Anyone have experience or know for a factor of a Bachelor's degree program
that teaches computer hardware and software in a logical order and
comprehensively?
On Jan 16 2005, 7:40, Vintage Computer Festival wrote:
> The MS TCP/IP stack works surprisingly well. The setup program is
easy to
> use and fairly powerful, and the accessibility you get on a DOS box
is
> really good. It has support for a number of NICs (including the
generic
> NE1000 and NE2000). And most of the modules can be loaded high,
saving
> your main memory for applications. I can mount WinXP drives on my
lowly
> DOS box would full read/write access. You don't get long filenames,
of
> course, but you can still access any file because of the "stem" that
MS
> puts in the filesystem to convert long names to 8.3.
Yes, that's pretty much how I set it up, except I don't publish shares
on Windows machines; I use samba instead. The MS client does
everything I want to do with DOS, and you can upgrade the support for
NICs by adding drivers, too.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
On Jan 16 2005, 7:18, Cameron Kaiser wrote:
> > I built a similar setup a few months ago, but I used the Microsoft
> > TCP/IP stuff on top of DOS 6.22. It was easy to set up, and now I
have
> > telnet, FTP, ICMP (some stacks don't support that), and the whole
thing
> > uses DHCP and mounts drives from my Samba server.
>
> Showoff. ;)
>
> Did you use LAN Mangler, er, Manager, or something else?
Nope, I used the "Microsoft Network Client 3", which comes as a couple
of DOS disks. I seem to remember having to update one of the files,
and add a driver from a 3Com disk. Even so, it only took an hour or so
to download and set up, including at least one false start, and some
messing with HIMEM. I spent maybe an hour more messing with things to
save as much space as possible. If anybody wants to try it, I
bookmarked the webpage I found most helpful:
http://www.windowsnetworking.com/j_helmig/dosclnt3.htm
IPX/SPX are banned from my networks, so obviously I only installed the
TCP/IP stuff.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
On Jan 16 2005, 9:14, Stan Barr wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Cameron Kaiser said:
> > > Remember the joys of TCP/IP on MS-DOS in the late 1980s?
> >
> > Remember it? I live it. The 486 DOS laptop besides me took several
days to
> > piece everything together. It runs a 3Com packet driver on top of
some
> > crufted together Card/Socket Services TSRs, and then NCSA Telnet
and FTP
> > have their own TCP stacks that will talk to it. So does Arachne, it
seems.
>
> I've just been doing much the same thing so I can ftp stuff over to
my
> headless 486 that thinks it's a PDP-11 - old NE2000 card, Crwnyr(sp?)
> driver and NCSA telnet/ftp.
I built a similar setup a few months ago, but I used the Microsoft
TCP/IP stuff on top of DOS 6.22. It was easy to set up, and now I have
telnet, FTP, ICMP (some stacks don't support that), and the whole thing
uses DHCP and mounts drives from my Samba server.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
On Jan 16 2005, 15:53, Stan Barr wrote:
> > Question - is plexiglass the same as perspex, or is it a totally
> > different animal?
> >
>
> They're similar, both are trade names for a type of transparent
synthetic
> resin. Perspex is, I think, more similar to Lucite, or is that yet
> another trade name for the same thing?
>
> Over the years I've used "Perspex", "Lucite" and "Plexiglass"
(courtesy
> of the US Air Force!) and they appear to be identical.
They're all acrylic resins, but while in my possibly limited experience
Perspex and Lucite seem to be trade names for much the same stuff,
Plexiglass seems to be more brittle.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
Thanks to all for the good advice.
I don't own a drill press, and I'm not certain about which type of plastic it
is (lexan, plexi, etc.) -- I used the term 'plexiglass' generically -- and I'm
storing it at my father's house so it is not handy for me to check right now.
Avoiding fabrication during the cold weather will also be tough, as his
workbench is in the garage, and it's very cold here in New Jersey (there is no
space to work on projects like this here in my tiny apartment). Maybe I'll
plug in a space heater in his garage before I start drilling and such.
