And thusly were the wise words spake by Star Master
>
> Does anyone know where I can get an MSD SD-2 Service Manual? I'm willing
to
> pay an indivual or a company (Can't find one that has it).
> Thanks
This has the schematics and user manual:
http://staff.washington.edu/rrcc/uwweb/MSD-SD2/
Cheers,
Bryan
Thanks Bryan, I already found those...However I need the service and or
diagnostic info for it. When I turn it on all the lights turn on and stay
on, and it is not seen by the computer.
Anyone else?
Thanks
> It is usual to bake the tape at a low-temperature owen (a box with foil
> paper and an incandescent lamp) to dry the humidity of the tapes. It makes
> them less sticky, but PLEASE do not try to re-run the tapes. It is enough to
> save the contents, but not always make tapes useable again
>
> This is an old tip from recording studios...
Bertram and Cuddihy "Humid Aging of Magnetic Recording Tape"
IEEE Transactions On Magnetics Sep 1982
Has a detailed analysis of the failure mechanism in the binder, along with
some temperature/humidity curves that show the rate at which the binder can
be rejuvenated.
I just bought a Toyo Living controlled humidity chamber this past week to
begin the exact characterization of the temperature and humidity protocol
required to process 1/2 tapes so that they can be read safely.
The whole "baking tapes" process has way too much black magic involved, and
I have tapes at the Museum that I have to read that are irreplaceable (and
VERY old) so I don't have the option of just throwing them onto a drive and
see if they start to squeel.
After that is dealing with DC-300's and DC-100's that I've observed with
exactly the same sticking problems.
Fortunately, the Museum has very few TK50s
> Now if only there were some magic to keep a TK50/TK70/TZ30 drive working
> for more than ten minutes.
Ten minutes sounds about the right length of time for the first traversal of
the tape, at which time the collected sticky crud from most old tapes is
deposited at the end of the track when it reverses direction, and then
proceeds to stick the tape to the head.
I don't know if the formulation of the tapes is such that you can remove the
stickiness with heat/dehydration. This is also something I need to try on
DC-300 carts that have become sticky.
You also need to THOUROUGHLY clean the head stack. I have a TZ30 that I
leave partially disasembled so I can pull the stack out the top so it can be
cleaned with isopropyl on a cotton swab.
--
It's probably time to put together lists of what TK50s (distr at least..)
have already been read to save others the grief of dealing with old sticky
media.
> And then there was the attempt when wiring up an outside light where the kid
>decided to hook both wires from the light and both wires from the feed up to
>the switch. Turned the breaker back on and the light was on all the time,
>until he flipped the switch, which popped the breaker, because he had it
>going _across the line_.
Unorthodox, but it does work . . . I know for a fact that Silicon Graphics used a similar system on some machines
(Twin Tower, possibly others) to shut down the power supply if sufficient bits were removed to impede cooling.
Not sure if it was the same designer . . .
Hi,
I've got a Laserjet III that's intermittently throwing Service 50 errors.
Fusing lamp tests good as per
<http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/reference/guides/fuser/sx>. I assume this
means the AC power module has fried itself.
Best I can find on Google is that I need to replace the triac and some
'support components'. I can find component designator IDs, but not component
values - does anyone know what needs replacing, and what to replace it with?
It's also been throwing 13 Paper Jam errors, but there's no paper jam
visible. Anyone know what causes this? I'm guessing the optosensor on the
fuser assembly has failed, but I can't identify the opto. Does anyone have a
part number for it?
Finally, if by some twist of fate I manage to get this thing running, I'm
going to need an A4 paper tray. Anyone in the UK got a spare they feel like
parting with?
Thanks.
--
Phil. | Kitsune: Acorn RiscPC SA202 64M+6G ViewFinder
philpem at dsl.pipex.com | Cheetah: Athlon64 3200+ A8VDeluxeV2 512M+100G
http://www.philpem.me.uk/ | Tiger: Toshiba SatPro4600 Celeron700 256M+40G
I purchased a Computer Link Pack inspector about 2 months ago on Ebay.
I just got a junk pack to play with this week (same vendor). It is marked
"Master Alignment Pack" and is declassified navy badged. Anyway though
people might get a kick out of it.
I would love to have a real use for it, but it is just for collection
and display
purposes.
Jim
http://jwstephens.com/pack-insp-2006-07-20/page_01.htm
I have several old Apple IIs, a TRS-80 (new in the box), and a few other
older computers. I would like to get them all running again, if
possible. I have been putting computers together since the late 80s,
but have little knowledge of actual computer electronics repair
(soldering, replacing broken wires, etc.). I would appreciate any
suggestions about good, accurate, thorough books to purchase so that I
can start teaching myself the basics. There are a number of such books
out there, but I am having difficulty evaluating the accuracy and
thoroughness of them.
Since this question is probably not of interest to many others on the
list, please feel free to email me any suggestions at
jephraim at ci.southlake.tx.us
Many thanks!
Jesse Ephraim
Adult Services Librarian
Southlake Public Library
1400 Main Street, Suite 130
Southlake, TX 76092
(817) 748-8247
jephraim at ci.southlake.tx.us
"A circulating library in a town is as an evergreen tree of diabolical
knowledge."
- Richard Brinsley Sheridan (1751-1816)
