>and some Russian Vendor selling Blue and
>White G3's for $100 that everyone said to stay far
>away from.
He was asking $150 each on those when I was there.
I went back today, and most of the pile was gone. I didn't ask how much
they were down to. I'd have considered one if they dropped below $35, but
it wasn't important enough to me to ask.
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
Hello,
The Stomberg Carlson DCO switches used to use that combo and were based on a
dec 11/23. I believe I have controllers and Documentation for the SMS
Drives. If you would like to to try and dig up the info and parts That I
have available, let me know.
Phil
Hi,
after a visit to the local tip this week, I have a few Data General books
available (no computer though :-().
Data General Interface Designer's Manual for Nova and Eclipse line computers
and the following EMI books detailing the system and programming of the DG
machine coupled to a medical scanner:
Scintron 3 camera diagnostic softwares
Scintron 3 service manual
Scinticamera detector head NE8900 & NE8960
IO tester for eclips processor Parts A & B
Nova 3 Exerciser test (N3EXS)
Eclipse microcode flowchart
Eclipse basic instruction ROMS and Decoding
Nova 3 Multi-Programming Rel (SH) (N3MORT03)
a number of these seem to be re-bindings of the equivalent DG publication.
They cost me a beer for the lot, yours for the cost of postage (and a beer
if your feeling generous :-))
Jim.
(weight is around 6lbs for the lot)
Please see our website the " Vintage Communication Pages" at WWW.G1JBG.CO.UK
I went to Trenton too, I missed those two
NextStations... I heard about them from the guy who
had the MacTV and watched it being sold.
I think it finally went for less than $50.00.
There wasn't much there. I barely spent anything.
I think I spent more on food from the food stand than
I did on stuff.
The only thing I got there, that I couldn't have
gotten from a regular show, was a LaserXT computer.
Which is an Apple IIc Sized Computer (Actually built
into a case used for the Laser IIc Clone) that is an
IBM XT Compatible.
For $5.00, I got the unit alone. One Floppy drive and
the manual. No software, no power supply (I believe it
uses a IIc power supply, which should be easy to
scrounge up), and unknown condition or RAM.
Once I get a powersupply for it, it should be fun to
power it up. Hopefully the 5 1/4 disks I've still got,
are working and I can boot from them.
But not much else...
As someone else said, lots of PC stuff, overpriced
beige Macs, and some Russian Vendor selling Blue and
White G3's for $100 that everyone said to stay far
away from.
One vendor in the back had tons of tubes, so anyone
there looking for tubes would have had a ball...
The kids from the college made out like bandits
selling sodas and t-shirts to raise money for their
clubs.
I brought $150.00 with more available from local ATM's
and I think I spent less than $50.00 ($15.00 of which
being the admission.)
I did however, get a nice sunburn...
I was hoping to see a TRS-80 Model I or III (or my
holy grail an LNW-80), some NextStations (which I
missed), maybe an Amiga 500 or an Atari ST, or
assorted peripherals.
I didn't see ANY Tandy stuff there. Not a Model 100,
Coco of any type, Tandy 1000 or anything...
I saw one vendor with an MC-10 Ram Pack, and that was
it.
A Commodore Plus/4 was there, but no
C-64/Vic-20/C-128's... Or any peripherals.
No Ataris, of any type... Including the VCS.
Mostly PC, and the most Mac I've EVER seen at a TCF.
Though this flea was about 1/5 the size of the show in
it's heyday...
If last year was like this, I'm not so sorry now I
missed it.
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Make Yahoo! your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
On Apr 17 2005, 12:19, Teo Zenios wrote:
> Pure magnesium ignites at 476 C and burns at 2200 C so if the case is
pure
> enough (doubtful, additives change the burning properties) and you
get it
> hot enough then good luck trying to put the fire out.
