>From: "Scott Stevens" <sastevens(a)earthlink.net>
>
>On Wed, 07 Apr 2004 16:08:17 -0400
>Jim Donoghue <jim(a)smithy.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm trying to find a Z80 disassembler for Linux. There are a bunch of
>> DOS ones out there, doesn't do me any good. A long time ago I had
>> downloaded one that was source and compiled it, but I can't remember
>> what it was. Anybody know of one?
>>
>> Jim
>
>Anything as simple as a Z80 disassembler is a stdin/stdout app anyway.
Hi
It is interesting that my definition of a disassembler is
quite a bit different than yours. I would call this a code
lister. A disassembler includes comments, selecting data types,
labeling branching and entry points and statistical cross referencing
( usually as comments in code ). This is often an interactive
process.
I guess writing one's own disassemblers tends to spoil a person.
Dwight
On Apr 13, 14:43, chris wrote:
> >Correction. I just learned that the flash point for 3-in-1 oil is
305
> >degrees Fahrenheit. If I recall correctly, the Laserjet II's fuser
is
> >heated to 320 degrees F., so... still, not good.
>
> put a little on a non flammable surface (like concrete), just a small
> amount (comparable to what you put on the fuser)... touch a match to
it.
> If it doesn't ignite, you should be good to go on the fuser. Matches
burn
> hotter than 305 degrees. (do NOT do this test on a flammable surface
or
> with anything like a cup or cap of oil... given enough fuel/O2 mix,
the
> match will ignite the oil, and not in a very nice manner)
That's a very poor test, and the quantity is not what matters to the
chemicals partaking (or not) in the reaction :-) The local heat
capacity is. The concrete keeps the oil much cooler than is required
to *sustain* burning, and the hot fuser is not comparable to a slab of
cold concrete. Pour half a cup of petrol (er, gasoline) into a bucket
of water, drop in a match, and watch the match go out...
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
Last night, I made the mistake of putting some 3-in-1 oil (yes, I
know, it's not a good lubricant) in the bushings around the teflon
roller (that the heater lamp runs through) in my Laserjet II when I
disassembled the fuser to replace a worn 14-tooth gear. I should have
done a more thorough disassembly and used grease rated for use with
high temperatures... anyway, what concerns me is the low flash point
for the 3-in-1 (if what's in the can I used is the same as the spray;
the spray is all I could find data for, flash point about 101 degrees
F).
When the printer warms up for a few seconds, there's some smoke. I
was thinking that it might just smoke a bit and then eventually stop
smoking, but I remember, all too well, the time I accidentally spilled
some motor oil on a hot exhaust manifold when I stopped at a service
station on the way to pick up my PDP-11/73 system years
ago... fortunately a rag was able to be used to put out the flames,
and I do mean big bright yellow flames, quickly before any damage was
done. Is this 3-in-1 oil likely to do the same thing in the fuser
assembly? If it wasn't raining outside, I'd be tempted to put said
oil on an old fuser assembly with a scratched up roller, with all
useable parts removed, take it outside, apply power to it, and see
what happens.
--
Copyright (C) 2003 R. D. Davis The difference between humans & other animals:
All Rights Reserved | My VAX | an unnatural belief that we're above Nature &
www.rddavis.org | runs VMS & | her other creatures, using dogma to justify such
410-744-4900 | doesn't crash!| beliefs and to justify much human cruelty.
Hi,
Somebody dropped off the following items (operational condition unknown)
to the Bletchley Park computer museum the other week which we can't
really make any use of:
Two Racal Milgo Omnimux 82 advanced statistical multiplexors
An ACT SDM-T (seems to convert several analogue phone lines to
digital)
An X-TEC Protocol Converter
A Wellfleet Access Node Communications Server
Large industrial rack system with 5" VGA display, Colorado 1440 tape
drive, 3.5" floppy, PSU, and a huge backplane containing 4 PCI slots and
15 ISA slots. We actually have two units, but may be keeping the screen
>from one of them as it could prove useful for something at a later date
- maybe the backplane and chassis is still useful to someone though. I
believe there's the PC-on-a-card board kicking around the office from
one of the racks, the other one arrived with a bare backplane though.
They're free to a good home; comms gear isn't really my thing so I just
grabbed what was on the front labels - if any of the above sounds like
it could be useful to anyone I can always get more details as to exact
model numbers, what interfaces they have etc.
cheers
Jules
I am looking for 1 x part number 21-17311-01 cpu1 processor.
Our company is based in the UK.
Can you supply this part.
