Anybody in Las Vegas who'd be willing to help a nice lady doctor
who's trying to read some old 5 1/4 WP5.1 disks on her 386 with
a flaky FDD? Please?
Contact me off-list for her info if you think you can help.
Mike in Toronto (a little too far away ;-(
I just found a post about visiting the Goodwill Computerworks from Aug 2000
while seearching for information on an IBEX 7202 CP/M I have. I have looked
at vintage-computer.com and vintage.org, EBay, and general searches many
times. Yours is the first I've found referencing this computer I have.
Can you tell me more about it? Who might be interested in it and the many
programs I have with it?
One thing I've always been really curious about is who invented the
seven segment display. Not a particular implementation of it, but
the graphic design concept that seven bars are all you need to
display the digits 0 - 9. I'd always assumed it was something that
originated from the creation of electronic calculators. The first
Friden EC-130 for example, uses seven segment patterns on a CRT
(machines prior to that used Nixie tubes).
Well, leave it to Don Knuth to dig up a much older reference. While
browsing his web pages, I noticed a reference to patent 974,943 by
F.W. Wood, issued in 1910(!). It describes an electro-mechanical
"Illuminated Announcement and Display Signal" with a segmented
display. Wood actually uses eight segments (so his "4" has a slanted
top), but other than that, it's exactly the same design as the digits
today's cheap watches and calculators.
Patent (you may need to register first):
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/0974943.pdf
Cheers,
jp
I've acquired an IBM 4865 drive for my 5160 XT - it is a 3.5" external
drive. I've got the 1.44MB version which is wrong for the XT, but with
the correct media (1MB diskettes) it might work.
Besides the normal 37 pin D shell connector that goes to the back of the
floppy controller this drive has a little 4 connector pigtail to provide
operating voltage for the drive. I've picked the drive apart and I
think I know what the pins on the power pigtail are supposed to be. I'd
like to find a nice matching socket for the pigtail instead of just
hacking it, but after an hour into the world of Molex and Amphenol I've
decided to ask for help ...
The picture can be found here:
http://brutman.com/dscf6030.jpg
Thanks in advance,
Mike
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 22:56:31 -0400
From: "Roy J. Tellason" <rtellason at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Cromemco & Persci drives (was PS/2 interface &c)
<snip>
>> it's sometimes convenient to hook up a known good 5 1/4 drive to check out
>> the rest of the system and get it up & running before you dig into the 8".
>> Also makes it easier to make disks from PC images if you need them.
>It's been a really long time since I played with it, but I remember the rest
>of the system working okay, more or less. There's a CPU board and a 64K RAM
>board in there, besides the FDC (which if I'm remembering right also has the
>printer port on it). Does 16FDC sound right?
16FDC sounds right but this takes us back to the original topic: that DB-25 is
the RS-232 console port, not a printer.
>> If there's no HD you might have trouble finding 12V though & need a
>> separate supply or regulator; an external powered 5 1/4 disk in a nice
>> enclosure is a useful peripheral for a System3.
>I suppose I could rig one up, but I don't know about hacking together a BIOS
>for that machine. I never did get into that stuff all that much.
Well, you wouldn't have to hack the BIOS but (assuming you're running CDOS)
you'd need a 5 1/4 CDOS image; I think Dave D has some on his site.
Good luck.
mike
that show is not what it used to be. Certainly not
worth the ~300 mile drive. It used to be in a
different location and was at probably 2x as big.
Did talk w/some interesting people. I met a guy who
has 3,000 computers, including some VERY big iron. Can
you say you know anyone w/this many puters? Can you? I
think not. MUAHAHAHAHAHAHA
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>Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 06:57:40 -0700
>From: dwight elvey <dkelvey at hotmail.com>
> A carbon arc would work as well but I've not seen these
>since they've stopped using these in search lights.
>Dwight
Back in elementary school one of the library books had interesting
projects in it. One project was to remove the carbon rods from four
'D' cells. They're about 1/4" - 3/8" in diameter and run the length
of the cell. It's a bit of a trick to extract them without breaking
them.
Once you have four carbon rods, suspend two in a jar of salt water.
Grip the other two, each with its own wooden clothes pin (the spring
type, not the slot type).
Now steal a heavy duty electrical cord from something like Mommy's
clothes iron. Attach one lead of the cord to one of the carbon rods
in the jar of salt water. Connect the other lead to one of the
carbon rods held by a clothes pin. Now use a spare length of heavy
wire to connect the remaining two carbon rods together.
Plug the cord into the wall.
Now carefully touch the tips of the two clothes pin carbon rods
together and then slowly draw them apart. TADA! Carbon arc.
Vary the salt content in the jar to adjust the power.
I don't recall the instructions saying anything about not looking
directly at the arc. Perhaps this method doesn't generate enough
UV to be useful/harmful? I spent a fair bit of time staring at the
thing. Thirty-five years later I haven't noticed any vision
impairment, but maybe I was young enough for my retina to recover.
It was quite the attention getter at the ES science fair. I suspect
books in grade schools don't contain cool/dangerous projects like
this any more. I only electrocuted myself once or twice by
touching the live bits of the contraption...
Jeff Walther
Hi All,
I want to build a couple of reproduction (work alike) Cromemco
joystick consoles for two reasons:
1) I don't have any real ones.
2) I'll be able to let the "unwashed masses" (my children
included) play various games with worrying about them
getting destroyed.
To this end, I've looked at the pdf of the manual and (to my
delight) discovered that I have all of the required parts.
Well, almost. Two things:
1) The manual calls for a 45 Ohm QUAM speaker. All I have
are plain old run-of-the-mill 8 Ohm internal PC speakers.
My ignorance of basic electronics shines through...
30 minutes of googling and I'm not sure what QUAM means.
Anyway, can I substitute the speaker? With some modification
to the schematic?
2) The manual does not specify the pot values on the joystick.
The joysticks I have have 100K Ohm pots (thanks Tim Shoppa!).
Is that value correct? Is the value important? Can I adjust
for it on the D+7A or in the circuit on the joystick side?
Also, an esthetic question: are the joysticks on the original
self-centering?
Thanks for any help!
BTW: Both manuals (joystick console and D+7A card) are in
the Harte repository.
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