I've got a system with a couple large electrolytics that hasn't been
powered up in a number of years. I have a 5A Variac. What's the
typical procedure for the reformation process? Remove all cards (or
maybe leave a junk card in for load?), start the Variac at 0V, increment
by 10V every so often? How long per step, and/or is a different step
suggested?
I've seen lots of people say "you'll need to reform the caps,
first", but never a prodecure for it.
--jc
Tony, thanks for the help. It's more than I knew before.
I can be persistent, in fact a friend of mine is looking up
"communications analiser" as we speak. He too uses an
old HP. Somewhere, I may find the answers. I've got friends
that are very much into computers. The more I think about it,
the longer the list grows! One for instance had me paint
"free recycling" on the front of his computer store.
That sounds like something with real possibilities for the people
on this board. He gets shipping pallets full of the old stuff.
Got to be something interesting in there.
How about this: you just go to a sign maker,
have them cut you some vinyl letters that say "free computer recycling, www..."
maybe a ph number. Put the lettering on the back window of you vehicle,
and bingo! Old stuff. Find out what they have, if you're not interested,
give the location of a different place that takes it.
In fact, to show my gratitude for this board, I'll send said lettering
FREE to the first 3 people that ask for it.
:) Just havin' fun (but the offer is valid), thanks again.
>
>Subject: Re: Legacy apps in Windows/OS X was Re: Old MS-DOS & Win Software
> From: Jim Leonard <trixter at oldskool.org>
> Date: Wed, 07 Dec 2005 17:22:52 -0600
> To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts <cctalk at classiccmp.org>
>
>Cameron Kaiser wrote:
>>>What's really water under the bridge is 16-bit mode in Windows. Vista
>>>doesn't support it, period. Maybe someone will write a 16-bit emulator
> >
>> PPC applications written for the G3 under Carbon. That means Classic apps
>> -- including 68K apps -- will probably die in the future.
>
>What bothers me is: How hard is it to include an emulator? Who cares if the
>emulator is 100x as slow as the real thing when you're running it on a machine
>that is capable of running OS X or Windows Vista?
>--
Jim,
It's real hard when the vendor(s) want you to buy office suite 2007 or
whatever. Till someone (not a vendor) gets the emulator written the
rest of will run it on classic hardware and software.
"The only way to win the game is to not play."
Allison
Hi
I found the government reference. It is at:
http://www.multi-volti.com/hb1131.pdf
They mention using a lamp as a current limiter but
as I stated earlier, lamps have changes in resistance
with temperature. Unless the lamp is used in the
intended voltage range, one can not depend on the
resistance being close.
They recommend reforming when stored for more than
3 years. They state that if the capacitor does not
reform in 3 hours, it is considered bad.
The values they show are for larger filter capacitors
( my guess as this is an old document ).
They show 5 ma for axial and 10 ma for screw threaded
radials.
It should also be noted that they are not trying to
save every capacitor, just put capacitors into condition
for use. If one shorts, so be it. If you are trying to
save capacitors, you might want to be a little more
friendly to it.
Dwight
>From: "Dwight K. Elvey" <dwight.elvey at amd.com>
>
>Hi
> There is a government spec on reforming
>capacitors that have been in storage for
>military specs. I don't recall if I saw this
>on this list or maybe one of the news groups.
>Dwight
>
>
Pretty easy- long handled T-15 to remove the two screws under the handle and two at the lower back. I wouldn't use the screwdriver-you can scar the case and it's usually not necessary. Put the Mac facedown on a soft surface, lift it a little by the back and shake- that has always done it for me. Another thing that can work is one of the "stationary clips" with the round spring (not the ones with the blued spring steel shaped a bit like a triangular prism).
Once you have the cover off, worm your fingers in and disconnect the power, SCSI, floppy et al before pulling out the board. The SE&SE/30 expansion cards are two piece, you should be able to disconnect the cable and remove before pulling the mainboard.
>
>Subject: Re: Building M8027 hookup
> From: Dennis Boone <drb at msu.edu>
> Date: Wed, 07 Dec 2005 14:45:34 -0500
> To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts" <cctalk at classiccmp.org>
>
> > I've looked at that manual before posting, and it does not have much
> > to work out from. All the names of the signals are different.
>
>Ready is inverted between the two, I think. Both have the same basic
>data transfer signals. Dataproducts has forms handling stuff that's
>not in centronics.
the LPV-11 was a upgrade and improved LAV-11. The LPV-11 has jumpers to
handle things like parity, polarity of strobe to mention a few. All the
manuals I have show the jumpers but do not give pinouts..
