free but for postage
both have keyboards and the color graphics card, 2 floppies each.
Don't ask me what's wrong, I haven't looked at them, don't have the time nor inclination right now.
07716
I have a fine old Stag PPZ modular EPROM programmer:
http://www.gifford.co.uk/~coredump/inst.htm#PPZ
It takes plug-in EPROM (model Zm2000) and PAL (Zm2200) modules, called
Z-modules by Stag. I've recently acquired a new module, Zm3000, which
looks like a more recent EPROM module. The chips in the Zm3000 are
date coded in 1993, whereas the Zm2000 is nearer 1988. The PPZ main
unit contains a 6809 CPU and a small CRT display.
Does anyone know anything about this system? What about other Z-module
types? In particular, should the Zm3000 work with the PPZ, because I
currently get an error message "Incorrect Mainframe"?
Thanks in advance for any clues! (Virtually all I get from Google is a
link back to my own web page!)
--
John Honniball
coredump(a)gifford.co.uk
Tony Duell wrote:
> I wouldn't put 'Wanton Destruction 40' anywhere near the floppy drive
> (or
> any other aprt of a classic computer). The stuff we get in the UK
> contains some quite long-chain waxy hydrocarbons whcih will gum
> things up
> after a short while.
I second that. WD-40 and 5.56 and the likes may be good for cars and
motorbikes, but they should be kept well away from computers, or for
that matter, cameras.
> The later ones are
> riveted, so you can just rmeove the springs, soak the assmebly in
> solvent, then work the parts back and forth and wipe off the old
> grease
> as it appears. I find propan-2-ol (isporpanol) woeks well for this.
Interesting, propanol is an alcohol and shouldn't be very good at
dissolving grease, in theory. I would have thought white spirit would be
better.
/Jonas
> Not really. The glass parts wil lcome off (interchangeable prism and
> focussing screen), but it's acloth focal plane shutter, shich is not
> the
> best thing to flood with lighter fluid. I'd also have to relubricate
> all
> the bits that need oil anyway.
>
> My expeirence is that flood-cleaning meter movements doesn't work
> eitehr.
Well, it would have been too good to be true...
Soemthing else that I have discovered the bad way is that focussing
screens, which are often made of plastic, do *not* like alcohol. They go
all foggy and are permanently ruined.
> It's perhaps worth mentioningthat a lot of small gear trains, in
> particualr clocks and watches, but also chutter times, etc, are
> supposed
> to run with the teeth _dry_, no oil. Yes, you put a drop on each
> pivot,
> but nowhre else.
The self-timer on my Pontiac Baby Lynx camera had started sticking
after many years of disuse. Some lighter fluid cured that nicely. I did
put a drop of oil on the axles of the gears and AFAIK it still works.
> Now that I didn't realise (not that I normally use silicone
> lubricants),
> thanks!
One learns a lot by reading mailing lists :-) I haven't tried it myself
but I can well believe it is true.
/Jonas
Is List Test 3.0 supposed to work on an unmodified Lisa 2? I'm not quite
sure what's going on. It starts to load and I can watch the head stepping
around. Then after about 45 seconds it just stops with an hourglass on
the screen. Won't respond to keyboard, mouse or the on/off pushbutton!
Any sage advice from the Lisa owners on the list will be appreciated.
Steve
--
> Oh, absoluytely. You'll never do anything if you don't make mistakes,
> try out ideas that come to nothign, etc.
>
> 'The designer who never blew a chip is a bad designer. He never
> designed
> anything' :-)
In that case I must be a brilliant audio equipment designer. The number
of transistors that exploded while I was building my stereo in the 70s
was amazing :-)
I even managed to short out a 2N3055, but I had to drop a test lead
connected to its collector on to a 220V terminal on the mains
transformer to succeed :-)
OTOH, that also caused a BFR39 or something to send half its case
flying about 10m across the room...
/Jonas
> I'm wondering if it would be worth building some form of "small thing
> disassembly box" to alleviate this problem.
>
> Basically, you take a 40-litre under-bed storage box (~?5,
> Poundstretcher), flip it upside down (thus turning the lid into the
> base) and use a holesaw to drill two large holes in the side big
> enough
> to put your hands through. Optionally attach some thin elbow-length
> gloves to these holes so your hands go through the gloves and into
> the box.
>
> This way, anything that decides to "ping" off into never-never-land
> will
> be restricted to "pinging" into one of the walls of the box. Gravity
> ensures that any tiny little things which choose to do this will end
> up
> in or near the bottom of the box.
Taking things apart in a photographic developing tray is a good start.
It won't keep things from pinging off to somewhere where only the cat
will find them, but it catches things like small screws and
ball-bearings that fall out. I like to use old plastic 35mm film
containers to keep small items in, one container for each
subsystem/part/whatever, keeps related parts together so you don't end
up with 55 nearly identical screws that you can't remember where they
went. Taking pictures as you go along with a simple digital camera also
helps if you do not have a service manual.
/Jonas
> Incidentally, I have a 35mm SLR that had a simple fault (a spring
> became
> unhooked under the baseplate). Unfortuantely, the previous owner,
> noticing tha thte slow shutter speeds didn't work, sprayed WD40 into
> evey
> part of it. The result is that everything wil lahve to come apart
> (even
> the exposure meter movement pivots are gummed up). What would ahve
> ben a
> 10 minute repair is goign to take several days.
>
> I also know somebody who sprayed WD40 into a slightly sticking Kurta
> (almost on-topic ;-)). The result was a totally sitcking Kurta.
AARRGGHHH! Those people are EVIL!
Could you remove all glass from your SLR and then flood-clean it with
lighter fluid? Might save some dismantling...
> It's odd, but apart from some people on this list, I can't think of
> any
> source that recomends the use of WD40 on precision mechanisms. Every
> book
> on clock repair, camera repair, instrument repair, etc that I have
> ever
> read warns against it.
It comes up sometimes on the classic camera mailing lists I am a member
of. However there is always a flood of responses strongly advising
against it in no uncertain terms. Many precision mechanisms are better
off unlubricated, e.g. shutters.
Something else to watch out for is keeping anything silicone-based away
from a camera. The silicone adsorbs to glass etc at a molecular level
and is absolutely impossible to remove. I expect that doesn't apply to
computers though.
/Jonas