That temperature is for powder or dust. It's much higher for bulk
solid magnesium, normally quoted as 625C or thereabouts, though lower
than its melting point (648C). There are various factors that affect
ignition temperature. See for example:
http://www.netl.doe.gov/coolscience/res_archive/q&a_36.htmlhttp://www.eh.doe.gov/techstds/standard/hdbk1081/hbk1081c.html
and for common alloys:
http://www.parkwayproducts.com/thixomolding/engineering_data.html
Oh, and for some more pictures of what happens when it does burn, and
how hard it is to make that happen:
http://www.theodoregray.com/PeriodicTable/Stories/012.2/
By the way, titanium dust and grit is worse than magnesium dust; when
turning titanium you're supposed to use water-based collant to avoud
ignition risk -- but it's only a few months ago I had my titanium
spectacle frames welded back together. Aluminium too; damp aluminium
dust will spontaneously ignite (another standard school chemistry demo,
it used to be mixed with iodine to produce purple smoke) and its bulk
ignition temperature is lower than that of magnesium's, but I've seen
its auto-ignition temperature quoted as high as 780C. I suppose the
reason I've replied to so many of the posts about this is that people
remember seeing magnesium ribbon burning in school chemistry classes,
but Real Life ain't like the science lab.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
On Apr 16 2005, 21:32, Bob Shannon wrote:
> I think the actual frame here is magnesium alloy, not aluminum.
>
> Any attempt to weld this might be spectacularly bad idea.
Why? Welding magnesium alloy is done in exactly the same ways as
welding aluminium, except of course that different composition filler
rods are preferred. The relevant properties (strength of the base
metal, electrical conductivity, melting point of the metal, high
melting point of the oxide, hydrogen inclusion in the molten metal,
etc) are very similar.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
On Apr 17, 2005, at 9:32 AM, Jules Richardson wrote:
>
> On Sat, 2005-04-16 at 10:51 -0700, Andy Dannelley wrote:
>> Well, I tried the next steps, with my limited equipment, and no joy.
>>
>> Here's what I've tried so far,
>
> Possible reset fault? Check connections to display logic too (PIA /
> 6520 / U1) - pin 1 is ground, 22, 22 and 24 should be at +5V. Pin 11 is
> clock, and pin 8 is the same reset line as for the CPU.
>
> I've got the schematic - it's around the size of 6 sheets of A4 so
> could
> just about scan it if you want (and can't find it on the web already).
>
> cheers
>
> Jules
Thanks for the offer, But I still have the complete documentation set
that I got with the AIM when I bought it way, back then...
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check out as soon as I can,
Later,
AndyD
The HP-2116A in my haul yesterday has a broken chassis:
http://rikers.org/gallery/hardware/20050416_120314
A few questions:
1) does anyone have a 2116 on the list? working or otherwise?
2) The chassis sides appear to be identical. Having a cracked top would
be much better than a cracked bottom. Anyone know if they are in fact
identical and if it's possible to take the whole thing apart and swap
the sides? Recommendations for or against? I know it would be a big project.
3) Thoughts on repairing the chassis? I could bondo, superglue, epoxy,
silversolder, etc. the pieces together, and add a plate behind it
attached with countersunk screws. Would not be very visible once the
panels are put back. I have the two side panels and the bottom panel,
but no top panel. Thoughts on which would work best?
My door is missing the glass:
http://rikers.org/gallery/hardware/20050415_131216
If/when I get the system up and running, I'd like high res scans of a
front panel to recreate one. Anyone know if they panel was glass or some
other material?
Bob? I know your listening. ;-)
--
Tim Riker - http://rikers.org/ - TimR at Debian.org
Embedded Linux Technologist
BZFlag maintainer - http://BZFlag.org/ - for fun!
>
>Subject: Re: HP-2116A chassis (or repairing cast aluminum)
> From: gordonjcp at gjcp.net
>> I think your best bet is welding. I believe that welding aluminum
>> requires special equipment. A guy at my office does something called
>> TIG welding for his robotics projects.
>
Aluminum can be direct welded but it's harder to do and many shops
will resort to TIG as it gives cleaer results.
Once you alloy magnesium more than 25% with anything ti's tendancy
to burn like a torch drops ways off. I've done most Aluminum
alloys using TIG and the preferd torch is the single arc (Arc to work)
and the prefered gas either argon or helium. When done with He the
process gets called heliarc. I've done both. In both cases you need
a TIG rig and inert gas. Many welding shops worth their salt can do
this. But often charge by the hour for a one off. It helps of you've
done all the prep so they can hook up and go. A good TIG weld should
require minimal refinishing to look good.
Don't forget a lot of trucks and trailers these days have a lot of
Aluminum and they do get repairs so the skills are out there.
Due to costs, I'd seriously first try to fine a stripped chassis first.
Allison
