der Mouse <mouse(a)rodents.montreal.qc.ca> wrote:
> (There are two sockets with no cables to plug into them as
> far as I can tell; I don't _think_ I have any cable ends hiding,
> but....)
The big cavity clearly visible from the rear with the covers off
is for the duplexer. The socket in the corner of this cavity right
next to the formatter/PSU area is where the duplexer connects, that
socket is wired to the DC controller and is very handy for checking
voltages.
The other socket is on the front directly above the upper tray cavity,
that's for the envelope feeder. It is wired to the Paper Input PCA.
The service manual contains a one page main wiring diagram. No
schematics for individual boards, but at least all inter-board
connections are shown with pinouts.
MS
>From: "Bryan Pope" <bpope(a)wordstock.com>
>
>
>
>Which to buy? I am looking at two different ones - The WTCPT which you
>have to buy different tips to control temperature or the WES51 which has
>adjustabel temperatur control and is a little cheaper.
>
>I know either one would probably be a good investment but what is the
>advantage of one over the other?
>
>Thanks!,
>
>Bryan Pope
>
>
Hi
I use the WTCPT type but I think these are now days being
replaced by the adjustable ones. I've stopped buying the
entire station and just buy the handles. The base just contains
a 24V transformer and a fuse. A radio shack transformer
works fine and is a lot cheaper. A little piece of plywood
and coat hanger wire make up the rest.
Dwight
>From: "der Mouse" <mouse(a)rodents.montreal.qc.ca>
>
>>> I would guess that replacing the cap should put it back in working
>>> order.
>> I've now removed the cap. [...]
>
>Duh, I forgot to say: I've more than removed the dead cap.
>
>The bottom of the cap is visibly damaged; it has lost a good deal of
>some black material. The baord is also visibly damaged; the
>component-side etch under the capacitor has lost its coating, and the
>board is significantly pitted, too.
>
>I replaced it with a 220/35 cap from my parts drawer; when I put the
>result in place, turning it on produced another flash of light from
>that area. I removed it again and cleaned the area with water and an
>old toothbrush and let it dry overnight.
>
>Now, the power supply no longer does the tick-tick-tick overload thing;
>it comes on and stays on. But it doesn't work; I get the usual walking
>lights, then the 05 SELF TEST display, then SWITCHING TO PS; after a
>bit, it changes to 55 SERVICE. This may be because I still have all
>the covers off - there may be sensor switches - or it may be because
>the pc board damage has broken a critical etch run or something. I do
>note a very faint ticking noise, disturbingly reminiscent of the one I
>mentioned before - but far less frequent (maybe every five seconds) and
>a great deal softer; I had to listen closely to be sure I wasn't
>imagining it.
>
>I think one of you said something about having a service manual; does
>it happen to say what 55 SERVICE means?
Hi
I think most of the error messages are listed but sometime it
just says something like "replace the xxx board under the main board".
If you know what I mean. Look at the board carfully. It sounds like
you had a small electrical fire. Remove any charred PC board and
look to see if traces are burnt through. Missing solder mask is not
an issue but missing copper is.
I'll look for my manual to see what it says( not here so will
report back tomorrow ).
This sounds like a PS board. Not having the drawings here, this
might be the case. If so, the diode or diode bridge may shorted.
This would wipe out the cap and maybe a few more parts.
Dwight
>
>Failing that, does anyone happen to have a spare board? It's the
>smaller of the two digital logic boards - the one that measures
>something like 6 by 8 inches, the one you have to remove the big one to
>get at. (I don't _like_ boardswapping, but absent the tools and doc
>I'd need to diagnose this one, I see little alternative.)
>
>/~\ The ASCII der Mouse
>\ / Ribbon Campaign
> X Against HTML mouse(a)rodents.montreal.qc.ca
>/ \ Email! 7D C8 61 52 5D E7 2D 39 4E F1 31 3E E8 B3 27 4B
>
Sorry for the obvious reply to a private message...
But I do have Model 35 Doc s if not available on-line...
We now return you to your regularly-scheduled discussions of Mercury,
Guns, Carburettors, and Sellam's State of Mind.
