ?What I observe on power up is that RESTH* is always low - it is pulled up with a 10K resistor. ? I have tried all kinds of things to figure out why this is so but can not seem to crack this. ?I feel if I can get past this always low condition I might be able to make progress would be greatly appreciated. ?I also have a couple of bare boards if anyone is interested in taking a stab at this.
Thanks in advance?
Dave--
Hello.
Do you still have an image of the ROM data?
I would study it a little, as producing a formatter (also using TU58
mechanics but different electronic) would be very interesting...
Andrea
> I've disassembled the firmware its not there. It's not that hard to do
> the reason I say modded is the 8085
> has only has 256bytes of ram and 2k of rom on the board. So bypassing
> the 8085 or extending the memory
> and firmware by modding the board for more rom space and maybe ram space
> could make the needed
> formatter. In the end you need the TU58 board for the drive interface
> and motor control.
Hi there!
Anyone know the history of the Compaq MSA1000 RAID controller? It came out right around the time of the DEC acquisition by Compaq, and survived through the HP merger...
Does anyone know, was it actually designed by DEC engineers, or Compaq?
Thanks in advance!
-Ben