When the project is finished (hopefully in a couple of weeks) I will post a
note about it here, photos on my web site, etc.
Evan
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There was a discussion here in the latter part of December about old
sites on the web, someone asked about whether anyone had saved an old
Google page. Anyway, here's a link to a site that has a massive
archive of old web pages, they say they have 100 terabytes of material
with 10 billion web pages saved :
http://web.archive.org/collections/web.html
Some of you will know about the site but others may not. I've done
searches for the Apple site (now that I'm really into macs) as well as
IBM and both Ebay and Google. The Ebay pages that come up still have
all of the listings on them but when you try to click any individual
link, you get a 'delisted' page. But the listings are still
interesting. The Apple site dates back to when OS 8.6 was the cutting
edge. Doesn't seem to be anything before 1996 but then there wasn't a
whole lot out there before that anyway.
Point of all this is that if you had an old site saved as a favorite,
an owner's manual site for instance, you should be able to put in the
url and get an archived copy of the old site. I know people who have
been able to recoved lost/hijacked sites using this url and I hope
some of you find it interesting. If something has disappeared on the
modern web, it might still be at this site in the archives.
BM
I'd seen the commercials for this instant-on battery-powered
soldering iron and wondered if I should add it to my tool box.
I saw this FAQ on Thinkgeek:
http://www.thinkgeek.com/files/FAQ040504.pdf
which made me think twice:
Q: What kind of soldering projects is this tool recommended for?
A: Based on the specifications mentioned above, we recommend this
tool for most electrical projects (such as wires 18-24 AWG), small
jewelry repair, and larger electronic projects. We do not recommend
it for soldering of large metallic components that require a lot
of heat transfer or for soldering sensitive electronic components
that may be damaged by fast-rising temperatures or high electrical
current. (Momentary high-amperage current will be created during
active soldering.)
Q: What is the spark I see sometimes during soldering?
A: The spark (arc) is caused by the passing of electrical current from
one half of the tip to the other. Although in testing the tool’s spark
did not damage any electrical or electronic components, we recommend
caution when soldering sensitive components. Also, ensure that the
tool is not used in flammable or explosive environments.
- John
Hello!
I just aquired not only a very cool TDV2200 (which is currently printing
with its matrix printer the entire bash manpage, muahahaha, one hour and
counting), but also a Tandberg X-terminal - this terminal needs a boot
image that is to be served to it at startup. Apparently this came on a
CD-ROM - does anyone have the boot files or the CDROM?
TIA!
--
Tore S Bekkedal <toresbe(a)ifi.uio.no>
On Jan 15 2005, 18:51, Computer Collector Newsletter wrote:
> I've heard some horror stories about whole (expensive!) sheets of
plexiglass
> simply breaking in half when incorrectly drilled through. The guy at
the
> plastic supply company tried selling me a special drill bit, but I'm
hesitant
> about that. Does anyone has hands-on experience and tips (vs. just
> speculation) about working with this stuff? This computer will be on
display
> as some public events, so the final appearance is very important.
The biggest problem is likely to be as the drill bit breaks through.
If you look at the end of a twist drill you'll see that the centre
doesn't cut in the same way as the edges, and it's the force of the
centre distorting the plastic as it breaks through that causes cracks.
The other problem is if you don't have enough control of the drill,
and the bit "snatches".
Tips:
use a really sharp bit
drill a small pilot hole first, and maybe enlarge that to some
intermediate size so the pilot hole is a little larger than the
point of the final drill
put the plexiglass on a smooth block of wood or spare plexiglass,
hold it down *firmly*, and drill through into the wood (make sure
there's no swarf from earlier holes trapped between the plexiglass
and the sacrificial material)
run the drill slowly enough to avoid generating heat, but keep
just enough pressure on it to ensure it keeps cutting, and
doesn't rub
use a drill press, not a hand-held drill
practice on a piece of scrap first
I drill lots of plastics, some very brittle, this way.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