Cheers
John
Peter C. Wallace <pcw(a)mesanet.com> wrote:
> That reminds me, I have a bad 4SIMX printer (Jams) available for free (Pickup
> in SFBA only) It has Duplexer and Postscript options...
Well, since I've already got mine working and fattened with the full
set of options, I don't need it, but would you also happen to have a
broken tray that could be raided for parts? See my long post, at the
end where I ask about a little plastic part from a tray.
MS
>From: msokolov(a)ivan.harhan.org
---snip---
>
>With the help of the service manual (OK, part swapper guide) I figured
---snip---
Hi
This is what I meant by worthless. It doesn't even list signals or
anything. Nothing like a schematic exist.
>
>The NX engine has 300 DPI and 600 DPI versions, and the difference is
>only in the DC controller board. Every other part is the same, as are
>options like the duplexer. Formatter boards would be different too,
>not just between HP IIISi and 4Si (which have a bit more significant
>differences at the formatter/personality level), but other folks like
>DEC who used the NX engine would have had to redesign the formatter
>board for the higher resolution when going from NX/300 to NX/600.
>But still, it's an interesting thought that all paper handling options,
>i.e., the duplexer, high capacity sheet and envelope feeders, etc.,
>and even the plain paper trays are exactly the same between HP IIISi,
>HP 4Si, DEC LPS17, probably others...
I wonder if there is a Canon repair manual out there that actually
has useful information in it?
>
>Speaking of paper trays for NX printers, I wonder if anyone here might
>have one piffling little plastic part they would be willing to part with.
>Do you know the metal plate/bar that goes across the tray near its back
>(most protruding) end? That metal plate/bar has two plastic pivots on
>its side that hold it in the tray. The right pivot in one of my trays
>is broken, but the tray is perfectly fine otherwise. Since it's just
>this piffling little plastic part that needs replacement, I really don't
>want a whole new tray. It's not a matter of cost, I just don't want
>another tray, I want to fix the one I have. The piffling little plastic
>part I need has a part number, RB1-1074, it's molded into the plastic
>and it's a Canon part number, so it's the same whether it came from Canon
>to you through HP or through DEC or however. But no printer parts store
>is willing to sell me that piffling little plastic part, they want to
>sell me another tray that I don't want. So I wonder, would someone here
>happen to have a spare RB1-1074 that I could have? Perhaps from a broken
>tray that's broken in another way? TIA,
>
>MS
>
You may have to break down and buy a tray from ebay. I have seen
a couple of parts trays show up on ebay. You know, missing the
top or something. The biggest cost would be the shipping.
For other, the IIIsi and 4si are heavy duty printers. Most of the
cheaper table top models would not hold up to the kind of use
these units will take. They are also quite fast as well. The
one I have was used at the company I was previously at as a
server printer ( hundreds if not thousands of pages a day ).
I don't use it quite that much but it is great to have something
that can do heavy work. If I have the information in digital
form, it is better than having a copier.
Dwight
>From: msokolov(a)ivan.harhan.org
>
>der Mouse <mouse(a)rodents.montreal.qc.ca> wrote:
>
>> I had to replace the fuser on mine because I left it on 24/7 while
>> printing only occasionally (every few days). The fuser eventually went
>> bad under that treatment.
>
>Hmm, I use mine in the exact same manner, does this mean I'm mistreating
>the fuser? I wonder, would the powersave mode help? It turns off the
>heater, doesn't it? Right now my printer doesn't go into powersave because
>the lower tray is out (see my previous message about looking for a tray
>part), but it should work with both trays in. I would really like the
>printer to work as a server, even if it's a rarely used one.
>
>MS
>
Hi
The most common failure of the fuser lamps is not the filament,
it is the contacts at the end. They get corroded over time.
I've used some of the lower temperature silver solder on the
lamp ends and that seems to work fine. I've not done this on
the HP yet but I've fix a couple of copiers this way.
Still, it is a lamp and they do fail over time.
Dwight
der Mouse <mouse(a)rodents.montreal.qc.ca> wrote:
> I had to replace the fuser on mine because I left it on 24/7 while
> printing only occasionally (every few days). The fuser eventually went
> bad under that treatment.