Best Regards
Cara Keir
Internal Sales
On behalf of Nessco Limited
Tel no: +44 1224 414143 Fax no: +44 1224 414192
Email:? cara.keir(a)nessco.co.uk
"The information contained in this message is sent in the strictest
confidence and may contain confidential or privileged information intended
for use of the addressee only.? If you have received this message in error
please delete it and any attachments and notify the sender immediately."
>Correction. I just learned that the flash point for 3-in-1 oil is 305
>degrees Fahrenheit. If I recall correctly, the Laserjet II's fuser is
>heated to 320 degrees F., so... still, not good.
put a little on a non flammable surface (like concrete), just a small
amount (comparable to what you put on the fuser)... touch a match to it.
If it doesn't ignite, you should be good to go on the fuser. Matches burn
hotter than 305 degrees. (do NOT do this test on a flammable surface or
with anything like a cup or cap of oil... given enough fuel/O2 mix, the
match will ignite the oil, and not in a very nice manner)
You may not have sufficient fuel to start a chemical reaction. Unless you
soaked the part in oil.
However, regardless of the flammability... its going to smoke, and that's
neither going to smell good, or be very healthy. So you'll probably want
to break it down, clean it, and replace it with a high temp grease anyway.
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
Hi
If it is a TV, the front is a protective glass and is not
under the tension of the vacuum. Most CRT's for scopes
expect there to be a plastic ridicule in front to protect,
so doesn't have any protective glass. The glass used on TV's
is ordinary plate glass and not tempered so it can handle
scratches without failing. Even a crack will not propagate
to the inside glass.
Dwight
>From: ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk
>>
>>
>>
>> Although the CRT in question is off-topic, the question is fairly topical:
>>
>> Is there any way to remove physical blemishes from the face of a CRT?
>> I've got a very nice 19" SVGA display that has some scratches on the face.
>> They are somewhat invisible unless you happen to be looking at something
>> at that part of the screen (lower third, right of center).
>>
>> Can this be buffed out or ... ?
>>
>> I hope there's a way to do this because I've been wanting to fix the face
>> of my 35" ProScan TV that has the same problem. You barely notice it, but
>> it is slightly distracting when you do.
>
>If the scratches are minor, so the CRT faceplate is not significantly
>weakend, then there are kits available for polishing car windscreenss
>(Oh, OK, auto windshields, right?). They'd probably help.
>
>If the CRT faceplate is weakened, then replace that CRT before it implodes!
>
>-tony
>
Quick question,
Can one install the SRM OS on a 300 series workstation?
I think I have a Model 360 (it has a 68030 processor,
68882 co-processor, scsi, lan etc).
Anyway, I have a 9144 tape drive and when I try to boot
the SRM tape, it lists it as booting and then blanks
the screen and resets. When I use a hard drive with
Basic 5.13, it boots fine.
Am I doing something wrong or does SRM only work with
the HP9826 and similar?
Thanks
Max
Hi Bill
This is a good point. Any polishing will stand out unless
the entire surface is polished. One might even try getting
a little varithane mat finish on a rag and wipe a little
over the scratch. Then wipe around it with some thinner
to remove any excess. It doesn't have exactly the same index of
refraction but it would help hide the scratch.
Dwight
>From: "William Maddox" <wmaddox(a)pacbell.net>
>
>Does the monitor have an anti-glare coating? The various suggestions
>posted for buffing out the damage would seem applicable to an ordinary
>glass screen such as I have seen on older/cheaper small-screen monitors,
>but most newer and large screen monitors have some kind of anti-glare
>coating. The best ones use a metallic coating that is easily damaged and
>looks bad when it is scratched off. You should conside whether removing
>it will make matters worse. Some cheaper anti-glare treatments just put a
>matte finish on the glass, and might not suffer quite so badly.
>
>--Bill
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Vintage Computer Festival" <vcf(a)siconic.com>
>To: "Classic Computers Mailing List" <cctalk(a)classiccmp.org>
>Sent: Monday, April 12, 2004 6:43 PM
>Subject: Removing physical blemishes from CRT?
>
>
>>
>> Although the CRT in question is off-topic, the question is fairly topical:
>>
>> Is there any way to remove physical blemishes from the face of a CRT?
>> I've got a very nice 19" SVGA display that has some scratches on the face.
>> They are somewhat invisible unless you happen to be looking at something
>> at that part of the screen (lower third, right of center).
>>
>> Can this be buffed out or ... ?
>>
>> I hope there's a way to do this because I've been wanting to fix the face
>> of my 35" ProScan TV that has the same problem. You barely notice it, but
>> it is slightly distracting when you do.
>>
>> --
>>
>> Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer
Festival
>>
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