I decided to pull out my first Mac and try to boot it. It won't boot.
The power button on the mother board and the keyboard both do nothing.
So I decided to test the power suppily. I could not find any pinouts for
a IIcx power suppily. Does anyone have that information?
Also I took a close look at the motherboard. It has 7 silver cans.
Capacitors I think. They are all surounded by a thin layer of sticky
goo. Is this a sure sign my caps have leaked?
<http://home.netcom.com/~tlindner/temp/DeadIIcx.jpg>
I appologize for the blury photo, but it gets my point across.
You'll also notice my batery is pulled. Everything on I've read so far
say a IIcx should boot without the batery.
Thanks for the help!
--
tim lindner
tlindner at ix.netcom.com Bright
It does appear to be the 4 x 1.15MB version. There's
an HP warranty label on the back that dates it to
1982.
Crumbs. I'm glad I lugged it home.
--- "Joe R." <rigdonj at cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> they're even there. BTW if your drive is configured
> as four floppy drives
> then it should be valuable and VERY desirable to the
> HP collectors.
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Dave,
My serial number is 2203A01125 so that would confirm
the 1982 date.
Does your documentation give any indication of which
jumpers need to be changed to reconfigure the drive ?
There are several on the controller board but nothing
explicitly marked Option 010 or anything.
--- "J. David Bryan" <jdbryan at acm.org> wrote:
> On 18 Apr 2005 at 18:05, David Comley wrote:
>
> > It does appear to be the 4 x 1.15MB version.
> There's an HP warranty
> > label on the back that dates it to 1982.
>
> Well, you still might be in luck if you want to use
> this with your 64000.
> The configurable controller appeared after serial
> number 2151A04165
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Dan Williams <williams.dan at gmail.com> wrote:
> I don't know anything about this machine but I think this is the
> software you want :
>
> http://h71000.www7.hp.com/freeware/freeware40/ews/
That's it, thanks!
Jan-Benedict Glaw <jbglaw at lug-owl.de> wrote:
> On Tue, 2005-04-19 20:11:51 +0000, Michael Sokolov <msokolov at ivan.harhan.=
> org> wrote:
> > So, does anyone have a copy of the VXT EX load image? TIA for any help=
> ,
>
> I've got a boot image for a VXT2000+ around somewhere, but I don't know
> what kind it is exactly.
Damn thinkos spoil the post... :-( I meant VT1300 load image, I already
had the VXT and VXT EX ones. But thankfully Dan pointed me to what I was
looking for, so I'm happy. :-)
Now I've looked at the EWS documentation and realised that it won't do what
I need after all because it's based on X11R3 and predates MIT-MAGIC-COOKIE-1
and XDMCP, so it'll be unacceptable security-wise. Which means that I'll
have to cash out for a VXT 2000 so I can run VXT EX on the hardware it's
designed for. :-(
MS
Eric Smith wrote:
>> Put it in the garage, powered it up and it ran!
>What??? You didn't test the DC power supplies first? Naughty, >naughty!
Well, it pwered up and ran when I bought it. Tested it then of course -
wouldn't spend that kind of money on a dead one now.
So my main concern was damage caused by the move, especially the memory.
And 160-A would sometimes need module reinsertion after a move.
The power supply was one of the old Ault Magnetics types with
ferro-resonant transformers and built like a boat anchor. I've never
heard or seen of one going bad. If it ever did, you'd need a very
muscular friend to help you move it.
So I felt pretty confortable turning on AC without a pre-test.
The typewriter chassis is a different story. The power supply was cut
out with a pair of dykes! I'm going to be putting in some hours of wire
splicing, tracing, testing before I put the PC boards back in.
>Los Altos Typewriter. They restored the IBM Model B electric
>typewriters used as console devices on CHM's IBM 1620 and DEC PDP-1.
>Don't expect them to do anything with the computer interface part, but
>they do great work on the typewriter mechanism.
>Eric
Thanks for the name - I will visit them and get an estimate. The
typewriter mechanism and encoder, I feel comfortable with. Fixed enough
of them over the years. It's the cosmetics that suck. And some of the
rubber grommets are powder.
My biggest worry - the rubber belts and power roller look to be in great
shape. Even the platen doesn't seem to be hard or cracked.
It's the chassis panels that I will need help with. I can get the rust
off and primer it. But to keep the original texture, I'm going to have
to match the color and paint type. These were originally given multiple
coats and baked.
How far do you go on restorations? Match original paint or just the
color? Use current spray paint or the old enamels? What have others on
the list done for paint restoation?
What do the museums do?
Billy
PS: Anybody one the list have a couple rolls of 1" paper tape they'd
like to sell? I'm down to 2 half rolls, barely enough for adjusting the
two punches.
Just for info, following up on a discussion a while back :)
I've just removed the faceplate on the CRT for an HP 250 that was
suffering from the dreaded mould. Used a bit of resistance wire as
someone here had suggested, and it was a remarkably easy job. Took
about ten mins to make it all the way across the CRT (although I was
only running from a 10V DC supply - I expect there's a lot of scope for
increasing the voltage without risk of damaging the CRT)
The sealant stuff pretty much just peels straight off the front of the
CRT / rear of the faceplate once the two are separated. A knife blade,
not water, and washing detergent shifted the rest and cleaned everything
up.
I'm not sure about trying to re-seal it; that could go horribly wrong
and leave air bubbles trapped in there. Not even sure what stuff to use.
Padding the faceplace out as necessary right at the edges (where it
won't be visible when everything's back together) is probably the best
course of action and it'll look as good as new when back together.
Next interesting task will be getting the paint off the 250's console
desk though - seems like when they were scrapped someone just went
around with a spray-can and put big X's on anything that was being
disposed of...
cheers
Jules
Of the monitors I have, there is mold or ??? under the front glass on
the screens of:
* ADM3 Terminal (or ADM3A, don't remember)
* Soroc IQ120
* HP Terminal (don't recall model)
* DIGITAL monitor (don't recall model, but 12" or so screen)
The HP Terminal was stored in a station wagon, others were stored in the
garage and back porch. I don't remember seeing mold on any monitors used
for the IBM PCs or Apple computers. The weather here is mostly moderate
all year long, and I am about 3 miles from the Pacific Ocean.
> >> On Mon, 2005-04-18 at 15:40 -0700, Vintage Computer Festival wrote:
> >> > The HP300 at the Computer History Museum has the same "mold" effects, as
> >> > does a 2648 I've got in my warehouse. HP CRTs (especially the elongated
> >> > ones found on the mentioned machines) seem to be more typically
> >> > susceptible to this effect than other CRTs. I wonder what it is about
> >> > them?
> >>
> >> Yep, I've not seen it on much else. Digico springs to mind, plus a
> >> couple of others that we have whose names escape me right now - but it's
> >> almost exclusively the HP stuff.
> >
> >Another product where you see this effect consistently is with ADM 3A
> >terminals.
>
> Hmm. I've never seen it on one. I expect that the source of the device
> and where/how they were stored makes a big difference.
>
> Joe
>