>You should be able to compare what's in the LPV11 manual to these and
>work out which are which. Then figure out the pin numbering schemes
>used in the LPV11 manual.
They use an identical connector. TO sort out how to make a foreign cable
you really need the printset for it. Either that or wire a DLV-11 serial
card and use that to drive a serial interface printer.
Allison
OK, I'm trying to build myself a hookup for an M8027(LPV11) to run to my
distribution panel.
I've done some reading, and it is clear that this is a Centronics compatible
card, so I have the right one.
Does anyone know the pinout for this device? I'm confused. I know you can
use other printers with this card, and I'm just looking to do raw text to an
old Panasonic dot matrix printer - but I don't know what signal is what.
As usual, any help is appreciated.
TIA
Julian
Regarding www.series80.org:
Lyle Bickley <lbickley at bickleywest.com> wrote:
> Forget my last comment re:login/passoword - I was using the Konquerer browser
> - when I changed to the Firefox browser - all was O.K. (you do need a
> login/password - but you are given them in Firefox's error message).
Sorry about the authentication step, but it has slashed downloads
>from automated tools from my site. I find that this works much better
than robots.txt because few (if any) robots are clever enough to
look at the error page for the passwd.
BTW the incantation is also present in the authentication window (but
I guess nobody ever reads messages on pop-up windows anymore :-)
**vp
Hi
It is an interesting article but I suggest that
the leakage currents may be over stated. 1,000 ma at
500 Volts is 500 Watts. This is way too much for a
capacitor. Even 1 ma at 500 volts is quite a bit
more than most capacitors can handle for any length
of time at 500 Volts.
I would suggest that the translation from the original
article may have replaces the micro symbol with
a m instead of a u as is normally done.
Things to consider are that there are two factors
when reforming. There is the production of gases that
is directly related to the current flow and then there
is the power dissipated. This is voltage times current.
Both must be considered.
A 500 volt capacitor should never have more than
1 ma of current flow and should most likely be in
the 100 ua range for much of the reforming. Low voltage
capacitors can handle more power but become limited
by the gases produced and not the power. 10 ma for
a good sized can is about max. Smaller cans should
have less current. A small 10 uF 30V cap shouldn't have
more than 25 to 50 ua at most.
It has been mentioned that one can use current limited
supplies. I've not seen ay that would limit the current
to a fine enough adjustment to be correct for reforming.
A resistor is best. Always start with a lower voltage
even if you have a resistor. The oxide coating in the
capacitor is not evenly eroded. It has a number of
locations that may be thinner. These need to be brought
up to the level of the rest without over heating them
locally.
To determine when to bring the voltage up, watch
the voltage drop across the limiting resistor. I recommend
starting with a voltage of about 1/10 the rating and
measuring the voltage. Each time the voltage is increased,
never let the current go more than was seen at the
beginning. This can be observed by watching the voltage
drop on the resistor. Never start with more than 1/2
the rated voltage, regardless of the current limiting
resistor. Always finish by bring the capacitor to
the full operating voltage. One doesn't need to bring
it to the rated value.
Most of the methods mentioned here for current limiting
protect the rest of the supply but not the capacitor.
A lamp on the input leads will not do much to limit
current at the levels needed to keep excess gas from
building in the capacitor. Those that have had success
have been luck rather than having a good procedure.
Remember, excess gas will not show failure until some
later date. The capacitor will seem to be OK but
dry up over time because of a ruptured seal.
Using a lamp on the input to a variac may not be
too useful. The variac waste quite a bit of power.
In order to get the variac to a useful operating level,
the current limiting will be way beyond what is
useful in protecting a capacitor while reforming.
A series resistor at the capacitor is the only method
I know that is truly safe for the capacitor!
Dwight.
>From: "woodelf" <bfranchuk at jetnet.ab.ca>
>
>Joe R. wrote:
>
>> Q: How high of a voltage do you use the reform the caps? I'm wondering
>>if it's necessary to apply full (or nearly full) rated voltage or if
>>they're fully reformed at say 5 VDC. Has anybody done any testing in this
>>area?
>>
>>
>I assume the vorking voltage + some safety margin.
>A quick search found this link on the web of a circuit to reform the caps.
>http://www.vmars.org.uk/capacitor_reforming.htm
Hi,
My apologies for being so off-topic, but I see this mailinglist as a
nice place to find nice people that think alike.
Here's my question: can anyone give me an address where I might find a
used fuel pump for a hercules white car. The engine is a 6-cilinder. I
think it's an rather uncommon car in the netherlands so that may explain
why it is so hard to find parts for it.
Thanks in advance and kind regards,
Bert