I must be a dolt, but I can't seem to figure out how to open up my IBM
5155 Portable. How do I crack this thing open without damaging
something? I want to add some cards to it (including a hard drive which
is going to be tricky since it doesn't look like there's a lot of room
in there)
--
Jim Leonard (trixter at oldskool.org) http://www.oldskool.org/
Help our electronic games project: http://www.mobygames.com/
Or check out some trippy MindCandy at http://www.mindcandydvd.com/
A child borne of the home computer wars: http://trixter.wordpress.com/
Are these National Instrument NuBus cards still available ?
Laura Walker
Smiths Aerospace, LLC
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>From: "C Fernandez" <fernande at internet1.net>
>
>Dwight Elvey wrote:
>>>From: "Chuck Guzis" <cclist at sydex.com>
>>>I'd recommend Sil-Glide--a silicone gel. Safe for use with just about
>>>anything, including rubber and nylon. Get it at an auto parts store.
>>>
>>>Cheers,
>>>Chuck
>>
>>
>> Hi
>> Also good for improving electrical contacts on connectors. It still
>> isn't all that good as a lubricant but better than dry.
>> Dwight
>
>Are you referring to the Sil-Glyde, or dielectric grease? AGS has a
>dielectric grease, that is not Sil-glyde. The AGS's description of
>Syl-Glyde made me think it's actually not silicone.
>
>Chad Fernandez
>Michigan, USA
Hi
My understanding is that it is silicone grease. It seem to
be the same as the silicone grease that NAPA stores sell under
their brand name. Many dielectric greases are not silicon based
but may work as well to improve contacts of connectors. I've
gotten good results from Syl-Glyde, even on connectors that
have been weakened by over heating ( common in pinball machines ).
I still prefer to use DC#4 but I often can't find the tube and
use what is in the tool box.
Dwight
>From: "Chuck Guzis" <cclist at sydex.com>
>
>On 3/19/2006 at 2:33 PM C Fernandez wrote:
>
>>What kind of grease should I use to re-lube this? I want to provide
>>adequate lubrication between the plastic and steel, but I don't want
>>something that will hurt the plastic. I was thinking about using
>>dielectric grease, since it shouldn't harm plastic, won't melt out, and
>>isn't too messy. However, it's designed as a moisture barrier, not
>>really as a lubricant, I believe. Thoughts anyone?
>
>I'd recommend Sil-Glide--a silicone gel. Safe for use with just about
>anything, including rubber and nylon. Get it at an auto parts store.
>
>Cheers,
>Chuck
Hi
Also good for improving electrical contacts on connectors. It still
isn't all that good as a lubricant but better than dry.
Dwight
Hi,
I have a largish box of random 72-pin memory, but I can't seem to find
a guide online that will help me differentiate the types of memory
based on the manufacturer's chip numbers. I recall back in the day,
one could look at the last couple of digits of the memory chip part
number to tell FPM from EDO, etc. Unfortunately, two evenings of
googlings has only found me consumer-level guides to help clueless PC
owners tell SIMMs from DIMMs - nothing at the chip level.
Thanks for any pointers,
-ethan
Our amateur radio club just got in a number of these things in various
states of repair, and I haven't been able to find any information about
it. The name, Fairchild, and the IEE 4888 bus caught by attenation;
anyone know what these things are and if they are worth checking out?
First line: circle possibly with M in it, INMOS B.
Second line: IMSG170S35 (pretty sure). Third line:
8611 - obviously date of manufacture. Chip has a gold
cover, and is present on a dual 8-bit graphics card
made by Vermont Microsystems, 80188 on board (similar
to an IBM PGA card). Works in a P166MMX DTK mobo...but
not in my IBM PC/AT. And yer know what else...it
emulates CGA (pretty well seemingly, but only tested
it with QBasic thus far). O for the drivers to access
its wild advanced modes *snifful*.
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Just went through another printer with 1/4" of black sound-deadening foam
attached to the insides of the enclosure in absolutely terrible shape. I
found that warm soapy water is the easiest way to remove it--it just
disintegrates into sludge when the water hits it.
I'm thinking of replacing it with 1/2" styrofoam. The noise to be
attenuated is high-frequency 1-3KHz from the printhead.
Does anyone have any thoughts on this--leaving any sound absorption off is
a little more than my ears can take.
Thanks,
Chuck
Just picked up an interesting piece of hardware.
It's a Thunderscan, The working end replaces the ribbon cartridge in an
Imagewriter, The page to be scanned is fed in to the printer and the
optical sensor then scans the page.
It came with a 512 Mac with the demo tape, and reset clip, and floppies
still in the box. It powers up OK, but after a while goes blank, a tap to
the side restores the screen.
Has anyone else seen a thunderscan?
--
Open Source Weekend http://www.osw.ca