Hmm, I use mine in the exact same manner, does this mean I'm mistreating
the fuser? I wonder, would the powersave mode help? It turns off the
heater, doesn't it? Right now my printer doesn't go into powersave because
the lower tray is out (see my previous message about looking for a tray
part), but it should work with both trays in. I would really like the
printer to work as a server, even if it's a rarely used one.
MS
>> Mr Watzman did not ask, and I would not have given him permission
>> to sell the material from bitsavers.
>>
>> I have asked him not to mention my URL in any of his future
>> usenet postings.
>>
>> For the record, I DO NOT want the material from my site to be sold
>> in any form.
>
>And likewise, what little information I have contributed to bitsavers
>is not to be sold. It's to be shared on bitsavers, but I do not
>want any money exchanged for anything that I donate.
I have Barry's DVD - I find it very useful, and it's the cheapest way for
me to get the material (in fact, it's the ONLY way for me to get some of
the material).
I also see a fair bit of material that I have scanned on it, and I have no
trouble with that - in fact I have told Barry to go ahead and use any of
my material that he wants. I recently (yesterday) finished all 7 SuperPET
manuals (1500+ pages) and I have already contacted Barry to see if he wanted
me to send them early (I have a lot of material backed up and probably won't
get to a site update for another month) - I expect to see them on the DVD
once he gets them, and I also do not expect the price will increase because
they were added (think about why that might be).
I live in the country where A) there is no high-speed service B) they are not
putting in high-speed service, and C) they aren't planning to put in high-speed
service in the forseeable future (I ask every couple of months).
On a good day, I can get 2k/second download speeds, and I can sometimes
keep that up for 20 mins before the connection goes down.
[Thats why it takes time to update my site - I have to burn it to CD's and
physically take it into the city]
Having access to a DVD with gigs of material, a lot of which I will use
is well worth what Barry is asking ... For that price, he is buying a good
quality DVR-R blank, and spending his own time to burn it and ship it. Not
to mention that he has obviously spent some time downloading and organizing
the material.
If he were charging $100 or $200, I might take offense, however he's charging
$35, and frequently publishes the places where those who have the ability can
get the material for free (except apparently some people don't want him to
let people know where their "free" stuff is - Not sure how that makes sense).
$35 buys about 20 mins of my time - I would spend a lot more than that trying
to get the material via a modem, which would likely be unsuccessful. I've
already extracted several very large files from the DVD that I've been trying
to get for some time but have found to be "impossible" due to the size.
I doubt he's making any substantial profit at it - in fact, given the amount
of material that he himself has scanned and archived, I expect it's cost him
lots in time and money over the years (it sure has me!). If he is able to make
$5 or $10 a DVD, then I think thats good - it *MIGHT* be enough to keep him
doing it, and might even help recover some of his other costs - but as noted
above, I doubt he's making any real money from it.
Are you willing to take the time to burn and mail DVD's of your "free" material
when someone asks? How about if 10 people a week ask?
Your position would prevent me from obtaining the material because I cannot
download it directly from your site.
I am also wondering how you manage restricting your site to only freenet
subscribers? - clearly anyone using an ISP is paying for the delivery of your
material, and that constitutes "money changing hands". In fact, they are
providing delivery of your material strictly as a "for profit" business -
they have absolutely no interest in preserving vintage documentation at all.
A DVD - reasonably priced for the service it represents is no different -
it's just a means of delivery (except in this case it is being done from
someone who is active in collecting and preserving the material).
Clearly he is not charging for the actual material (otherwise why would he
keep telling people where to get it directly - well - at least the sources
he's permitted to give out).
And yes, I have also purchased Walnut Creek and InfoMagic CD collections which
work out to a considerably higher $$ per meg than Barrys offering (and they are
mass produced at far less cost than Barry's offering) - because for some people
(like me), physical media is the best way to get the material.
No: I don't know Barry other than that I have communicated with him a few times
regarding documents that I needed or had available.
Whew!!! --- nuff said.
Regards,
Dave
--
dave04a (at) Dave Dunfield
dunfield (dot) Firmware development services & tools: www.dunfield.com
com Vintage computing equipment collector.
http://www.parse.com/~ddunfield/museum/index.html
